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KDL-XBR4 Half the Screen Dark with Slow Pixel Refresh – All inputs - Page 5

post #121 of 158

I also use my TV as my monitor
post #122 of 158
the photo is of such a low resolution.... try again with higer res photo(s)...

post #123 of 158
Took two more pictures, hope these are better quality, had our camera up on max setting when I took them



if you click on the pictures it will enlarge them, to me the distortion is quite visible in both pictures, its the grey/shaded patchy areas on the sides

post #124 of 158
That's a no go for me.... picture sizes are 14 and 18kB each....I even tried to save then and then use Photoshop to enlarge / smooth them, but the aspect ratio is completely out of wack. maybe I have to be a member of a photobucket site or something... you can use AVS forum own "Go Advanced" tab option and upload the pictures that way....

anyway, the problem with these TV's is usually related to TAB's losing connectivity between T-CON module and the LCD glass substrate, check the picture I attached; the red arrows are pointing to the exact area where TAB's become "loose".

You can apply slight pressure with your finger to each section at the time until you find the offending one...

This will require work with mains powered TV where the voltages could kill if one is not careful, so avoid doing this if you haven't played around modules that have lethal voltages... Module you have to be very careful with is the power supply module. You've been warned!

Good luck,
post #125 of 158
OnlyTono I just join this forum to thank you. I have a KDL-52XBR9 follow ur thread did same is working fine for 2 weeks now THANKS AGAIN.....
post #126 of 158
I also only joined this forum to extend my gratitude to OnlyTono.

I have the european KDL-46X3500 model and can confirm that this solution works perfectly.

The problem has been happening intermittently for the last few months (set is just over three years old and outside warranty of course).

The problem was very similar to JM8000 previously in this thread with the horizontal lines and ghost images down the right of the screen.

After stripping the TV down it was indeed the top right tab (as you look at the screen) that was the culprit.

So I cut the bumpons down to size and placed then in the groove of the metal frame to fit exactly over where the tab lies.

Put everything back together and not a flicker since.

So problem solved, good as new and no hefty call-out / replacement charges to contend with.

Thanks again OnlyTono and also to NipRing for the helpful video.
post #127 of 158
Do you have to have the TV on while you do this?

To minimize danger, can you just put tabs on the ones you think are the problem and do it trial and error?

I don't want to: 1. get zapped, 2. kill me tv any more than it already is.
post #128 of 158
Hi, I would just like to thank everyone for this information and share my experience. I had the exact same issue described here, except on my Apple Cinema HD for my PC (A beauty of a monitor which nobody makes anymore). The display is a bit hard to crack open because of the unibody aluminium case, and DONT make the mistake of removing the stand like I did, because the spring looses tension and will not hold the monitor up after re-assembling it. I have to tuck a piece of hard foam just behind the hinge to hold it up now.

Anyway after removing the unibody case, I unscrewed a few screws at the top on the front of the screen and pulled the metal frame back a bit to reveal the troublesome flat cables going into the LCD. After 30 minutes of poking at them with the display on as suggested in this forum, I still had no luck. Then I bravely decided I would get a metal screw driver and randomly slide it along some of the gold metal contacts and the solder joints of the tiny components near the flat cables. The image on the display went crazy but after a few seconds of random short-circuitry I saw a perfect stable bright image!!! The image stayed perfect even after turning the screen off and plugging into another PC!! I dont know how I managed to jiggle some electrons around to make it work but it worked perfectly now! Re-assembled the screen and its working fine now.

Thank you very much for you help guys.
post #129 of 158
Originally Posted by NetViper View Post

Do you have to have the TV on while you do this?

To minimize danger, can you just put tabs on the ones you think are the problem and do it trial and error?

I don't want to: 1. get zapped, 2. kill me tv any more than it already is.

The TV really should be on in order to identify the faulty tab.

As it will be on its back at this point most of the exposed circuits will be underneath.

The tabs get hot but do not appear to be live as I gently prodded them all and am still here

But they are not removable.

Proceed with caution at your own risk and good luck...
post #130 of 158

Sams problem.
sony replaced the whole TV.
friend gave me the broken one. (SCORE)
used two layers of foam tape.
Has been working for five to six hours.

