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Mitsubishi HC6800 LCD HD Projector (30,000:1 on/off) - Page 4

post #91 of 1120
Also, let me see if I understand the architecture of the memories of the 6800.

If I start with the Cinema mode, and simply change the brightness, I would store that in AV Memory 1.

However, if I start with Cinema mode, and then do the greyscale adjustments suggested above to get the excessive green push out, then that gets stored in USER1.

If I then want to take the USER1 setting and change the brightness, that would get stored under AV Memory 2.

Is that basically right?

Thanks,
Brian

** Update ** OK, I just re-read the Cinema settings post, and the greyscale adjustments were done in the color temp section, not the gamma adjustment setting.

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #92 of 1120
I am seriously thinking about this projector for my new theater. I have a 150" SMX material 2.35-1 screen. I know it is enough light for 16.9 120" but I am wondering if it will be bright enough for 150" in a completely light controlled dedicated theater. It is rated at 1500 lumens and I have been told that is is a light cannon at 120". Hmm. Just not sure...
post #93 of 1120
Thank you for the reply. Just one last question? Has the hdmi issue been fixed for the mitsubishi hc6800? I have read that many people are experiencing issues with it.
post #94 of 1120
Quote:
Originally Posted by zxlr8 View Post

I am seriously thinking about this projector for my new theater. I have a 150" SMX material 2.35-1 screen. I know it is enough light for 16.9 120" but I am wondering if it will be bright enough for 150" in a completely light controlled dedicated theater. It is rated at 1500 lumens and I have been told that is is a light cannon at 120". Hmm. Just not sure...

You might want to look at the Benq 6000.It has plenty of lumens for your screen.Also the epsons are quite bright.A 150" 2.35 is about the same really as a 120" 16.9 is it not'as for as square feet.That is all I can ad.
post #95 of 1120
I'm mulling over the significance of the HDMI issue. I've had 4 different BluRay player / Projector combos, and there is not one case where the HDMI connection was not reset (sometimes several times) during some start-up phase of the BluRay movie.

Now... If this is happening DURING the movie then that would certainly stink. I'm not 100% sure if that is what has been reported.
post #96 of 1120
briandx -- I believe that the "HDMI issue" refers to a different PJ, not the HC6800. It is always possible that some PJs might have HDMI issues with certain sources, TV receivers or BD players (especially older models that don't have the latest firmware installed).

As for saving various settings, I believe that the HC6800 has 3 memories: User1, User2, and User3. At least my older HC5500 does, as does the HC6500. These can be used any way you wish. However, if you want to switch settings, you will have to do so by going into the Menu and recalling the User memory you want to use. The HC6800 will come on with the last settings used (when it is powered off).

megashadow10 -- As I said above, I believe that "HDMI issue" refers to a different PJ (or a specific video source).

A picture from PJC:
LL
post #97 of 1120
Quote:
Originally Posted by briandx View Post

I'm mulling over the significance of the HDMI issue. I've had 4 different BluRay player / Projector combos, and there is not one case where the HDMI connection was not reset (sometimes several times) during some start-up phase of the BluRay movie.

Now... If this is happening DURING the movie then that would certainly stink. I'm not 100% sure if that is what has been reported.

I have never seen it happen during a movie. It always happens during the change from menus to the movie, etc.
post #98 of 1120
Quote:
Originally Posted by CT_Wiebe View Post

briandx -- I believe that the "HDMI issue" refers to a different PJ, not the HC6800.

As for saving various settings, I believe that the HC6800 has 3 memories: User1, User2, and User3. At least my older HC5500 does, as does the HC6500. These can be used any way you wish. However, if you want to switch settings, you will have to do so by going into the Menu and recalling the User memory you want to use. The HC6800 will come on with the last settings used (when it is powered off).

megashadow10 -- As I said above, I believe that "HDMI issue" refers to a different PJ.

It is 3 User Memory slots.

It is the 6800 I have had some issues with HDMI. However, it never happens during a movie, only between changes in format on DVDs where the warnings, etc are in 4:3 and then the movie is 16:9. It blacks for a second and then comes back on.

