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Onkyo TX-NR807 Official Thread - Page 121

post #3601 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by agnathra View Post

i thought that everyone agreed the actual wattage was the same for both units...same power consumption, etc. the published difference was just a "marketing" difference.

It's pure speculation, started earlier in this thread and perpetuated by "interpretation" of the specifications on pages 144 and 145 of the 807/RC180 Instruction Manual. The wattage per channel is listed as "minimum per channel"...135W for the 807 and 110W for the RC180....but it can be more when spec'd that way. However, just below, the "Dynamic Power" specs are exectly the same between the 807 and RC180 at 150WPC at 8 ohms. All of the other amplifier specs are exactly the same....line for line, word for word. Under "General" the power consumption for North America (the RC180 is only available here) is exactly the same at 8.1 Amps and the overall unit weights are 39.7 pounds each.

Generally, a manufacturer can make better use of R&D money by having high degrees of parts commonality between similar products....especially products that can be pre-assembled in sections....like power supply and amplifier. Redesigning for lower pricing requires a LOT of cost cutting and component change to justify the investment in R&D dollars and it's usually better to just make statements that differentiate products with exactly the same components...and then spec them differently, label them differently and avoid royalties where possible like leaving off Windows stickers, moving the stickers to the top of the unit instead of the face, etc.. This positions them differently in their respective marketplaces while allowing the factory the luxury of having common, on-the-shelf, interchangeable parts so they can quickly build one or the other model based upon real orders versus the very often completely wrong market demand forecasts.

So, it's a guess at best, but an educated one that makes sense.
post #3602 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmo34 View Post

I noticed a similar occurence on my PS3 playing a baseball game. The crowd noise was so loud I couldn't even hear the announcers. I tried adjusting the Audio sliders in the game to compensate, but there was definitely a lot more volume/sound coming from the rear versus the front speakers throughout the game.

Messing with the Dynamic EQ, as someone suggested, did not help. Neither did turning the EQ from Audyssey to "manual". I just find it odd that it's perfect for movies but no games from the same system. Anybody else encounter this and solve the problem?
post #3603 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by elixxxer View Post

Messing with the Dynamic EQ, as someone suggested, did not help. Neither did turning the EQ from Audyssey to "manual". I just find it odd that it's perfect for movies but no games from the same system. Anybody else encounter this and solve the problem?

I have a similar issue with NBC HD, just never bothered me enough to try and resolve it. Watching something like Jimmy Fallon, the crowd noise is way too loud.
post #3604 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmo34 View Post


I have streamed Pandora to Zone 2, so I would think DLNA would work since its coming from the same input(ie. Network), but I can not confirm that.

I have been able to stream from dlna to zone 2. The pc is a windows 7 ultimate machine. Note: make sure to enable sharing on the pc so the receiver can gain full access to files (especially ones w/ drm)
post #3605 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmo34 View Post

I have streamed Pandora to Zone 2, so I would think DLNA would work since its coming from the same input(ie. Network), but I can not confirm that.

how did you get this working? I am able to get pandora into zone 1, but when I select NET as the source for zone 2, I would presume that just takes me to the main NET menu, and I cannot navigate to pandora, since the TV is displaying the zone 1 source.

edit: other sources for zone 2 are working fine...just cant get pandora working.

Thanks,
Ross
post #3606 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by kmike View Post

It's pure speculation, started earlier in this thread and perpetuated by "interpretation" of the specifications on pages 144 and 145 of the 807/RC180 Instruction Manual. The wattage per channel is listed as "minimum per channel"...135W for the 807 and 110W for the RC180....but it can be more when spec'd that way. However, just below, the "Dynamic Power" specs are exectly the same between the 807 and RC180 at 150WPC at 8 ohms. All of the other amplifier specs are exactly the same....line for line, word for word. Under "General" the power consumption for North America (the RC180 is only available here) is exactly the same at 8.1 Amps and the overall unit weights are 39.7 pounds each.

