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*Official* Optoma HD20 Thread - Page 123

post #3661 of 3967
Quote:
Originally Posted by damag0r View Post

Just got this thing today, and I'm impressed how it looks even just on a white wall.
The only problem I'm having is windows won't let me set the display to 48hz refresh and I wanted to play with this on 24p content. It lets me set to 24hz but that looks bad to me... so hmm.
I'm also noticing some sample-and-hold motion effect on this thing, but it's strangely not bothering as much as it does on my LCD flatscreen.
I do occasionally see the "rainbows", but only when I move my eyes or head quickly like when I'm moving my head from my computer monitor to the projected image on my wall above it. I'll certainly know not to buy a projector with a 3x colorwheel, because I know I'd definitely be bothered by rainbows then... but this 4x wheel is good enough. Although if I were to upgrade I'd look for one with a 6x colorwheel.
The ability to adjust the screensize to what I wish for the occasion is also nice.
Pretty sure I'll be keeping this. Can't wait until my grey 0.8 gain screen material comes.

Odd, the HD20 does not have any sampling abilities. Can you describe the effect you are seeing? DLP also can't physcially have the LCD pixel response/refresh issue. I would check your source. Do you have a BD player to try a BD. I have seen odd motion artifacts with sources like TV, Direct TV, Cables, etc.
post #3662 of 3967
Quote:
Originally Posted by optomahd20 View Post


You have to provide an active input in order to be able to navigate to the Image and Display sub menu.


If you can't provide an active input yet, you can roughly set it up using System > Test Pattern > Grid and/or White.


GAWD! Thank you! This was driving me crazy. I was trying to set up my keystone using the grid. I thought my unit had gone bad.

THANK YOU!
post #3663 of 3967
Quote:
Originally Posted by KimNeJoi View Post

which projector better in a big screen sizes 150-230 inches
hd20 , gt750e
i know the first is a 1080p and the other is 720p
but I'd inform about which could be better in big screen sizes
in my opinion the gt750e is must be better because it's short throw projection system and 3000 lumen
on the other hand , the hd20 is better in medium screen sizes 90-130 inches because it's a long throw system
and with a 1700 lumen
this is my opinion i hope it's been corrected by the Experts

The only real info you asked is which is better for 150-230. I personally think the HD20, because of the lower brightness and 1080p. If you want better dark levels and a sharper image at 150-230, the HD20 will be a much better image over the brighter lower res GT750e.

I run my HD20 at 125" with bulb on low brightness. And feel it would look even better at 150+ to drop the black levels a little more. I prefer low bulb for the better blacks and lower fan noise. On low the fan is pretty much silent.

If projector distance is an issue for your room; then the choice is made for you based on that.

There is a guy on here running his HD20 at 150" and he thinks it looks great. You will need more than 18 feet from the screen as you go over 150" though. Which should not be an issue if you have a room big enough for a 150" screen with decent space around the screen and away from the walls and ceiling.

Have you already checked the offset distance as well? At 150" the offset is about 12" from the lens center to the edge of the image start. So you would need a high ceiling as well to avoid digital keystone.

Though I think 150-200 is likely the best range for the HD20, even though many people run it at much lower screen sizes. I ran my previous HD70 (720p) 1000 lumen PJ at 100" and it was perfect. If you want over 200" because you have a HUGE room with ultra high ceiling, I would suggest looking into other 1080p projectors that are over 2000 lumens. Though the HD33 may look great at 200-230" with 3D 1080p support.

Is the screen size based on a huge room you plan to fill?

Either way, between the 2 PJ's you listed, I think you will end up very disappointed at the loss of sharpness of 720p at 150"+, especially depending on your viewing distance ratio, which is really the main factor for resolution away.

Can you give more details on things such as room size, ceiling height, viewing distance for the front row, and possible lighting conditions and content you plan to view? Thanks.
post #3664 of 3967
well took it apart cleaned the color wheel blew it out, and no more flickering or weird image distortion, SWEET
post #3665 of 3967
I got my theater up and running OK but i have a couple of questions hoping to get some answers/pointers for:

1. Everytime i play the movie i did not get the full screen regardless of the movie types (widescreen or not). The picture only fill 50%-60% of the my screen (my screen is about 125") The top portion and the bottom are empty. I am missing something on the setting of the projector?