My wife recalls it happened with my Panasonic as well.
post #99 of 1120
OK, so the HDMI behavior of the 6800 seems to be in sync with my experiences. Although I would consider this behavior "normal", it is clearly not optimal. Hopefully someday HDMI will become seamless.

In reading the review of the 6800 in Projector Central, it seems that the default Cinema mode is brighter than my Panny 2000, so hopefully I'll only be using one of the three user memories.

One other question: Are you using normal or eco mode on the bulb?

Regards,
Brian
post #100 of 1120
Okay. Well, correct me if I am wrong here but are you guys telling me that this "hdmi" issue only occurs when playing DVD's? So playing blu rays shouldn't be an issue?
post #101 of 1120
megashadow10 -- From larrimore's description, it sounds like it occurs when the format changes and is likely when the HDCP (thanks to Movie Studio paranoia) kicks in. That could force a HDMI re-negotiation. If that is the case, then it might also happen on BD discs too, but again it would only be before the movie starts. I would guess that it would not be as likely with BDs, since they are following the complete HDMI protocols more precisely than DVDs do.

BTW, this is the first that I have heard of this kind of issue with any PJ.

Unfortunately HDMI is still a "work in progress". As I said in my earlier post, it could also be due to the way his BD player operates.
post #102 of 1120
This HDMI handshaking issue occurs with both DVD and BluRay discs, at least in my setup.

I've played about 100+ BluRay titles with 3 different players combined with 3 different projectors and it ALWAYS happens at some point during startup; I'm talking about 100% of the time

That is why I said that I consider this behavior normal, and no real reason to be alarmed about the 6800 in this regard.
post #103 of 1120
Quote:
Originally Posted by briandx View Post

This HDMI handshaking issue occurs with both DVD and BluRay discs, at least in my setup.

I've played about 100+ BluRay titles with 3 different players combined with 3 different projectors and it ALWAYS happens at some point during startup; I'm talking about 100% of the time

That is why I said that I consider this behavior normal, and no real reason to be alarmed about the 6800 in this regard.

I agree this is somewhat normal.

Originally, I had an Epson 6100 I was trying out and the Mitsubishi. The Mitsubishi takes a bit longer than the Epson. In fact, it happened really badly at first. However, I had the Mitsubishi on top of a ladder and had my HDMI cable stretched to the limit to meet it. That could have been the issue. Now that it is mounted, it is no different than the Panasonic AE900 I have been using for years.

If I set my player output to "auto", it is much worse, but that is because the system is searching for the optimal connection resolution. If I set it to 1080i and let the PJ deinterlace that, I get the same picture quality as much as I can tell, but with almost no handshake issues. If I set the player to 1080p/60 I get slightly more time to connect. If, I set to 1080p/24, I get the blanking more often as I think it is trying to make sure the PJ supports 24p before completing the connection- and much of the material on the disc is not 24p.

I have chosen to leave the player at 1080i for now and change it for BDs.

I do not think this has anything to do with the projector, just that ole' HDMI demon.
post #104 of 1120
I would agree. I assume that in your response you have already verified that the 6800 accepts 1080p/24?

I am going to try a device from Gefen that is reported to help with HDMI handshaking issues. THat will arrive next week, and I will report back then on my results.

In the mean time, I'm in that rare air of anticipation as my 6800 is on it's way and will be in my house sometime tomorrow

By 10 PM tomorrow I'll have a rough idea of how this unit works, and by early next week I'll publish my own thoughts on this matter.

Regards,
Brian
post #105 of 1120
And hopefully some pics to go with it.
post #106 of 1120
I'll see what I can do. I've never uploaded photos to this Forum up until now.
post #107 of 1120
Quote:
Originally Posted by briandx View Post

I would agree. I assume that in your response you have already verified that the 6800 accepts 1080p/24?

I am going to try a device from Gefen that is reported to help with HDMI handshaking issues. THat will arrive next week, and I will report back then on my results.

In the mean time, I'm in that rare air of anticipation as my 6800 is on it's way and will be in my house sometime tomorrow

By 10 PM tomorrow I'll have a rough idea of how this unit works, and by early next week I'll publish my own thoughts on this matter.

