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*Official* Optoma HD20 Thread - Page 9

post #241 of 3969
I can't believe what $999 gets nowadays. This thing throws up one beautiful picture. My HD70 is still running strong with low hours, so I was a little hesitant on buying the HD20. I'm so glad I decided to pull the trigger. I'm using a 133" high power screen with the new Optoma and the image is very sharp. I guess you don't know how much better 1080p is until you actually have it up on your screen. I hope this helps any fence sitters.
post #242 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by FITFlyer98 View Post

I would be careful "HOT SWAPPING" HDMI cables are not designed to do that and can damage your equipment.

Actually, that doesnt sound correct at all. I did this on my old pt-ae2000u and it never froze. On top of that, how do you think Receivers with HDMI work, it hot swaps the connections inside of the unit, so you can switch between sources. Same goes for an HDMI switcher, and you dont hear people saying not to buy them because you will damage your tv or projector.
post #243 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony Cler View Post

Because it's a little more expensive

Stupid question wasn't it. I would buy the Infocus X10 but it doesn't have enough zoom for my setup unfortunately.
post #244 of 3969
Guys,
I owned Infocus X1 a while back and had an issue of whining color wheel which eventually broke the projector. Then, I bought Epson which was LCD. The picture was brilliant and very reliable. Now I am thinking of Optoma HD20 but I am concerned about DLP technology which uses the color wheel technology. Reliablity is a major issue for me. Can someone tell me if DLP is prone to color wheel issues or was it only X1 spoecific issue? Is LCD more reliable than DLP? PLEASE advice...
Thanks
post #245 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by hb7779 View Post

Guys,
I owned Infocus X1 a while back and had an issue of whining color wheel which eventually broke the projector. Then, I bought Epson which was LCD. The picture was brilliant and very reliable. Now I am thinking of Optoma HD20 but I am concerned about DLP technology which uses the color wheel technology. Reliablity is a major issue for me. Can someone tell me if DLP is prone to color wheel issues or was it only X1 spoecific issue? Is LCD more reliable than DLP? PLEASE advice...
Thanks

Anything you buy has the potential to break, it does not matter if it is lcd or dlp. Anyways i had a optoma h31 projector and it worked perfect, no problems ever, i have the optoma hd200x and i hope it is reliable as my old projector but like i said before and anything has the potential to break. Optoma is big company they make a good product and are reliable.
post #246 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdog_2005 View Post

Anything you buy has the potential to break, it does not matter if it is lcd or dlp. Anyways i had a optoma h31 projector and it worked perfect, no problems ever, i have the optoma hd200x and i hope it is reliable as my old projector but like i said before and anything has the potential to break. Optoma is big company they make a good product and are reliable.

I understand your point but my question is more about the types of technology. Since color wheel is a moving part does it make is little less reliable than LCD panel.
post #247 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by mat82284 View Post

Actually, that doesnt sound correct at all. I did this on my old pt-ae2000u and it never froze. On top of that, how do you think Receivers with HDMI work, it hot swaps the connections inside of the unit, so you can switch between sources. Same goes for an HDMI switcher, and you dont hear people saying not to buy them because you will damage your tv or projector.

I am not saying that is the exact reason the projector is freezing, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was. I wouldn't be so confident about your hot swapping theory, but it is not my equipment so do as you wish. Pulling a plug out of a device that is running versus using a switch designed to swap between components is like comparing apples to oranges. Not trying to start a battle with you, like I said do what you like. However if it was my equipment I would avoid it.
post #248 of 3969
I would also avoid it. Every component's manual I've ever owned said to turn power off before making any cable hookups.
post #249 of 3969
Okay these are my settings, i took them last night on my camera on my blackberry



post #250 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdog_2005 View Post

Okay these are my settings, i took them last night on my camera on my blackberry





You have the hd200x right? Those menus are the exact same ones as the HD20 so I think it's safe to say these PJ's are the same.

Also, what is your RGB settings and your gamma curve at?


Last night I played around with my settings and found that I got a cleaner sharper image with darker blacks when my contrast was at 41 and my brightness at 28.....

Are these settings calibrated through DVE on BD?
post #251 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by lmd290 View Post

I can't believe what $999 gets nowadays. This thing throws up one beautiful picture. My HD70 is still running strong with low hours, so I was a little hesitant on buying the HD20. I'm so glad I decided to pull the trigger. I'm using a 133" high power screen with the new Optoma and the image is very sharp. I guess you don't know how much better 1080p is until you actually have it up on your screen. I hope this helps any fence sitters.

Thanks, this was the exact post I was looking for. I recently went from a 92" screen to 106" with my HD70 and we start to see the pixels if we are any closer than our normal seating position.

When I bought the HD70 3 years ago, I predicted that I'd be able to get a 1080p projector for $999 in 3 years, but I hoped it would be an led light source... I guess that's still a way off.
post #252 of 3969
I am just itching to buy this, making myself wait to see more reviews. If you have it, please give us your impressions. Thanks!
post #253 of 3969
Okay just received the HD20....Does anyone notice the fan speed gets louder than quieter in a noticable way. Also the guy who posted the "I Love you man" pics. Did the movie brightness and color internittently change (including the fan speed) during the first ten minutes of the movie? I had auto iris engaged at both reference and cinema default settings. im thinking I have a bad unit...
post #254 of 3969
There is no auto iris, it is the bulb AI...it needs to be disengaged. Not good for movie watching.
post #255 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr2Spyder View Post

Okay just received the HD20....Does anyone notice the fan speed gets louder than quieter in a noticable way. Also the guy who posted the "I Love you man" pics. Did the movie brightness and color internittently change (including the fan speed) during the first ten minutes of the movie? I had auto iris engaged at both reference and cinema default settings. im thinking I have a bad unit...

