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*Official* Optoma HD20 Thread - Page 130

post #3871 of 3969
I paid around $90 for the wheel off eBay. Actual replacement about an hour and then adjust color wheel speed through service menu. Really not too difficult.
Have you opened it up though? Unless you see broken or missing panels on the wheel, I kinda doubt that's it. When that wheel fails, it's very obvious in my experience.
post #3872 of 3969

I cant think of what else it would be because I have swapped and tested all over parts. Bulb and lens. Behind the lens there is another like colour wheel looking panel and it has smudges on it.. but dunno if that could be it. Im gonna open it again and have a good look at the colour wheel

post #3873 of 3969

Just checked the colour wheel it is fine.. One more thing I don't know if you can see but on the pic with the blue screen you will notice there is a little white light above the edge of the projector screen. So on the screen its black and dark and then above it outside where the projector should project its got a glimmer of white light spot.. Real weird...

post #3874 of 3969
Have you looked at the mirror that reflects from the lamp?
post #3875 of 3969
Yeah it seems to have a smudge or some kind of mark on it? This is the colourful panel behind the lens right? Can this be cleaned say with a cotton bud?
post #3876 of 3969
I've never had to clean it. That's the only other thing I can think of myself. Not by any stretch am I an expert, but that would be my next move if I see a smudge. The colorful panel though sounds like the color wheel. I ruled it out but if you're seeing a smudge, you have to be really gentle. They are separate glass pieces and could easily separate. I was talking about the mirror that the light reflects off after the color wheel.
post #3877 of 3969
As Tinman mentioned, it may be damage to the light tunnel. I have not dealt with that myself.

This is a link to a used HD20 lens block with light tunnel. Seems to be cheaper than just the light tunnel alone. Doesn't look fun to replace. Description claims to not have any dark spots.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Optoma-HD20-HD23-HD25-part-lens-block-w-focus-ring-and-light-tunnel-/251351297199?pt=US_Projector_Lamps_Components&hash=item3a85b46caf

As the heat was so extreme that it killed the 900 hr bulb, I can only imagine it damaged nearby parts. Though I do wonder about the color wheel myself as it is before the light tunnel. Though it is also spinning, so that may keep it cooler.

Does the darkened area(s) have any movement to them? If you display a single color image like the blue no-signal background or a white test image; do you see any movement like shaking, shimmering, waving? If it's completely still, then I don't see how it could be the color wheel.

And like the bulb-seller mentioned, make sure the cooling fan system is working.
post #3878 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamnperry View Post

I've never had to clean it. That's the only other thing I can think of myself. Not by any stretch am I an expert, but that would be my next move if I see a smudge. The colorful panel though sounds like the color wheel. I ruled it out but if you're seeing a smudge, you have to be really gentle. They are separate glass pieces and could easily separate. I was talking about the mirror that the light reflects off after the color wheel.

Good idea. if there was any soot it could have darkened a spot on the mirror possibly.
post #3879 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by xenon2000 View Post

As Tinman mentioned, it may be damage to the light tunnel. I have not dealt with that myself.

This is a link to a used HD20 lens block with light tunnel. Seems to be cheaper than just the light tunnel alone. Doesn't look fun to replace. Description claims to not have any dark spots.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Optoma-HD20-HD23-HD25-part-lens-block-w-focus-ring-and-light-tunnel-/251351297199?pt=US_Projector_Lamps_Components&hash=item3a85b46caf

As the heat was so extreme that it killed the 900 hr bulb, I can only imagine it damaged nearby parts. Though I do wonder about the color wheel myself as it is before the light tunnel. Though it is also spinning, so that may keep it cooler.

Does the darkened area(s) have any movement to them? If you display a single color image like the blue no-signal background or a white test image; do you see any movement like shaking, shimmering, waving? If it's completely still, then I don't see how it could be the color wheel.

And like the bulb-seller mentioned, make sure the cooling fan system is working.

