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Tricks for Running Speaker Wire

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
I am looking for some advice or better yet some real world experience. I have a 7.1 setup in a basement HT. MY L/C/R front speakers were mounted on the wall close to the top of the ceiling... about two feet below. I have recently bought some floor standing speakers and need to get the speaker wire closer to the floor, but the wire is too short. About 10 feet short on all lines. I like a clean look so would like the wires as close to level with the new speaker plugs as possible so you do not see them.

The three speaker wires are running together (not tide together) and feed each outlet. Now for the tricky part. My rack is at 9 oclock if you are facing the screen. The speaker wire run on top of air conditioning vent and make a 90 degree turn and feed the three speakers.

What would be the best way to re-run the wire?
1. Securely tape the new speaker wire to the wire at reciever/rack and pull all the way through? Then get a fish and feed up behind dry wall and tape the speaker wire up there and pull down through a new opening at speaker plug level?

2. Just the opposite as above. Tape at speaker outlet and pull from back of my rack. that would be a 90 degree left turn instead of right

One other idea is try and run the fish wire through the current speaker whole and hopefully it will do a 90 degree left turn and pop out of rack. That would require me to do it three times. The rack has an open "roof" where are all the wires come down from.

Here is a picture of my screen if standing with the rack to the left.

Hope this makes sense.
LL
post #2 of 8
Why not just splice in the needed extra length?
post #3 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

Why not just splice in the needed extra length?

No problem with that. Best approach would be to solder the splice and cover with heat shrink tubing. However plain old wire nuts will work as well.
post #4 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glimmie View Post

No problem with that. Best approach would be to solder the splice and cover with heat shrink tubing. However plain old wire nuts will work as well.

.

Right now I have speaker wire spliced in and running outside the wall. I Then I covered the splice with electrical tape. wanted to check on speaker placement and make sure they were functionaing properly.

I could leave it the way it is and then just run wire down through wall to new opening. My concern was how good of a long term solution is that? Will it degrade the quality of the signal?
post #5 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by stepmback View Post

.

My concern was how good of a long term solution is that? Will it degrade the quality of the signal?

It's perfectly fine as a long term solution. Don't give it a seond thought.

If you had the right testing equipment you might be able to measure a difference between it and a full length unspliced cable. However I will guarentee that you will never hear any audible difference.
post #6 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by smokinghot View Post

It's perfectly fine as a long term solution. Don't give it a seond thought.

If you had the right testing equipment you might be able to measure a difference between it and a full length unspliced cable. However I will guarentee that you will never hear any audible difference.

Sold.... I just need to get some more 12 guage speaker wire. I think I matched my existing in wall wire with some 16 guage as a temp solution. I even think one of my friends has some of the heat sink equipment to do this.
post #7 of 8
Just to be clear, wire twisted together is not a long term solution. It should be soldered and covered with either heat shrink or good tight electrical tape. Heat shrink can be put on with a flame if you don't have a heat gun.
post #8 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Just to be clear, wire twisted together is not a long term solution. It should be soldered and covered with either heat shrink of good tight electrical tape. Heat shrink can be put on with a flame if you don't have a heat gun.

That will be my plan. Solder... then heat sink.
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