I don't have the HD20 but from the manual AI is not Auto Iris it actually changes the lamp brightness according to video brightness attempting to maximize contrast.

From what I understand what you are seeing is normal and probable not very useful in watching a movie.

Rew
post #256 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrickTop View Post

There is no auto iris, it is the bulb AI...it needs to be disengaged. Not good for movie watching.

What is it good for?
post #257 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by dysfunction26 View Post

What is it good for?

I called it a gimmick but as someone pointed out it probable works well for viewing pictures.

Rew
post #258 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr2Spyder View Post

Okay just received the HD20....Does anyone notice the fan speed gets louder than quieter in a noticable way. Also the guy who posted the "I Love you man" pics. Did the movie brightness and color internittently change (including the fan speed) during the first ten minutes of the movie? I had auto iris engaged at both reference and cinema default settings. im thinking I have a bad unit...

Do not use AI, that is what is causing the brightness and the fan to change, its good for photo viewing only.

I hope your impressions change after playing around with it a little more, it really is a good machine for its price.
post #259 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by hb7779 View Post

I understand your point but my question is more about the types of technology. Since color wheel is a moving part does it make is little less reliable than LCD panel.

The moving color wheels in most DLP projectors do not fail so very much - you were just unlucky. LCD projectors - I love 'em - have their own problems with the panels darkening and failing over time due to their vulnerability to heat. "Inorganic" LCD panels should not fail anytime soon, but projectors with those generally cost more. An inexpensive DLP will likely last longer than an inexpensive LCD projector, but both should last long enough & be well worth their cost.

(Forgive me if I have contributed to a partial hijack.)
post #260 of 3969
I have an HD20 order (upgrading from Mitsu HD1000u), but for those who have already received theirs, how does the brightness uniformity look to you?
I noticed that the Optoma specs. are quoted as 70% brightness uniformity....which sounds a bit low. Hoping that this is not an issue, please tell me that I am obsessing too much and that there is no obvious hotspotting or dimming in the corners of the image, etc.
post #261 of 3969
Good news, i just got a email from some one who reviews at," projector reviews"
Anyways they should have the projector on monday and they should be starting the review next week, there currently working on the vivitek 1080p right now.
post #262 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by tustinfarm View Post

I have an HD20 order (upgrading from Mitsu HD1000u), but for those who have already received theirs, how does the brightness uniformity look to you?
I noticed that the Optoma specs. are quoted as 70% brightness uniformity....which sounds a bit low. Hoping that this is not an issue, please tell me that I am obsessing too much and that there is no obvious hotspotting or dimming in the corners of the image, etc.

I have no hot spotting or dimming on the edges on a 100" screen, i woudn't worry about it
post #263 of 3969
So I guess Auto Ai is a marketing gimmick?...Ill turn it off and play around with it some more...My Samsung 710 kicks the butt off this machine and has much deeper black levels and better color. Black levels are the worst of of any projector ive owned....
post #264 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdog_2005 View Post

I have no hot spotting or dimming on the edges on a 100" screen, i woudn't worry about it

Tdog - I noticed you're in Canada. Where did you get your HD20 from?
post #265 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimvinny View Post

Tdog - I noticed you're in Canada. Where did you get your HD20 from?

I have the 200x, the hd20 is not available in Canada.
post #266 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by tustinfarm View Post

I have an HD20 order (upgrading from Mitsu HD1000u), but for those who have already received theirs, how does the brightness uniformity look to you?
I noticed that the Optoma specs. are quoted as 70% brightness uniformity....which sounds a bit low. Hoping that this is not an issue, please tell me that I am obsessing too much and that there is no obvious hotspotting or dimming in the corners of the image, etc.

No hotspotting here either.
post #267 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr2Spyder View Post

So I guess Auto Ai is a marketing gimmick?...Ill turn it off and play around with it some more...My Samsung 710 kicks the butt off this machine and has much deeper black levels and better color. Black levels are the worst of of any projector ive owned....

So, a $3500 projector is better than a $999 projector? :P Looking at the stats, I would guess the Samsung has better black levels because it is a darker projector. Ansi contrast is the same between the two, but with less lumens, you are going to get darker blacks.
post #268 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr2Spyder View Post

So I guess Auto Ai is a marketing gimmick?...Ill turn it off and play around with it some more...My Samsung 710 kicks the butt off this machine and has much deeper black levels and better color. Black levels are the worst of of any projector ive owned....

Should also probably learn how to use it first before you condem it.
post #269 of 3969
Blacks should be fine on this projector with it using a RGB/RGB wheel. Just break it in a little soon the bulb will settle down and the blacks will go deeper. I'll probably get a review machine next week and I'll let you know how bright it is OTB. Which again will lower down and blacks will get way better. Use that puppy things get better.
post #270 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by wal-dog View Post

Should also probably learn how to use it first before you condem it.

Okay thanks for the helpful advice...I had an Optoma dv10 with the same auto ai function and dont recall the same problems (noise and flashing colors/brightness) as this machine. I turned off the auto ai and the problems went away however blcak levels suck and colors are off. Was getting ready to return it and found out that PP charges a 15% restocking fee for 4 -10 hours on the bulb and guess what I have 4 hours like an idiot. Gonna call and see if they cut me a break and let me upgrade or swap it out for another projector. BTW i PAID 897 for my Samsung 710 and the my complaint is reliability (I have two and one has been sent in for repairs twice while the other one has been flawless) and bulb dimming after 400 hours. Seriously resolution is not everything. The ax-200 is a better overall projector for the same money. Better color, black level and LUMENS...
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