Regards,
Brian

It does a flawless job with 1080/24 on Blu Rays once the handshake is made. It also does the same via Vudu. Vudu's HDX titles are output at 1080/24.
post #108 of 1120
Quote:
Originally Posted by 02saleen346 View Post

And hopefully some pics to go with it.

I'll also try to give it a shot. I can use my Vudu or HD Tivo. It was a no-go with my BD player.
post #109 of 1120
Wow, that price is unbelieveable. I only paid a couple hundered more for the Mitsubishi, but that Panny price is unreal. At $1999, I have to wonder if Mits and other manufacturers will start offering rebates to get them in the game with that price.

I'd hate to take the 6800 back, but I'd also hate to have it for a month and see Mitsubishi stick a $500 rebate on it to get it in line with the Panny.
post #110 of 1120
Stupid question but what Panasonic announcement?
post #111 of 1120
Can someone explain to me what the projector does differently when the screen size is set to 2.35? When I do this and I am watching a 2.35 movie (even though it is on a 16:9 screen) I get a notceably different picture. It looks better to me although the size on screen looks the same as always (black bars on top and bottom).

What is the PJ doing differently? Is it simply using a shutter to black-out the area above and below the image and I am seeing the difference due to the black bars being completely black (this is what makes sense to me)? Inquiring minds want to know.
post #112 of 1120
Quote:
Originally Posted by briandx View Post

Stupid question but what Panasonic announcement?

The AE4000 with 100,000:1 contrast, FI, etc. is going to come out with an MSRP of $2499 and a MAP of $1999.
post #113 of 1120
And now, the several retailers have started selling the AE3000 for $1699 to clear stock before the 4000 comes in....
post #114 of 1120
Wow'The ae3000 for that 1699 is unreal.I feel your pain larrimore.I just paid 1599 for the epson 6100.But I am happy with the pic.Thought about calling PP and seeing if they would take the 6100 back'it has a 30 day grace period but I am over 4 hours.So I think the 6100 will stay.I like the sharpness of the 6100 over the panny smoothscreen.What to do.
post #115 of 1120
Quote:
Originally Posted by buddahead View Post

Wow'The ae3000 for that 1699 is unreal.I feel your pain larrimore.I just paid 1599 for the epson 6100.But I am happy with the pic.Thought about calling PP and seeing if they would take the 6100 back'it has a 30 day grace period but I am over 4 hours.So I think the 6100 will stay.I like the sharpness of the 6100 over the panny smoothscreen.What to do.

Someone once wrote on here somewhere to sell your old PJ in September and never buy a replacement until the end of October or first of Novmeber. I feel I should have taken this advice. I can now get an AE3000 and a good 2.35 screen for what I paid for the Mits.

I have less than 10 hours on the Mitsubishi (lamp indicator still shows 0) and have had it for a week (Best Buy says their return policy on Magnolia projectors is 30 days). I don't want to keep using it and then return it. I hate to see someone else get it home and it has hours on it.

On the other hand, I hate to see ME get something and see others pay 20-25% less 30 days later..... what to do indeed!

By the way, how can they know you are over 4 hours? Doesn't the Epson start counting at 10 hours as well (I think I remember that)?

Anyone here want to send me $400 so I can stay off the fence?
post #116 of 1120
AVScience has a 5 minute film on the 6800 on their homepage.

www.avscience.com
post #117 of 1120
I know that a projector's overall picture quality is VERY subjective, but I'll tell you my thoughts on this prior to receiving my new 6800 tomorrow.

I've owned a CRT projector (Sony VPH-D50 for 10 years), Mitsubishi HC5000 (2 months), Epson Pro Cinema 1080p (1 year), and Panasonic AE2000 (2 years).

I like to think that I know something about video projector picture quality after owning so many different models over the past 14 years.

I can tell you without a doubt that my favorite projector was the Mitsubishi 5000. Why? Basically, it had the sharpest, most detailed picture without having a "digital" look. The reason I gave back my 5000 was because of the infamous "banding" issue that plagued early models.

