PANASONIC V10 Picture Settings ONLY - Page 40

Ok, "All plasma displays have a glow" period! You want complete inky blacks, CRT is about the only thing that can do that.

Should I update my v10 with thx issue via internet or via sd card ? And does that update fix thx issue or should I schedule an appointment with panasonic to fix that

Metered results of new a-board values on an original a-board found here

Gamma= Not adjustable in THX

Latest recalibration to fix THX gamma
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1278


I have an ORIGINAL A board.
The NEW a board SM values are

CINEMA Warm (THX) - User Menu= Warm2
New Aboard..Calibrated......Offset from NEW A board values
R-CUT 80.....83...............+3
G-CUT 80.....80................0
B-CUT 80.....7F...............-1
R-DRV FC.....FC................0
G-DRV F0.....EA...............-6
B-DRV A1.....AD.............+12

Calibration was done against an ORIGINAL A-Board.


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Color Deltas


Gamma is not great for me when I set it with a pluge. On Custom, its almost perfect as you can see from the graph below.

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Gamma varies on the size. On larger sizes, it appears to be MID that is the best. On the 50's its Normal unless there are exceptions.

You FIRST need to apply the SM offsets for Warm in the SM. Then use the Custom PRO Settings as shown below with Warm2 selected in the User menu.

Gamma = Normal
All other settings off.
HD Size 2

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Color Temperature POST SD

POST SD DeltaE's for Primaries and Secondaries

I've tweaked it a little more. My signature should take you to the latest.

Audiotitis,
I can't see any pictures.

Audiotitus,

my sm values for warm are as follows

warm
RGB Cut
Red = 80
Green = 80
Blue = 80

RGB Drv
Red = Fc
Green = fb
Blue = A4

My A board was not replaced but my numbers are in the ball park of new board numbers


I believe your custom calibration may work with my numbers
Question should I just add enough offset to reach your custom numbers or something else? Im aware that I have to also do the pro offsets and user settings

It will be somewhat of a crap shoot because I don't have a meter.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I can only offer my non-expert opinion. I tried calibrating Custom a few days ago using just the PRO settings. I had to drive high Blue by 30 in the PRO settings. But in the SM, I had to do it by 52. The other changes were somewhat close across PRO & SM. I would have expected the SM also to be in the 30'ish range but it was clearly not.

For Custom, the PRO settings were applied after the base SM changes were made. What I would suggest is you calculate the diff is offsets between your a-board/sm values and the new changes at the SM level as clicks/numbers. Then add those differences to the PRO settings for custom. At the PRO settings level, changes must be made for Warm2.

The other option is - IF your SM values are really close, dial my exact SM values in at the SM level for Warm, then go to the PRO settings and dial in those exact offsets as well. Test using the same content for both options and see what appears more realistic to you.

If you're original SM values were in the ballpark of the new a-board values, were you experiencing the greenish cast in THX too ?

Audiotitis,
I'll try your exact final SM settings after work tonight and report back.

My 65V10 is an August Build. I remember verifying that it had the 1.24 firmware. Back around Christmas I was trying to show someone how the set could show You Tube. Everytime I tried to go to that screen the set would try and upgrade the firmware. Finally I let it do this and then the set allowed me to easily go to You Tube. I did not notice any changes in the screen. I do not believe I had a problem in THX.

Recently I decided to try the update that is posted (link) on this thread. I formated the 1gb SD chip via win 7 using fat32 and then loaded the four files on it. I followed the instructions and used the sm. When it was done I went back to check against my BB Calibration results for Custom and Studio Ref (Cinema). The Cinema used for night was unchanged, however the custom used for the day had been changed. I also checked to see if any changes had occured on the firmware or other parameters. Nothing changed that I could see. Perhaps the changes that I see in Custom occured back around Christmas time when I allowed the TV to update itself.

The changes I see for Custom are:

Former Calibrated After update
Warm Warm
Red Drive F8 F8
Blue Drive 88 84
Green Drive BD BD
Red Cut 82 84
Blue Cut 81 82
Green Cut 80 80

So it doesn't seem like big changes. As I stated the Studio Ref (Cinema) did not change. Probably the 1.28 I had from Christmas did the changes and this recent update just repeated everthing. I still love the picture on this TV

Manny

Has anyone noticed that in a completely darkened room (or even mostly darkened), on the 65V10 with a solid black screen (I use the black break in slide), in Vivid mode the screen drops to almost pitch black. In any other mode, the screen is a dark gray. This is on a brand new Jan. 2010 build panel. Why would this be? Also, I have a stuck pixel that appears to be red, I'm not really sure on the color. I have noticed that when I move to either side of it or up and down, depending on where I stand it disappears. Does this mean that it is a sub-pixel? If so what is the difference and does it have a chance of going away? I had a solid red one on my Kuro that did not disappear from different angles like this one does and it went away at around the 500 hour mark. Any input on these issues would be greatly appreciated.

The vivid mode deal is normal. Basically the tv shuts off to give the infinite black that they advertise.

That is an interesting answer. How do you know this? Where exactly did you get this information from if you don't mind me asking?

