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Onkyo TX-NR807 Official Thread - Page 117

post #3481 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroCarFan View Post

If you push the display button at the top of the remote when using Pure Audio mode it will turn the display back on for a brief few seconds. Audyssey is not being used according to the display. Just L/R channels, and (Bi-amp) if applicable.

What Euro said...and video processing also stops to minimize system noise. Only HDMI out works when in Pure Audio.
post #3482 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideofpotatos View Post

I know this seems like a noob question but I can't figure out how to get the current volume setting of my 805 to show up on my display, I was sure I had done this before, whenever I changed the volume it popped up and then went away after a moment. I seem to remember deactivating it because I didn't like it. Now I want to put the avr out of site and use an IR repeater, but this sort of necessitates the on screen volume display. I have my "OSD" set to "on", 16:9 tv, and position to "bottom" but I get no volume display. The menus and everything are seen normally on the display I just lost track of the volume heads up. What am I missing?

I think in the 805 the OSD immediate display overlay didn't work with HDMI signals but I could be wrong.
post #3483 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by eieio View Post

kmike, et al:

i'm in a very similar position. i will consolidate my living room and my bedroom av equipment in one rack near the living room in a closet. the main two items will be the 1007 (for living room) and the 807 (for bedroom).

the bedroom is sufficiently far away that we'll likely have to use "baluns for HDMI over CAT 6" to get the signal there. i'll use a Verizon Fios TV Home Media DVR (their "whole house" dvr) for my living room, and a Verizon Fios TV HD decoder box for my bedroom (though this HD decoder box talks to the Home media DVR and can view recorded programs on it but not command it to record something). All equipment will be in the single rack in a closet near the living room.

i will have 5.1 in-wall in my bedroom, and the tv will be a Sony hung on the wall. i also will have a ceiling mounted humidity protected speaker in the bathroom of my bedroom, my thinking is that i'll get to listen to CNN while showering. well, this is exactly where kmike's situation and mine are similar - i need to find out if the Verizon HD decoder box has analog output that is "always on" so Zone 2 of the 807 can be used to power the bathroom ceiling speakers.

ugh. more research into the Verizon Fios TV HD box.

On my Scientific Atlantic cable box, the RCA audio outs are always active. The HDMI and digital outs are software menu selectable. I connect the HDMI through the receiver and also connect directly to the TV in parallel with component viceo and analog audio. This setup lets my wife avoid "the whole HT thing and that sub woofie" (hahaha, makes me LOL when I think she actually said that....she can just turn on the TV with the Time/Warner remote and listen through the TV speakers.

It's easy to check your connections....just cable the RCA's while HDMI audio is active and see if there's a signal.
post #3484 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by kmike View Post

On my Scientific Atlantic cable box, the RCA audio outs are always active. The HDMI and digital outs are software menu selectable. I connect the HDMI through the receiver and also connect directly to the TV in parallel with component viceo and analog audio. This setup lets my wife avoid "the whole HT thing and that sub woofie" (hahaha, makes me LOL when I think she actually said that....she can just turn on the TV with the Time/Warner remote and listen through the TV speakers.

It's easy to check your connections....just cable the RCA's while HDMI audio is active and see if there's a signal.

Yeah wives, they can make you laugh from time to time, but they do like to keep this stuff simple!

Thanks for the heads up about the digital signal taking priority on the Onkyo, and the suggestion about the 'active RCA' going to a different input to allow independant selection, that should work fine.

I just got back from the store with another 50' of speaker wire so I can experiment with the multi zone feature of the Onkyo...

Does the Zone 2/3 out return to active after a power cycle of the Onkyo or do you have to turn it on each time?
post #3485 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Sherwood View Post


Does the Zone 2/3 out return to active after a power cycle of the Onkyo or do you have to turn it on each time?

The front panel Zone indicator light stays lit after a Standby cycle, even stays lit if the cycle is from the "ALL OFF" button. Apparently it only drops when cycled off by itself.
post #3486 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by marlon1925 View Post

anyone please help me? whenever I play video files on my cpu which is connected to my receiver the audio keeps turning on and off, the Onk seems to search for the audio input from the HDMI connection I am using for my video card. By the way I am using rca cable connection for my sound card [on board, realtek]. Whenever I get no audio, the "HDMI" on the right side of the OSD on the receiver keeps blinking.

Is there a way to stop the receiver from searching for audio signal from the HDMI connection [connected to my video card]?

Anyone encountered similar problem?