Wish some of the original posters could let us know if they are still working after all this time
post #131 of 158
my tv was working fine on the defective tab but then another Tab burnt a hole and now the Tv wont show an image. Anyone know how to fix a hole in the Tab tape.
post #132 of 158
I have a Sony Bravia KDL-52XBR5, Manufactured on december 2007

I am having an issue with my Sony Bravia XBR5 television, i have a tiny vertical line (Magenta Color) from top to bottom at 3¼"in. of the right edge of my 52" Tv. LCD panel.

I bought that Tv Set on 03/30/2008, so it's 44 months old.

I did have a Sony representative technicien look at my television for $141,00 dollars for the evaluation.

He told me that i had to change the 52" in. LCD panel for a total evaluation of $2,400,00 dollars.

Here in Canada , Quebec Province, we have a Consumer Protection Law that sawing when you buy expensive appliances it should last a certain period of time proportionnal to it cost and fonction of a normal lifespan.

CanLII (Canadian Legal Information Institute)

Consumer Protection Act, RSQ, c P-40.1

#37 Article:
Goods forming the object of a contract must be fit for the purpose for which goods of that kind are ordinary used.
1978, c. 9, s. 37

Goods must be durable.

#38 Article:
Goods forming the object of a contract must be durable in normal use for a reasonable length time, having regard to their price, the terms of the contract and the conditions of their use.
1978, c. 9, s. 38

I am waiting a proposition from Sony about this issue.

I might have to use that Consumer Protection Law against Sony.

I'm seriously thinking about taking them to Small Claims Court.

post #133 of 158
I have just haded the two photographies of my Sony Bravia KDL-52XBR5 screen with the vertical line on the right side of the picture.
post #134 of 158
FYI...my Sony KDL-46XBR4 is still working flawlessly
post #135 of 158
Holy Moly, all these people trying to repair their XBR4/XBR5 panels, while these panels are under Sony's extended warranty program. Looks like a big hassle compared to getting your TV fixed for free...
post #136 of 158
Originally Posted by potx4 View Post

Holy Moly, all these people trying to repair their XBR4/XBR5 panels, while these panels are under Sony's extended warranty program. Looks like a big hassle compared to getting your TV fixed for free...

Isn't that warranty only for 46" sets?
post #137 of 158
I just inherited a KDL-46WL135 with this same dark screen issue. The issue always cleared up 20-30 minutes after turning the TV on.

After reading this thread, I think I made the mistake of trying to swing up/out the front metal frame (TV still standing up on its stand) with that piece of conducting foil still attached to the TCON cover, instead of removing the foil and removing the frame completely. I think that may have shorted my TCON causing my screen to go white.

However when the screen was white, I noticed the faint images on the screen got sharper when I touched the tab on the far upper LEFT of my screen. So hopefully the new TCON board I just ordered will fix the white screen, and then I can once again address the dark screen issue with the tabs.
post #138 of 158
Just found this thread and am having problems with my Samsung LNT4661F tv. I'll post a video of the screen problems. I've tried pressing all around the panel but this didn't work. I had the Samsung approved repair person tell me the panel needs to be replaced. of course it costs the same as the price of the set. Over $1400 replacement cost. I'll check the tab connectors again with the back panel off and see if it makes a difference.
post #139 of 158
My TV has been having all the same symptoms since about 2+ years ago.
(Toshiba 46rv530u - manufactured in may 2008)

Started with vertical lines at startup, they would go away soon after turning the tv on, so I never thought much about it at the time. Over time it got harder to clear and then symptom 2, flickerin horizontal lines and ghosting, again it would go away after a few minutes from turing the tv on. it would keep taking longer to clear though. Recently it never cleared and I started to reasearch online.
I eventaully found this post and decidead to try the fix. My toshiba took time to figure out how to disassemble and get the LCD panel out of the housing. I did make it to the ribbon cables, and ofcouse the bad one was in the same spot upper right corner. For the shimmy i used a couple of cut in half pen grips.
This fix does work for my tv.
Have some photos I took , will try to post those at a later time.
post #140 of 158
anyone had a tech come out and repair this set? Called Sony tonight about my 46xbr4 and they told me a tech will contact me in 2-3 business days to come look at it, and if its a panel problem they will fix it in home.

what exactly do they do? do they put an entirely new lcd screen in?
post #141 of 158
Having a similar problem with KDL-46VL160, the unit is about 6 month out of its 2 years warranty. Can't believe Sony doesn't have a recall for these yet.

