"Beginner's Delight" DIY Screen Paint - Page 2

Schmezzy

Thanks for writing an excellent and informative post. And with only 4 posts to your credit in 4 years I'm very tempted to go read the other three. Your experience with white, gray and enhanced sheen levels thru the careful addition of poly, and doing visual verification as the test of what you wanted to achieve, is exactly the same method several of us have followed with similar results. Thanks for adding to the data pool for others to build on.

As to comments made to disparage this method or point to its limitations by others, I don't think some people will ever understand the physics of reflected light coupled with the anatomy of the human eye and brain working in concert. Who cares if BOC is 1.0 or .85 in its reflective index. You pointed out that you were guessing not measuring, and more importantly you were comparing and explaining that comparison. Most people don't have a calibrated block of calcium carbonate or whatever they use to establish unity gain, but do have an idea of what BOC looks like projected to and your even better comparison was the Kilz primer.

The bottom line is you are now getting a level of returning foot lamberts to your eyes that is acceptable and producing a pleasing image. You are doing that while maintaining better ambient light performance than before, and have reached a point where your performance has exceeded your desire for ambient light. In doing so with a simple method that required minimal tools and equipment and skills most DIYers would feel comfortable trying. You even pointed out that you have done wall painting in the past and like many of us have found the poly seems to add an ease in getting the paint to level and smooth out, as long as the method of maintaining a wet edge between passes is done.

In your future you mentioned more lumens and most likely a projector capable of better CR. Both of these things should benefit you with this same approach, and yes possibly a darker screen. The idea that you couldn't tailor this method to a better brighter projector without hot spotting is balderdash.

Once again thanks for a great post. Enjoy your screen, and looking forward to your next post in a year or so..

OT arguments removed, infractions issued. Let's stay on topic, and avoid the personality issues...

Thank you Tiddler for setting out such a great Beginner's Delight thread, and for the videos too.

My husband and I just finished painting our screen using the CIL + Polyacrylic method. I thought I would post some of our experiences to give back to the community that helped us out with this low-cost DIY painted screen!

We have an older Viewsonic PJ552 projector with many many hours of bulb use (more than double the life expectancy - this is our main TV we've used it nearly every day for approximately 4 years).

We had a previous screen that we painted with Digital Goo. Recently though, we decided to change the location of our screen, so we needed to re-create a screen. Our Digital Goo was painted directly on the wall, and therefore not moveable to the new location. Both the new and old locations are in a room with nearly floor to ceiling windows that have blackout curtains with so-so coverage (my husband keeps saying we need one more panel).

Due to economic conditions, we decided we didn't want to go with another Digital Goo screen, we thought we would try something lower cost to see how it compares. (I.e. Can we live with the difference in the screen given the difference in price?)

For those in Ottawa, this might help you with your search for CIL paint:
- We first went to the Canadian Tire in Bell's Corners, they did not know what to do with the code 00NN 62/000 W/B or the colour named Universal Grey.
- We went to Home Depot in Kanata and they not only carry CIL paint, but the guy there was helpful, knew exactly what to do with the colour code, and knew exactly what MinWax to get.
- We were going to buy primer, but he suggested we get the paint with the built-in primer

Here is what we got:

• one quart of CIL smart(3) Ultra Matte "One Coat Ultra Premium Interiour" paint
• one quart MinWax Ultra Fast-Drying Polycrylic Protective Finish in Clear Satin

The top of the CIL paint can (the Home Depot label) says (it's a bit cut off):

Base:88100 - Flat, matte
CIL SMART3 wash & Wear
(Universal Grey) 00nn 62/00

CLRNT B C R
OZ 0 0 0
384th 50 16 10

(Sorry for the bad formatting above, I tried to clean it up, but I couldn't get it to work. Essentially it should be a table with four columns)

We were painting over a fairly bright yellow wall. Our screen is approximately 4 feet tall by 6 feet wide. (It's not 16:9 or 4:3, it matches a feature of our house instead).

