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Onkyo TX-NR807 Official Thread - Page 68

post #2011 of 5396
Well, I just pulled the trigger and bought the tx-nr807 I hope I'm happy with my choice. I could not justify the 3007 or 1007 which was the org. receivers I wanted. I don't think I will ever use the seven channels the 807 has. I'm replacing my Integra DTR-7 that I currently have, it's old and showing it's age and I hope the 30watts I gain plus all the new features like HDMI, Dolby Digital TrueHD, DTS-HD Master Audio are a nice upgrade, I think I'm looking forward to the Audyssey room-correction and equalization the most. I do have a question or two.

1. Should I upgrade the firmware as soon as I open it?
2. Whats the best way to pass my directv and Blu-ray
3. Does this model have a 6 ohm switch or does it automatically switch
I run Definitive Technology speakers that are suppose to be 6 ohms.

Thanks
post #2012 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by integra1972 View Post

Well, I just pulled the trigger and bought the tx-nr807 I hope I'm happy with my choice. I could not justify the 3007 or 1007 which was the org. receivers I wanted. I don't think I will ever use the seven channels the 807 has. I'm replacing my Integra DTR-7 that I currently have, it's old and showing it's age and I hope the 30watts I gain plus all the new features like HDMI, Dolby Digital TrueHD, DTS-HD Master Audio are a nice upgrade, I think I'm looking forward to the Audyssey room-correction and equalization the most. I do have a question or two.

1. Should I upgrade the firmware as soon as I open it?
2. Whats the best way to pass my directv and Blu-ray
3. Does this model have a 6 ohm switch or does it automatically switch
I run Definitive Technology speakers that are suppose to be 6 ohms.

Thanks

30watts gain?
807 Five channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
0.1% distortion at 105.5 watts
1% distortion at 122.0 watts
post #2013 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by integra1972 View Post

Well, I just pulled the trigger and bought the tx-nr807 I hope I'm happy with my choice. I could not justify the 3007 or 1007 which was the org. receivers I wanted. I don't think I will ever use the seven channels the 807 has. I'm replacing my Integra DTR-7 that I currently have, it's old and showing it's age and I hope the 30watts I gain plus all the new features like HDMI, Dolby Digital TrueHD, DTS-HD Master Audio are a nice upgrade, I think I'm looking forward to the Audyssey room-correction and equalization the most. I do have a question or two.

1. Should I upgrade the firmware as soon as I open it?
2. Whats the best way to pass my directv and Blu-ray
3. Does this model have a 6 ohm switch or does it automatically switch
I run Definitive Technology speakers that are suppose to be 6 ohms.

Thanks

1 yes BUT read the instructions VERY carefully , I myself haven't done mine yet ......
2 HDMI input every thing is BEST !
3 it has a 4 ohm & a 6 ohm or more setting covers 8 well as mine are 8's
do all the settings for HDMI input & output ,hardware settings set-up , audio set-up THEN run the audessey program that sets the EQ & levels , then fine tune after that
post #2014 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by DECJ View Post

Unfortunately, that 200 mV/470 ohm output spec for the 807 is for Rec Out, and not the Pre-Outs. Based on my earlier posts, Onkyo Tech Support first indicated that the output level for the Pre-Outs was "less than 1 volt but greater than 300 mV", and surprisingly that this information "was not exact". Onkyo Customer Support subsequently corrected that to 1 volt output for the Pre-Outs. However, in discussing this subject elsewhere, there are those who feel pretty confident that the output level for the Pre-Outs is likely higher than 1 volt and may in fact more closely approach 2 volts.

In any regard, I will be trying my set up both ways ... first with just the 807 directly driving all of my speakers, followed by incorporating my 2-channel amp for the RF-LF speakers, so I can decide what sounds better.

I purchase a set of Polk Lsi15 speakers that are 4 Ohm and said to be very hard to drive. Given this, I ordered a set of Outlaw monoblocks to power the Lsi15s.

