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Onkyo TX-NR807 Official Thread - Page 171

post #5101 of 5391
4/12/12 at 8:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by malmstump View Post

guys i tried the trick ,and it didn't work for me .the speakers icons did come back but when i turn off the 807 they disappeared again i 'll tell you what mine did during the test.
i pressed the standby and cd together and than pressed the cd twice ,entered the test mode pressed the right button when each test had the blinking direct come on ,i am assuming that is right ?went from tests 6-0 to the last test the key test ,it said key off than i pressed cd but it didnt do anything so i pressed stanby and it said clear and turned off ,than i powered it on and same thing the no sound and no speakers icon.i noticed that the tests 4-0 - till 4-28 there were nothing no clicking no speakers icon or direct up untill the 4-40 where the fan comes on test .anyways it may have worked for some of you and i thank you anadigi for discovering that exellent trick dude i am sure your a hero for finding that ,a lot of people will be impressed man .too bad it did not work for me yet i had to take it out again and box it up i am leaning now for the pioneer 1121 k or the onkyo 809 ,but i don't know about onkyos now i have been reading the 809 posts and they don't have that no sound issues ,i guess i have to listen to both and decide .yup a side by side test .
again thanx anadigi for the trick dude

I do have failed once, if you have the patient to try once may be twice, then the sound may comes back. If you have the sound from the test and it makes no sense that the reciever is not working.
I believe the receiver nowaday is just a computer.
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post #5102 of 5391
4/13/12 at 9:14am
Unfortunately mine broke for good after 4 days of use ( after doing standby+cd trick) I tried do do the test again and again but it just doesnt help no more :/
You're right anadigi - av receivers are now computers. I am pretty sure it is some kind of software issue. Anyway I'm packing the unit and will send it for repair next week. I'll keep U informed
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post #5103 of 5391
4/13/12 at 3:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Veencent View Post

Unfortunately mine broke for good after 4 days of use ( after doing standby+cd trick) I tried do do the test again and again but it just doesnt help no more :/
You're right anadigi - av receivers are now computers. I am pretty sure it is some kind of software issue. Anyway I'm packing the unit and will send it for repair next week. I'll keep U informed

Sorry to hear that!
However, mind is still kicking, hopfully it stays!

If I were you I will try one more time.

One more thing is I no longer use the standby button to turn on, instead I press the CD button and wait untill all the speaker icons displayed (with the click sound).
Remind you it is not cheap to repair after warranty!
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post #5104 of 5391
4/13/12 at 3:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by anadigi View Post

Sorry to hear that!
However, mind is still kicking, hopfully it stays!

If I were you I will try one more time.

One more thing is I no longer use the standby button to turn on, instead I press the CD button and wait untill all the speaker icons displayed (with the click sound).
Remind you it is not cheap to repair after warranty!

Yeah it's better to just trash the thing & get a new one seems the repairs are north of $650 bucks outta warranty
Sorry to hear the problems .." Knocks on Wood " mine is still kickin ' but I am looking @ replacing it soon rather than later when it dies
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post #5105 of 5391
4/13/12 at 5:22pm
Found out that my HDMI board is bad on my Onkyo TX-NR807. I have good news for the people who have the same problem. Found a guy through Ebay that repairs these boards for $75.00 plus shipping. Sounds a hell of alot better then $630.00 for a replacement board from ABL. He is emailing me his Company name and address. I will post it shortly when the email comes.
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post #5106 of 5391
4/13/12 at 6:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Voodoo Chile View Post

Found out that my HDMI board is bad on my Onkyo TX-NR807. I have good news for the people who have the same problem. Found a guy through Ebay that repairs these boards for $75.00 plus shipping. Sounds a hell of alot better then $630.00 for a replacement board from ABL. He is emailing me his Company name and address. I will post it shortly when the email comes.

