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PANASONIC V10 Picture Settings ONLY - Page 44

post #1291 of 1489
Quote:
Originally Posted by robi1138 View Post

My 0 IRE brightnees jumps at 76 which is almost the same as your 72. I wouldn't set it right at the point that the 1% window appears but not more than a few clicks higher either.

What disc are you guys using for this?
post #1292 of 1489
Quote:
Originally Posted by gov View Post

what disc are you guys using for this?

avs-hd
post #1293 of 1489
Quote:
Originally Posted by robi1138 View Post

avs-hd

Ok thanks. Why is it when I pull up the window patterns I get nothing but a black screen?
post #1294 of 1489
The issue originally was how to be sure that there is no black crush at the very lowest IRE levels.

I am not so sure that increasing the brightness until the 1% IRE window is apparent is a legitimate way to secure the definitive brightness setting.

In my room, in THX mode, with ambient light control I cannot see the 1% window (although I sometimes think I can!) However my Eye-1 meter detects the one step increment from 0 to 1 so I know it is happening. However at 2% the window is clearly evident.

For what its worth... using AVIA and the AVS disc I found it necessary to have 2 or 3 more brightness clicks in order to perceive the brighter moving bar (even in a totally darkened room.) I did not wait for my eyes to adapt to darkness prior to performing the test.

It would follow then that adjusting brightness via a probe is the only accurate approach.

At this point we must confront the reality of the situation... when watching a BluRay in normal viewing conditions just how accurately must one set the black level in order to achieve satisfactory shadow presentation.
post #1295 of 1489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gov View Post

Ok thanks. Why is it when I pull up the window patterns I get nothing but a black screen?

That's the first screen...0 IRE
post #1296 of 1489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Smith View Post

The issue originally was how to be sure that there is no black crush at the very lowest IRE levels.

I am not so sure that increasing the brightness until the 1% IRE window is apparent is a legitimate way to secure the definitive brightness setting.

In my room, in THX mode, with ambient light control I cannot see the 1% window (although I sometimes think I can!) However my Eye-1 meter detects the one step increment from 0 to 1 so I know it is happening. However at 2% the window is clearly evident.

For what its worth... using AVIA and the AVS disc I found it necessary to have 2 or 3 more brightness clicks in order to perceive the brighter moving bar (even in a totally darkened room.) I did not wait for my eyes to adapt to darkness prior to performing the test.

It would follow then that adjusting brightness via a probe is the only accurate approach.

At this point we must confront the reality of the situation... when watching a BluRay in normal viewing conditions just how accurately must one set the black level in order to achieve satisfactory shadow presentation.

As far as I'm concerned, shadow detail is most important in dark, low contrast scenes...not exclusively, but more important. A camera filming a night scene with bright highlights usually doesn't have its gain turned up so high to pick up a ton of details because this would introduce video noise (see the second to last image of the fountain on the DVE disc in the a/v demo section) onto the image. For there to be real detail in dark scenes, there cannot be much other light on the image. If there was, your pupils would close off a bit to accomodate that light and you wouldn't see a ton of detail anyway. So setting brightness a few clicks above where the 1% window becomes visible ensures the lowest possible MLL and detail in the shadows.

You could actually set it a bit higher because the MLL doesn't rise till about 10 clicks above this point anyway. However, Panasonic plasmas hold black level very, very well with varying image brightness so you can generally use the 1% white window (unlike on my old CRT).
post #1297 of 1489
I know it's been said before, but CO1's 40.21 ftl daylight setting is amazing! At least 200 hours are needed before reaping the benefits!
post #1298 of 1489
Perfectly put!!! I agree.
post #1299 of 1489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Smith View Post


Perfectly put!!! I agree.

Thank you
post #1300 of 1489
Quote:
Originally Posted by xzolian View Post

Stop worrying about burn-in...
http://hdguru.com/plasma-tv-burn-in-fact-or-myth/826/


So, I've owned my 54V10 for 3 months now. I did the whole initial 120 hours of playing the CD of color images, etc. Everything has been great on the TV ever since. Yesterday, however, with the release of Battlefield: Bad Company 2, I connected my PC to the TV through the receiver, switched to Game mode on the TV for the contrast, and played 6 hours last night and probably another 5 hours tonight.