Generally, a manufacturer can make better use of R&D money by having high degrees of parts commonality between similar products....especially products that can be pre-assembled in sections....like power supply and amplifier. Redesigning for lower pricing requires a LOT of cost cutting and component change to justify the investment in R&D dollars and it's usually better to just make statements that differentiate products with exactly the same components...and then spec them differently, label them differently and avoid royalties where possible like leaving off Windows stickers, moving the stickers to the top of the unit instead of the face, etc.. This positions them differently in their respective marketplaces while allowing the factory the luxury of having common, on-the-shelf, interchangeable parts so they can quickly build one or the other model based upon real orders versus the very often completely wrong market demand forecasts.

So, it's a guess at best, but an educated one that makes sense.

Very interesting Mike. I just purchased the RC180 but with over 3000 posts in this thread, I have not combed through it. Probably missing a lot of good information.

Ray
post #3607 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by raylock View Post

Very interesting Mike. I just purchased the RC180 but with over 3000 posts in this thread, I have not combed through it. Probably missing a lot of good information.

Ray

It's a worthwhile read and full of great info....I went through it entirely and despite all of the complaints about connectivity, incomplete firmware updates, heat, reliability, customer service and low WPC under load test results in a well respected audio publication I bought an RC180 anyway. I don't miss the dropped feature differences from the 807 and I sure don't regret not getting the Windows7 compatibility sticker on the front and I prefer all of the other logos being on the top side of the front bezel. It's been my best enjoyment-for-the-money purchase yet and that's saying a lot considering I had a Denon 988 before this that cost only $360 brand new as Circuit City closed down.
post #3608 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by theross03 View Post

how did you get this working? I am able to get pandora into zone 1, but when I select NET as the source for zone 2, I would presume that just takes me to the main NET menu, and I cannot navigate to pandora, since the TV is displaying the zone 1 source.

edit: other sources for zone 2 are working fine...just cant get pandora working.

Thanks,
Ross

Ross, get Pandora working in the main zone with zone2 enabled at the same time, then you can switch the main zone off onto another source input and Pandora should remain in zone2. If you need to change stations you'll need to switch the main zone back to Net/Pandora. Awkward but it works.
post #3609 of 5476
Soo I've had my HT-RC180 for about a week now. So far I am very happy with it. I had a Harman/Kardon AVR 347 before the Onkyo. To my ears they sound very alike. Cept the Onkyo is just a tad brighter sounding at reference. And the Onkyo is quite a bit more reliable.

One thing that let me down was the fact that I cannot get the OSD to appear using the component outputs. Should have caught that in the manual when certain OSD instructions were labeled "TX-NR807". Oh well. Just means I have to use my TV to select wither Component or HDMI. (HDMI gives me wobbly line on my TV). If anyone knows a trick to get the RC180 to display the OSD on component outputs, i would really like to know.

Anyway, other then that, ive been a really happy camper with this receiver. NET mode saw my "PS3 media server" program instantly, which was a nice surprise. I used it for a little bit, but the gap between songs was kind of annoying. I have my PC connected to my Onkyo via Coaxial digital anyway. . .

Also, one more question. Hardware setup -> Network -> Control. What exactly is this? Is there a program from Onkyo where i can change the volume via PC or something? Because that would be pretty cool.
post #3610 of 5476
I've got the 807 and the sound is really solid. Better and bigger than the 707 I had before it. I've had some similar sound drop outs (every 7 - 10 days) but it doesnt matter what source. I have to plug and unplug to clear it up. Is this also a problem you've seen with the 808? I'm trying to figure out if I should upgrade. The only difference to me looks like the 1.4a hdmi inputs. And it's debatable whether that's a big deal or not.
Any thoughts???
post #3611 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by raylock View Post

Sounds good. If your needs can be met with 110 watts instead of 135 you can get this receiver (same receiver, a little less power) here for $508 with free shipping and a 30 day return policy.

Edit: One option that seems to be overlooked by many is to always check the AVS store (top of page). I have purchased most of my stuff through them at prices I could not get anywhere else

Well ,I checked the store and they told me it comes with normal warranty that unopened, products come with which means it comes with a 2 yr. warranty from the manufacturer.
(as well as another year from my visa warranty program) which = a total of a 3 yr. warranty.