2. As far as quipments are concern here is my setup as a poorman theater. What is wrong with my setup?
  1. Optoma HD20
  2. Used set of Mirage OM-5 loud speakers (missing the power cable and don't know where to get the replacement)
  3. Brand new definitive technology procinema 60 5.1 (speakers system with subwoofer).
  4. Marantz SR5006 receiver
  5. Sony Bluray player

Thank you in advance.
Edited by dvnandover - 11/27/12 at 8:02am
post #3666 of 3967
1. Is your projector far enough away from the screen? For an image that size the projector needs to be set about 13-14 feet away from it. The zoom adjustment wheel on the lens will only do so much, you need to be the correct distance from the screen.

2-2.
Quote:
United States Customers
1-866-428-2122
support@miragespeakers.com

I suggest adding this device to your poor man's equipment: WD Live TV media player.
Then you can watch Netflix or download movies to a flash drive to watch on your big screen. Usually costs around $60, but totally worth it. You can find a ton of refurbs on ebay.
post #3667 of 3967
Quote:
Originally Posted by dvnandover View Post

I got my theater up and running OK but i have a couple of questions hoping to get some answers/pointers for:
1. Everytime i play the movie i did not get the full screen regardless of the movie types (widescreen or not). The picture only fill 50%-60% of the my screen (my screen is about 125") The top portion and the bottom are empty. I am missing something on the setting of the projector?
...

On top of the other suggestions. Have you turn on the HD20 test patterns to see what exactly the HD20 is projecting regardless of your source? Have you already tried pressing the "Native" mode button on your remote (or set in the menu)?

If your screen is 16:9 at 125" diag, does your image extend fulling from side to side? If so, do the HD20 test patterns built into the projector to make sure the test pattern fills the screen. If it does, the it is likely your source content. Are you playing a 16:9 video? A 2.35:1 movie will have black "bars" on the top and bottom of a 16:9 screen.
post #3668 of 3967
I will try your suggestions nickles55 and xenon2000 when i get home later on today. But i know i used the HD20 test pattern and that is how i framed my screen. I am using 16:9 and the image full from side to side but not from top to bottom. I will take some screen shot to show later on.

Can WD Live TV media player be used as a replacement for set top box (STB) for Verizon FIOS service so i can tune to the channel i want?
Edited by dvnandover - 11/27/12 at 9:35am
post #3669 of 3967
Quote:
Originally Posted by dvnandover View Post

Can WD Live TV media player be used as a replacement for set top box (STB) for Verizon FIOS service so i can tune to the channel i want?

No, that is not what this device does. It is used to view files on a flash drive or to stream videos over your network using services such as Hulu Plus or NetFlix. I have a large collection of movies and TV shows on my PC, so this is how I view them on the big screen. With this I have no need for a STB. I just download any TV show that I wish to view to my PC, then put it on the flash drive to watch it on my HD20 via the Media Player device.

I should say I recommend this device to people with lots of video files on their PC, or those with Hulu or NetFlix accts and want to watch these on their big screen without spending a fortune doing it.
post #3670 of 3967
I'm kinda confused, I've narrowed my next projector to either the HD20 or HD23. I'm leaning toward the newer model but I've read many reviews indicating it may be too bright in a theater type room (which I have). If a projector is running too bright couldn't one simply dim the brightness level on it? Also don't most PJ's have an Eco mode? That should help too and I thought I saw that these Optoma's both do. Lastly, someone mentioned that because of the HD23's additional brightness that RBE would be worse, any thoughts on that?
post #3671 of 3967
Of course for those who have a PC already connected to their HD20, you wouldn't need the WD Live. I have my central "media PC" on the HD20 as my central storage which is then connected to the other systems via wired gigabit and wireless N, G, B.

I too do not have s STB or other TV service. I use Amazon Prime, Hulu free, and others for pre-downloaded or streamed content. Though my main content for the HD20 is Blu-ray and video games.
post #3672 of 3967
Quote:
Originally Posted by lpolarin View Post

I'm kinda confused, I've narrowed my next projector to either the HD20 or HD23. I'm leaning toward the newer model but I've read many reviews indicating it may be too bright in a theater type room (which I have). If a projector is running too bright couldn't one simply dim the brightness level on it? Also don't most PJ's have an Eco mode? That should help too and I thought I saw that these Optoma's both do. Lastly, someone mentioned that because of the HD23's additional brightness that RBE would be worse, any thoughts on that?