After switching back to an all white screen, I can clearly see in the bottom right corner of my screen the numbers from my in-game HUD. In the game, it is bright white numbers against a black background, and out of game, against a white background, I can see what looks like feint, grey HUD numbers.

I have run the scroller for a few times, but that has not helped. People may like to say these days that it is not an issue, but it's obvious thie problem still exists.
post #1301 of 1489
Quote:
Originally Posted by geronimosan View Post

So, I've owned my 54V10 for 3 months now. I did the whole initial 120 hours of playing the CD of color images, etc. Everything has been great on the TV ever since. Yesterday, however, with the release of Battlefield: Bad Company 2, I connected my PC to the TV through the receiver, switched to Game mode on the TV for the contrast, and played 6 hours last night and probably another 5 hours tonight.

After switching back to an all white screen, I can clearly see in the bottom right corner of my screen the numbers from my in-game HUD. In the game, it is bright white numbers against a black background, and out of game, against a white background, I can see what looks like feint, grey HUD numbers.

I have run the scroller for a few times, but that has not helped. People may like to say these days that it is not an issue, but it's obvious thie problem still exists.

It should disappear after a few hours of normal viewing.
post #1302 of 1489
geronimo,
try running the break in slides for 10 or 15 mins.

I agree, the anti-image scrollbar doesnt work all the time.
post #1303 of 1489
I've been waiting for a tech to come out and install the THX update for about a month. So I decided to call Panny support and see what's up with the wait. Now they've decided to mail out an SD card with the update, anyone else been told to install the fix themselves?

54v10
May 09' Build
post #1304 of 1489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Choyt80 View Post

I've been waiting for a tech to come out and install the THX update for about a month. So I decided to call Panny support and see what's up with the wait. Now they've decided to mail out an SD card with the update, anyone else been told to install the fix themselves?

54v10
May 09' Build

depending on where you live may be the reason.
i've been told there was a newer thx fix for people that had aboards replaced. when the tech came out with it, it was the same old thx fix we all have. i called and they refused to send it to me directly.
whatever you get, please post what files are on the card and the date modifed of the files before you update your tv.
of course if you don't want to wait you can just download the files and instructions yourself. they are on the top of page 50 of the THX fix thread.
post #1305 of 1489
Thanks Jackal! I wish I knew about Pg 50. I will look into the dates it was modified. I also wanted to try and see if I can save it elsewhere and possibly share. I'm ready to get this taken care of so I can bust into that service menu and apply those mjmorrison settings! I'll keep everyone posted!
post #1306 of 1489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Choyt80 View Post

Thanks Jackal! I wish I knew about Pg 50. I will look into the dates it was modified. I also wanted to try and see if I can save it elsewhere and possibly share. I'm ready to get this taken care of so I can bust into that service menu and apply those mjmorrison settings! I'll keep everyone posted!

when the tech came to my house i just grabbed the sd card from him, popped it into my laptop and looked at the dates modified. they were 10/22/2009 if i can recall correctly. i sent the guy packing without touching my tv as I already had those files downloaded.
if there is something newer out, please let us know in the THX thread as well or IM me.
post #1307 of 1489
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackal2001 View Post

when the tech came to my house i just grabbed the sd card from him, popped it into my laptop and looked at the dates modified. they were 10/22/2009 if i can recall correctly. i sent the guy packing without touching my tv as I already had those files downloaded.
if there is something newer out, please let us know in the THX thread as well or IM me.

That is the date of the THX fix that everyone has applied with success, so if you have the THX issue you may want to get the tech back.

Why it took them from October to February to get it to us is another question.
post #1308 of 1489
Okay, I'll let you know if it's a different date. You would think the Denver metro area would have enough techs to come out and do the install. Now I'm glad they're sending me the card so I can copy it!
post #1309 of 1489
Quote:
Originally Posted by dpjb View Post

That is the date of the THX fix that everyone has applied with success, so if you have the THX issue you may want to get the tech back.