Please see the youtube video - does it look like the problem described in this thread?

Edited by och - 7/30/12 at 10:28pm
post #142 of 158
Hey guys!

I want to apologize straight up for hi-jacking this thread... I know it's the cardinal rule of forums... you can stone me later if you like!

But I've asked over 30 people (repairmen and 'experts' alike) for an answer to a question and NO ONE can give it to me straight!! confused.gif

If ANY of you could shed some light on my issue with my Bravia, I would be SO incredibly tickled! It seems to mirror the symptoms OnlyTono had, but it's not the same problem!

post #143 of 158
Hey OnlyTono,

EDIT:: Sorry for posting twice! I added to this thread at first, then directly responded to the thread starter post not realizing it was the same action! I can't figure out how to delete on of these posts! Sorry guys!

Question: When you first booted your TV up, did you notice if the Bravia logo was affected by the darkening??

My symptoms match yours to a "T", but I've tried the TABs and to no avail.

I noticed that my Bravia logo is completely fine, even though it's located in the same spot that appears 'broken' later.

I've started a thread on this phenomenon, and would love some input!
Thanks man!
Edited by slinkybeats - 11/8/12 at 11:32am
post #144 of 158
Joined just to thank OnlyTono for his awesome writeup. Had the same dark/slow pixels on half the screen on a Sony Bravia KDL-52W5150. I couldn't locate which ribbon was the faulty one, so instead of rubber bumpers, I used a piece of nylon twine held by electrical tape to make a ridge running along the entire top edge of the metal bracket opposite the tabs. So far haven't seen the problem come back. Hopefully it stays working.
post #145 of 158
I'm subscribing just for a single reason (but I might stay too smile.gif): to thank you guys for this awesome post.

My TV not working properly has been bugging me for two years but the warranty having expired and not being able to replace it just now meant I had to stick with it. Good thing I looked up if someone had a DIY solution. Too bad I didn't look it up 2 years ago smile.gif

I had the exact same symptoms : either slow pixels and a darkened left side of the screen, or horizontal lines and mirror images still on the left side. And slightly tapping the upper left side of the tv would switch from one symptom to the other. And sometimes after hours turned on, the tv would just start working normally until we switched it off... (Remember the Friends episode with the free porn where Joey and Chandler dare jot turn their tv off ? Same thing ^^)

Opening the TV set isn't too hard if you've already had fun playing around with a screwdriver (just don't forget to bin sort the screws wink.gif). The only hard part was putting the television face up without any electronic components on the back touching the table it was on and the solution I found was using a square wood base of approximately the size of the wall mounting structure on the back of the television which is obviously very strong and place tv on it. Once the panel was opened, the faulty connector is easy to find and fix. And the fault is obvious: in my case pushing on the connector shows a bubble of air appearing between the glue and the connector.

Just FYI, the tv is a Sony KDL-46W4710 (a variant of the 46W4500 series).

So again, OnlyTono, good job on daring to open your tv in the first place, and all the others for the additional input. I am ecstatic \o/

Greetings from France.
post #146 of 158
I have the Sony KDL-52W3000, was having the same problem as everyone else here. TV turned on and LCD showed a picture fine it just had 4 horizontal lines and a black shadow in the middle. Picture would lag a bit. I found this thread and decided to try it.

I got everything apart just fine and discovered that applying pressure to the ribbons definitely fixed it if I got them perfect. I turned the TV off and unplugged it to get some supplies for the fix and when I plugged the TV back in the LCD just stopped displaying anything. The power light will turn green for about 10 seconds then go to the standby blinking light, which in my case blinks 5 times. I looked it up and this means "T-Con Error". Now I'm trying to figure out how it couldve have went from working perfect to not even turning on? I starting double checking everything and noticed that there were 4 clips total on the top that holds the metal frame to the inside rack. I had only removed 2 because the others were hidden. The remaining two were laying directly on top of the boards that the LCD ribbons connect too, not the T-Con but the boards connected to it.

I know it's possible that could have shorted out those boards or the T-Con board but is it very likely? Any ideas what else could have happened and how I can test it to make sure?
post #147 of 158
Hey guys, I joined just to say thanks for this awesome thread, especially to OnlyTono. Sorry to ressurect this old thread, but I thought I'd add a bit in case anyone googles it to solve their problem like I did.