"Brightness level" is sadly a terrible term when used with Projectors. It has nothing to do with the bulb brightness. And with most projectors that do not have an iris, you only have 2 bulb brightness settings. And that is not controlled by "Brightness level". That really should be called "black level".

So it's true that even after calibration, the HD20 will have a lower "black" threshold on bulb low, vs the brighter HD23 on bulb low. Lowering the "Brightness level" will just make you lose shadow detail but not make it any "blacker" than the bulb brightness setting on low.

Several factors make RBE worse. Very high contrast and sharpness can make the effect amplified. How close you sit to the screen makes a huge difference as movements left and right create greater eye movement and source material tends to move those directions at greater speeds in general.

The effect is simply from a high contrast object no longer being in the same spot between the difference color images, so they don't blend as well with the POV effect of your eye.

While I can "pick out" the RBE on my previous HD70 and my current HD20 in dark scenes with high contrast bright objects that move left and right; overall I generally do not see it on my 125" screen with the HD20 bulb on the low setting.

Both use the same TI DarkChip 2 DMD, so black levels will be lighter at the same screen size, with the brighter bulb on the HD23.

Given that the HD23 is really just a revised HD20, I would put little focus on the MAR 2012 first ship date vs the HD20's AUG 2009 ship date. If you plan on having a screen size of 150" and smaller, and can find a good price on the HD20, I would go with that. Obviously the higher brightness will be offset as the image gets larger, which would make it more ideal for 150"+, though some have the HD20 with 150" here and say it's still bright.
post #3673 of 3967
Actually if I remember right they have a different color wheel design HD20 is RGBRGB and darkchip2, HD23 has a RGBCYM and is darkchip3, speed is 4x on HD20 and some say 3x for the HD23.

The lumen output is higher on the HD23 due to the colorwheel segment design.

Rew
post #3674 of 3967
Thanks for the thoughtful input guys I really appreciate it. My room is a dedicated theater in the basement with a bar "entertaining" area directly behind the seating area so on occaision I do like to put some lighting on when we have a group over (wall mounted sconce lights on a dimmer). I'm only projecting to a 92" DaLite pure white screen (no gain) so I guess now I may be leaning toward the HD20 as its seems to be solid performer with a good track record. In addition I can buy one locally from Sams club so if there are any issues I could easily return it if needed. Thanks again and please feel free to add any additional comments as I can use all the help I can get.
post #3675 of 3967
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rew452 View Post

Actually if I remember right they have a different color wheel design HD20 is RGBRGB and darkchip2, HD23 has a RGBCYM and is darkchip3, speed is 4x on HD20 and some say 3x for the HD23.
The lumen output is higher on the HD23 due to the colorwheel segment design.
Rew

Doh. I must be thinking of the 3D model HD33.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/projector_spec_6844.pdf

I see here it does confirm the HD23 is the Darkchip 3. It also states the bulb low is 1900 lumens and high is 2500 lumens. The Darkchip 3 might also help offset the higher brightness for the black levels. I am sure either projector would serve you well in a pitch black theater space. You could always get an ND2 or ND4 filter to cut more light if needed.
post #3676 of 3967
Just checking in on this awesome projectors thread.

Had mine since July 2010. I just crossed the 2000hr mark, this thing is flawless. Its a bit darker then it was originally (obviously) but its just fine especially when you bump it to bright mode. I had the HD70 before this one and I'm sure I will get the next generation projector once this one dies out or I find a pile of money somewhere.

Optoma = Win
post #3677 of 3967
I just read a review on the HD23 (Projector Pointer) which I'm currently considering and the reviewer mentioned that if my DVD library consisted of old black and white movies and/or science fiction fare that I should probably avoid the HD23 and DLP's in general because of the RBE on these type PJ's. Well, my DVD collection is made almost entirely of B&W movies and Science fiction fare! Anyone here concur with his statement regarding DLP's? Man this is really getting frustrating...
post #3678 of 3967
Quote:
Originally Posted by lpolarin View Post

I just read a review on the HD23 (Projector Pointer) which I'm currently considering and the reviewer mentioned that if my DVD library consisted of old black and white movies and/or science fiction fare that I should probably avoid the HD23 and DLP's in general because of the RBE on these type PJ's. Well, my DVD collection is made almost entirely of B&W movies and Science fiction fare! Anyone here concur with his statement regarding DLP's? Man this is really getting frustrating...

