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The April Fools Flood Procrasto-Budget Build - Page 3

post #61 of 177
Quote:
Originally Posted by In2Photos View Post

I'm a butt man, too.



Was that too much information?

Only if it's women's butts is it not TMI. If it's other men's butts then it's definitely TMI.
post #62 of 177
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpdeuce View Post

If you aren't a snob about your tools, the Harbor Freight hammer drill I picked up has been doing just fine for drilling pilot holes and tapcons in concrete. It's corded and only about $30. If you don't have a HF close by, you could always pick it up on their website.

My HF hammer drill drilled a whopping 4 holes before it burned up on me. Every single HF tool I've had, except 1 has broken on me. I say save your money and get a high quality used tool off of Craigslist!
post #63 of 177
I guess your mileage may vary. I've had a 10 inch chop saw from them for several years that I've used for several projects with no issues. This hammer drill held up as well, once I learned how to use it (letting it do the work, instead of all my weight).

There would definitely be certain tools that I would want to be of good quality and a better name behind it.
post #64 of 177
Thread Starter 
Ok, I need finalize the layout, any input on the bathrooms? Anyone have a nice little half bath they can show me a layout of? Or take pic? Or give me dimensions? help!
post #65 of 177
Quote:
Originally Posted by gitSehT View Post

Ok, I need finalize the layout, any input on the bathrooms? Anyone have a nice little half bath they can show me a layout of? Or take pic? Or give me dimensions? help!

I'd go option 2 based on the door swing. I've got a similar bathroom on our main floor, although it is a little longer. I'm not a huge fan of the swing since you really need to close the door to use the toilet. Wait a minute, maybe that's the whole point...

But truthfully, where are you going to stand in the bathroom to get the door closed? Any chance you can put in a pocket door instead? I'll grab some pics and post them in a couple o' minutes.
post #66 of 177
Here are some pics. Decor is what we inherited from previous owner. And there's a combo tub/shower behind the curtain. I am guessing the room is about 8-9' long by 3 1/2' wide.





Here's the door set up similar to your option 2:


Oh yeah - little tip to anyone with young'uns - great motivation for using the potty is a Nintendo DS! And that artwork on the wall? My 6 year-old did that at school, and is taking commissions if anyone is interested.
post #67 of 177
Quote:
Originally Posted by gitSehT View Post

I like this narrow bathroom one but I need to figure out the dimensions, I may need to go with a pocket door. Anyone have a bathroom like this one they can measure for me?


Option 2 with pocket door...no doubt.

FYI - On the pocket door kit, you need the door width times 2 plus 1 inch, for the raw frame. I've got a 24 inch door in my basement bathroom, where I just put in the pocket door. So, just make sure you plan for that part of the wall to be able to fit a 49 inch opening or more...which shouldn't be an issue.
post #68 of 177
Thread Starter 
Bhuttman! Awesome thanks for the pics!!! i take it the 8' dimension is longer the room needs to be due to the shower? I will redo my plans at 3.5' wide and check the clearences.

Jp- thanks for the pocket door tips, is the 24" door a bathroom or closet?
post #69 of 177
Quote:
Originally Posted by gitSehT View Post

Jp- thanks for the pocket door tips, is the 24" door a bathroom or closet?

The basement bathroom, check near the end of my thread. I'm about to gut that bathroom, after I get the baseboards on the main area (mon/tues project).
post #70 of 177
Quote:
Originally Posted by gitSehT View Post

Bhuttman! Awesome thanks for the pics!!! i take it the 8' dimension is longer the room needs to be due to the shower? I will redo my plans at 3.5' wide and check the clearences.

Jp- thanks for the pocket door tips, is the 24" door a bathroom or closet?

No problem on pics. As for measurements, I just busted out the tape measure and the room is 114" (just over 9') x 38". It's about 4' from the sink wall to the door, a standard 28" door, and then 3' from door to back of toilet wall.

Looks like you might have a pocket door in your future!
post #71 of 177
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys!!! Awesome, I love when I can eliminate the unknowns!!

Did a bunch of work on the weekend but did not have a chance to take pics. The common wall on the bathroom/theater are all that is left for framing on the theater (except for soffits). The layout is changing for the better!
post #72 of 177
You'll be fine with a tight squeeze in the bathroom. Just get creative with painting the floor, and no one will notice ...

post #73 of 177
Thread Starter 
Good idea, I was thinking of a sports theme....











post #74 of 177
How about an "Under the Sea" theme?

post #75 of 177
See - this is what makes AVS so great!

Look at all these helpful ideas generated for free! You can't buy that kind of help!



And thank goodness for that.
post #76 of 177
Thread Starter 
I went by one of my friends shops (graphics company) yesterday and we started talking about screen material, he has some vinyl that I think would work great for a DIY screen. When it comes time to get PJ and screen I am going to get some samples and see what works best.
post #77 of 177
Quote:
Originally Posted by gitSehT View Post

I went by one of my friends shops (graphics company) yesterday and we started talking about screen material, he has some vinyl that I think would work great for a DIY screen. When it comes time to get PJ and screen I am going to get some samples and see what works best.