My 65v10 October build has gone past the 1100 hour mark and it needed Re-Calibration. At the 762 mark there were no changes needed so it is interesting to note that this additional aging period required some re-calibration.

You can view the 1100 THX and 1100 Custom Calibration reports here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post17704642 The New Service Menu Adjustments and User Menu Settings are at at the top of each PDF Report.

I can state that the SM adjustments for the drv settings change quite a bit from the 762 hr to the 1126 hr of use. Maybe due to the voltage increases that were suppose to happen.

The good news is that the black level is still at 0.0087 and did not change, if you have been following that issue at all.

Mike

Getting THX fixed is a big deal (since well, its supposed to be THX Certified and promised at purchased time)...

but really, getting Vivid to be a usable mode -- is on the top of my wish list.

Stop the black crush... drop the ftl's down a bit... that's all I ask.

Thanks Mike! Did you happen to notice any change with the naked eye at all sometime between 762 and 1126?

I am not sure exactly where it is written but it has been talked about in the blacks turning gray thread. It's IMO an advertising gimmick the same way manuf measure contrast ratios. They measure black with the tv off and of course that measurement is prob not measurable with the meters that most people on here have. That's one way they get 30,000:1 contrast ratios.
If you look on the panny website for any of the 09 plasmas they advertise 600hz subdrive for smoother fast moving scenes. There is an asterisk next to the statement which says "cinema mode only". They advertise all these great features that do not exist in all viewing modes. What is cinema mode? Is it THX or studio ref mode which is on the v10s?
Hope that answers your question.

Mike what changed here above after 1100hr w/out going into SM menu

It's amazing how much your Blue Drv values changed.

If it's due to the voltage, any reason you think only Blue changed so much?

No, the change must have been very gradual over that period. To tell you the truth, after the adjustments, it does not look much different than before. Still looks excellent. I am noticing the slight reduction in luminance (based on re-calibration adjustments) from the original THX calibtration, hopefully I won't loose any more as the hours accumulate.

Mike

I only use the SM adjustments, so my W/B User Pro settings are at 0. If you are using my original Pro User W/B settings, I don't think there would be much change, if anything one or two clicks to the minus for the W/B b High.

Probably, won't take the time to go back and figure out the Pro User W/B settings, as I just don't use them any more.

Mike

For THX, it was primarily the Blue Drv, but for Custom it was all the Drvs although not as much. My guess is the extra voltage effected the high end of the Luminance curve and it had to be reduced to get the proper grayscale adjustment. Unfortunately in the process to get the correct grayscale, I lost a bit of overall luminance. I can probably fiddle with the brightness and contrast a little more and get it back, just don't have the time right now.

Mike

Probably won't change much anyway. Like you said, it looks pretty much the same as it did before. My constant fiddling just seems to put me back to my original offsets anyway, lol.

I'm glad your blacks are still around 0.008 ftL. Mine measure the same on the i1...just hoping it stays put.

Just got an email from Panny saying that although my 1.28 A-board replacement seemed to fix the THX issue (I think my PQ's are great), I still need to have a service tech come to my house to do a THX update. Maybe there is more to this issue than meets the eye?

Could be. It could also be that there are actually changes that are diff from what is on your board. Or they want to make sure that if they push this f/w on new a-boards via Vieracast, that it won't break anything. Guess we'll never know. Post back and let us know what happens. Keep some material handy to do a regression eyeball test. For Donnymac's set and mine, both our THX gammas are below 2.2 and there is nothing we can do about it.

they need to update the PEAKS values...

obviously PEAKS values are not part of the A-board or the 1.28 firmware.
And why all of us who updated to 1.28 never saw the green go away ;-)

At least that's what we can infer from the brief technicians page.

I have a new aboard and used the same THX firmware that everyone else has been flashing with, from the panny website that was taken down. Nothing has changed anything on my TV. I don't think there is anything different from what the techs are flashing with compared to what we all did. People have stated techs had the exact same instructions that were posted on the web when they came to their house.
I still have an open case # and have never been contacted by panny.

Certainly will let everyone know the outcome of the visit. Hate to hear that your gamma's have dropped. The only way I'll know if things are different, is by doing as you suggest...keep some eyeballed reference material as I don't have any meters.

However, I do have some kind of relationship with the visiting tech (btw, he is a special panny service rep who I have spoken to before and he just loves to give out as much info as possible), and I will try to get him to allow me to copy down the pre and post SM settings. By allow, I mean for him to go intot he SM for me as I haven't taught myself to do it yet.

EDIT
Hey Jackel, as we have the same sets and have had our boards changed at about the same time, I'm surprised that P hasn't contacted you yet. Maybe you should ask them what's going on re techs to house even though everything seemed to be OK after board replacement and fw update.

Just got this email back after I inquired why a home tech visit even though my replacement A-board seems to be working so well.

"Thanks for the reply. We apologize for any inconvenience. We are checking
to make sure that your plasma is operating properly. If you find that the
THX issue recurs, please contact our Panasonic Customer Call Center at
(800)211-7262..."

I think the "new" issue is, may be, that the THX issue can reoccur if certain adjustments aren't made via SM setting.

flycaster,

You should pick this guys brain and find out what he knows about the rising black levels