Outlaw confirmed that pre out voltage needs to reach 1.7 volts to run the monoblocks at full power. They also said, that even if the 807 couldn't reach 1.7 volts, that they would be surprised if I couldn't reach my desired volume and much more (keep in mind that the monoblocks do 300 watts at 4 Ohm and my the Lsi15s max out at 250 watts, so full power isn't even an option).

So, on Saturday I got the speakers and I first ran them off the 807 (in 4 Ohm mode) without the monoblocks. I got plenty of volume and they sounded nice.

I then hooked up the monoblocks and regardless of what the pre out voltage is, Outlaw was right, I get plenty of volume, much more than anyone would ever use.

Anyway, I stand by decision to get the 807 over the 3007 as my total investment is under $1300 and I have a system capable of easily running 4 Ohm speakers.
post #2015 of 5396
Hi everybody
I just got my RC 180 installed but haven't done all the setup yet.Has anybody posted a setup guide for the 807/RC180 in layman terms simular to what Batpig has done for the Denon recievers?The manual is a little confusing in some areas and my wife and kids always want to watch the new 50 inch Panasonic plasma so I haven't had a lot of time alone with the reciever.I sure love the sound out of the box with my B & W 5.1 system but I know it can be better.

Thanks
Dave
post #2016 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by 91Booztd View Post

Lately I have been getting a "no signal" every once in a while when watching TV. It seems to happen when the show goes to a commercial and it loses signal for about 2-3 seconds and comes back. The 807 does this too when swithcing back and forth from HD to non-HD. Could this just be the same problem if the commercial is non-HD and i'm watching an HD program? Could it be that I have a 25' length of HDMI cable? It's not the biggest of deals, but can get a little annoying. Thanks.

my first thought is that you have a very long HDMI cable, and that this may be the cause of a potentially weak signal. If it was me, I would consider getting the best cable I could ... MonoPrice.com might be a good choice .... just get the best one they have. I have 2 and they are pretty nice.

anyways ..... my Sony LCD would do this sometimes to me, whereas my Panasonic just looses the "handshake" altogether at times. So on the Panasonic I switch to a different input and then go back to the input I am really using ... and suddenly it works again. That would be a long boring story if I try to explain all of that .... so ... I will spare you but back to your situation .... I think upgrading the HDMI cable may be helpful ....
post #2017 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideofpotatos View Post

Hey fellow Onkyo lovers
I am in the process of upgrading my 605 to something that has similar processing abilities and most importantly, multichannel outputs. I am running separate amps for my 5.1 setup and will only be using the avr as a pre/pro. I think I am settled on either the 707 or the 807. Since I don't plan on using the speaker level outs is there any on board feature differences between the 707 and the 807 other than the fact that there are no multichannel inputs on the 707?

Thanks for input...

I don't think there are multi-channel inputs on the 807 either. The big difference will the the Network capabilities of the 807.
post #2018 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcurry View Post

Hi everybody
I just got my RC 180 installed but haven't done all the setup yet.Has anybody posted a setup guide for the 807/RC180 in layman terms simular to what Batpig has done for the Denon recievers?The manual is a little confusing in some areas and my wife and kids always want to watch the new 50 inch Panasonic plasma so I haven't had a lot of time alone with the reciever.I sure love the sound out of the box with my B & W 5.1 system but I know it can be better.

Thanks
Dave

Hi ... in my opinion the fastest thing to do is to look at page 18 and take a look at the 5.1 set-up and make sure you have the rear surrounds hooked up in the exact correct place. This will allow the Audyssey to operate correctly. Audyssey is pretty good ... that will get things pretty close.

you may wish to see post # 1992 here ....

Is there any way you could send wife/kids out to a pizza place so you could get some peace for about an hour? Then you could really focus ... and run Audyssey, as it will need to be quiet in your room ....

hope this helps
post #2019 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by JetCat View Post

Hi ... in my opinion the fastest thing to do is to look at page 18 and take a look at the 5.1 set-up and make sure you have the rear surrounds hooked up in the exact correct place. This will allow the Audyssey to operate correctly. Audyssey is pretty good ... that will get things pretty close.

you may wish to see post # 1992 here ....