This lines up exactly with what I said about high contrast = more RBE. B&W is high contrast and SciFi has a lot of dark scenes with bright objects, hence high contrast. While I don't watch a ton of B&W though ,I do watch a few high contrast B&W like Citizen Kane, and do not really see any RBE. Though left and right movements in dark scenes are what really cause the RBE the most. So SciFi will have the most.

As I watch a lot of SciFi and dark scenes, I can say that the HD20 looks great and I still prefer DLP over LCD. Though LCD looks great too. But I have found that LCD panels tend to discolor. And I don't like the regular filter cleanings or sometimes dead or stuck pixels. I also game on my HD20 and prefer the lower input lag and higher pixel refresh rate of DLP over LCD.

I am not the only one that watches a lot of SciFi on DLP projectors. And I think avoiding DLP without trying it is a bad idea. So far I am the only one that can pick out the RBE on my setup. And that is only with very specific content and only if I look for it. No on else in my family or friends has been able to pick it out even when I tell them what to look for and how to find it.

If you are looking for a 1080p PJ under $1000, I would seriously consider a DLP projector. And according to Projector Central, there are currently NO LCD 1080p PJs with an MSRP under $1300. Not to say you can't find one for under $1000. But there will certainly be more DLPs under $1000 at 1080p. I bought my HD20 for $850 from Costco back in Q1 2010.

Now DLP 2x wheel speed Conference room / business class projectors are a completely different experience and have terrible RBE and are terrible for cinema use.

You will find tons of people on either side of the LCD vs DLP (vs other) technology. And I think as far a picture quality goes, all of them can look great depending on cost. Many digital commercial theaters use 3-chip DLP 4K Projectors. And I hope some day to have a 4K DLP projector whether it's 1 chip or 3 chip or even LCD.

I still feel that currently DLP is the number 1 low cost leader on the price/performance ratio, followed closely by 3x LCD. In the $1500 and lower pricing of both technologies.

I am pretty sensitive to RBE which makes 2x wheel speeds absolutely impossible to watch moving video on for me. But I find it a pleasure to watch SciFi and play high speed games on my HD20 and previous HD70 DLP projectors.

If you are really worried about RBE and have not owned a 4x wheel speed DLP projector before, then buy from a place that will be easy to do a return. I bought mine from Costco as I said for that reason, but here I am still owning it after almost 3 years.
Edited by xenon2000 - 11/28/12 at 2:58pm
post #3679 of 3967
Xenon thank you for your reply, I've had 2 PJ's so far and both have been LCD's and I'm anxious to try a different technology. I think what I'll do is try the HD23 first as I can buy one locally at Best Buy and see if I can get that to work for me. If it doesn't I've got the 30 day return policy. If it's just too bright I'll likely return it and go with the HD20 which I can also buy locally at Sams Club. Thanks again guys for your input...
post #3680 of 3967
Help! Weird Problem with my HD20!

Had the projector for over a year (just out of warranty...) and loved it. But recently when I turn it on the image turns into a very dark greenish color and its just impossible to see anything. At first I thought the lamp went dead so I replaced lamp with a new one but still the problem persists.

Has anybody experienced this problem before? Does anybody know what the issue is? Could it be that my color wheel is not turning anymore?
post #3681 of 3967
Color wheel could be stuck. Serious problem, probably needs service.
post #3682 of 3967
Quote:
Originally Posted by principleo View Post

Help! Weird Problem with my HD20!
Had the projector for over a year (just out of warranty...) and loved it. But recently when I turn it on the image turns into a very dark greenish color and its just impossible to see anything. At first I thought the lamp went dead so I replaced lamp with a new one but still the problem persists.
Has anybody experienced this problem before? Does anybody know what the issue is? Could it be that my color wheel is not turning anymore?

Is it green and sparkly? Did you encounter the problem when switching from Blu-Ray to your game console? Are you sure it's not an HDCP handshake problem?
post #3683 of 3967
1st of all:
I am very happy to have found this forum, and here is why...