Why it took them from October to February to get it to us is another question.

i don't think i have the thx issue as i had my aboard replaced which fixed the issue. i also applied the thx firmware to see if it did change anything and it didn't.
customer service insisted there is a newer thx fix for those that had aboards replaced and did send a card out to a tech. when he came out they sent him the exact same files that are on page 50. When i called and told them that, they still insisted there was a newer fix and they would resend it. I told them not to bother and quit wasting my time. i was pissed scheduling techs and taking time off from work because they don't know what they are doing. i also wanted them to send me a card directly but they refused.
post #1310 of 1489
Can anybody please point me in the right direction in what settings I should be using on my new V10 for break in?
post #1311 of 1489
Any of the settings noted previously will work. Just use what looks good to your eyes. Watch the black bars with SD material for first 100 hours and mix up the viewing material.
post #1312 of 1489
Quote:
Originally Posted by tboo View Post

Can anybody please point me in the right direction in what settings I should be using on my new V10 for break in?

Im using settings from tweaktv.com (?) but I prefer the studio-ref or THX settings, myself.
post #1313 of 1489
I'm really enjoying my picture with the Black Level on dark! I find it hard to see another TV available with black levels that dark. I have around 1,500 hours into the picture!

Does anyone know or have experienced losing any other aspects of the picture quality having the Black Level on Dark?
post #1314 of 1489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Choyt80 View Post

I'm really enjoying my picture with the Black Level on dark! I find it hard to see another TV available with black levels that dark. I have around 1,500 hours into the picture!

Does anyone know or have experienced losing any other aspects of the picture quality having the Black Level on Dark?

Ya it crushes detail on dark scenes. No one here recommends running it on dark. The correct setting is LIGHT.
post #1315 of 1489
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackal2001 View Post

Ya it crushes detail on dark scenes. No one here recommends running it on dark. The correct setting is LIGHT.

Thanks Jackal,
I figured I'd be losing some detail. I haven't witnessed a Blu-Ray with the setting but sports like basketball, and baseball look great so it might not be noticable in sports programming.
post #1316 of 1489
I just decided to play some Pandora via the Vieracast. Looked up and it seemed like my black levels had risen dramatically! I went to the menu and it appears that there is a separate CUSTOM setting for Vieracast which is different from your normal CUSTOM setting. I hadn't noticed this before and hadn't noticed anyone else mentioning this. I cranked the brightness and contrast down and it looks much better (not that there is a real reason to WATCH). It has a cool "screen saver" when it kicks in.
post #1317 of 1489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Choyt80 View Post

Thanks Jackal,
I figured I'd be losing some detail. I haven't witnessed a Blu-Ray with the setting but sports like basketball, and baseball look great so it might not be noticable in sports programming.

You're losing a LOT of detail...and you're not lowering the MLL at all so running it at dark is completely worthless.
post #1318 of 1489
Just had my 58V10 dropped off yesterday and want to start with the break in slides. Is it okay to keep the display running a continuous 120 hours with the slides or should i power down for a certain period of time?
post #1319 of 1489
Wow - glad to see this thread is still going strong. I just upgraded my 58V10 to the 65V10 (and was able to get full credit for the 58!).

One thing I noticed right away was that colors & overall brightness were better on the 65 vs. the 58 right out of the box. I'm sure this was due to the build date (Feb-10 vs. Oct-09) instead of screen size. Perhaps Panasonic has implemented some changes in newer units?

Anyway, I'm looking forward to using the settings from this thread. I've mainly used CUSTOM settings for all viewing, but found I liked Game mode for sports. And I'd like to give the new, brighter THX mode a try. Can someone post their favorite THX and GAME settings? Thanks a bunch.
post #1320 of 1489
hi,
Is there a way in the service menu to adjust black level setting? Dark setting crushes blacks way to much, light is obviously better. But if there was another level I think that would be just right. I have uverse and get a lot of black crush. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Blake
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