AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › Mitsubishi HC6800 LCD HD Projector (30,000:1 on/off)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Mitsubishi HC6800 LCD HD Projector (30,000:1 on/off) - Page 15

post #421 of 1111
Quote:
Originally Posted by Studio2000 View Post

Its a snap with much less than a few seconds to transition from 2:35 to 16:9 with the press of an Apect Ratio button on the remote. I locked in my lens shift and zoom setting and the Aspect is still unlocked - This way no one can change my settings while I can just press the Aspect Ratio button. Easy fast and reliable. When changing aspect ratio, you have a choice and the info shows on the very top right of screen in black frame. Not noticable and changes ratio very quickly while watching a movie.

How do you lock in the lens shift and zoom setting while leaving the aspect unlocked? I just got my pj and still in the process of getting everything setup correctly in relation to my screen size etc so I have messed with the menu's a whole lot but would like to know as I am debating on going with a 2.35 screen size.
post #422 of 1111
ok guys, I just spent the last 30 minutes messing with my 6800 and finally have the screen size equal on both sides (well less than 1/8" off)!! Used my lens shift and its all centered on my wall and all ready for me to start the taping process so I can start to paint!!

Thanks again for all the help as me being a newb to PJ's this was a huge help!!
post #423 of 1111
todd03blown,

It is really easy. It seems like you were able to do most of the work and set up can be time consuming

If you go Menu>Installation>Lens Lock>Select OK>

Now you will see Zoom/Focus Lock. Change to ON
You will also see Lens Shift Lock. Change to ON.

Reason why I did this is I spent hours getting the PJ just right and my wife needs to be able to view movies easily without fear of changing something.

Youre Aspect Ratio needs to be set to Auto.
Menu>Feature> Aspect: Auto

Also set Menu>Image>Advanced Menu>OK>Screen Size>
CinemaScope for 2:35.

Now on remote you can toggle aspect ratio between Auto (2:35) and 16:9 by simple push of button.

This information was initially found by 5mark and tested by CT Wiebe. Works fantastic for CIH with Zoom which is what I am doing. Simple and easy.
post #424 of 1111
Quote:
Originally Posted by Studio2000 View Post

todd03blown,

It is really easy. It seems like you were able to do most of the work and set up can be time consuming

If you go Menu>Installation>Lens Lock>Select OK>

Now you will see Zoom/Focus Lock. Change to ON
You will also see Lens Shift Lock. Change to ON.

Reason why I did this is I spent hours getting the PJ just right and my wife needs to be able to view movies easily without fear of changing something.

Youre Aspect Ratio needs to be set to Auto.
Menu>Feature> Aspect: Auto

Also set Menu>Image>Advanced Menu>OK>Screen Size>
CinemaScope for 2:35.

Now on remote you can toggle aspect ratio between Auto (2:35) and 16:9 by simple push of button.

This information was initially found by 5mark and tested by CT Wiebe. Works fantastic for CIH with Zoom which is what I am doing. Simple and easy.

Awesome!! Thanks for the info!!!
post #425 of 1111
Quote:
Originally Posted by Studio2000 View Post

. Works fantastic for CIH with Zoom which is what I am doing. Simple and easy.

Studio you don't use the zoom with this method do you?

I thought once you create the zoom and alignment for the 2.35 image, you then lock off the zoom. The image is still zoomed out for the 2.35 image but when you click on the remote for 16x9 it just resizes the 2.35 down to 16x9. Really all the grey pillar box side bars are still there on both sides of the 16x9 image.
post #426 of 1111
Rapallo AV

Thats Correct. Once Zoomed in to my 2:35 size I lock the zoom.

You are right - when you select 16:9. It makes the 16:9 smaller in size. To tell you the truth I did not notice the black bars on sides. I did notice the 16:9 image being cropped smaller - like a shrink to fit.

I also did the blanking on the PJ and to me its pretty black. However I am in low lamp with Iris on 5 and in a very dark room.

I am still just amazed at this picture.

Moreso amazed that I build a 134" screen. Evertyime I walk into the room, I cannot believe the picture I get with this. I was using a 50" Samsung Plasma before this.

Dave
post #427 of 1111
Quote:
Originally Posted by Studio2000 View Post

Rapallo AV

Thats Correct. Once Zoomed in to my 2:35 size I lock the zoom.