No movement at all its completely still and just looks like a blur spot so I don't think it's the color wheel. I'm seeing the smudge not on the multi colour wheel but the colourful panel behind the lens when I pulled the lens apart to clean it out.
post #3880 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamnperry View Post

I've never had to clean it. That's the only other thing I can think of myself. Not by any stretch am I an expert, but that would be my next move if I see a smudge. The colorful panel though sounds like the color wheel. I ruled it out but if you're seeing a smudge, you have to be really gentle. They are separate glass pieces and could easily separate. I was talking about the mirror that the light reflects off after the color wheel.

Yeah can I give the mirror a clean with a cotton bud it has to be this as the colour w heel looks fine and there is no flicker or anything just this dark error that doesn't move or anything
post #3881 of 3969
Well I pulled apart my PJ again today and found the problem.

Here's what it looked like on the grid test screen:


Here's the lens assembly with the light tunnel cover removed:


And here's the bad bit:




The fix is obvious. Not so obvious to me would be why this happened. When it went it went very suddenly and quickly. Within 15 minutes I noticed it looking slightly shaded and progress to as seen in the first picture. The replacement bulb is an Osram bulb, the same brand that was OE in my unit and a very reputable brand of bulb.

It looks to me that the other poster right now has the same problem. I found just the part I need on eBay for $65, or that lens assembly posted a few posts ago for $77 w/ shipping and used. I'm tempted to buy the single new lens for a few bucks less rather than a used assembly that has extra spare parts. After all I've currently got a used condition lens... why would I want another that could be just like it or not far behind ;-)
Edited by jcforbes - 10/8/13 at 6:41pm
post #3882 of 3969
At least you found the issue. Looks like heat damage to me if that isn't glass. If that is glass, then I have no idea what that is. Any brand of bulb can have or develop defects. But it could also be from insufficient cooling. Make sure the fan works well after it's all back together... if you can even find just that lens.
post #3883 of 3969
What is that piece all burnt out?
post #3884 of 3969
The burnt piece is a plastic magnifying lens that sits last in the path of light before the main lens.

Xenon do note that I provided a link in my post to the part, easy find a the seller has a supply of them. I ordered one last night and will have it in time to watch The Walking Dead this weekend ;-).

I did check the fans when the issue first started and both appear to run fine. This lens is inside of the sealed metal lens housing and would get no cooling by the fans. I'll let a better picture of the assembly and there this part fits when I install the new one; at the moment I've got the lens assembly sealed up in a ziplock to minimize dust intrusion and don't want to take it out until assembly time.
post #3885 of 3969
Ok so after editted this 1 million times i finally figured out what has happened! I got the same problem as jcforbes, a burnt out optical lens. Mine is no where near as bad as yours though it just has a crack and a burn mark through the middle of it. Im assuming this is because my fan is old and is not cooling my bulb very well and it has caused it to burn from the mirror onto the lens and booyah. That and my lamp only cost $150 so its obviously cheap **** that has screwed my projector frown.gif. Cant believe i missed this it was right in front of my eyes all this time, i was just looking in the wrong place.

So im about to go overseas but wanna get my GTAV fix on before i go, having said that my optical lens has a massive crack and burn mark through it the projection on my screen is still very visible and useable (for the moment). Whats the chances of being able to put the projector in high alititude mode have that fan running full speed in an attempt to cool down the bulb a bit and stop further burning and actually use it for another 50 or so hours? Or am i putting myself in danger or causing further issues with the projector? Then when i get back look at getting a new lens, fan and fixing the thing?

What you guys think?
Edited by Adrianpan - 10/9/13 at 9:30am
post #3886 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcforbes View Post

The burnt piece is a plastic magnifying lens that sits last in the path of light before the main lens.

Xenon do note that I provided a link in my post to the part, easy find a the seller has a supply of them. I ordered one last night and will have it in time to watch The Walking Dead this weekend ;-).