I encountered the same/similar problem that was described by several other Optoma HD20 owners.
device is 2 years old, 2750 lamp hours (original lamp, I ordered the spare lamp a year too early! so, i am happy about the hours)
a week ago, after switching on the device it worked good as usual at first. after some minutes the picture seemed to lose some red (skin, orange and redish was blurry) and it did not change back to good. switching the device off and on only resulted in another short-time satisfaction.

2nd, and here comes the thanks to the members of this forum...
the description about cleaning the sensor attached to the color-wheel assembly seemed to be the solution to get back full satisfaction in this case.

so, again, for the next one with a similar problem:
try cleaning the sensor on the color-wheel assembly.
after gently opening the device, I dismounted the assembly (2 screws plus 1 to take off the platine with the black square sensor on it)
I used a dry q-tip and some compressed air for the sensor, I also cleaned the color-wheel with a q-tip, just dip one end in a glass cleaner fluid and get on with it.
after reassembling and so far 6 hours of use, I am a happy man again.
took a photo of the assembly, though it should be obvious whenever you take the thing apart.
photo shows the color-wheel and the still a little dusty sensor (black rectangle unit) dismounted from the assembly.
please correct me if I gave wrong names to the parts or left something essential out of this description.

thanks guys!


Edited by cole phelps - 12/3/12 at 12:24pm
post #3684 of 3967
I finally got my new HD23 installed...A pretty nice picture and not too bright for my Theater Room, MNF looks pretty good so I start adjusting the picture and things are looking pretty good. I switch over to HBO and Underworld is on! Awesome, Ill get to see my main type of film, dark, horror/sci-fi...Whoa...what the heck is this? Every time I blink I see rainbows, now I'm seeing them everywhere! Damn, I've read about this RBE thing but I've never seen a DLP projector before. What a bummer, I must be hyper sensitive because I can't even watch. I go get my adult kids to see if maybe it's just me, my son sees nothing while my daughter sees exactly what I see. Damn this is dissapointing, looks like I'm gonna have to try the new Panny AR 100, I guess its LCD for me...
post #3685 of 3967
Quote:
Originally Posted by lpolarin View Post

I finally got my new HD23 installed...A pretty nice picture and not too bright for my Theater Room, MNF looks pretty good so I start adjusting the picture and things are looking pretty good. I switch over to HBO and Underworld is on! Awesome, Ill get to see my main type of film, dark, horror/sci-fi...Whoa...what the heck is this? Every time I blink I see rainbows, now I'm seeing them everywhere! Damn, I've read about this RBE thing but I've never seen a DLP projector before. What a bummer, I must be hyper sensitive because I can't even watch. I go get my adult kids to see if maybe it's just me, my son sees nothing while my daughter sees exactly what I see. Damn this is dissapointing, looks like I'm gonna have to try the new Panny AR 100, I guess its LCD for me...

Out of curiosity, how far are you from the screen and what size screen? Being really close will cause the issue to be much worse. Also, what is your contrast and sharpness set to? Is bulb on low?

While I can certainly pick out RBE if I blink a lot or dart my eyes around, those are 2 things I don't tend to do while watching movies or playing games. Darting eyes is often due to heavy object movement and being too close to the screen.

Anyway, if you can't reduce the RBE enough to your liking, then I guess 1-chip DLP is just not going to work for you.

I do wonder if the RBE is worse on the HD23 as it isn't bad on my HD20 at 125" screen size with bulb on low. Good luck on your other purchase.
post #3686 of 3967
Xenon I have a 92" screen which I sit about 15-16 feet from, bulb was set to low and sharpness and contrast turned down. I was reasonably pleased with the picture but I will say it would have taken some time to get used to the "look" of DLP., I've only had LCD's previously and I suppose my eyes are accustomed to their look. My daughter was standing about 18 feet away and said it looked even worse from there which was surprising. The previous posts which we discuss darker sci-fi and such was actually spot on as I didn't notice any RBE at all while watching MNF. Anyway, I'm glad I purchased the unit locally at Best Buy as I'll be returning it today so I can get my Panny ordered, no harm done and lesson learned.
post #3687 of 3967
I believe I have a bad color wheel. Have had the HD20 a little over a year, recently changed the lamp and it has been working great. All of a sudden a loud bang happened and there is a loud 'whirring' noise coming from the projector. Picture is still on but completely out of focus. turn projector off and the cooling fan runs, but the loud 'whirring' noise goes away.

