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*Unofficial* Mitsubishi HC3800 Thread - Page 191

post #5701 of 6366
Hello ive got the hc3800 and Sony BDPS370 bluray player.

Bluray player set to play 24p and watched the film The box and the judder in slow moving camera pan scenes were just awful.

Watched a few other films and noticed some slight judder, avatar played fine and didn't really notice judder until the credit's are scrolling up the screen.


Is this normal, have i not set something up right etc?

Thanks
post #5702 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Damrock View Post

Hello ive got the hc3800 and Sony BDPS370 bluray player.

Bluray player set to play 24p and watched the film The box and the judder in slow moving camera pan scenes were just awful.

Watched a few other films and noticed some slight judder, avatar played fine and didn't really notice judder until the credit's are scrolling up the screen.


Is this normal, have i not set something up right etc?

Thanks

You definitely have not got something right.... I use a Oppo Blu-ray player and a TVIX media player with my HC3800, both at 24p, and there is no judder. If you have 'fiddled' with the settings of the projector and the player, I would start by setting them both to factory defaults and see how it looks then before starting to change any settings.
post #5703 of 6366
For anyone with a large screen, I've spent a few hours attempting to find the brightest color settings that don't cause problems elsewhere.

They are:

User Gamma: Sports 10/10/5
Contrast: 0
Brightness: 5
Color Temp.: Medium
Color: 1
Tint: -1
Sharpness: 1
BrilliantColor: Off
Input Level: Normal

Some of this merits explaining. Sports gamma is the brightest of the three available gamma curves. Unlike the same mode on other projectors, it has very little green push. It's also good about adding definition to the blacks without messing with the black point. I compensated for the green with a slight tint adjustment.

Contrast sets the white point, in theory. Most of my tweaking was in the interaction between this control, BrilliantColor, and the input level. All three clip the white point in different ways. Input level does it in a neutral way at RGB 235 or so. Contrast starts neutral, but will cause a green push at higher settings.

BC is an enigma. On a gradient chart, it has no effects on pure R, G, or B, but brightens and clips other colors, including whites on a grayscale gradient. It only makes sense to have it enabled with the 'Enhanced' input level; with 'Normal' input, you'll seen posterization (banding) on the bright side of a gradient. You can fix the banding by dropping the contrast control to -12 or so, but then you lose the additional brightness.

For movies, my best results were clipping the input levels with 'Normal,' but then bringing up the blacks with Brightness so that pure black in a movie was mapped to pure black on the projector. That setting was ultimately 5. When I had Enhanced input with BC on, I ended up at -25. The results were similar, but the first way is less of a tug-o-war on the tone curve.

Anyway, on my 160" Designer White screen, the above settings result in a very bright picture, no banding, neutral contrast, and fairly accurate colors. I'm very pleased with it for movies. Windows itself benefits from less aggressive gamma, so that's a different preset.
post #5704 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by btiltman View Post

You definitely have not got something right.... I use a Oppo Blu-ray player and a TVIX media player with my HC3800, both at 24p, and there is no judder. If you have 'fiddled' with the settings of the projector and the player, I would start by setting them both to factory defaults and see how it looks then before starting to change any settings.

Thanks for the reply.

Just reset projector & bluray player and still does the same thing, even tried using a diffrent hdmi cable.

I'll see if i can get a ps3 to try and see how that looks i guess (sigh)
post #5705 of 6366
402 hours on my projector and I just experienced another random shutdown. It does not seem to be source dependent as it has occurred on component and s-video inputs.

This is probably the fourth or fifth shutdown that I have witnessed and my wife has seen it happen on at least three other occasions.

Has this been confirmed to be a firmware update/upgrade? I have notified the supplier last week and they were going to contact Mitsubishi. I still have not heard from the supplier.

I'd like to get this fixed while it is still under warranty.
post #5706 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Damrock View Post
Thanks for the reply.

Just reset projector & bluray player and still does the same thing, even tried using a diffrent hdmi cable.

I'll see if i can get a ps3 to try and see how that looks i guess (sigh)
If you select the Info submenu on the projector's on screen menu, whilst playing a jerky movie, what settings does it say? (Resolution + Horiz and Vert Frequencies)
post #5707 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by KnightRT View Post
For anyone with a large screen, I've spent a few hours attempting to find the brightest color settings that don't cause problems elsewhere.

They are:

User Gamma: Sports 10/10/5
Contrast: 0
Brightness: 5
Color Temp.: Medium
Color: 1
Tint: -1
Sharpness: 1
BrilliantColor: Off
Input Level: Normal

Some of this merits explaining. Sports gamma is the brightest of the three available gamma curves. Unlike the same mode on other projectors, it has very little green push. It's also good about adding definition to the blacks without messing with the black point. I compensated for the green with a slight tint adjustment.