I ended up fixing the dim side/pixel refresh problem very briefly before I think I accidentally shorted the TCON board. I'm having the exact same symptoms as Dillon above now. The LED and sony symbol light up, but nothing on the screen, after about 10 seconds it goes to the standby light. I ordered a new tcon board and I'm going to try to replace it and see if that rectifies the problem.

For those who are going to try to replace the TCON board, this guy at http://www.gotosnapshot.com/myblog/sony-kdl-52xbr4-t-con-ub1-replacement wrote some pretty good directions on how to access it.

Will update if it works so anyone else checking this thread can have a reference.
post #148 of 158
For those of you who are trying to view NipRing's video, the embedded video seems to be broken.

Here is a link to the video on youtube as of Aug 21, 2013

post #149 of 158
Just want to report another successful repair of a Samsung set with a tab bonding problem.

My Samsung LN40A650A1F (LN40A650A1FXZA) 40" LCD TV was a hand me down from my father in law because it had developed some screen problems.

When I initially received it, the TV had multiple images, expanded vertically upon startup, which then dissipated after 5-10 minutes of warm up. We lived with it like that for 6 months. However the problem became worse with left half screen dimming and some number of thin colored vertical bands running down the left side of the screen. This new problem would appear after the set had been on a few minutes, and in the early stages went away after 30 or so minutes. We tried just leaving the set on 24x7, but eventually the second problem just stopped going away.

Following the examples here and also on badcaps.net, I purchased some heat conductive compressible foam on eBay (Thermagon T-Flex 6100 highly Compressible Gap Filling Interface Pad 47mm x 66mm) for $3.74 including s/h. I opened the TV and removed the metal frame on the LCD panel. While running the TV for at most 1 minute at a time to avoid overheating damage, I found that pressing down on the left most (as viewed when looking at the TV in the normal orientation) tab bonded flexible circuit, between the in-line driver IC and the glass panel edge, cleared the picture up for the most part. It seemed like the right most tab bond also had some effect on the picture. The 14 flexible circuit tab bonds in between had no effect on the picture when pressed on in various ways, so they seemed very solid. I cut two roughly 8 mm strips across the short edge of the Thermagon pad (so roughly 8mm x 47mm), peeled the backing off both sides, and applied them on top of the flexible circuits at both ends, aligning with the edge of the glass. In this position they partially overlapped the position of the inline integrated circuit, however I do not think the placement of the pads was particularly critical. I replaced the metal frame and tested the LCD panel and it had a perfect image again, which remained without any problem after I finished reassembling the TV.

A couple of minor notes.
1) I did "break and remake" the contacts on the cable from the main control board to the TCON board on both ends, and also on both ends of each of the four short ribbon cables from the TCON board to the signal distribution board. It had absolutely no effect on the LCD image when I powered it back on.

2) The metal frame on my LCD panel was attached to the LCD by the 10 smaller silver screws from the front (image side), and also by three screws (M4-0.70 x 12mm) black machine screws that attached it to some other metal frame parts at the bottom. But there were 10 other screw holes on the sides for attaching the metal frame to the plastic LCD frame that did not have screws in them. I decided that adding these screws could only make the overall panel more rigid, and perhaps reduce flexing that might cause more problems, so I purchased the additional screws (M4-.70x12 oval head Phillips) at Lowe's and added them. There were no problems with clearance of the heads when reassembling the TV. This step was probably unnecessary, but I thought I would simply let folks know that you can do this without damage. Don't use longer screws, cause that could potentially cause problems.

So thanks again to OnlyTono and NipRing and others for providing this information. Saved this TV from the landfill.
post #150 of 158

Hello. My dad and  were fixing our 46 in. xbr 4 just now.  We stupidly left the TV on when we were pulling of the last silver layer over the tabs.  I guess when we were pulling it up one of those metal tabs made contact (like how OnlyTono says in description to prevent with the wooden dowels).  So the picture went out, and now we have the layer completely off and the tabs exposed, with wood blocking the metal tabs from touching, and are unable to get a picture.  When you first turn the TV on, it makes the usual 'click', but no picture.  Even when turning it on and off you only get a click the first time you turn it on (probably not important information). So i guess we did damage to the t-con board like OnlyTono said? I was just wondering if anyone has any advice on what would be our next step.  I don't know if we can replace the

t-con board or something, just please get back to me.  


Thank you

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