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Help diagnosing Samsung DLP problem

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
I would appreciate any assistance in diagnosing a problem with my Samsung DLP DLP HLR5067WAX/XAA. I've uploaded a video of the problem to youtube. (since I'm new to this site, I can't post a URL, but you can see it if you search my youtube ID: bluedog925).

As you can see in the video, when I plug in the unit, the TV starts automatically, but the picture is highly distorted and jittery, though audio seems ok. After about 15 seconds the picture freezes and audio goes out, then the picture goes out also. After another 5+ seconds, the distorted picture and audio come back. This cycle repeats. The TV will not respond to pressing power button. I unplug the unit to turn it off. I tried pressing other commands on the remote (eg, MENU), but no response. Would a bad DMD chip cause this erratic system behavior?

I was going to order a replacement DMD board (part BP96-01102A on samsungparts.com), which doesn't come with a new DMD chip. I saw on another forum that a poster said his problem was fixed when the repairman replaced his digital control board assembly, which I think is ASSY PCB P-DIGITAL (part ASSY PCB P-DIGITAL). Both of these are over $400 each on samsungparts website so I'd like to be reasonably sure what I need to replace before I start ordering parts.

Thanks in advance!
post #2 of 12
Loss of system control and type of video symptoms seems like Digital board. But take the back off, tape the lamp door switch, and try to determine if the lamp stays on and colorwheel stays at full speed while the picture goes black? If they are on constant then seems like digital. If not then start checking colorwheel, ballast capacitor, dmd board.
post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thanks for your help!!!! What exactly am I checking on the DMD board? Also, just to clarify, is the DMD board the board which is attached to the panel with all the AV inputs? The board I am referring to is labeled: Hurricane2 L64C HLR4266W. Rev H2ANALOG V1.2 2005.04.12. Code BP4-00214C.

Also, which board is "ASSY PCB P-DIGITAL?"

Thanks again!
post #4 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by hammerdwn View Post

...take the back off, tape the lamp door switch, and try to determine if the lamp stays on and colorwheel stays at full speed while the picture goes black?

Quote:
Originally Posted by aybills View Post

Thanks for your help!!!! What exactly am I checking on the DMD board? Also, just to clarify, is the DMD board the board which is attached to the panel with all the AV inputs? The board I am referring to is labeled: Hurricane2 L64C HLR4266W. Rev H2ANALOG V1.2 2005.04.12. Code BP4-00214C.

Also, which board is "ASSY PCB P-DIGITAL?"

Thanks again!

Get a service manual for your Tv.
post #5 of 12
hi there it looks like from the video i just saw that the problem is coming from your DMD board this board is the brain of your tv this board is the one that gets the color from the color wheel and spared it were the color should go and its also in charge of the image to make it fit your screen and in height and wideness you can go to a web page called howstuffworks and on the search box put DLP projection and it will show you how this board works good luck
post #6 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the assistance. I've uploaded more video samples of this problem with AV inputs disconnected.

I still can't paste the YouTube URL. If you want to see the video clip, search for my user ID "bluedog925". The clip is titled "samsung dlp problem part 3"

As one person pointed out to me, the blue overlay color remains constant (aside from the transparent jitter which is visible through the transparency). On one test run, I also got the "No source detected" overlay in the center of the screen, which also maintained the constant blue color. This person advised me that the color wheel was ok, since a color wheel malfunction would affect all picture elements equally and I wouldn't see the steady blue color. He thought it might actually be a weak power supply.

I've confirmed that the lamp remains on whether the picture is on or not. I hear an audible clicking/switching sound when the TV picture comes on or off.

Any additional insights would be greatly appreciated. (I'm tempted to just start replacing boards, but the DMD board is ~400 bucks, so I don't want to sink more money into this TV unless I'm reasonably sure it'll fix it.)

Thanks again!
post #7 of 12
Thread Starter 
Perhaps the switching/clicking is a contactor/relay? As I mentioned, the picture turning on/off coincides with the clicking. If so, I'm wondering what the criteria is for turning the contactors on and off...
post #8 of 12
Still going with my first guess of Digital board. Mainly because in your first video the picture is all flickering but the Tv osd channel banner seems steady. If it was dmd the Tv osd would be flickering the same as the picture content. Second, Tv is not reacting to remote or front panel commands. Third because usually when dmd board fails (with picture freeze and blackout) it shuts down the colorwheel and lamp momentarily.

The clicking is something I never run into. You should visually check capacitors for bulging tops, but it's not likely.
post #9 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thanks again for your ongoing assistance. I went onto samsungparts website and there are two different PCBs described as "digital" boards.

Are you referring to:
Part Number: BP96-02168A (This is a new part for BP94-01859F which is discontinued by manufacturer.)
Description: ASSY PCB P-DIGITAL
Price: $469.41

The other board is:
Part Number: BP94-02084A
Description: ASSY PCB MISC-DIGITAL//CHECK MODEL CODE
Price: $238.00
(I've attached a picture of the latter assembly.)
LL
post #10 of 12
I came up with BP94-02084A
post #11 of 12
Quote:


I still can't paste the YouTube URL. If you want to see the video clip, search for my user ID "bluedog925". The clip is titled "samsung dlp problem part 3"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvET-...eature=channel

Samsung DLP problem part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7yKF...eature=channel

part 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrcgV...eature=channel
post #12 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thanks again! I'll try replacing the digital board and hope it works out.
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