Contrast sets the white point, in theory. Most of my tweaking was in the interaction between this control, BrilliantColor, and the input level. All three clip the white point in different ways. Input level does it in a neutral way at RGB 235 or so. Contrast starts neutral, but will cause a green push at higher settings.

BC is an enigma. On a gradient chart, it has no effects on pure R, G, or B, but brightens and clips other colors, including whites on a grayscale gradient. It only makes sense to have it enabled with the 'Enhanced' input level; with 'Normal' input, you'll seen posterization (banding) on the bright side of a gradient. You can fix the banding by dropping the contrast control to -12 or so, but then you lose the additional brightness.

For movies, my best results were clipping the input levels with 'Normal,' but then bringing up the blacks with Brightness so that pure black in a movie was mapped to pure black on the projector. That setting was ultimately 5. When I had Enhanced input with BC on, I ended up at -25. The results were similar, but the first way is less of a tug-o-war on the tone curve.

Anyway, on my 160" Designer White screen, the above settings result in a very bright picture, no banding, neutral contrast, and fairly accurate colors. I'm very pleased with it for movies. Windows itself benefits from less aggressive gamma, so that's a different preset.
I don't have a gigantic screen (98" DIY plastic) but I'll try your setup. I always have avoided the sports gamma as it seemed too bright but I'll take a look tomorrow. I love tinkering.

Thanks.
post #5708 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Talented Amateur View Post
402 hours on my projector and I just experienced another random shutdown. It does not seem to be source dependent as it has occurred on component and s-video inputs.

This is probably the fourth or fifth shutdown that I have witnessed and my wife has seen it happen on at least three other occasions.

Has this been confirmed to be a firmware update/upgrade? I have notified the supplier last week and they were going to contact Mitsubishi. I still have not heard from the supplier.

I'd like to get this fixed while it is still under warranty.
Have you been getting these shutdowns since you got the PJ? And you haven't yet sent the PJ to Mits for repair/update?

If so, then yes, Mits absolutely has a fix for this, send it in.

I don't know how Mitsubishi handles warranties in Canada, but here in the U.S. it's probably easier to deal with Mits directly. All we have to do is call the tech support #, get the RMA# and they will even email you a prepaid shipping label.
post #5709 of 6366
Guys need your help...I checked lamp hours and noticed that the lamp hour information displays 0 hours but when you go to the firmware menu, lamp hour is indicated in real-time. Is this normal?
post #5710 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by louise234 View Post

Guys need your help...I checked lamp hours and noticed that the lamp hour information displays 0 hours but when you go to the firmware menu, lamp hour is indicated in real-time. Is this normal?

The projector won't start displaying lamp hours until after the counter hits 10 hours.

From page 30 of the manual:
Quote:


When the lamp operating time is 0 to 10 hours, 0H is displayed. The lamp operating time exceeding 10 hours is indicated by the actual hours.
post #5711 of 6366
Well, my software is 6.0 after 2 returns. Now after about 70 hours of non-event, I saw a vertical strip of garbage on the right side, about 2-3 inches wide. Across the screen are vertical little waves but barely visible. Since the PJ only has about 95 hours, should I return for a refurb or get it fixed again?

Thanks.
post #5712 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonbud0 View Post

Well, my software is 6.0 after 2 returns. Now after about 70 hours of non-event, I saw a vertical strip of garbage on the right side, about 2-3 inches wide. Across the screen are vertical little waves but barely visible. Since the PJ only has about 95 hours, should I return for a refurb or get it fixed again?

Thanks.

Wow. Was the last return recent? The replacement Mits sent me (which ended up being a refurb) was 7.0 fw and that was many months ago (4 months ago?).

Either way, hard to know if the vertical checkerboard stuff was a fw issue.

If everything else is good with your PJ (focus, uniformity, noise), I'd just get it repaired instead (make sure you write down your serial # to double check when you get it back!).
post #5713 of 6366
Yes. My focus and uniformity are fine. Noise is same, though I was never impressed with the Mitsu's fan noise (HD1000 and HC3000 previously owned) vis-a-vis LCD models; serial number is same at the low in the 0002nnn range.

For the low lamp usage, I probably want to have it fixed again, but this is extremely frustrating. I would not upgrade to 4000. Never had problems with the hd1000 or hc2000; maybe it was good luck but it's finally catching up with me.
post #5714 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Murphy View Post

I don't have a gigantic screen (98" DIY plastic) but I'll try your setup. I always have avoided the sports gamma as it seemed too bright but I'll take a look tomorrow. I love tinkering.

For a 16x9 screen that size, I'd suggest Video gamma or perhaps even Cinema. The colors aren't quite as accurate with Sports; the present I suggested is really for people who want to use low-lamp with screens over 140" and an older bulb. The same preset with that one substitution is still quite good, though.
post #5715 of 6366
Have anyone noticed their Mit projector makes a high pitch sound while it's in operation. The high pitch sounds like the old tube tv when it's on. My projector is 9 months old already. Kinda annoying.
post #5716 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by omemnow View Post
Have anyone noticed their Mit projector makes a high pitch sound while it's in operation. The high pitch sounds like the old tube tv when it's on. My projector is 9 months old already. Kinda annoying.
Not here.