Is there any way you could send wife/kids out to a pizza place so you could get some peace for about an hour? Then you could really focus ... and run Audyssey, as it will need to be quiet in your room ....

hope this helps

Adding to this, Audyssey only took about 10 minutes using 3 listening positions. Just set up the mic at ear level in the center listening position and then plug in the mic, Audyssey setup will automatically turn on and you can just follow the on-screen prompts. Very simple. After it's done and you save, you will typically want to go to Speaker Settings and change your fronts (or any others it changed to less than 80) back to 80Hz(THX), Audyssey will always put them at there max. For example it put my fronts at 40Hz, I saved it, then went back into setup and changed them to 80Hz(THX) per the Audyssey instructions in the manual. LPC for LFE should equal the highest speaker settting (typically 80, but if you have small surrounds, maybe they can only get down to 100Hz as detected by Audyssey) otherwise you would miss out on the sound to those speakers that is between 80 and 100Hz.
post #2020 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by DECJ View Post

Unfortunately, that 200 mV/470 ohm output spec for the 807 is for Rec Out, and not the Pre-Outs. Based on my earlier posts, Onkyo Tech Support first indicated that the output level for the Pre-Outs was "less than 1 volt but greater than 300 mV", and surprisingly that this information "was not exact". Onkyo Customer Support subsequently corrected that to 1 volt output for the Pre-Outs. However, in discussing this subject elsewhere, there are those who feel pretty confident that the output level for the Pre-Outs is likely higher than 1 volt and may in fact more closely approach 2 volts.

In any regard, I will be trying my set up both ways ... first with just the 807 directly driving all of my speakers, followed by incorporating my 2-channel amp for the RF-LF speakers, so I can decide what sounds better.

I don't think the pre-out voltage is as big a deal as you think. Its just pre-gain driving the amp and can be compensated by simply increasing the output of the corresponding amps, front L&R in your case. As long as the pre-out voltage is within the same range as your amplifier input specs you should be OK. Using more (or less) efficient speakers would have a much bigger impact on the final SPL than the pre-out voltage.
post #2021 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtwhickory View Post

I don't think the pre-out voltage is as big a deal as you think. Its just pre-gain driving the amp and can be compensated by simply increasing the output of the corresponding amps, front L&R in your case. As long as the pre-out voltage is within the same range as your amplifier input specs you should be OK. Using more (or less) efficient speakers would have a much bigger impact on the final SPL than the pre-out voltage.

The key element relating to your pre-amp/pre-out voltage output versus power amp input sensitivity point is in fact the "within the same range" qualification. However, I have yet to see any hard-and-fast or even rule-of-thumb "guidelines" as to how one would define what that +/- voltage range or tolerance would be.
post #2022 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mounta1n View Post

The troubleshooting portion of the manual (not in front of me, it could have been the speakers/subwoofer manual) recommends the cheater plug as a long-term solution. The problem is that the system is already grounded somewhere else, and there is a slight voltage difference between the two grounds. A voltage difference causes current flow, and so you end up with a low-level 60Hz hum where there should be none. That is what a ground loop is. You could see which piece of equipment is the one introducing the hum, and use the cheater plug on that.

Brian S, Mounta1n and Ejobe, your suggestions worked liked a charm. Thank you very much. The problem was with my subwoofer plate amp, used the cheater on it and it worked. I am back in audio bliss. Thanks once again. Mario
post #2023 of 5396
I've had the 807 for about three weeks now. It replaces my old Denon 3801. One of the main reasons I bought it was to be able to connect my Blu-ray player, DVR and cable box with HDMI cables. The Blu-ray player and DVR work fine but when I try to connect the Time-Warner cable box, I get a message saying the the HDMI port is not available and that the HDCP authentication failed. I now have the STB connected directly to the TV (Panasonic 58" V10) with an HDMI cable for the picture and an optical cable to the 807 for the sound and it works fine, but I would really like to be able to use the Onkyo 807's HDMI connections for as much of my equipment as possible. I know that I can use component cable, but HDMI cable is so much simpler. Does anyone know of any way to solve the HDCP authentication failure problem?