We did a single coat of the paint first, by roller, as a base/primer coat to cover the yellow. We let that dry overnight.

We then mixed 3 parts paint to 1 part PolyCrylic and rolled on a coat of the mixture following Tiddler's video instructions.

We did not have enough paint to do a second coat of the mixture. I think we should have either got a separate primer or a larger container of paint if we wanted to do two coats of the the mixture. I'm not sure yet if one coat was enough - the paint is still drying.

Here is a photo of our completed screen:



And here is one of the stir stick with our new screen paint held up against our old Digital Goo screen. As you can see, the colours are nearly identical. The Goo has more light reflectivity to it though.



Thanks again for this excellent community.

Hi there,

First of all I have to admit I am a TOTAL newb, I don't even have a projector yet, but I will shortly. Being on a tight budget I decided that I would paint a screen as cheap way to start off with projecting.
After reading more posts on more forums than I care to admit, I have learned that a painted screen really can do a good job if done correctly. So here I am and I am starting to think I am understanding most of the basic concepts.
This particular thread is probably the way I will do it. I do have a question about the different Behr paints, I originally was going to use the UPW1050 as a base for tinting but most of the discussion about adding the poly is directly referencing the 1750, are the ratios the same? Or is the 1750 the preferred base for the poly?
I know that every setup is unique and viewing is subjective but I did want to know if anyone could advise me if I am on the right track. So here is my plan, Optoma HD20 projector in a smallish basement room with no windows. My maximum throw distance is 9' 3" I realize my screen size is limited at that distance (about 80" diagonal) but that is all I have. At that distance I am concerned about the picture washing out so I am leaning towards an N8 tint + poly. I can have the room completely light controlled however I like to have some ambient light.
I think I have come along way from first wanting a plain white painted screen then wanting a plain Behr silverscreen finish screen. But being a first timer I just need some reassurance that I am headed in the right directions.

Thanks!

Thanks for the reply, I have read buds thread and several others and have learned a lot. It seems that with updates and new experiments the older info adds a bit of confusion to me, but for the most part I get it.

At this point it looks like I am to the "try it and see how it looks"stage. I will be starting my first screen this weekend, while my projector is being shipped.

I really appreciate all of the efforts and shared info that you and others have put into thes DIY painting threads.

I have high hopes for my first try. Thanks Again

Hi,
I got my 1st PJ (Epson 8100) a month ago. It's quite a bright projector, but my room has ambient light issue so I do need that extra lumen. Beside, I love bright image.
I'm in the process of converting my game-room into a dual-use HT. Apart from re-painting the room with darker color, I'm also making my 1st screen. My brother has the Wilson Art DW laminate screen. Look great, but get penalized severely with ambient. After a month of reading, I decided to go with the neutral gray. I want to mix with the poly at the 4:1 ratio to get the brightness back (again, I love bright image). So this is what I get:

- 1 qt of Behr 4850 tinted N8.5
- 4:1 Minwax clear satin polycrylic
- 5x10ft 1/2 thick ultra-board (https://www.pitman.com/storefrontCom...40&itm_index=0).

As you can read from the description on the website, this foam board has a plastic face and is designed for painting/printing. Surface is extremely smooth. One side is white, the other is black. I decided to go with this board because I can use both sides: the white as is and I can paint the black side with whatever paint I can come up with. Since the board is thick and strong, I just make a fix frame on the wall, then flip the screen (I just like having flexibility)

Being the first screen, I no doubt have fear with my choice of paint and material. So please advise:
- With my PJ, will the poly (at 4:1 ratio) and N8.5 do any harm to the PQ?
- The board manufacture suggests no prime is needed, should I prime this board before I paint? It's is natively black.
- I can either spray or roll. Which method is better? I can do either way, but spraying requires some covers, so I prefer rolling.

It's a new territory for me, so any help/advise from you is greatly appreciated. My board will be in next week. I'll painting the wall this weekend.

BTW, tiddler: thanks for the great post and video. I read most of your posts dated back in 2007. Thanks for pulling them together into one great thread for newb.