I figure I can't beat getting this item (TX-NR708) for $540. for any reason and from an recognized Onkyo dealer which includes returning within 30 days if I'm not happy for ANY reason.

Anyone have any reason I shouldn't get this right away(which I need to do) ,please explain why.

Thanks,
Brentski
post #3612 of 5476
>>I figure I can't beat getting this item (TX-NR708) for $540<<

708 or 807?
post #3613 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by raylock View Post

>>I figure I can't beat getting this item (TX-NR708) for $540<<

708 or 807?

I'm sorry, It's for model # TX-NR807 for @ $540. Sorry if I made the mistake in model #'s as there's quite a difference between the two models.

Thanks for helping me to clear that up.

Brentski
post #3614 of 5476
No need to be sorry, that's usually my game
post #3615 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by brentski View Post

I'm sorry, It's for model # TX-NR807 for @ $540. Sorry if I made the mistake in model #'s as there's quite a difference between the two models.

Thanks for helping me to clear that up.

Brentski

That's a great price for a new unit.... I wouldn't wait or someone else will get it before you do
post #3616 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by kmike View Post

They'll work just fine and you won't know they're not 8 ohm and neither will your system if you run Audyssey to let it set the trim levels correctly.

For an even better experience, try moving the 62si's up front to DSX wide duty, the Jamo dipoles to surround (no rears) and rerun Audyssey.

How should I setup my sub before running Audyssey, have read several post about problems with subs not working well with Audyssey?
post #3617 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by rambo64 View Post

How should I setup my sub before running Audyssey, have read several post about problems with subs not working well with Audyssey?

Read through the first post in the following linked thread, then download the Audyssey Setup Guide document at the end of the post and follow it. To get the subwoofer trim level right with the RC180/807 you have to run Audyssey in three listening positions then calibrate, adjust as needed then re-run when it's right. Be sure to run all six positions afterwards. Also, be sure to turn off the air conditioning and unplug appliances like refrigerators to get the room as guiet as possible.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post14456895
post #3618 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmo34 View Post

I have streamed Pandora to Zone 2, so I would think DLNA would work since its coming from the same input(ie. Network), but I can not confirm that.

for my zone 2 on my 807, DLNA is working, and so is streaming from a non-DLNA NAS (D-Link DNS-323 NAS running it's own media server s/w).

The only real nuisance, as brought up in a different post, is the need to go back to the main zone's net interface if you want to browse different stations or tracks on the server...which then stops / restarts zone 2 playback. It's quite annoying...would be nice if you could just play through as like in the main zone. Similar issue in the main zone when changing receiver remote modes and going back to net mode....stops & restarts the track. Hopefully a f/w update might address this.

Other than that, the 807 is pretty sweet so far...replaces my older Pio Elite that was devoid of handling DTS and current day a/v switching capabilities.
post #3619 of 5476
Well...as an update to my earlier issue...ONKYO Support is ZERO assistance...They are telling me they have no higher level of tech support? Can anyone verify this for me?
I absolutely LOVE talking to "BOB" who is sitting half the planet away, telling me I should run a shorter cable to my projector...to eliminate any chance of the cable dropping the feed...
So, "Bob"...none of the thousands of this unit sold are using a 30 foot run of 22 awg hdmi cabling? To a projector? And when I run the cable directly from my Xbox 360, and I have no video drops? So, "Bob" you are telling me that the 360 has more HDMI output power than your THX2 Certified "Home Theater Receiver"? And I "may need to use a signal booster for a run that long"? AND you tell me that the hard reset will send me back to my earlier firmware, and erase all settings...(which it did neither...)
I guess I'll fall back on Newegg...great, a week old, and sending it back....
post #3620 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin g. View Post

Well...as an update to my earlier issue...ONKYO Support is ZERO assistance...They are telling me they have no higher level of tech support? Can anyone verify this for me?
I absolutely LOVE talking to "BOB" who is sitting half the planet away, telling me I should run a shorter cable to my projector...to eliminate any chance of the cable dropping the feed...
So, "Bob"...none of the thousands of this unit sold are using a 30 foot run of 22 awg hdmi cabling? To a projector? And when I run the cable directly from my Xbox 360, and I have no video drops? So, "Bob" you are telling me that the 360 has more HDMI output power than your THX2 Certified "Home Theater Receiver"? And I "may need to use a signal booster for a run that long"? AND you tell me that the hard reset will send me back to my earlier firmware, and erase all settings...(which it did neither...)
I guess I'll fall back on Newegg...great, a week old, and sending it back....