I did check the fans when the issue first started and both appear to run fine. This lens is inside of the sealed metal lens housing and would get no cooling by the fans. I'll let a better picture of the assembly and there this part fits when I install the new one; at the moment I've got the lens assembly sealed up in a ziplock to minimize dust intrusion and don't want to take it out until assembly time.

Sorry, I completely missed that second paragraph in the other post. Man, sure seems like a rip off at $65 for a plastic lens. An issue that obviously wouldn't have happened if it was glass. But still a cheap fix to keep using the projector. As it can't really get cooled by air flow, it makes me wonder if a non-Optoma sourced bulb has a higher UV or IR spectrum giving it more radiated heat output. Which then caused the heat intensity of the light path to be more than the lens could withstand. Or possibly just some dust build up that then allowed more heat to be absorbed in that spot. Just trying to think of ideas to help prevent it from happening again. Seems that if the fan/cooling is not the issue, then it may be the bulb, if it is different. Did you replace the bulb? And was it an OEM bulb including the housing, from Optoma or an Optoma reseller? The whole package is the bulb, reflector, and glass filter plate in a single housing. I wonder if that glass filter plate is responsible for cutting down IR thermal radiation (heat). If you replaced the bulb, maybe this plate was just glass and not an IR cut filter? Just some ideas.
post #3887 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adrianpan View Post

Ok so after editted this 1 million times i finally figured out what has happened! I got the same problem as jcforbes, a burnt out optical lens. Mine is no where near as bad as yours though it just has a crack and a burn mark through the middle of it. Im assuming this is because my fan is old and is not cooling my bulb very well and it has caused it to burn from the mirror onto the lens and booyah. That and my lamp only cost $150 so its obviously cheap **** that has screwed my projector frown.gif. Cant believe i missed this it was right in front of my eyes all this time, i was just looking in the wrong place.

So im about to go overseas but wanna get my GTAV fix on before i go, having said that my optical lens has a massive crack and burn mark through it the projection on my screen is still very visible and useable (for the moment). Whats the chances of being able to put the projector in high alititude mode have that fan running full speed in an attempt to cool down the bulb a bit and stop further burning and actually use it for another 50 or so hours? Or am i putting myself in danger or causing further issues with the projector? Then when i get back look at getting a new lens, fan and fixing the thing?

What you guys think?

I personally would find a different display to use for your GTA V playing if you can't fix the HD20 before you have to leave. I guess it's possible that nothing more will happen. Or that the spot will only get worse, which doesn't matter if the damage stays on the lens that will get replaced. Maybe if you keep the HD20 "on" time to 1 hour at a time and then let it cool, maybe that would reduce further damage. I really have no idea. Also, if this damage was caused by a bulb replacement, as I mentioned in my post to JCforbes, then the hotter bulb could be likely to keep causing damage. Again, I personally wouldn't risk it and you already have it apart. I would either fix it now. Or if you literally are leaving so soon that you don't have time to order the parts and fix it; then using a different display might make more sense. Again, just some ideas.
post #3888 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by xenon2000 View Post



I personally would find a different display to use for your GTA V playing if you can't fix the HD20 before you have to leave. I guess it's possible that nothing more will happen. Or that the spot will only get worse, which doesn't matter if the damage stays on the lens that will get replaced. Maybe if you keep the HD20 "on" time to 1 hour at a time and then let it cool, maybe that would reduce further damage. I really have no idea. Also, if this damage was caused by a bulb replacement, as I mentioned in my post to JCforbes, then the hotter bulb could be likely to keep causing damage. Again, I personally wouldn't risk it and you already have it apart. I would either fix it now. Or if you literally are leaving so soon that you don't have time to order the parts and fix it; then using a different display might make more sense. Again, just some ideas.