i bought one as well .. $96 shipped . got it as a insurance policy . as the 807 is still kickin'
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post #5107 of 5391
4/13/12 at 6:43pm
Here is the name and address:
AUDIOVIDEO410
10531 Stern Ave
Garden Grove CA 92843
duc10531@yahoo.com
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post #5108 of 5391
4/17/12 at 8:42am
Hi.
I need to ask for a favor.
Can somebody tell me whats't the AC Voltage which goes directly from Transformer (Black and Blue cables) to this little board near main radiator, which then connects to Display board? On board it's named as "-VP_AC1".
Service Manual don't say antything about main transformer voltages.
Thx in advance.
Here's photo
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post #5109 of 5391
4/17/12 at 12:24pm
Good news, after contacting Onkyo support around march 27th and them requesting my receipt from when i bought it. They promptly ignored my email with my receipt and I didn't hear back from them for two weeks. I contacted them again last weds and asked to speak to his manager. Apparently they only have one tech on duty dburke. I asked to speak with his manager because he hadn't responded back to my first email. I left a message for his manager to call me back. Surprise! she didn't call me back either.

So today 4/17/12 i contacted Onkyo and spoke to... you guessed it dburke. I gave him the date for which i supplied him the email with my receipt and he did a little digging and was like, uh you've been approved to send it to ABL for awhile now, not sure why you didn't get a response from us... So good news i only have to pay for shipping... which is 50 bucks for a second time at repairing this thing. When i get it back from ABL i am going to test the crap out of this thing to make sure it doesn't break again.
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post #5110 of 5391
4/18/12 at 5:59pm
I think i know answer for my first question (3.3V) but i have another problem.
I tried to test VFD display, but i can't get it to work.
Does anybody know FLAC voltage for Onkyo VFD display? I have problems with getting it to light anything. Vacuum is ok, because red/violet lines lit when i connect 6V AC Flac Voltage, but when i try to test some segment (DC 3V) there are no reactions. Only red lines, nothing else. I bought TX-NR807, but inside there was different TRAFO, so i don't know what voltages this display needs. I think my FLAC test Voltage might be too low. I read that VFD can take 15V or even 30V. Those lines are barely visible.
Can somebody check this? Or maybe somebody already knows this?
TX-NR808 and TX-NR807 are almost the same. FLAC voltage goes on another lines directly form Transformer to display sections. In TX-NR807 those are 2 BROWN cables on my picture above.
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post #5111 of 5391
4/18/12 at 7:23pm
I measured 43.5 V AC between blue and black wires and 6.9 V AC between the two brown wires.
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post #5112 of 5391
4/19/12 at 1:39am
I bought one of these used and broken with no sound hoping to fix. Speaker matrix was not showing and network was greyed out on OSD. I tried the CD standby test with no results. Noticed test 6-00 read CEC-ng. Today I tried leaving the unit on and did test 1-00 where the full speaker matrix shows up and left it on that test for a few hours. It started working again and test 6-00 now says CEC-ok. Turned it on and off and it was still working. Will turn it off and see if it still works when it cools down. Tells me there is a cold solder joint somewhere. Trying to find out what chip I need to reflow to get this to work more permanently. I bought a cheap reflow station on E-bay to do this.
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post #5113 of 5391
4/19/12 at 5:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Endersroc View Post

I bought one of these used and broken with no sound hoping to fix. Speaker matrix was not showing and network was greyed out on OSD. I tried the CD standby test with no results. Noticed test 6-00 read CEC-ng. Today I tried leaving the unit on and did test 1-00 where the full speaker matrix shows up and left it on that test for a few hours. It started working again and test 6-00 now says CEC-ok. Turned it on and off and it was still working. Will turn it off and see if it still works when it cools down. Tells me there is a cold solder joint somewhere. Trying to find out what chip I need to reflow to get this to work more permanently. I bought a cheap reflow station on E-bay to do this.

Mine is still kicking for 3 weeks after discovering the test.
I hope we can find out all the details from the test.
I still believe that the configuration is corrupted and fixed after the test confirmation.
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post #5114 of 5391
4/19/12 at 8:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Endersroc View Post

I measured 43.5 V AC between blue and black wires and 6.9 V AC between the two brown wires.