HELP!!!


anyone please????
post #3487 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by marlon1925 View Post

anyone please????

Marlon, try posting in the HTPC forum...give specifics on your receiver model, the PC brand and model, the graphics card, etc. Those guys will know the gear better.

Here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=26
post #3488 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by kmike View Post

The front panel Zone indicator light stays lit after a Standby cycle, even stays lit if the cycle is from the "ALL OFF" button. Apparently it only drops when cycled off by itself.

That is interesting, I just tried it and it does seem to be independant of the main system, you can turn it on or off without even turning on the main receiver!

I was kind of hoping that it could be set to come on and go off with the main system as well... I am still experimenting, the volume control says it can be fixed or variable as well, this should prove interesting...
post #3489 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by marlon1925 View Post

anyone please????

Currently I have my HTPC connected to the Onlyo via HDMI (GAME) and what I did was use the SP/DIF coax out from the motherboard to provide the audio and set the audio input selection for input (GAME) in the setup menu of the Onkyo to match.

I would suggest that you have a situation where the Onkyo is looking for the audio from the HDMI, why don't you let that connection provide the audio as well?

(I may even give that a try as I think the RealTek will provide audio over the HDMI)
post #3490 of 5391
So my RC180 is on its way, ordered from Amazon(OneCall). But I am now concerned about the size and depth of this receiver and whether or not it will feet in my entertainment center(tower). The spec says 17 1/8" deep, which seems a couple inches deeper than the Pioneer I was eval'ing... My tower has about 19" and especially with the reported heat issues I am concerned that won't be enough space atfer connecting the banana cables to the back. This is going to be a stupid question but:
Can someone tell me if the 17 1/8" depth include the back of the speaker posts or if its just the dimension of the case?

If it doesn't fit into my tower I may have to return it.

Thanks.
post #3491 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmo34 View Post

So my RC180 is on its way, ordered from Amazon(OneCall). But I am now concerned about the size and depth of this receiver and whether or not it will feet in my entertainment center(tower). The spec says 17 1/8" deep, which seems a couple inches deeper than the Pioneer I was eval'ing... My tower has about 19" and especially with the reported heat issues I am concerned that won't be enough space atfer connecting the banana cables to the back. This is going to be a stupid question but:
Can someone tell me if the 17 1/8" depth include the back of the speaker posts or if its just the dimension of the case?

If it doesn't fit into my tower I may have to return it.

Thanks.

I ordered the exact same unit from the same place and my cabinet is definitely not deep enough. Luckily its open on both ends, but even then, it will have to be a good three inches from the wall to fit all the cabling. I'm pretty bummed its so deep, but there's nothing better for the money so I suggest making it work somehow.
post #3492 of 5391
I just measured my TX-NR807, which I assume is the same housing as the HT-RC180. The 17 1/8" is overall, including the binding posts.
post #3493 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmo34 View Post

So my RC180 is on its way, ordered from Amazon(OneCall). But I am now concerned about the size and depth of this receiver and whether or not it will feet in my entertainment center(tower). The spec says 17 1/8" deep, which seems a couple inches deeper than the Pioneer I was eval'ing... My tower has about 19" and especially with the reported heat issues I am concerned that won't be enough space atfer connecting the banana cables to the back. This is going to be a stupid question but:
Can someone tell me if the 17 1/8" depth include the back of the speaker posts or if its just the dimension of the case?

If it doesn't fit into my tower I may have to return it.

Thanks.

My TV stand is 20' deep with a cutout for the receiver, with a back you're gonna smash all the connections even at 20", not good especially for HDMI connectors.

The heat issue concerns come from above the unit, recommended is 8" space above the unit. I had about an inch and had to install this on the shelf above and behind my center speaker:http://www.buyextras.com/cafankitwosc.html The sides, back and front were open but the unit got so hot you couldn't leave your hand on it, now with the fans it's almost cold.

One thing I have done in racks is to remove the back where the receiver is and used black stretchable fabric thumb tacked to the back of the rack, allowed it to stick out the back and still looked like it was enclosed.

Your main concern is venting the top. I would choose a rack based on my components rather than choose my components based on my rack. But then I wouldn't use a rack at all unless it had cooling..
post #3494 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmo34 View Post

So my RC180 is on its way, ordered from Amazon(OneCall). But I am now concerned about the size and depth of this receiver and whether or not it will feet in my entertainment center(tower). The spec says 17 1/8" deep, which seems a couple inches deeper than the Pioneer I was eval'ing... My tower has about 19" and especially with the reported heat issues I am concerned that won't be enough space atfer connecting the banana cables to the back. This is going to be a stupid question but:
Can someone tell me if the 17 1/8" depth include the back of the speaker posts or if its just the dimension of the case?