Looking forward to your feedback on this. I have been reading MississippiMan for a while now in the DIY screen section, so whenever I get to the screen, I am going to see if I can get his feedback. Are you planning to put paint on the material or just go with the vinyl?
post #78 of 177
Thread Starter 
This is the framing around the exhuast vent, I will frame a small box around it later. The closet will go across where the 2x is laid on the floor, the screen will go in front of that (either hinged frame or drop down screen).

post #79 of 177
Thread Starter 
Soooo Crappy Tire (Canadian Tire for you yanks, its a store where I would buy anything but tires at) has there garage organizer system on sale.



I figure a couple of these should help me with my garage mess which will in turn help me move stuff from the basement speeding up the process.
post #80 of 177
Thread Starter 
So I am in to some weird framing for my AV and PC Closets it has kind of slowed progress. Once I get past that It should be quick work framing in the bathroom, then the OSB can go down in the theater. I am trying to decide if I should lay down the OSB before or after I frame the closet/screen wall. I am thinking if I or anyone else wants make that one big room in the future it would be easier if the wall was framed on top of the OSB.

Indicated by the Red lines...

post #81 of 177
Doesn't the Dricore instructions suggest putting Dricore down and then framing on top of it? I think I would go that route as well. Will make for less cuts on the floor...and an easier install all the way around.
post #82 of 177
Not sure how you canukistans handle building codes, but here in MN your utility room wouldn't fly... You need 3ft clearance between utilities and in front of any access panel. Also, water sources have to have disconnect switches within 3ft if electric (water heater/dryer)

Have you checked your local building codes to make sure this is going to be okay? Where is your electrical panel? I haven't seen any mention of dedicated circuit runs or installation of a subpanel yet. Something to think about while you're still framing. Nothing better than adding an extra 18 slot 100a subpanel. (not to mention whole house surge suppression)
post #83 of 177
Thread Starter 
With the platon flooring the instructions recommend doing the exterior walls on top of the plastic platon floor and then put the OSB down with a 1/4" gap all the way around. It says you can frame non-supporting walls on top of the OSB.


I was basing my furnace room on the rule of thumb for clearance from furnaces and hot water heaters etc. The front should have at least the same distance as the entire depth of the device. The sides and front should be at least on half the width and depth for access.

This is a more recent version of the layout, the washer dryer will be stacked. So there should be more then 3ft between them and the furnace. The hot water heater is its original position. The main panel for the house is in the garage.

post #84 of 177
Looks good to me. After our pocket door discussion, I have been dreaming about reno-ing our bathroom just so I can put in a pocket door...
post #85 of 177
Thread Starter 
Got a bit of framing done during the week on the bathroom/ theater common wall, this shot is looking towards the rough in for the toilet, through the space where the sink wall will be.


Theater side (notice how I have gone from calling it Rec. Room to Theater). If I would give one piece of advice to anyone it would be remove everything you can from the build area that is not construction material. This TV is always in the way, and can be a distraction, plus you end up moving everything 10 times when you want to move to a new area.


Fancy Chisel work, I could have done this with power tools but my dad had brought over some of my grandfathers old tools so I decided to try my hand at it the old fashion way.
post #86 of 177
Thread Starter 
Got a bit of framing done yesterday with my youngest (2 year old) helping out. He swept and counted out screws!

I avoided a pontential critical error by placing the toilet beside the rough in to quadriple check the distance to the wall. I had made a mock up previously but somehow got it wrong after checking 3 times. I would have been short by 3/8" when the drywall was in. So I moved the closet wall back which still gives me a healthy 26" Wide x 21" deep closet. I was going to put a 21" Panasonic in the a/v closet but it looks like my 27" Toshiba CRT would even fit.



Picture from the theater side, the space between the pole framing and the box out for the toliet is going to be a 6" deep x 48" wide recess for a DVD shelf or some other storage.



Picture from the office side...

post #87 of 177
Thread Starter 
I think I have 90% convinced myself that I am going to go with 2 -28" pocket doors behind the screen. It requires 114" min. width and I have 116" and it will allow me to save some space as well as eliminate the worry of the kids opening the door and damaging the screen.

I don't feel like I am making progress (pics would be a waste of time) however I must be doing something because I went through 40 2x's and had to go to HD twice this week. Looks like I am going to need to get another delivery this weekend of 2x's, pocket doors, and OSB. I think it may be time to move the remaining crap out of the basement and clear room for flooring.
post #88 of 177
Thread Starter 
Ok, did a quick 3D sketch to make things a little easier to picture. I will try to throw in some speakers, and furniture soon.

Overview


Theater cut away with a 110" screen

post #89 of 177
Thread Starter 
A little more detail....

post #90 of 177
Thread Starter 
I finally found a picture of what I was thinking of doing for soffits/bulkheads. I want to leave a 4" gap and have lighting out of sight, like the picture below from the Trump Tower article:



Any ideas on the best way to do this?

It may be a good way to manage cables after the fact as well, I could have troughs for the cables to run to conduit in the walls. I could run the cables in the trough and then drop them into the appropriate conduit.
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