Otherwise, all is well with the unit. At first I was getting some very loud clicking as the unit changed soundfields on its own, but that doesn't happen anymore and I'm not sure why. It does run pretty hot, but I have everything in an open stand and it seems to be okay. I used the Audyssey set up several times as I changed speaker configuration and it seems to do a good job. I have noticed that the center channel setting seems a little low but the separation is so good that I can still make out the dialog just fine even with loud sound effects in the surround channels. The sub-woofer level on the other hand is a tad high, but I haven't had any complaints from the neighbors yet.

There were some audio synchronization problems with a couple of recorded shows and some Netflix streaming videos. These problems have also vanished. Perhaps a break-in period was required? I have not tried updating the firmware. Everything seems to be working well so I don't want to take a chance. Besides the update seems to apply to bi-amping speakers and I am not interested in doing that.

Finally, I agree with those who say to take it slow, read and then reread the manual which I find to be pretty decent. (Much clearer than the manual on my old Denon.) So far, I am very pleased with the 807 except for the HDCP problem.
post #2024 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry110 View Post

I've had the 807 for about three weeks now. It replaces my old Denon 3801. One of the main reasons I bought it was to be able to connect my Blu-ray player, DVR and cable box with HDMI cables. The Blu-ray player and DVR work fine but when I try to connect the Time-Warner cable box, I get a message saying the the HDMI port is not available and that the HDCP authentication failed. I now have the STB connected directly to the TV (Panasonic 58" V10) with an HDMI cable for the picture and an optical cable to the 807 for the sound and it works fine, but I would really like to be able to use the Onkyo 807's HDMI connections for as much of my equipment as possible. I know that I can use component cable, but HDMI cable is so much simpler. Does anyone know of any way to solve the HDCP authentication failure problem?

Otherwise, all is well with the unit. At first I was getting some very loud clicking as the unit changed soundfields on its own, but that doesn't happen anymore and I'm not sure why. It does run pretty hot, but I have everything in an open stand and it seems to be okay. I used the Audyssey set up several times as I changed speaker configuration and it seems to do a good job. I have noticed that the center channel setting seems a little low but the separation is so good that I can still make out the dialog just fine even with loud sound effects in the surround channels. The sub-woofer level on the other hand is a tad high, but I haven't had any complaints from the neighbors yet.

There were some audio synchronization problems with a couple of recorded shows and some Netflix streaming videos. These problems have also vanished. Perhaps a break-in period was required? I have not tried updating the firmware. Everything seems to be working well so I don't want to take a chance. Besides the update seems to apply to bi-amping speakers and I am not interested in doing that.

Finally, I agree with those who say to take it slow, read and then reread the manual which I find to be pretty decent. (Much clearer than the manual on my old Denon.) So far, I am very pleased with the 807 except for the HDCP problem.

The only way to cure your problem is either using component cables or exchanging the 8300 with one that does work with HDMI. They are out there. But 8300HD boxes are notorious for not working with HDMI. If you do get one that does work with HDMi, your next experience will be with picture and audio dropouts with it. So your best choice even if you do not like it is with the component and optical connection. Or change from cable to some other provider that does work with HDMI.
post #2025 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mounta1n View Post

I'll take a stab at this.

1) From the manual, if you select 1080p as output, it will upconvert any source to 1080p, if needed. I take this to mean that any source that is already 1080p will just passthrough, with one caveat. It does seem to always have the on-screen display available in HDMI no matter which you choose (don't interpret this as it's always on, just when you adjust volume or whatever it shows up on your HDMI-connected display), so obviously it is touching the signal, but perhaps only when it needs to for the on-screen display. I will test tonight to see if BR sources still come through at 1080p/24 (as they did with PS3 connected directly) when it is set to 1080p output. I did check other sources, like Netflix streaming through PSP, and my TV saw the source as 1080p/60.