I assume it didn't have this noise before, just a recent development?

My guess is it's the color wheel. May wanna give Mits service a call.
post #5717 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post
Not here.

I assume it didn't have this noise before, just a recent development?

My guess is it's the color wheel. May wanna give Mits service a call.
Yup, it's just recent. At first I thought it was hissing sounds from my speakers. When the receiver is turned off the sound still persists. However, when i turn off the projector the sound is gone. I even bought a APC S15 power conditioner (I needed one anyway) to get rid of the sound w/o any luck.
post #5718 of 6366
I've had four of these projectors and all have the same high-pitched noise. It's fairly obvious to me and I've been exploring ways to dampen it without limiting airflow. If your noise appeared out of the blue, it could be a problem. More likely, it's the color wheel.
post #5719 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by KnightRT View Post

I've had four of these projectors and all have the same high-pitched noise. It's fairly obvious to me and I've been exploring ways to dampen it without limiting airflow..

KnightRT,

It could be that you hear high freqs better than most....are you young? Many CW whine pitches can be so high up the freq chart, that most, except for kids, won't hear it.

All CW projectors have it, it's just usually lower in decibels than the fan noise, and/or pitched so far up the freq scale that most adults won't hear it.

Of course if the CW starts to act up (bearings/bushings), the noise can get loud enough to hear and/or the noise can pitch downward which will also make it more noticable.
post #5720 of 6366
My projector just died after 12 months and a bit over 1000 hours use. I thought I had avoided all the issues but no.
post #5721 of 6366
What do you mean with died? Which issues have you avoided?
post #5722 of 6366
Yeah, a little more descriptive please

Maybe the lamp died?

If not, then it's still covered under warranty

And, I think this would be the first sudden death reported here, if that's what happened. 'Just died' hasn't been an 'issue'.
post #5723 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

Yeah, a little more descriptive please

Maybe the lamp died?

If not, then it's still covered under warranty

And, I think this would be the first sudden death reported here, if that's what happened. 'Just died' hasn't been an 'issue'.



Well as far as I can tell the lamp is good. Basically I went to power it up the other day and there was no light coming out of the lens and only the fans on the left side switch on, the ones on the right side do not. Then it powers down after a few seconds and flashes red and green led's on the power switch and red on the status switch, which in the manual under troubleshooting, says 'contact your dealer'. There is a different set of led's that flash if the bulb is dead.

I have checked the lamp and it looks o.k to me, I've also tried resetting it a few times but to no avail.
post #5724 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by nirvy111 View Post

I have checked the lamp and it looks o.k to me, I've also tried resetting it a few times but to no avail.

You mean re-seating the the lamp? (not resetting).

If not, try re-seating the lamp (take it out, put back in), and unplug the AC cord from the PJ for at least 30 mins. Try again.
post #5725 of 6366
Yes, that's what I meant.
post #5726 of 6366
U already contacted mitsubishi, what do they say?
post #5727 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by nirvy111 View Post

Well as far as I can tell the lamp is good. Basically I went to power it up the other day and there was no light coming out of the lens and only the fans on the left side switch on, the ones on the right side do not. Then it powers down after a few seconds and flashes red and green led's on the power switch and red on the status switch, which in the manual under troubleshooting, says 'contact your dealer'. There is a different set of led's that flash if the bulb is dead.

I have checked the lamp and it looks o.k to me, I've also tried resetting it a few times but to no avail.

That's the exact same thing mine did at about 500 hours. I sent it in for a refurb which has been trouble free for a couple months now.
post #5728 of 6366
Anyone have the phone number for Mitsu tech support? Need to send mine in for a refurb. Getting tons of artifacts when turn it on sometime. I then have to reboot it a fews time to fix the issue.
post #5729 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by truwarrior22 View Post

Anyone have the phone number for Mitsu tech support? Need to send mine in for a refurb. Getting tons of artifacts when turn it on sometime. I then have to reboot it a fews time to fix the issue.

It's in the back of your owners manual. For the U.S. it's 888-307-0309.

Check the back of the manual if you're in a different country for the appropriate #.
post #5730 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

It could be that you hear high freqs better than most....are you young? Many CW whine pitches can be so high up the freq chart, that most, except for kids, won't hear it.

I'm in my twenties. My hearing response extends to just over 17 KHz, somewhat above most older adults. I also find the high-frequency noises from refrigerator compressors a bit irritating. The HC3800's color wheel is in a similar range. It's a fortunate thing if it doesn't bother you.

Incidentally, I just received my free replacement lamp from Mitsubishi. Turnaround time from mailing the rebate to today was about 20 days.
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