PANASONIC V10 Picture Settings ONLY - Page 42

Been a long time lurker, finally got my 58v10 delivered last night. I understand that you can set custom settings for each of the 4 HDMI inputs. Lets assume that I'll need three of the 4 inputs: BD player, Comcast HD box, and PS3. I understand the video aspect of things. But how is everyone hooking up their sound to their AVRs or amps for surround/2-channel?

I run HDMI from the component to my AVR (Pio SC-25) then using the two HDMI outputs on the SC-25 I run HDMI to HMDI 1 and HDMI 2 on my 65V10. HDMI 1 set for my BD player and HDMI 2 set for my Dish VIP 722k with each input calibrated accordingly.

AFAIK, you're the first one to report still seeing it after the non-Vieracast 1.28 firmware update. I don't want to say you're imagining it because you could be having a problem.


And you also want to be be prepared to read this thread
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1167339

And that goes for the rest of you newbies who just got a V10/Z1/G10 or any 11/12G panel. Not sure about the Z1. Very very likely it will also suffer the same fate.

Thanks for the constructive advice. Must be hard living life with the glass half empty.

Same expert who can't even load the fw properly on an sd disk.

I updated the firmware to my Z1 yesterday and am getting a totally different result.

The blacker-than-black bars still do not show up, but I no longer have to crank the brightness up to get the proper black levels. And what appeared to be the dreaded green/yellow cast in THX mode is gone.

Right now I am very pleased with the picture. After I have gotten a chance to break this in a bit I will do a real calibration, but for now it looks pretty darned good!

New owner here, delivered today with a Jan '10 build date and so far this set is B-eautiful...I'm in awe of it. )

I did not direct the newbie comment against you although it might have seemed that way. It was meant for people who are just getting their sets and are not aware of the problem. I tried to help you with information and you responded with sarcarsm. Wow. Ok.

If you're Z1 has the same black level prob, I hope you can live with your glass half full.


I never said I was an expert. What is your problem ? Do you have any idea why it would not work. You don't. So don't post your stupid comments unless you know why the SD failed to boot. I was trying to help pmd918 and you felt you had to add your 2 cents. Were you able to help figure out why my SD card would not boot ? I don't think so.

The SD card reader on my HP laptop had some problems with the Texas Instruments Media drivers with conflicts in the drivers for the SDHC version. It worked with the same SD card when it was reformatted using the SAME formatting s/w and the same files on a different machine. Reading the boot sector on the SD card with before and after seemed to indicate the FAT to be the same. So it was not as simple as you were trying to imply. The card was recognized by the TV as it detected any jpeg files and displayed them. But it could not read the boot sector.

Looks like you don't understand how to load files on an SD card or have reading comprehension issues as none of my posts said I did not know how to load files on an SD card. I could not care less what you think. I explained it to undo what you did with your uncalled for remark.

// end rant

OK - so let's say that I misinterpreted your comment. I apologize if that's the case.

But at that point, what was the purpose of pointing out the potential problem about the changing black levels? I already bought the TV, so I'm stuck with it either way. I suppose that if I had not known about the issue at that time, perhaps I could look for it and then call for service.

But other than that, I just didn't see anything productive about your comment other than to pour salt in a wound.

So - on to something more productive. I saw your posts on your calibration results on your V10. Can you tell me what settings you are using for Panel Brightness and Black Level? If I recall correctly, the reviews that I've read said that Panel Brightness should be set to "Low" for best results, but it seems that many are using "Mid". And I haven't seen any comments on the Black Level setting for "Light" or "Dark". I haven't played around to see how that impact the picture. I would assume that it is related to the gamma?

You misinterpreted that. I am not one of those that is going to do that and I believe most people here would congratulate you on your purchase. We are trying to keep people informed of the situation. The black thread is a very involved thread and when I saw your comments about black levels, I wanted you to be informed. That was all there was to it. What is the purpose of pointing it out - All of us are owners of the sets and yet that thread is alive. That should answer that question. I feel the same for an owner of an S1 as well as for a Z1. The more people complain, the better potential for productivity may arise.

Panel brightness seems to vary on size & perhaps build daet from what we have been seeing. Some were measuring closer to 2.2 on Gamma=Mid, For 50V10's, its Gamma=Normal. Panel Brightness=MID (prob for most sets). Black level of Dark crushes detail on the V10 and light is the recommended setting.

HTH.

Thanks - I'm going to put another week's worth of hours on my set and then do a calibration. Thanks for the help.

I wanted to put my OTB RGB graph (before) and the corrected RGB graph with what offsets were done to fix them.