Ever since, I've been trying to get a picture that matches the 5000 and both later purchases have come up short. Basically the reason is that if the 5000 had a sharpness dial that went to "10", the Epson only went to "8", and the Panasonic went to "9". That extra sharpness made ALL of difference to me.

Since my HT is also my living room, I can never get a completely dark room. I can tell you that the Contrast Ratio and black levels of the 2000 were completely satisfying, and the 6800 will better that performance in all probability. A lot of the bells and whistles that the 4000 has are really of no interest to me. The 6800 seems to have all of the extra features that are important to me (Motorized focus, true "blanking" (not overscan adjustments), a fast, quiet Dynamic Iris, almost totally quiet operation, etc)

My bottom line is that I'll bet the 6800 at $2499 will give me a better, more satisfying performance than the 4000 will at $2000. Hey, $2K+ for a video projector is not chump change, but compare the performance I'm likely to get with the 6800 compared to my $9K CRT projector, the price/performance ratio of today's projectors is almost miraculous!

I guess by 10 PM tomorrow I'll know a lot more
post #118 of 1120
Quote:
Originally Posted by briandx View Post

I know that a projector's overall picture quality is VERY subjective, but I'll tell you my thoughts on this prior to receiving my new 6800 tomorrow.

I've owned a CRT projector (Sony VPH-D50 for 10 years), Mitsubishi HC5000 (2 months), Epson Pro Cinema 1080p (1 year), and Panasonic AE2000 (2 years).

I like to think that I know something about video projector picture quality after owning so many different models over the past 14 years.

I can tell you without a doubt that my favorite projector was the Mitsubishi 5000. Why? Basically, it had the sharpest, most detailed picture without having a "digital" look. The reason I gave back my 5000 was because of the infamous "banding" issue that plagued early models.

Ever since, I've been trying to get a picture that matches the 5000 and both later purchases have come up short. Basically the reason is that if the 5000 had a sharpness dial that went to "10", the Epson only went to "8", and the Panasonic went to "9". That extra sharpness made ALL of difference to me.

Since my HT is also my living room, I can never get a completely dark room. I can tell you that the Contrast Ratio and black levels of the 2000 were completely satisfying, and the 6800 will better that performance in all probability. A lot of the bells and whistles that the 4000 has are really of no interest to me. The 6800 seems to have all of the extra features that are important to me (Motorized focus, true "blanking" (not overscan adjustments), a fast, quiet Dynamic Iris, almost totally quiet operation, etc)

My bottom line is that I'll bet the 6800 at $2499 will give me a better, more satisfying performance than the 4000 will at $2000. Hey, $2K+ for a video projector is not chump change, but compare the performance I'm likely to get with the 6800 compared to my $9K CRT projector, the price/performance ratio of today's projectors is almost miraculous!

I guess by 10 PM tomorrow I'll know a lot more

Great points. I can't wait to hear your thoughts. In fact, if an LCD can satisfy you after a good CRT, that's a ringing endoresement for me.
post #119 of 1120
Hi guys,

I was looking to upgrade from my Mitsubishi HC5500 that I was sending back for a full refund due to dust blobs after only a few hours and found that I could get the new Mitsubishi HC6800 for only about 500 more than what I payed for the 5500 which seemed like a bargain.

I received it yesterday and fired it up but for some reason, something didn't seem right. The black levels on the HC6800 just didn't seem to be what they should. I tried everything in the menu to check I wasn't being stupid, auto iris on, lamp on low (the 6800 is quite a lot brighter than the 5500). My HC5500 was packaged up but I decided to get it out to do some comparison shots.

The pics are below, HC5500 on the right and HC6800 on the left. The black levels seem way off to me. The source is the 2 outputs from my HTPC. At first I thought it might just be the extra brightness of the 6800 so to make it fairer I put the 6800 on low lamp mode and the 5500 on standard. Do think it may just be a case of it being brighter so maybe using an ND filter might help? I've tried 0-255 and 16-235 levels with the appropriate setting on the projector and also tried changing brightness and contrast settings.



post #120 of 1120
Have you calibrated the black levels using a test disc? I know that the brightness was way off (far too bright) on my Panasonic 2000, and only after adjusting it with the PLUGE pattern did I get it right.
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