 



Yeah well its either the bulb or a bad cooling system in the projector. I just replaced this one on warranty and only has 20 hours on it but the one i bought previous to this had 900 hours and was completely melted.. When i went back to the place i bought it he warned me there was a problem with my cooling so i gave all the filters and fans a good clean out. However i think my fan is just dieing as it dosent do much on the normal setting but on high alititude it obviously gives some good power to the fan to do some proper work. I read your post about the bulbs been a little hotter than the original ones but i dont think this is the case for me as the 1st bulb i had issues with was melted before i replaced it.

Im putting my money on it been the fan because (assumed?) heating problems in a month with 2 different bulbs tells me its not a dodgy or cheap bulb now that i think of it. It looks like you can replace the fan as well. Im from Aus so by the time i get the lens shipped here ill be on the other side of the world so thats why im holding off fixing it now. My montior dosent allow input from the Xbox which is why ive been using the projector so i might just keep it on high altitude setting and not run it for long periods of time and just keep an eye on it and see if it changes or i smell any more burning. To be honest if the projector needs a new lens and a new fan and replace everything myself it may be better to buy a newer model or something as it did give me 3 years of solid service.

Anyway ill do what i said and if things change or i can help anyone else out ill keep ya all posted. Thanks for the great info Xenon and JCForbes.. Legends!
post #3889 of 3969
Ha! Look at that! Same exact problem mine had.
post #3890 of 3969
Im conviced its got to do with the fan dieing. After using it for a long time it seems that the fan dosent do anything at all, even now on high alititude setting its not that strong but hopefully strong enough to last a little longer in my case.
post #3891 of 3969
Update: I'm all fixed up. I got my new lens Friday and installed Friday night. When I got the PJ running again I checked and, just for record keeping sake, I had 139 hours on the new bulb when the lens melted and currently I'm at 175. The install went smoothly, though I was a little disappointing to see a few very tiny imperfections on the new lens. I cleaned it up with some lens tissue as well as I could. I can't see anything on the screen so I guess it's ok.

Here's some pictures:
90% of this was dust or otherwise stuff that fixed after cleaning. The thin scratch seen did not come off.



Lens assembly reinstalled in PJ body:

Almost back together:

Quote:
Sorry, I completely missed that second paragraph in the other post. Man, sure seems like a rip off at $65 for a plastic lens. An issue that obviously wouldn't have happened if it was glass. But still a cheap fix to keep using the projector. As it can't really get cooled by air flow, it makes me wonder if a non-Optoma sourced bulb has a higher UV or IR spectrum giving it more radiated heat output. Which then caused the heat intensity of the light path to be more than the lens could withstand. Or possibly just some dust build up that then allowed more heat to be absorbed in that spot. Just trying to think of ideas to help prevent it from happening again. Seems that if the fan/cooling is not the issue, then it may be the bulb, if it is different. Did you replace the bulb? And was it an OEM bulb including the housing, from Optoma or an Optoma reseller? The whole package is the bulb, reflector, and glass filter plate in a single housing. I wonder if that glass filter plate is responsible for cutting down IR thermal radiation (heat). If you replaced the bulb, maybe this plate was just glass and not an IR cut filter? Just some ideas.

Here's a link to the bulb I had purchased: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Q0WN48/ . As you can see it is complete with housing. Regrettably I tossed my old bulb so I can't provide photo comparison, but the two were identical in construction. The new bulb itself is the same Osram bulb down to the part number as the OE bulb. I'm 100% convinced that the bulb I bought is the same as one through Optoma and just cheaper due to removing a large corporate middle man. I was skeptical of it's legitimacy and made sure to check it out in detail before installing.



I'm thinking that the lens that melted was just an age related thing with maybe a minor defect and/or dust or such that focused some heat. I'll keep this thread updated if I have a repeat failure.