2)Haven't tried this.

3)I doubt the difference is noticeable, but let's face it, you can upconvert all you want and SD material is still going to look pretty bad on a big screen compared to Blu-ray. DVD's look alright, I notice the PQ difference right when it starts if I had previously been watching HD, but within a few minutes of the movie starting and getting into the story I usually forget about it (whereas sometimes during BD movies I sometimes find myself amazed by the PQ during the movie). I must note that I've been letting my PS3 do the upconverting though, I wonder if the Onkyo then tries to upconvert it further. That might actually be an area for big improvement, I'll try turning off the upconverting in my PS3 tonight. Anyway, if your TV is small enough, or you sit far enough away, that upconverted DVD looks just as good as BD, then you certainly aren't going to notice the difference between different high-quality upconverters like the Faroudja and Anchor Bay. I don't know what size TV or seating distance you have though.

4) I compared the 807 to the 3310 (2310 wasn't available for demo) and based on my listening and the speakers I would be using, I chose the 807 for it's detail and clarity. I didn't see the Denon doing upconversion though, it wasn't really a factor in my purchase.

Thanks for this Mounta1n! Please share with me your comments after trying with 1080p24 and onkyo upconversion then. Since I'm 4meters in front of 109" projection screen I think that quality matters in this case and everyting better should be taken into account.
post #2026 of 5396
The Time-Warner box is actually the Samsung SMT-H3090 or so it says on the outside, but I think it is basically the same as the Scientific American 8300 on the inside.

It looks as if component plus optical is my only option if I want to use the 807 for switching sources. Thanks for your help.
post #2027 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry110 View Post

The Time-Warner box is actually the Samsung SMT-H3090 or so it says on the outside, but I think it is basically the same as the Scientific American 8300 on the inside.

It looks as if component plus optical is my only option if I want to use the 807 for switching sources. Thanks for your help.

That should read Scientific Atlanta 8300, not Scientific American.
post #2028 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry110 View Post

That should read Scientific Atlanta 8300, not Scientific American.

They must have changed maunfacturers. The Scientific Atlantic 8300HD box I had was made by Motorola.
post #2029 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by osofast240sx View Post

30watts gain?
807 Five channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
0.1% distortion at 105.5 watts
1% distortion at 122.0 watts

My Integra DTR-7 was rated 105 watts five channels driven continuously into 8-ohm load. Real world rating was closer to maybe 50 watts with five channels. So I suppose I might gain more like double or (105.5 watts according to HT Mag). I suppose I should notice a little difference.
post #2030 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sitting Bull View Post

My RC 180 did the same thing with my Motorola 3416 STB, stretching my 4x3 channels on my HDTV.

I found the solution to be setting the RC 180 to simply pass the HDMI signal through without upscaling it to 1080P.

The setting is the first in the Setup menu, the Input/Output > for the Monitor.

My Motorola 3416 produces a 1080i signal and I frankly cannot see ANY difference between that and 1080p on my Toshiba 52 inch 1080p capable HDTV. There is simply no visible interlacing at all, period!

agreed. still an annoying, what i absoutely consider, an oversight or bug however. you shouldn't have to turn off video processing for this. that's a workaround. taking a highly compressed 1080i signal and expeting a better 1080p picture would be consider magic. so yes in this case you proabably don't notice a difference but doesn't this turn off upscaling on all other interfaces where it might actually be useful?
post #2031 of 5396
I just joined the 807 owners club, although I have not had a chance to tinker with it yet, I am pleased with the sound.
I am running Monitor Audio RS series 7.1 with an SVS 20-39PC plus and a Parasound HCA-1000 powering the mains. I have not run Audyssy yet.
Any tips from owners with a similair setup appreciated

Cheers.
post #2032 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by wwojtek View Post

Thanks SittingBull. Hmm... aspect conversion (in through mode) from 4:3 to 16:9 seems like a serious signal altering to me.

