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The April Fools Flood Procrasto-Budget Build - Page 2

post #31 of 177
8/31/09 at 1:14pm
Thread Starter 
I was going to put on my to do list, that reminds me I need to make a to do list.

FYI that AutoClamp thing works pretty good for clamping headers in place when doing framing by yourself. Would not pay full price for it (what else is new) but for $10 it was a steal.
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post #32 of 177
8/31/09 at 1:16pm
Thread Starter 
The cordless drill is good but the battery life sucks, I only bought it because I had a set of batteries and charger already. Trust me you need 3-4 batteries and 2 chargers to get anything done. In hindsight I would have went corded!
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post #33 of 177
9/1/09 at 4:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dradius View Post

Looking good so far. Floods suck. I just went through it so I know how you feel. How do you like that B&D hammer drill? I need to get one. Also good info about the tapcons Jpdeuce

If you aren't a snob about your tools, the Harbor Freight hammer drill I picked up has been doing just fine for drilling pilot holes and tapcons in concrete. It's corded and only about $30. If you don't have a HF close by, you could always pick it up on their website.
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post #34 of 177
9/7/09 at 9:15am
Thread Starter 
Ok, a little more progress! I am nearly out of supplies, down to about 5 2x4's (and about 45 little 6 in 2x4's my son has made in to "highways" for his toy trucks).

Framed most of the exterior of the HT area, I need to finalize my plan for the bathroom and around the furnace.







Next step is to get more 1.5" Rigid Foam sheet and insulate the rest of the basement. At the same time I will get in more 2x's and OSB for the floor.



Ran into an issue with drainage, I had a spill from the dehumidifer and it pooled on top of the Platon floor where the drain underneath is! I drilled some small holes to allow it to drain through but it begs the question, what happens if I get a bathroom or laundry over flow?? Should I drill or cut out the drain area? It seems kind of counter active.
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post #35 of 177
9/7/09 at 9:22am
Thread Starter 
On related side note I am thinking about building a large storage area above my garage door to store basement stuff that is clogging up the garage and for general storage once everything is done. Any one have any prior experience doing something like this? I don't want to over kill it but I don't want to have any support issues.

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post #36 of 177
9/7/09 at 1:27pm
Thread Starter 
Something along the lines of this but with wood instead...

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post #37 of 177
9/8/09 at 8:45am
Thread Starter 
To Do List:

-Make a to do list
-Buy Foam, 2x6's, 2x4's, OSB and tapcons for the OSB
-Glue foam to all remaining exterior walls
-finalize design
-build landing at bottom of stairs
-Buy one small roll of platon
-install final areas of platon
-spray foam bottom between foam board and platon
-install OSB
-figure out if sub panel is required
-run H/C lines to bathroom
-vent laundry plumbing properly
-buy conduit for low voltage and install
-buy materials for soffits
-build soffits
-decide on projector (16:9 min 720P) (looking at used so if you are selling, let me know!)
-decide on screen type
-decide on screen size
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post #38 of 177
9/8/09 at 12:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gitSehT View Post

Something along the lines of this but with wood instead...


Do your joists run across the garage opening or with the garage opening?
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post #39 of 177
9/8/09 at 3:22pm
Thread Starter 
I believe they run with the garage opening (front to back). What do I win?!?
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post #40 of 177
9/8/09 at 6:33pm
Thread Starter 
To Do List:

+Make a to do list
+Buy Foam, 2x6's, 2x4's, OSB and tapcons for the OSB
-Glue foam to all remaining exterior walls
-finalize design
-build landing at bottom of stairs
-Buy one small roll of platon
-install final areas of platon
-spray foam bottom between foam board and platon
-install OSB
-figure out if sub panel is required
-run H/C lines to bathroom
-vent laundry plumbing properly
-buy conduit for low voltage and install
-buy materials for soffits
-build soffits
-decide on projector (16:9 min 720P) (looking at used so if you are selling, let me know!)
-decide on screen type
-decide on screen size
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post #41 of 177
9/9/09 at 6:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gitSehT View Post