Have you tried this:
To by-pass video upconversion in the receiver, simultaneously press the [VCR/DVR] and [RETURN] buttons on the AV receiver. While continuing to hold down the [VCR/DVR] button, press the [RETURN] button to toggle until "Skip" appears on the display. Release both buttons. To use the video upconversion in the receiver, repeat the above process until "Use" appears on the display and release the buttons."

This turns off video processing completely you will lose the OSD overlay. I had issues with my 360 until I did this.
post #3621 of 5476
Funny thing is, I am getting sparsely intermittent signal from my "HDMI out" all kinds of drops. Then an instant of video, then nothing, then blue screen, then snow, then black... It doesn't show the OSD, the feed via my Directv box over component will not come through...
I hate going through the hassle of sending it back. Otherwise it works fine, but I want it to work the way it was meant to, in case I want the features...That's why I bought THIS model over the HK and Yammy....
post #3622 of 5476
807 and Blu-ray question. I've been researching the best blu ray players for 2010. I have an older Sharp BD21U model (with updated firmware) and reviews state that it doesn't provide the best pic. Question is, if its running through the 807 will it dramatically enhance the pic or should I just buy another dvd player?
post #3623 of 5476
Everything I've read, through (to pages 32-33), suggests that the Faroudja processing leaves a little to be desired....

Ok,
I have finally received an email from Onkyo Tech...they are suggessting (still) a signal booster...anyone running a theater setup with a projector (approx. 30 foot run) that found it necessary to use a booster to get a clean HDMI signal?
post #3624 of 5476
For anyone who has been successful using the DLNA function to stream MP3's from their computer: Has anyone tried using the "Play To" function in Windows 7? Basically allows you to control the music and playlist from inside Windows Media Player. I have a 807 sitting in a box at home and still have a few more months until I get to play with it so I have to live vicariously through you guys

Here's a link to the "Play To" from Microsoft in case anyone is interested:

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/w...atures/play-to
post #3625 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by rambo64 View Post

807 and Blu-ray question. I've been researching the best blu ray players for 2010. I have an older Sharp BD21U model (with updated firmware) and reviews state that it doesn't provide the best pic. Question is, if its running through the 807 will it dramatically enhance the pic or should I just buy another dvd player?

Blu Ray disks look pretty much the same regardless of the player for the most part. The area many players fall down on is upconverting DVDs and playing stuff like Netflix. I have a couple of Samsung 2550s and an Insignia BPD and I picked up a nice Sony 370 last month. While I really like the speed of the Sony, and the BD image looks great but they do too on the Sammy and Insignia. DVDs and Netflix looks better on the older Sammy due to the chips it uses.
post #3626 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by drunkmunk View Post

For anyone who has been successful using the DLNA function to stream MP3's from their computer: Has anyone tried using the "Play To" function in Windows 7? Basically allows you to control the music and playlist from inside Windows Media Player. I have a 807 sitting in a box at home and still have a few more months until I get to play with it so I have to live vicariously through you guys

Yes, it does work with the 'play to' function...if the 807 is on (and seen as a streamable device in win7), you'll see it in the 'play to' dropdown list.

I'm still trying to figure out what the 'network control' option does in the 807...is it supposed to let you power on/off and make adjustments, or is it simply to have access to the 'net interface gui when receiver is powered down? Need to play some more to figure it out.
post #3627 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by acee3 View Post

Yes, it does work with the 'play to' function...if the 807 is on (and seen as a streamable device in win7), you'll see it in the 'play to' dropdown list.