You are right - when you select 16:9. It makes the 16:9 smaller in size. To tell you the truth I did not notice the black bars on sides. I did notice the 16:9 image being cropped smaller - like a shrink to fit.

I also did the blanking on the PJ and to me its pretty black. However I am in low lamp with Iris on 5 and in a very dark room.

I am still just amazed at this picture.

Moreso amazed that I build a 134" screen. Evertyime I walk into the room, I cannot believe the picture I get with this. I was using a 50" Samsung Plasma before this.

Dave

Have you posted a photo of your screen?? How did you built it???

I built a temporary painted screen with Behr Silver Screen Paint and a board from HD. However, it does not looked as expected. I tried a trypod based screen loaned from my brother and althoght it is not in good shape, picture looks better, so I think the problem is my "screen". So I am looking for options....

Thks....
post #428 of 1111
Quote:
Originally Posted by mariokrt64 View Post

Have you posted a photo of your screen?? How did you built it???

I built a temporary painted screen with Behr Silver Screen Paint and a board from HD. However, it does not looked as expected. I tried a trypod based screen loaned from my brother and althoght it is not in good shape, picture looks better, so I think the problem is my "screen". So I am looking for options....

Thks....

Studio2000

I see you are usign the Wilson Art laminate. Its bad that I cannot get that here.....

How did you buid your frame from..and the French Cleats??
post #429 of 1111
Quote:
Originally Posted by mariokrt64 View Post

Studio2000

I see you are usign the Wilson Art laminate. Its bad that I cannot get that here.....

How did you buid your frame from..and the French Cleats??

Mariokrt 64,

I will try and post some pics of my screen.

I did take some pics of it on my blackberry phone.

I built the frame from 1X4 Poplar with cross braces. The screen came out fantastic. It looks Pro to me and the border is in black velvet at 3.25" thick for the trim border.
post #430 of 1111
question folks - I just got done taping up my screen so I can begin to paint tomorrow. I am doing 125" screen size (down from my 135" original size since it was to large for the seating arrangement).

Below the taping area on the bottom of the screen there is an area that is about 5" wide that covers the whole bottom of the screen and up the sides about half way (only the side is about 1-2" wide) and its a faint light grey. Can this be removed or do I have something set incorrectly? Or does this have to do with the 16:9 stuff?

My picture fits perfect in my tape area in either 16:9 or 2:35...just confused on this.
post #431 of 1111
todd03blown -- That means that you haven't set the black levels (brightness control) correctly, or haven't calibrated your PJ at all.

Once you have calibrated your HC6800, you can make those black (gray) bars darker by using the HC6800's video blanking -- the "Shutter option" capability (see below).

-----
An Update & Reminder (edited from post #282):

SUMMARY: To use a CIH 2.35:1 screen with the HC5500/HC6500/HC6800 PJs, without an Anamorphic lens, perform the following settings (do not use any of the "Anamorphic Zoom" mode, or other zoom, options):

1.) MENU => IMAGE => ADVANCED MENU => OK (enter button) => SCREEN SIZE = CINEMA SCOPE(2.35:1)

2.) MENU => FEATURE => ASPECT = AUTO

To switch between the 2.35:1 and 16:9 modes, use the "Aspect" button on the remote -- "Auto" for 2.35:1 and "16:9" for 16:9 sources.

OPTIONAL SETTINGS (Video blanking of the black bars):

1a.) MENU => SIGNAL => USER => OK (enter button) => SHUTTER(U) = set to about 22 (increase until the black bar starts to cut off the top of the image, and back off by 1unit).

2a.) Repeat step #1a. for SHUTTER(L) -- again increase the setting until the black bar starts to cut off the bottom of the image (around 22) and back off by 1 unit.

-- The following optional adjustments can be used for video blanking of the "black" side bars for 16:9 movies:

1b.) ASPECT = 16:9

2b.) MENU => SIGNAL => USER => OK (enter button) => SHUTTER(LS) = set to about 53 (increase until the black bar starts to cut off the left side of the image, and back off by 1 unit).

3a.) Repeat step #2b. for SHUTTER(RS) -- again increase the setting until the black bar starts to cut off the right side of the image (around 53) and back off by 1 unit.

When going back to a 2.35:1 movie, be sure to reset the side Shutters (LS) & (RS) back to "0".
post #432 of 1111
Quote:
Originally Posted by CT_Wiebe View Post

todd03blown -- That means that you haven't set the black levels (brightness control) correctly, or haven't calibrated your PJ at all.