Any ideas how through mode is implemented in 807? Does it affect signal framerate? Can 807 pass 1080p 24/50/60hz?

it's not what it sounds like. the 807 isn't doing the stretching. it's telling the moto to do it via hdmi control codes. really f'ing annoying.

jeszcze polska nie zginela
post #2033 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by wwojtek View Post

Thanks SittingBull. Hmm... aspect conversion (in through mode) from 4:3 to 16:9 seems like a serious signal altering to me.

Any ideas how through mode is implemented in 807? Does it affect signal framerate? Can 807 pass 1080p 24/50/60hz?

oh and yes as i understand it on 24 is that even with processing off it'll convert 23.976 sources to 24. so not entirely pass through.
post #2034 of 5396
Has anyone setup last.fm on the Onkyo? I've got the HT-RC180 and I've seen reference to streaming last.fm through this box. But don't see an option on the net setup screen. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!
post #2035 of 5396
Anyone know if discrete remote codes are available for this receiver? I have a Hamony One remote, and would like the codes, to directly program some functions.
post #2036 of 5396
I just tried my new TX-NR807 and I'm having a problem with the image out: random vertical stripes and flickering dots. I don't know if this problem was there before I upgraded the firmware (I did a firmware upgrade to: 1221-2502-0010-9120). I don't have my speakers hooked up yet so I don't know if the sound is OK.
These are the kind of images I'm getting through HDMI (my settings have it at 1080p). I've tried different cables with no difference. Has anyone seen something similar?
LL
LL
post #2037 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sshadow View Post

agreed. still an annoying, what i absoutely consider, an oversight or bug however. you shouldn't have to turn off video processing for this. that's a workaround. taking a highly compressed 1080i signal and expeting a better 1080p picture would be consider magic. so yes in this case you proabably don't notice a difference but doesn't this turn off upscaling on all other interfaces where it might actually be useful?

In my case, no. My only other HDMI device is an upscaling Pioneer DVD player that does 1080p on its own. I had to hook the Pioneer up with its component cables for a while, however, and the 180 did a very nice job of upscaling its 720p output. But I have a 52" 1080p TV and can thus see the difference ... if I sit close enough using a test pattern LOL

But for others with more devices, you are correct. Upscaling in the AVR, I guess, just shouldn't be much of a consideration in the whole scheme of things since so many DVD players already do it. And other than STBs there isn't much else to use it on. Other than maybe some of the new streaming devices, eh?

A bit frustrating, alright ...

You know, the absolutely most satisfying picture I've ever seen on my setup was a HD broadcast of "North by Northwest", the old Cary Grant/Alfred Hitchcock thriller from the late 1950s. There wasn't a lot of fast motion where the artifacts of cable compression became apparent, and the colour/sharpness was a true sight to behold. It was like stepping into a time machine and going back 50 years--the cars and trains and architecture was just so cool! I bet the uncompressed version of that one looks dynamite on Blu-Ray!!!
post #2038 of 5396
Do you guys know if the audyssey settings are followed if I am using the 807 as a pre/pro only? That is, do the settings get followed when I am using only the preouts or does audyssey only apply to the 807's onboard speaker outs?
post #2039 of 5396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideofpotatos View Post

Do you guys know if the audyssey settings are followed if I am using the 807 as a pre/pro only? That is, do the settings get followed when I am using only the preouts or does audyssey only apply to the 807's onboard speaker outs?

If you are adding an amp, after everything is connected re-run Audyssey and you will be good to go. The 807 should make an excellent pre-pro.
post #2040 of 5396
I've been looking at purchasing the 807 to replace my H/K AVR-247 but I do have a few questions.

1) Is there any handshaking issues with the HDMI that the H/K's usually have (Audio drop outs)?

2) I am running Polk RTi4 for my sides and fronts, and they are only rated at 120 Watts. I know that this receiver puts out 135 watts a channel. Listening at comfortable levels, will this blow my speakers (sorry about the newbish question. Just bought new speakers before my H/K decided to stop working)

3) Just curious on how hot this unit can get when watching movies, or even just when it is idling.

Again, thank you!
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