I believe they run with the garage opening (front to back). What do I win?!?

lol

Well, I think the way I would do it is:

1 - Run 2x6 or 2x8 the width of your storage and secure to joists above
2 - Drop down vertical supports to the ends of those 2x6s or 2x8s (secure through the ends and add some sort of L bracket on the inside 90)
3 - Then you could either do horizontal supports with wood, or you could drill holes and do round bar supports. The round bar supports would be good for sliding long stuff on, but make it a little tougher to put a "floor" on your storage. You could probably do both actually.
4 - Install "floor"

That would be the basic concept I would use...making sure to beef up all joints with a little good ol' fashioned overkill.
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post #42 of 177
9/9/09 at 10:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gitSehT View Post

Got a bit of work done today but I caught my sub-contractor lying down on the job...











Taped off the spray foam between the sheets and the platon



Had to watch a bit of the Top Gear marathon on BBC




Took a little chunk out of the woodpile, I kept braking tapcons so I took them back and got shorter ones thanks to the tips in a thread I can not seem to find right now.


I am a commercial general contractor and we use a lot of tapcon screws, but there is a cheaper way. You drill a hole throught the bottom plate and into the concrete slab the size of a 16d nail. Then stick a piece of tie wire in the hole. Next just drive the 16d nail. This will hold very well and costs very little. Tapcons hold well and are removable. That is one reason why contractors use them so much.
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post #43 of 177
9/9/09 at 10:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gitSehT View Post

Ok, a little more progress! I am nearly out of supplies, down to about 5 2x4's (and about 45 little 6 in 2x4's my son has made in to "highways" for his toy trucks).

Framed most of the exterior of the HT area, I need to finalize my plan for the bathroom and around the furnace.







Next step is to get more 1.5" Rigid Foam sheet and insulate the rest of the basement. At the same time I will get in more 2x's and OSB for the floor.



Ran into an issue with drainage, I had a spill from the dehumidifer and it pooled on top of the Platon floor where the drain underneath is! I drilled some small holes to allow it to drain through but it begs the question, what happens if I get a bathroom or laundry over flow?? Should I drill or cut out the drain area? It seems kind of counter active.

A drain has a trap. The trap needs to stay full of water or you will get sewer gases. A covered drain is not a good idea.
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post #44 of 177
9/9/09 at 12:56pm
Thread Starter 
mjg100 -I had heard of the nail and wire method before, I just never seemed to think it would work as well. I also liked the idea of being able to remove the tapcons if needed.

The floor is dimpled and allows air movement and water to drain into it. Any suggestions on how to make my setup better?

I also installed a anti- back up plug before putting down the platon flooring.
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post #45 of 177
9/12/09 at 6:50pm
Thread Starter 
Soooooo tired and hurt, this showed up this morning.............




and me and pops and Jr. made quick work of the 2x's by utilizing the ol' hole in the wall.





It took 8 mins to move 40 2x's from the drive way into the basement (including a 2 year olds "help")
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post #46 of 177
9/12/09 at 8:02pm
Thread Starter 
Got everything moved down to the basement, my back is thanking me for cheaping out and getting 5/8" OSB not 3/4". Those puppies weigh a ton!

Got some foam up on the wall and a little bit of framing done. Replaced a faulty vent that would not close.



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post #47 of 177
9/13/09 at 11:57am
What's the combined thickness of your subfloor (Platon + OSB)? I'm going to be doing exactly the same thing, but wanted to figure out how much height I am going to lose in the process...

Thanks!
B
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post #48 of 177
9/13/09 at 4:13pm
Thread Starter 
Platon is 1/4" so total is 7/8". I have been putting 2x4's flat on the platon to judge the final clearances and heights (1.5" + 0.25" = platon +OSB+ flooring + drywall on the ceiling).
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post #49 of 177
9/13/09 at 7:21pm
That sounds like a good trick with the 2x4. I don't think I am going to sweat losing 1.5" with 9' ceilings - just wanted to make sure since I am looking at about 1,600 SF of the stuff in the basement.
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post #50 of 177
9/14/09 at 6:29am
Thread Starter 
Damn you and your gaint 9' ceiling basement!!