Once you have calibrated your HC6800, you can make those black (gray) bars darker by using the HC6800's video blanking -- the "Shutter option" capability (see below).

-----
An Update & Reminder (edited from post #282):

SUMMARY: To use a CIH 2.35:1 screen with the HC5500/HC6500/HC6800 PJs, without an Anamorphic lens, perform the following settings (do not use any of the "Anamorphic Zoom" mode, or other zoom, options):

1.) MENU => IMAGE => ADVANCED MENU => OK (enter button) => SCREEN SIZE = CINEMA SCOPE(2.35:1)

2.) MENU => FEATURE => ASPECT = AUTO

To switch between the 2.35:1 and 16:9 modes, use the "Aspect" button on the remote -- "Auto" for 2.35:1 and "16:9" for 16:9 sources.

OPTIONAL SETTINGS (Video blanking of the black bars):

1a.) MENU => SIGNAL => USER => OK (enter button) => SHUTTER(U) = set to about 22 (increase until the black bar starts to cut off the top of the image, and back off by 1unit).

2a.) Repeat step #1a. for SHUTTER(L) -- again increase the setting until the black bar starts to cut off the bottom of the image (around 22) and back off by 1 unit.

-- The following optional adjustments can be used for video blanking of the "black" side bars for 16:9 movies:

1b.) ASPECT = 16:9

2b.) MENU => SIGNAL => USER => OK (enter button) => SHUTTER(LS) = set to about 53 (increase until the black bar starts to cut off the left side of the image, and back off by 1 unit).

3a.) Repeat step #2b. for SHUTTER(RS) -- again increase the setting until the black bar starts to cut off the right side of the image (around 53) and back off by 1 unit.

When going back to a 2.35:1 movie, be sure to reset the side Shutters (LS) & (RS) back to "0".

Thanks for the info!! I also just ordered the Spears and Munsil calibration BD
post #433 of 1111
Lots of info on the websites (Projector Reviews and Projector Central) comparing the Epson and Panasonic, but little to nothing is published that puts the new Mitsubishi head to head with the Panasonic or Epson in a direct, in-person comparison.

Have any of you guys been able to view and compare/contrast the Mitsubishi to the Panny 4000 (or 3000), or the Epson 8500 (or 6500)?

Most of the comparison info I've seen has been theoretical -- i.e. based on the printed specifications (lumens,contrast ratio,etc.) rather than in-person comparisons amongst the 3 brands. My experience with projectors has been that the in-person viewing experience is more important than the manufacturers specifcations.

I'm most interested in how the "real world" black levels/shadow detail and contrast of the Mits stack up against the Epson and Panasonic. I know that the Mitsubishi is quieter and (I think) that the Mits is at least as bright as both the Epson and the Panasonic. Any other observations or info is appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Mark
post #434 of 1111
mgt6103 -- Art (www.projectorreviews.com) usually posts his "Annual 1080p Comparison Report" sometime in March of each year. He has to wait until he gets his "new unit testing crunch" completed -- he is about halfway through it by now. PJC has jumped the gun with their preliminary "Shoot-Out" last October -- http://www.projectorcentral.com/1080p_shootout_2009.htm. Unfortunately, they don't do a very thorough comparison and both PJC & Art are not aware of the 2.35:1/16:9 trick that can be used with our Mits PJs (I will have to send Art an email to let him know about it).

Unfortunately, the Epsons & Panasonics get the most press since they are the 2 most popular brands. The next ones are the lower priced models like the Mits HC3800 and others (the under $1500 street crowd). The JVC and Sony models are next most reviewed (Art's personal PJ is a JVC).
post #435 of 1111
studio2000, I am thinking of purchasing the 6800. Can you tell me the exact inside measurements of your screen and what size border you then have around it,and what distance you are from the screen. Do you have to rezoom at all when changing ar's or does the Mitsy memorize the zoom. Thx Leon.
post #436 of 1111
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lazz View Post

studio2000, I am thinking of purchasing the 6800. Can you tell me the exact inside measurements of your screen and what size border you then have around it,and what distance you are from the screen. Do you have to rezoom at all when changing ar's or does the Mitsy memorize the zoom. Thx Leon.

Hey Lazz,

1) The inside measurements are 57 in height and 134 in width.

2) I have a 3.25" border on screen.