Thank you very much! Now i have another problem beacause of this 43.5V.
When i measure voltage which goes to display driver on pins -VP and +3.3VMPU (i used little transformer with near 10V AC) get 10V DC on +3.3VMPU pin. So if i connect 43V AC i get at least 40V on 3.3VMPU and -VP pins. Is that correct? cAn you check it and confirm?
I found pdf of this VDF driver, but i'm not sure if i understand it correctly. This is my first time with VFD displays. I need confirmation before i connect it to 43V (first i need to find some trafo with at least 30V AC .
Here:
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post #5115 of 5391
4/19/12 at 12:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elektronek View Post

Thank you very much! Now i have another problem beacause of this 43.5V.
When i measure voltage which goes to display driver on pins -VP and +3.3VMPU (i used little transformer with near 10V AC) get 10V DC on +3.3VMPU pin. So if i connect 43V AC i get at least 40V on 3.3VMPU and -VP pins. Is that correct? cAn you check it and confirm?
I found pdf of this VDF driver, but i'm not sure if i understand it correctly. This is my first time with VFD displays. I need confirmation before i connect it to 43V (first i need to find some trafo with at least 30V AC .
Here:

I measured 46.8 VDC across that capacitor right beside the connector and according to schematic it is between +3.3VMPU AND -VP pins.
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post #5116 of 5391
4/19/12 at 2:39pm
After further testing I found that this CD standby diagnostic test only works on mine when its been on for a couple hours and as soon as it cools down it quits working. Which leads me to believe that it is a solder connection that has gone bad somewhere which can be affected by heat. I think the diagnostic test is manually turning the affected circuit on producing current/heat through the affected joint and allowing it to work for awhile. Kudos for all that this has worked for but I think it is only temporary. My next step is to reflow each chip on this board until I can get it working on a cold start hopefully isolating the bad component as well. I broke my heel so this is kill time project for me. I will relay any information or success so as to hopefully ease the pain of many 807 owners.
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post #5117 of 5391
4/19/12 at 7:19pm
Check the 707 thread...reportedly there are some there, that have serviced their own out of warranty repair...with liquid solder, (around a specific chip or capacitor), and a heat gun.
I don't know much about it, as I only read about it today.
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post #5118 of 5391
4/20/12 at 5:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin g. View Post

Check the 707 thread...reportedly there are some there, that have serviced their own out of warranty repair...with liquid solder, (around a specific chip or capacitor), and a heat gun.
I don't know much about it, as I only read about it today.

Thanks Kevin! You have officially killed my killing time project cause thanks to your advice its ...yes....FIXED!!!For how long who knows. But I know how to fix it if it quits again. So for $200 bucks (100 for the amp and 100 for the reflow station, a heat gun will work) I have a fully functional reciever. I went and looked at the 707 thread and what they are doing is reflowing the BGA style DTS chip. All you need is a heat gun, no clean flux and a infrared gun to measure chip temp. The last item is key as you need to heat the chip hot enough to melt the solder and not to hot as to cook the chip. (235C or 455F) is required to melt lead free solder. Hopes this info helps other people.
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post #5119 of 5391
4/20/12 at 6:31pm
My problem still persist. I finally managed to test VFD display after connecting voltages directly to the legs. It's working. I had red lines... and white random pinpoints when i touched random + pins with lover voltage than it needs for full brightness.
Now i know that my problem is in VFD drivers (killed by previous owner/repairmen) or in DSP board.
Another problem is that i bought this reciever "as is" working (playing music/hdmi etc) but not displaying. When i opened it i saw that inside elements are from TX-NR807 but front panel is from TX-NR808. I checked SM from both and almost all conections are the same... at least when it comes to displaying. So i think they shoud be compatible.

If somebody has some suggestions, fell free to speak Maybe some suggestion how to test VFD drivers?
Maybe somebody have TX-NR807 front panel - lying and dying from not being used?
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post #5120 of 5391
4/21/12 at 8:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Endersroc View Post

Thanks Kevin! You have officially killed my killing time project cause thanks to your advice its ...yes....FIXED!!!For how long who knows. But I know how to fix it if it quits again. So for $200 bucks (100 for the amp and 100 for the reflow station, a heat gun will work) I have a fully functional reciever. I went and looked at the 707 thread and what they are doing is reflowing the BGA style DTS chip. All you need is a heat gun, no clean flux and a infrared gun to measure chip temp. The last item is key as you need to heat the chip hot enough to melt the solder and not to hot as to cook the chip. (235C or 455F) is required to melt lead free solder. Hopes this info helps other people.