I am still trying figure the best way to handle the bathroom and the laundry. I think for the laundry I am just going to leave concrete floors so if there is an issue the water will just flow under the platon to the drain or the sump. I am not sure about the bathroom though
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post #51 of 177
9/14/09 at 4:32pm
I just replied to that question in another thread...

I am with you on leaving the laundry room concrete. That's what I am going to do for the furnace room (saves $$ too!). As for the bathroom, I'd tile it. In my basement, there is already a tiled floor on the concrete, so I am just going to tile on top of it rather than rip it out and put down the sub-floor. If you are tiling, I would imagine you would still want to put the platon underneath, or you'd have an interesting height transition between the bathroom and the hall. I think?
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post #52 of 177
9/14/09 at 5:09pm
If you are going to leave it cement, I think I would cover it with the epoxy garage floor covering. I put that down in my garage and love it. I think I used the Rustoleum product. I wouldn't use as many sprinkles in the laundry room though.
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post #53 of 177
9/14/09 at 6:49pm
Thread Starter 
Bhuttman- I would highly recommend NOT tiling over tile, rip it out!!! There are no gaurentees it was tiled right, plus tiling on concrete is sketchy to start off with.

I have platon everywhere currently except at the bottom of the stairs (where I ran out). The bathroom was going to be platon/OSB/Ditra/Tile, but I am thinking about cutting out the Platon after I frame out the bathroom then put Ditra on the cement then tile. This in theory would allow any water to drop of the edge under the framing and platon.



JPdeuce- I was thinking of either epoxy or high drainage interlocking mats:

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post #54 of 177
9/14/09 at 7:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gitSehT View Post

JPdeuce- I was thinking of either epoxy or high drainage interlocking mats:


I think I would go with the epoxy. I would bet dirt, grass, lint, and whatever else falls off the dirty laundry, would end up in those holes. Actually, who does the laundry? If your wife, have her pick. I put down some leftover indoor/outdoor carpet in our utility room, and it's comfortable and easy to vacuum. If there was some water issue in there, I wouldn't think twice about throwing it out.
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post #55 of 177
9/15/09 at 6:27am
Thread Starter 
Great idea on the outdoor carpet, it would be warmer and I would not worry about it getting wet.
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post #56 of 177
9/15/09 at 6:46am
If you haven't made a decision yet, there's some really cool looking Concrete Stains.

http://www.stainedconcrete.org/resid...galleries.html
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post #57 of 177
9/15/09 at 8:50am
Thread Starter 
The have some cool finishes but I like DIY and I can see that being pricey. Thanks for the link, it gives me some ideas though.
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post #58 of 177
9/15/09 at 6:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gitSehT View Post

Bhuttman- I would highly recommend NOT tiling over tile, rip it out!!! There are no gaurentees it was tiled right, plus tiling on concrete is sketchy to start off with.

I have platon everywhere currently except at the bottom of the stairs (where I ran out). The bathroom was going to be platon/OSB/Ditra/Tile, but I am thinking about cutting out the Platon after I frame out the bathroom then put Ditra on the cement then tile. This in theory would allow any water to drop of the edge under the framing and platon.

Really, eh? My thinking was just that the tiling has been there for probably 20 years, and the bathroom also includes a sauna. I just didn't want to get into the effort of ripping it out, but it may have to happen. Why wouldn't you do it? BTW, I am planning to use a Schluter system for the shower - have used it before with very positive results...
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post #59 of 177
9/16/09 at 9:55am
Thread Starter 
I hate the "unknown" factor of the old tile, but if it is as rock solid as you say just make sure you scuff the old tiles with some 150 grit and use the proper compounds ( I would tell you what to use but I have never tiled over tile.
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post #60 of 177
9/16/09 at 7:12pm
Thread Starter 
New layout concepts



I like this narrow bathroom one but I need to figure out the dimensions, I may need to go with a pocket door. Anyone have a bathroom like this one they can measure for me?

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