3) Lens Distance is approx 16.5> 17 feet from screen - I re measured.

4) No need to change zoom or rezoom. All done with Auto and 16:9 Aspect Ratio Memory stored and triggered by Mitsubishi Remote.

Thanks
post #437 of 1111
Lazz -- I provided the HC6800 setup 4 posts before yours -- post #431. As you can read, no zooming.

Studio2000 -- It sounds like you have made good progress since we last talked.
post #438 of 1111
Has anyone tried adjusting the height of the manual High power, or any manual screen for that matter, to attain a 2.35:1 aspect ratio....so that by adjusting height one may be able to use it as a dual format screen???Will this be a workable solution? How the top portion of the screen will look...is there a posibility of some kind of removable masking...will it be necessary???

I recall reading a post of someone doing just that..but loose track of it...to make him same questions???

Santa/Zoombie...as HP users...can you jump in?????
post #439 of 1111
mariokrt64 -- That's only possible if your HC6800 is mounted high enough that you still have some vertical lens shift remaining, which can be used. It certainly can be done, it's just a "pain in the - - -" to do it.

You have to be able to raise the image up to the top of the screen with the lens shift. In my case, I am already at the maximum lens shift limit. I would have to raise my HC5500 up about a foot, or slightly more, in order to be able to do that.

The down side of that technique is that to fill a 16:9 screen with a 16:9 image requires multiple steps -- resetting the screen size from CinemaScope (2.35:1) to 16:9 and then re-lens shifting to center that image. The other drawback is that by raising the screen, you lose the top black screen border, which means that the upper picture boarder shines on the screen case -- a distraction (even if the video blanking, Shutter, is used). Painting the off-white screen case with a dull black paint would help, of course.

Using a larger 2.35:1 screen would be a lot more convenient if we watched a lot of 2.35:1 movies. Since most of our viewing is HDTV and 16:9 movies, using my 16:9, H-P screen is a better compromise for me.
post #440 of 1111
Thx Claus and Studio. I think this projector is looking like the one to meet all my needs. All I need now is to try and find a demo. I have seen the hc7000 and was quite impressed. The black levels were excellent and fast paced movement was quite good also- the two things that have so far put me off from most projectors. I viewed the pana 4000 and Sony hw15 and the image was nowhere near as good as the hc7000. Have you guys viewed the 7000 v's the 6800 Jason here at avs thinks the 6800 is slightly more improved. If he's right then I think I will be a 6800 owner soon.Thx Leon.
post #441 of 1111
Quote:
Originally Posted by CT_Wiebe View Post

mariokrt64 -- That's only possible if your HC6800 is mounted high enough that you still have some vertical lens shift remaining, which can be used. It certainly can be done, it's just a "pain in the - - -" to do it.

You have to be able to raise the image up to the top of the screen with the lens shift. In my case, I am already at the maximum lens shift limit. I would have to raise my HC5500 up about a foot, or slightly more, in order to be able to do that.

The down side of that technique is that to fill a 16:9 screen with a 16:9 image requires multiple steps -- resetting the screen size from CinemaScope (2.35:1) to 16:9 and then re-lens shifting to center that image. The other drawback is that by raising the screen, you lose the top black screen border, which means that the upper picture boarder shines on the screen case -- a distraction (even if the video blanking, Shutter, is used). Painting the off-white screen case with a dull black paint would help, of course.

Using a larger 2.35:1 screen would be a lot more convenient if we watched a lot of 2.35:1 movies. Since most of our viewing is HDTV and 16:9 movies, using my 16:9, H-P screen is a better compromise for me.

Thks,

I won't mind too much about the hazzles of changing the picture format. However the issue of how the top black bar willl light on the screen case bothers me....

I am looking at the 2.35 option...however the manual screen looks as the more economical one....if I can get it to work satisfactorily.
post #442 of 1111
Here are a quick pics of my screen I built for the HC6800

Thanks to Ct_Wiebe and Mississippiman for all your help.

This is a 134" screen at 2:35 Aspect Ratio.

Screen Frame:



Screen Complete with Wilson Art Laminate:



Lens of Mitsubishi HC6800: Very Solid and high quality:





Pics taken from Phone

Thx
post #443 of 1111
Quote:
Originally Posted by Studio2000 View Post

Here are a quick pics of my screen I built for the HC6800

Thanks to Ct_Wiebe and Mississippiman for all your help.