In case anybody wants to peek inside one of these here is the link to the rest of the pictures I took: http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/projectorissue
post #3892 of 3969
congrats on getting it "done". good job posting all the pictures for all of us to.
thanks.
post #3893 of 3969
Yes, awesome post. Thanks for all the info and photos. And glad to hear you got it all fixed up and running again.
post #3894 of 3969
hello,

I have an HD20 with 450 hours on it. Lately it will only show a green screen when trying to connect my blu-ray. It wil also do this occasionally when connected to the HD cable box (when changing channels for example) The hd20 will not respond to the remote when this happens. It will turn off if I use the power button on the unit. WhenI get it turned back on, it can work fine for hours before doing it again. The unit feels very hot. Might this be heat related. I have it mounted on the ceiling upside down on a very low profile mount.

Thank you
post #3895 of 3969
Real quick and simple question guys. Is there a master counter on these projectors? I've got me eye on one for sale with 100 hours on the bulb, but i don't want to find out it's been reset 100 hours ago, but in fact has 100,000,000 hours eek.gif
post #3896 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by lethagized View Post

Real quick and simple question guys. Is there a master counter on these projectors? I've got me eye on one for sale with 100 hours on the bulb, but i don't want to find out it's been reset 100 hours ago, but in fact has 100,000,000 hours eek.gif

As I am still on my first bulb after 3.5 years, I can't say for certain as my hours show as the same. Go into the service menu by pressing Off, Left, Left, Up.

Mine looks like this:
HD20
HD20 (C07) Nov 16 2009 14:58:29
8051 FW Version C02
EDID SN
Display Hour 1272
Lamp Hour 1272
Bright Lamp Hours 13
STD Lamp Hours 1258

and then more info. It must round up each time it's turned off or something. Because there is no way I have 13 hours of Bright mode usage. I have only ever turned on bright mode so what it looked like I would be shocked it I actually had it on for more than 1 hour. But I am sure I have turned it on/off likely 13 times.

So it looks like Display Hour would be the master total that is not reset. Check it out.
Edited by xenon2000 - 10/27/13 at 10:02pm
post #3897 of 3969
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brackneyc View Post

hello,

I have an HD20 with 450 hours on it. Lately it will only show a green screen when trying to connect my blu-ray. It wil also do this occasionally when connected to the HD cable box (when changing channels for example) The hd20 will not respond to the remote when this happens. It will turn off if I use the power button on the unit. WhenI get it turned back on, it can work fine for hours before doing it again. The unit feels very hot. Might this be heat related. I have it mounted on the ceiling upside down on a very low profile mount.

Thank you

Hopefully someone has a suggestion for you. My HD20 is also ceiling mounted with a custom ultra low profile mount. I like in Phoenix with tons of heat and dust. I only use low bulb mode and I haven't had any issues and the master service menu showed 27 for the temperature. Go into the Service Menu by pressing OFF, LEFT, LEFT, UP and see what the temp shows. Though I don't think that would cause a green screen. It sounds more like an HDCP issue. Maybe try another HDMI cable? Bypass your receiver if you are using one, etc. See if that makes a difference to see if it's the HD20 or something else.
post #3898 of 3969
Thanks Mate
post #3899 of 3969

Hey everyone, ive just bought a new lamp for my HD20

(http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/350696557845?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)

When i installed the lamp and power the pj on, the power button blinks as per normal, but the lamp never comes on, but rather the lamp LED comes on and the power LED flashes orange afterwards. ive tried reseating the lamp at least 5 times but thats no help.

 

any ideas??? thanks

post #3900 of 3969
Hey guys, back again with a theoretical question more than anything. My HD 20 has a max vertical refresh rate of 85Hz, correct? At least that's what it says on Optoma's website. I'm a big time gamer, and use a PC hooked up to the Optoma, so as a lark I tried creating a custom 1080p@84 Hz refresh rate. All it did when I tested it was give me a signal error "out of range". Thoughts, anyone? Thanks!

EDIT-

If anyone's interested, I've found out that the HD20 will do up to 85 Hz, but only at 1024x768. It will do up to 75 Hz at 1280x1024. Cool that it works, but I don't think the resolution hit is worth the few extra refreshes, and it's not the right ratio.
Edited by ruggercb - 11/20/13 at 7:15pm
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