[I have also done a before and after in the A-Board thread using those A-board values]

Then compare it using someone else's 50V10 with build dates before June 2009 and after August 2009. If anyone has such a set and has measured OTB RGB graphs, please pm me with a link to the said graph.

Mention your

1. build date
2. pref approx hrs of usage at measurement
3. Picture mode
4. Before RGB image URL
5. Offsets
6. After RGB Image URL

I will then update this post to try and visually demonstrate why I think offsets are not working for some. I personally believe (as I am trying to prove/disprove) that all sets come out with different RGB's and some have more significant deviation than the mean. Mine was significantly off for blue. On some sets, if my offsets were used, it could make theirs look too blue. The offsets between Cool > Normal > Warm should be the same factor on all sets. But the base for (some of ?) these sets *seem* to have variations that matter.

I want to show ONLY OTB RGB graphs and TEXT values of their offsets required to correct them to observe what the pattern is.


Audiotitis
-------------------
50V10, June 2009, FW 1.28, Measurement at approx 900 hrs.

Custom RGB OTB


R Cut = 80 Orig = 80 [Delta = 0]
G Cut = 7F Orig = 80 [Delta = -1]
B Cut = 7F Orig = 80 [Delta = -1]

R Drv = FC Orig = FC [Delta = 0]
G Drv = E6 Orig = EA [Delta = -4]
B Drv = B4 Orig = 80 [Delta = +52]

Custom RGB Corrected

Does anyone know if the "Panasonic" emblem on the front of this display is just an applique/sticker? It kind of feels like it..I hate it...can it be removed?

Perhaps, but you will lose 29.8776% of it's black level and throw off the THX mode.

Ask in the Panasonic V10 thread. This is related to settings.

It can be removed like this

HA! They still must be playing that Michael McDonald concert.

Still better than shooting you co-workers

My wife and I just received our 58 inch V10 today. We watched some movies on Cable. One movie looked great "Mr. Deeds" and the other movie "Meet the Parents" looked kind of flat (no where near as contrasty as "Mr. Deeds"). Those were 1080i. Then we watched "The Hurt Locker" on Blu-ray. That looked great. All in Standard Mode.

If breaking the set in takes 100 hours or so then I won't be able to play with the settings for quite a while. We watch no more than 4 hours of TV on our days off.....and very little TV on the days we work.

I'm new to all this. I am definitely curious as to whether the tweaks mentioned here in this thread would improve things.

Great forum. Great thread.

Thanks for all the superb info.

Are you a jerkoff in real-life or is it just a internet thing that helps you feel like a man?

Do tell...I'm waiting with baited breath to hear your scathing reply.

I can't say I know if this can be removed or not but if you want to give it a try, get some small diameter monofilament fishing line and get it under the corner of it and work in underneath it, if it can be removed the line will break the sealant; if not, the line itself won't scratch or damage anything.

Although I have not gone into the SM, I am using Mike's non-SM settings. I use Normal most of the time as I find that it gives deeper colors than Mid. Mid does seem brighter, but with that there is a trade off in "depth of picture." However, during the day, Mid may be a little better beccause it appears brighter.

Yes, agreed!

if i hear yamo be there one more time, I'm gonna yamo burn this place to the ground

Maybe I should have put a smilie at the end of that.

Hi Mike been away for a while but I noticed you recalibrated at 1100 hours. I have noticed that your Custom Chart shows RGB Drv Blue = -21 but if you see your post below it probably should be +21 correct? Please let me know!

You are correct, it should be + 21. I have made the correction in the PDF calibration report to reflex the correction. I think as I am getting older I starting to get dyslectic.

Thanks for catching the error.

Mike

Does anyone know if the 65 V10 will do 1:1 pixel mapping with a 5000 series ATI video card over HDMI? Will I be able to set the resolution to 1900x1080(1080P) without loosing all of the edges of the screen or will I be forced to resize the desktop of my htpc so that it fits the screen properly.

Thanks.

Works fine with my old NVidia 7900GT card with no over/underscan if I set it to HD Size 2. I'm almost positive it would work for you.

what resolution and frequency do you have it set to? every time I try to change it to 1900x1080 @ 60 hz the pictures is all crazy and distorted.

Anyone think we should start a new settings forum?
I know there is an older v10 settings forum but almost all of it is a before Panasonic came out with the latest fix. Therefore only those that have fixed displays should post theirs. A fixed display is any panasonic display with the latest firmware or any display that never had an issues to begin with.

The basic info with need is
1)Model
2)Size
3)Manufactor date
4)Settings
5) if you know your SM Values Pre calbration and post calibration