Well I got my screen made over the weekend it turned out great, I followed Tiddlers recommendations and 2 roller painting video.

Here are a couple pictures, one of the screen with my kid in front of it and one of a screen shot from a video game.

My camera does some weird image distortion and I am not a great photographer but in person it looks great. I really don't think I could be happier with how it turned out.

I'd venture it to mean a painted Screen application a DIY Screen making Beginner could consider doing with confidence, and be delighted with the end results.

Yes?

Nothing at all wrong with that. "Beginners" have to by nature begin somewhere, and if they find a high degree of satisfaction right at the start, that doesn't imply that their standards are low as much as it shows that the results were good enough to be considered more than just adequate.

A great starting point for a budding HT advocate....or a perfectly acceptable stopping point for those who never expected something as good to come along for so little expense and effort.

Either way....it's all good, this DIY Screen making stuff.

What's in a name? That which we call a rose
By any other name would smell as sweet;

Billy Shakespeare

I have never thought of coming up with names until the other day when one of the newcomers suggested a better name than Gray Paint for gray paint, would make searching for gray paint easier.

Nothing that suggests simplicity or easy or beginners is good, because 99.9% of things in the world have to be complex in order to be any good. In fact most really good things should be out of the realm of understanding of average people before they really become extra good. I hardly understand how anything I use works anymore.

So in light of that the name shouldn't really describe the screen paint or its ability to be produced or applied.

I notice a lot of names contain a color word, black and silver are good catchy ones to work into the name. Even though they are describing a gray paint. and you need an additional catchy word to go along with it people relate to.

We should start a name that paint thread maybe. Some of my ideas are.

Silver Fission
Black Plasma
Photon Silver
Black Hole
Silver Viper
Electron G_R_A_Y
MinwaxMudd

Just a few ideas we will see what others come up with.

How about " No Nonsense Newbie Nirvana N8 " , or in my case N7, or any other N since they are all possible.

Jason

Ok Bud, now your stretching the limits of your credibility.........


Now that's just nonsense Dude......... It's all in a name, not in a disguise.
Is this another "tongue in cheek" posting? If so, better "bite it"......Bud.


Silver Fission ........ (....too close to another nuclear application)
Black Plasma ........ (Plasma? We don't need no stinkin' Plasma!)
Photon Silver ........ ( Their Shields are coming down, Capn'! Full Spread?)
Black Hole ........ (....where not even light can escape. Not good.)
Silver Viper ........ (...ENOUGH with the Varmints, or I'll call in an Exterminator)
Electron G_R_A_Y ........ (.....A_R_E Y_O_U M_O_C_K_I_N_G M_E ?)
MinwaxMudd ........ (....no comment....)


Gamma Ray Gray........ (...a Killer app. to die for)
Gray Lady........ (...she's going down )
Dark Nite........ (...why so serious?)
Gay Gray........ (...go tell it to GLAAD)
Obsidian Star........ (...conflict of interest)
Cosmic Egg ........ (...ready to expand your Universe)
Silver Beacon ........ (...what's to gain with such a name?)
N-URFACE-Gray........ (...get up close and personal)
SimpleEnuff4U........ (...sez it all, doesn't it?)
Invisi-Screen ........ (...I said it first!)
Silver Shadow ........ (...now that's pretty cool )

...and my favorite;
Smoke & Mirrors

Of the above I like Gay Gray, I think there is an untapped DIY population out there. I like Smoke n Mirrors also, as that name best describes most of the DIY paint solutions.

That was a "gimmie" just for you, Bud.
I thought you'd like it.

How about "Depression Gray"..."Gray Fog"..."Squintin' Gray"....."Myopia Gray"

......or perhaps; " NARGE Gray" (Not A Really Good Enough..)

Really though...all joking aside, naming a application is serious stuff, and it should in fact tell a story in and of itself.

To add to MM's naming... this one would have to be:

SWING (so white, it's not gray)

Back to the name for this paint, I like it.