If it doesn't fit into my tower I may have to return it.

Thanks.

The actual measured depth including the speaker binding posts to the front of the "chin" on the receiver door is 17 1/8". However, you'll need 18 1/2' minimum when you include the receiver power cord depth....it's a detachable cord with sturdy plug. Adding this depth also allows for HDMI connectors and banana plugs since they protrude straight back too. This added cabling depth in back should leave plenty of breathing room between the actual case and any cabinet wall....19 inches should work fine and have room for air flow.
post #3495 of 5391
Thanks kmike and EuroCarFan for your responses about the pure audio mode and volume osd. I did some more digging thru the manual and I do seem to recall coming across something that basically said the osd heads up volume setting doesn't work thru the hdmi, that seems to support what you said regarding the subject kmike, although I can't help but feel like that is a really stupid reason to not have a heads up display. But, whatever I guess...

Does anyone hear actually use pure audio mode at all? I like the idea of the avr display turning off and unused output sources being deactivated but the audyssey being turned off is a deal breaker for me, it really helps tame some of the sharp highs in my room.

Is there any difference between pure audio mode and direct mode other than the display being off or on respectively?
post #3496 of 5391
Thanks Tulpa, kmike, colour, & elixxer for the measurements and your own experiences. My current "towers" unfortunately have a wooden back which supports it, so I can't cut it out. I do have plenty of ventialtion on the sides and the front, so assuming it does fit, hopefully heat won't be an issue.
May be looking to upgrade those as well, though my initial searches lead me to believe that the depth of the receiver can be a challenge for new furniture as well. I have to contend with the Wife Acceptance Factor plus 2 young kids when choosing "furniture".
I'll wait till I get the RC180 and see how it fits into my current rack. If it doesn't I'll have to decide if I am going to buy new "furniture" or replace it for somethling like the Denon 2310(which I know has less features) but will likely meet my needs.

Thanks again for being so responsive and for your help!
jcmo
post #3497 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideofpotatos View Post

Thanks kmike and EuroCarFan for your responses about the pure audio mode and volume osd. I did some more digging thru the manual and I do seem to recall coming across something that basically said the osd heads up volume setting doesn't work thru the hdmi, that seems to support what you said regarding the subject kmike, although I can't help but feel like that is a really stupid reason to not have a heads up display. But, whatever I guess...

Does anyone hear actually use pure audio mode at all? I like the idea of the avr display turning off and unused output sources being deactivated but the audyssey being turned off is a deal breaker for me, it really helps tame some of the sharp highs in my room.

Is there any difference between pure audio mode and direct mode other than the display being off or on respectively?

Yes I almost use Pure Audio exclusively when listening to music.

I'm also with you on the direct vs pure audio mode. Still don't understand what the difference is. I haven't actually ever used direct mode though to really listen if there is a difference. The manual does a terrible job at explaining it. Anybody know?
post #3498 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmo34 View Post

Thanks Tulpa, kmike, colour, & elixxer for the measurements and your own experiences. My current "towers" unfortunately have a wooden back which supports it, so I can't cut it out. I do have plenty of ventialtion on the sides and the front, so assuming it does fit, hopefully heat won't be an issue.
May be looking to upgrade those as well, though my initial searches lead me to believe that the depth of the receiver can be a challenge for new furniture as well. I have to contend with the Wife Acceptance Factor plus 2 young kids when choosing "furniture".
I'll wait till I get the RC180 and see how it fits into my current rack. If it doesn't I'll have to decide if I am going to buy new "furniture" or replace it for somethling like the Denon 2310(which I know has less features) but will likely meet my needs.

Thanks again for being so responsive and for your help!
jcmo

I don't think it's going to make a difference how much ventilation you have on the sides, front and back, it's the top that's important. Let us know if it fits, I still say 19" is going to at least put some stress on some connections.
post #3499 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tulpa View Post

I just measured my TX-NR807, which I assume is the same housing as the HT-RC180. The 17 1/8" is overall, including the binding posts.

I checked my setup, and although I have a NR3007 the required space beyond the end of the binding posts will be about the same...

I have 4" of wire beyond the end of the binding posts, this is measured right out to the farthest wire bend and I think this is tight, I would prefer that the wire be supported by trays and the like, but that is in a perfect install (the next incarnation, I hope!).