I'm still trying to figure out what the 'network control' option does in the 807...is it supposed to let you power on/off and make adjustments, or is it simply to have access to the 'net interface gui when receiver is powered down? Need to play some more to figure it out.

Let me know what you find out. It would be pretty damn cool to be able to DJ and control volume/source all from a little net top in zone 2.
post #3628 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin g. View Post

Everything I've read, through (to pages 32-33), suggests that the Faroudja processing leaves a little to be desired....

Ok,
I have finally received an email from Onkyo Tech...they are suggessting (still) a signal booster...anyone running a theater setup with a projector (approx. 30 foot run) that found it necessary to use a booster to get a clean HDMI signal?

I am using 807 + Mitsubishi HC3800 via HDMI 25ft Tin-Plated Copper CL2 Rated Cable (24AWG). So far, i am getting the best HDMI signal my receiver has to offer.
post #3629 of 5476
Hello all

I recently got the 807 and there are a few things I am struggling to fully understand:

1) since all my outputs (dvd, ps3, 360, hd-dvd, ps2) are going through the receiver and are being sent to the same channel on my tv, how does that effect my display settings? I used to have each output device set on a different channel and when trying to calibrate them each one had a different setting @_@ Wouldn't it stand to reason that one setting for all of them would be incorrect ?

2) I've got a 5.1 setup, and I'm not certain which audio playback mode I shoudl be using when trying to listen to blurays with lossless audio or DTS-HD etc. My old Onkyo used to say "DTS" or "Dolby DIgital" with respect to the output source, but what i typically see on the display now is "all channel stereo" "Multi channel" or (if i flip through them) "Direct". Which one should i be using? I realize that the Neo/Neural/Prologic/etc try to extend to extra speakers, so I'm not thinking of those.

3) When I go on long trips (or if there is a storm) i tend to switch off everything and unplug hte power bars from the walls...... do i need to re-run Audyssey each time I do this ?

4) I believe I've set the receiver to pass-through all the video signals, which means (I believe) that my ps3 will output at 1080p on it's own, my hD-dvd will output at 1080 on it's own, and my DVD player will use it's own chip to upscale to 1080p. My dvd player is a philips 5982 and I'm not certain whether it does a better job than the 807.. is there a way to allow it to upscale for my 5982 but nothing else ?

thx in advance !
post #3630 of 5476
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeez View Post

Hello all

I recently got the 807 and there are a few things I am struggling to fully understand:

1) since all my outputs (dvd, ps3, 360, hd-dvd, ps2) are going through the receiver and are being sent to the same channel on my tv, how does that effect my display settings? I used to have each output device set on a different channel and when trying to calibrate them each one had a different setting @_@ Wouldn't it stand to reason that one setting for all of them would be incorrect ?

I use settings in the source to adjust anything if needed.

2) I've got a 5.1 setup, and I'm not certain which audio playback mode I shoudl be using when trying to listen to blurays with lossless audio or DTS-HD etc. My old Onkyo used to say "DTS" or "Dolby DIgital" with respect to the output source, but what i typically see on the display now is "all channel stereo" "Multi channel" or (if i flip through them) "Direct". Which one should i be using? I realize that the Neo/Neural/Prologic/etc try to extend to extra speakers, so I'm not thinking of those.

I usually use Audyssey or THX.

3) When I go on long trips (or if there is a storm) i tend to switch off everything and unplug hte power bars from the walls...... do i need to re-run Audyssey each time I do this ?

Probably.

4) I believe I've set the receiver to pass-through all the video signals, which means (I believe) that my ps3 will output at 1080p on it's own, my hD-dvd will output at 1080 on it's own, and my DVD player will use it's own chip to upscale to 1080p. My dvd player is a philips 5982 and I'm not certain whether it does a better job than the 807.. is there a way to allow it to upscale for my 5982 but nothing else ?thx in advance !

Pass through really isn't, it still processes the video I had to turn mine completely off using a set of codes. You can flip through the upscaling formats with the remote.
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