Congrats!
I may have need of your services...to point me in the right direction, WHEN mine goes out...almost assuredly out of warranty. I am running at about 18 months right now...the point of failure for most...
I expect mine will go just long enough past the two-year, for Onkyo to deny any repair.
I suspect this is the "Re-flow" they are doing for the factory repair, prior to the board replacement?
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post #5121 of 5391
4/21/12 at 10:31am
Very interesting last few pages here... so that's why the Onkyo 807 manual states in very, very fine print that you need a degree in Electrical Engineering to own this unit - and a Master's is preferred!!!
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post #5122 of 5391
4/21/12 at 4:17pm
Just an update. Unit ran yesterday for about 12 hours no problems. Shut it off and it did a cold start without problems today and is running good. I have to say this unit (when working) is an amazing unit and can understand why Onkyo owners are so pissed off after putting a wad down on something that breaks just after warranty expires. The reflow I did is probably what the factory tries first as its a cheap quick fix. The guy selling these boards on Ebay is probably doing this as well. As 95 dollars hardly would cover labour let alone any parts. These boards are 600 bucks for a reason. This board is basically the main brain board and does it all pretty much.
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post #5123 of 5391
4/21/12 at 5:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin g. View Post

Congrats!
I may have need of your services...to point me in the right direction, WHEN mine goes out...almost assuredly out of warranty. I am running at about 18 months right now...the point of failure for most...
I expect mine will go just long enough past the two-year, for Onkyo to deny any repair.
I suspect this is the "Re-flow" they are doing for the factory repair, prior to the board replacement?

Finally mine is not working anymore after 3 weeks!
I may have a chance to ask someone to 're-flow' the problem for me!
Kevin,
Can you tell me which area that I have to do the re-flow?
Hope you can post the picture too. Thanks
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post #5124 of 5391
4/21/12 at 5:43pm
Endersoc is better equipped than I to answer that...I have not had the need to try ...YET.
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post #5125 of 5391
4/21/12 at 6:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by anadigi View Post

Finally mine is not working anymore after 3 weeks!
I may have a chance to ask someone to 're-flow' the problem for me!
Kevin,
Can you tell me which area that I have to do the re-flow?
Hope you can post the picture too. Thanks

I think he had in mind this chip:

Direct link http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/2103/72396285.jpg

Now about mine displaying problem. I think i finally found glitch. After checking VFD is fine i decided to dismantle boards (as you can see in pictures to check 5 connections between reciever CPU (board with HDD cable socket) and VFD driving chips. It turned out that one conection had break between board sides (some fungus ate it hehe). I made connection and now i need to put everything back together to test it, but when i disassembled reciever i find out, that more parts are missing - i think.
What should be in this place? Only cable connection (red) and something else to this metal (blue)?

Direct link http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/2193/33897755.jpg
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post #5126 of 5391
4/21/12 at 6:31pm
Elektronek is correct. The BGA chip labeled DTS (circled in red in his pic) is the one I reflowed with results. I reflowed the DSP chip too but that did squat.
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post #5127 of 5391
4/21/12 at 6:45pm
Jupi!!!
I put it together and it seems to be reapaired! I only need more voltage for this 43V AC line, because i used only 10V AC (which comes from additional line on replacement Trafo inside my reciever.
Before "dimmer" function wasn't working at all - no blue led on Voltage gauge. Now blue led turns on/off while pushing dimmer few times (it has several options). And in full darkness i can see few white glows on VFD.
Where i get 40V AC? I need dig something out in my attic
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post #5128 of 5391
4/22/12 at 8:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by anadigi View Post

Finally mine is not working anymore after 3 weeks!
I may have a chance to ask someone to 're-flow' the problem for me!
Kevin,
Can you tell me which area that I have to do the re-flow?
Hope you can post the picture too. Thanks


The reflow is what the repair center did the first time to mine, it lasted about 3 weeks. The new board they put in on it's next visit has lasted now about 4 months. [fingerscrossed]
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post #5129 of 5391
4/22/12 at 8:16am
Endersroc
I need to ask you something. Can you take photos of reciever interiors?
I'm interested in whole mainboard. I don't have main fuses near Transformer (those biggest) and something else - i don't know there should be relays in this area and i can't see it on this photo i found.
Thanks.
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post #5130 of 5391
4/22/12 at 1:51pm
My unit is buttoned up and installed. Wife will flip if I uninstall it. I have a pic but it is too massive to upload. From my pic the areas to the right look normal. I can't see the fuse area too clearly.
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