You could go tighter then this but it will require a lot of care and wire management, possibly right angle plugs and very flexible cables. I have some Monoprice HDMI cable that is so stiff that it barely makes the 4" restriction.

But as the saying goes, "where there is a will there is a way", my recommendation stands at a minimum of 4" past the binding posts but your desire to make this work will determine what you decide.
post #3500 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Sherwood View Post


You could go tighter then this but it will require a lot of care and wire management, possibly right angle plugs and very flexible cables. I have some Monoprice HDMI cable that is so stiff that it barely makes the 4" restriction.

But as the saying goes, "where there is a will there is a way", my recommendation stands at a minimum of 4" past the binding posts but your desire to make this work will determine what you decide.

I checked mine too. I have some of those Monoprice HDMI cables with the big-assed torroids on them. They will take a 90 degree bend, making the torroid run parallel to the receiver and easilly fit the torroid body inside a 2 inch boundary beyond the binding post.

As you say, "where there's a will" and the key to making the 807 fit into a 19 inch depth will be using velcro cable straps to keep the stiff cables held parallel to the receiver where you want them without straining the connectors. Some of the low-profile HDMI cables might help too.
post #3501 of 5391
Don't they make HDMI cables with the angled/hinged heads? Not that they're as cheap as Monoprice, but might be an option.
post #3502 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tulpa View Post

Don't they make HDMI cables with the angled/hinged heads? Not that they're as cheap as Monoprice, but might be an option.

Yep...that's what I meant by low-profile. Here's an example:

http://www.amazon.com/Degree-Right-A...0869457&sr=1-1

and there are also lots of these adapters:
http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-HDMI-Ri...0869527&sr=1-1

Don't know if Monoprice carries them.
post #3503 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by kmike View Post

Marlon, try posting in the HTPC forum...give specifics on your receiver model, the PC brand and model, the graphics card, etc. Those guys will know the gear better.

Here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=26

thnx sir mike! i finally found the solution here

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/artic...eo-Cards/600/2

Connecting S/PDIF here : http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post19000742
post #3504 of 5391
Hey guys I bought a samsung ht-z310 and connected it to my Onk. I have read on the manual that when you turn the HDMI audio to "ON" in the settings it will automatically down-mix the audio output to 2 channel.

Is there a way to turn the automatic down-mixing to 2 channel so I can enjoy the full 5.1 audio of my DVD movies to my 7.1 set up? [nothing can be found on the manual to solve my problem]

I know I shouldn't be posting this here, but I have tried it posting in another thread but unfortunately I did not get answer for quite a while already. I am just wondering if anybody here has the same problem with me.

I really need your help guys
post #3505 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Sherwood View Post

I have some Monoprice HDMI cable that is so stiff that it barely makes the 4" restriction.

All of Monoprice's higher priced cables are way too stiff, they're so bad I had to switch to the cheaper ones which are more flexible. Most of them are the same cable just a fancy very stiff outer jacket.
post #3506 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by colour View Post

All of Monoprice's higher priced cables are way too stiff, they're so bad I had to switch to the cheaper ones which are more flexible. Most of them are the same cable just a fancy very stiff outer jacket.

Buy one of their 8" port savers. They work like a charm.
post #3507 of 5391
So my RC180 blew up so i returned it for a new one. This one clicks like its changing audio sources in the middle of watching blu-rays, the audio dosent change and there is no drop out or anything, its just a little annoying and unusual.

Any ideas?
post #3508 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by squeeks View Post

So my RC180 blew up so i returned it for a new one. This one clicks like its changing audio sources in the middle of watching blu-rays, the audio dosent change and there is no drop out or anything, its just a little annoying and unusual.

Any ideas?

Yes...one of the firmware updates addressed the clicking so do a firmware update after reading this:
http://filedepot.onkyousa.com/Files/...3e7b561d6b4f2d

If still having clicking problems afterwards, read this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...light=clicking
post #3509 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkornerup View Post

Buy one of their 8" port savers. They work like a charm.

Ya, I saw those after I already replaced mine. One of the worst ones are their optical cables with the stiff outer jacket, plus they're heavy on the ends you're lucky if they stay connected.

Still might pickup those port savers though.
post #3510 of 5391
Quote:
Originally Posted by squeeks View Post

So my RC180 blew up so i returned it for a new one. This one clicks like its changing audio sources in the middle of watching blu-rays, the audio dosent change and there is no drop out or anything, its just a little annoying and unusual.

Any ideas?

Mine was fixed after the update.
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