I've seen a number of posts on how to replace the color wheel, which is a great help. However i'm having a hard time finding a replacement part. The only places I've seen are what look to be some pretty sketchy Chinese websites.

Any advice?
post #3688 of 3967
Quote:
Originally Posted by lpolarin View Post

Xenon I have a 92" screen which I sit about 15-16 feet from, bulb was set to low and sharpness and contrast turned down. I was reasonably pleased with the picture but I will say it would have taken some time to get used to the "look" of DLP., I've only had LCD's previously and I suppose my eyes are accustomed to their look. My daughter was standing about 18 feet away and said it looked even worse from there which was surprising. The previous posts which we discuss darker sci-fi and such was actually spot on as I didn't notice any RBE at all while watching MNF. Anyway, I'm glad I purchased the unit locally at Best Buy as I'll be returning it today so I can get my Panny ordered, no harm done and lesson learned.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/panasonic_PT-AR100U_home_theater_projector_review.htm

I am sure you will love the Panasonic AR100U. For me and many others, cost was a huge factor in buying the Optoma HD20. Especially back in 2009 and 2010. One of my requirements was a $900 max budget. Though I told myself that I would go as high as $1,000 if I really liked something else. But I really needed to start under $900. And I was able to get the HD20 shortly after release for only $850 shipped from Costco in Q1 2010.

The AR100U MSRP is over $1,700 and the street price appears to be about $1,300. So maybe you can get it for $1,100-1,200. But seems unlikely for under $1,000. Of course I have no idea what your budget is, but I wanted to toss this out there for others that might be joining this stage of the thread looking for a good budget 1080p projector. And as of right now, I don't know of any LCD 1080p home cinema projector for under $1,000 new. If there is, I would love to have a link for reference as I love to stay on top of this stuff.

For those with a budget of $1,200+ there are a good amount of 1080p options to choose from. I can't wait for 4K projectors to become "cheap". $25,000 is too much for me. lol. Of course, by then I hope they have 4K 3D and lots of content.
post #3689 of 3967
Quote:
Originally Posted by ibgadabout View Post

I believe I have a bad color wheel. Have had the HD20 a little over a year, recently changed the lamp and it has been working great. All of a sudden a loud bang happened and there is a loud 'whirring' noise coming from the projector. Picture is still on but completely out of focus. turn projector off and the cooling fan runs, but the loud 'whirring' noise goes away.
I've seen a number of posts on how to replace the color wheel, which is a great help. However i'm having a hard time finding a replacement part. The only places I've seen are what look to be some pretty sketchy Chinese websites.
Any advice?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-8EG37GR01-HD20-Optoma-Projector-Color-Wheel-Brand-new-90-Days-Warranty-/190757097243?pt=US_TV_Boards_Parts_Components&hash=item2c6a024f1b

Not sure if this is the best price. But as you likely know, eBay is a trusted and transaction protected shopping experience. I see this seller ships the HD20 color wheel from California.

Have you tried contacting Optoma USA about the part? They are also in California.

http://optomausa.com/company/contact.aspx
post #3690 of 3967
Sorry for the lazy post, I'm sure I can find the answer if I google it... but anyway:

I have my Optoma projecting onto my blank wall. I would like to create an affordable "frame" around the picture displayed on the wall. I am thinking a 2" border (not much room for it being any bigger) made out of trim from a lumber store. Do I go slightly larger than the picture leaving a tiny gap, or do I try to get the edge as close as possible? Can I just paint the trim in a black matte paint, or do I need to cover it with some sort of black material to absorb the light? Also wondering where the edges meet, do I cut them on a 45 degree angle or just have the trim pieces butt up against the top/bottom pieces on the flat edge? I'm also thinking of painting inside the frame with the Bahr silverscreen paint as I've seen lots of posts saying it enhances the quality of the picture.

Any tips are welcome!

Terrible text example of the top of the frame meeting the left side with 45 degree angles cut on both trim edges:
|\=====
||
||
*This way the edges meet at two 45 angles to make a 90 degree side.
vs
======
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||
*This way the piece just butt up against each other.
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