This is a 134" screen at 2:35 Aspect Ratio.

Screen Frame:



Screen Complete with Wilson Art Laminate:




Lens of Mitsubishi HC6800: Very Solid and high quality:





Pics taken from Phone

Thx

Your pix dont open....
post #444 of 1111
RapalloAv - Thanks - its viewable now.
post #445 of 1111
Studio2000: How about some screenshots.
post #446 of 1111
Quote:
Originally Posted by No Fun View Post

Studio2000: How about some screenshots.

No Fun

I would love to. Unfortunately All I have is my phone which is 3.1 megapixels. I can use a Nikon D40 SLR if I get a chance but dont know where to get started in taking pics in dark for best results. Maybe something I can learn

I will not even attempt to take screenshots with phone - Will not do it jutice.
post #447 of 1111
Quote:
Originally Posted by Studio2000 View Post

No Fun

I would love to. Unfortunately All I have is my phone which is 3.1 megapixels. I can use a Nikon D40 SLR if I get a chance but dont know where to get started in taking pics in dark for best results. Maybe something I can learn

I will not even attempt to take screenshots with phone - Will not do it jutice.

Use a tripod. I got good results using an f3.2 aperture and between a 1/2 sec to 1/13 sec exposure (ISO 100, used my camera's auto exposure, fixed aperture mode). The exposure time will depend on how bright the picture is (no flash, of course). Depending on the focal length of your lens, you should place the camera behind the PJ location. With a Nikon D40, you should get great results, since the D40 sensor has the greatest dynamic range of any of the dSLRs (I'm not sure how it compares to the latest Nikon models).

I don't remember what the focal length equivalence of the D40 is, but a 50mm equivalent lens is best (least distortion). I have a zoom lens on my Canon S3. I set my camera about a foot behind my HC5500 and just zoomed to the picture width. With your large screen, you may have to put your D40 even further back. With the camera on a tripod, you can set up the camera and focus on the screen with some room lights on, so you can see what you are doing. Then turn the lights off, so the only light is from the screen. It may take a couple of shots to get it right, of course. You should use your camera's remote control (or self-timer) to take the picture (so you don't "shake" the camera).

I used my editing program to crop the result to just show the screen. For posting on AVS, I resized the image to a 1024 pixel width (so the download times would be reasonable, per the forum recommendations).

You can see a, not all that good (the DVD was not paused), example in this post: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=932 -- 1/15 sec @ f3.2 for the HC5500 picture. I could have gotten better pictures if I had paused my DVD player (recommended).

PS -- It looks like you did an excellent job on your screen. Congratulations!
post #448 of 1111
Claus,

Excellent write up -

I will see if I can attempt this.

One again- you have been very instrumental in getting me to this point with my set up.

The HC6800 was a great decision for me and the 2:35 aspect ratio set to Auto is seemless, with the touch of remote to change from Auto to 16:9 is what I use when watching the top menu or watch trailers.

Great Projector - Deserves more attention in my opinion.
post #449 of 1111
Screen looks great with sturdy construction. If I understand your screen size correctly it is 134 inches by 75 inches.

Some where I read that the Wilsonart in its largest size is 144" by 60"--am I correct? If so did you piece the laminate together.
post #450 of 1111
Timetells

I corrected it. It is 57" not 75 - thus my screen is

57" in height and 134" in width. Remember the Wilson Art Laminate although it spec is 60" x 144" the height is actually 61". I cut the laminate down to approx 60" and with border took it down to 57" and 134 in width.

Just watched Star Trek this evening and I can ay that I am blown away by the HC 6800 image and the blacks were black.

Here is what I observed. Within the image itself, to me the blacks were black. This was in low lamp mode.

When you look on the outside perimiter of screen (bars) where no image is utilized or in end of movie where the credits come up, then its not black but more like a very dark gray with a slight blue hue. However most movies I watch does not show a total black screen with nothing on it, so to me the blacks are as good as it gets, especially within the picture itself - unless you get a JVC of course.

So thats my observation and question. While the blacks in the image are nice and dark, why are the borders more like a gray. The way I have observed this so far is that maybe the dark gray is intentional as when I look at the picture I know the Mitsubishi is capable of going blacker on the image.

I really felt like I was in the movie theatre. This Mitsubishi's image to me is vey natural and film like. Wow......



Thx
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › Mitsubishi HC6800 LCD HD Projector (30,000:1 on/off)