The name is what got me interested in it in the first place. I am a beginner and needed to make a screen. Not knowing what I needed, all the other names of paints did not really give me any indication of what it is or why I should try it. This one sounded like a great place to start for my first screen and as it stands right now after watching 200 hours on it, probably my only one.

Everyone of my friends and family that have seen it can not believe the picture quality of my projector (Optoma HD20) and they are even more amazed that I made the screen myself.

So as far as the name, I am a beginner and I am delighted. The only downside to the name is that it does leave the impression that there is ample room for improvement. If there is I really can't imagine what the improvement would be.

OK, I guess I will contradict myself now after typing for a while and more thinking. How about DIY Delight, keeps the simpleness of DIY apparent and the delight for the result. Some of the other screen paint names sound difficult for the DIYer just from the name.

Either way I am happy I found this thread, I am extremely happy with the results I got with Begginers Delight.

Thanks again!

B.4.D.R.U.G.S

Basically 4 Dependable Results Under Gazing Situations.

.....getting personal;

4 B.A.B.I.E.S.

Basically Anemic Beginners Initial Economical Screen

......and some somewhat controversial fare;

BADAABOOM
Bland And Dull Attempt At Opening One's Mind

I.G.O.R

I'm Getting Officially Reamed

Something just occurred to me and why S_I_M_P_L_E neutral gray and poly is such a hard item to name and or offer for consumption by the masses. The sales force never stick around after the BigSwifty like post is made.

By the way welcome to the forum BigSwifty and thank you for making your unbiased post. That 200 hours will be 2000 before you know it and I'm willing to bet you and your guests will still be amazed at that time.

I made a post a very long time ago that there are a lot of people that want to come here learn some things make a screen and enjoy. And Best is in the eyes of the beholder. I seriously think that you could spend a couple years tinkering with screens and end up going back to this screen for the visual simplicity it provides. Todd is right you are not watching the screen you are watching the image and the illusion. That's as good as it gets.

Just as sure as I am that 99% of the people making a BigSwifity formally Biglyle post tend to vanish shortly into movie viewing, I'm equally as sure every time such a post is made it will be followed by a mo-bedder shouda couda wooda disparaging post.

Enjoy your screen and projector and theater and whatever you do don't let on that it was simple to do.

..........but then your likely to get infected with a bug.....yes?

Many applications have shared the 'open window' effect, including both white and gray, metallic and non- metallic varieties. It's nothing new to painting screens (MMud-MMud-SE had it in spades)...or exceptionally necessary really unless your up very close, just a end result to using a decent paint and good technique. Desirable yes....but not a Deal maker, or in absence thereof...a Deal breaker.

Nor does such hold exclusivity in being color neutral. It can do, and only does 'so much", and for some that's fine. But for those who want and need more, it's not going to suffice.

Without a doubt, if a Noob was given the opportunity to choose "in person" between two completed Screens of identical shades, one advanced and one simple, be it in the dark or in the light, the decision is gonna favor the advanced application 95% of the time.

But that is hardly ever the case, even with such advice given, to have the majority of Noobs spend time to try, or even want to go to such trouble, and so the application herein is at least something better than white paint.....but not hardly to be construed as being "the best" possible choice should reasons and circumstances dictate the real and valid necessity of needing a Gray screen.

Unless one comes up with continual ideas to keep such an application in front of seeking members, the resulting lack of interest isn't really an offshoot of it not being a good choice or effective application, but more that it just lacks the extra oomph that many desire and need.

We all know that, as do you. It all seems a bit silly to be hyping this thread and this application by continual jesting and such.....it's simply just an exercise in having fun with names...not being really serious about achieving extra levels of performance if one doesn't need to be..

That seems to describe it well.

N.A.T.S.O.B.O.K.

Not A Truly Serious Offering But O.K.

The same can be said of using UPW/Poly. Done right, it should outperform using a White alone. But not enough to make one need to change his pants. Butt....add some White Pearl Finish to the equation and you just might have to excuse yourself...... .