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*Unofficial* Mitsubishi HC3800 Thread - Page 204

post #6091 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

I can't remember, but I think the best advice is to contact Mits support directly> (888) 307-0309 (ask for projector tech line if that isn't direct).

They can tell you for sure the latest firmware, and they might also be able to let you know of any service history on that serial # (if it ever went in), or if it might be marked as a refurb, etc.

Thanks for the response fleaman. I just did that, no luck, said the people I need to talk to are gone, yeah I know they are on the West Coast, he said all I could do was to email them and they would respond in 24-48 hours. Seller won't wait.
post #6092 of 6366
If you search 'firmware' in this thread, it appears that 7.0 is the current FW.

I believe my unit is @ 3.0. The early units were 1.0, etc. I don't know what the differences are between 3.0 and 7.0.

I honestly would worry more about other things than the actual FW, as that would be the cheapest thing to 'fix' (Mits might even do it for free, minus ship costs----but don't quote me on that!).

PJ's are quite unreliable vs. a TV (because TV's tend to be very reliable!), though most any of the issues tend to be in the early hrs of the unit. The thing you should worry about is the 'checkerboard of death', which appeared to be a hardware issue. It was cleared up in the early run of HC3800's, though some 3.0 FW units had it I think? If this HC3800 was only used lightly (low hrs), and maybe packed away for a year or two, that would actually increase the chances of it having the 'checkerboard of death' issue!

I would worry about a 'seller that can't wait', but that's just me
post #6093 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

If you search 'firmware' in this thread, it appears that 7.0 is the current FW.

I believe my unit is @ 3.0. The early units were 1.0, etc. I don't know what the differences are between 3.0 and 7.0.

I honestly would worry more about other things than the actual FW, as that would be the cheapest thing to 'fix' (Mits might even do it for free, minus ship costs----but don't quote me on that!).

PJ's are quite unreliable vs. a TV (because TV's tend to be very reliable!), though most any of the issues tend to be in the early hrs of the unit. The thing you should worry about is the 'checkerboard of death', which appeared to be a hardware issue. It was cleared up in the early run of HC3800's, though some 3.0 FW units had it I think? If this HC3800 was only used lightly (low hrs), and maybe packed away for a year or two, that would actually increase the chances of it having the 'checkerboard of death' issue!

I would worry about a 'seller that can't wait', but that's just me

It has 784 hours on it and has not been used for a while due to being relocated by the military and no where to set it up in his new home (according to him at least). What do you think, buy it or not? Mits told me that if it has any problem that the orig. owner must send it back otherwise if I had to send it back for checkerboard issue that I would have to pay for it.
post #6094 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by golffnutt View Post

It has 784 hours on it and has not been used for a while due to being relocated by the military and no where to set it up in his new home (according to him at least). What do you think, buy it or not? Mits told me that if it has any problem that the orig. owner must send it back otherwise if I had to send it back for checkerboard issue that I would have to pay for it.

I of course can't advise you on your buying decision(s), but if it has 784 hrs on it, it's less likely to have the checkerboard issue.

I myself avoid buying used PJ's with no warranty support. You can get a great deal, but you can also get burned if something pops up, which happens at a much higher rate than say a flatscreen.

To me it's still a gamble. Odds are you'd be fine, but the odds aren't as great compared to something really reliable, like a flatscreen. For a PJ, the HC3800 is very reliable, once it past the teething stages (checkerboard and shut down issues of the early units).
post #6095 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

I of course can't advise you on your buying decision(s), but if it has 784 hrs on it, it's less likely to have the checkerboard issue.

I myself avoid buying used PJ's with no warranty support. You can get a great deal, but you can also get burned if something pops up, which happens at a much higher rate than say a flatscreen.

To me it's still a gamble. Odds are you'd be fine, but the odds aren't as great compared to something really reliable, like a flatscreen. For a PJ, the HC3800 is very reliable, once it past the teething stages (checkerboard and shut down issues of the early units).

Thanks fleaman.
post #6096 of 6366
If I may I would like to ask you 3800 owners a question or two.

The one I just purchased was a later produced model so I don't think I will have the checkerboard or erratic on/off issues. Are there other common issues other than these that I should be aware of?

Could some of you possibly furnish me your settings as something to get started with? I realize they won't work 100% for me but I am just looking for some settings to play around with.

Are there any secrets, issues, or anything I need to do prior to set up, during calibration, or when viewing a movie? Many times there are things that can be learned on this forum about products that even the manufacturer doesn't know. I may have it professionally calibrated. If I do is there any thing I should tell/warn the calibrator about? This is what I am looking for here.

My room is not a dedicated HT but rather a family room which is most certainly not the best for acoustics but is the best I can do until I buy another house. Dimensions are 17.5' x 17.5' by 18'H. Due to ceiling height my projector will be mounted on the back wall 16'.3" from the screen. My screen is 138" diagonal. I assume I should mount the projector upside down (that's how my HC3000 is mounted now) as there is a ceiling fan right around the 12' high from the floor?

It is a DIY screen which I really like but I am thinking of buying a new screen so your suggestions here would be great. I have just a little bit of uncontrollable ambient light but not much. My screen is 1.0 gain, light gray, and I get a very acceptable middle of the day picture and an absolutely great picture at night. I know there must be some very nice screens out there for $800 or less that would compete with the big expensive guys like Stewart, Da-lite, and some of the other popular manufacturers. I just don't know who these guys are that have great screens within my $800 budget, please give me your recommendations here.

Thanks a million guys and have a great weekend.
post #6097 of 6366
Just wondering if you bothered to read any of the 6000+ posts in this thread? Many of your questions are answered there including settings.
post #6098 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregoryperkins View Post

Just wondering if you bothered to read any of the 6000+ posts in this thread? Many of your questions are answered there including settings.

6000+ posts huh? I guess someone, I don't know who, has time to read 6000 posts, I certainly don't, but I am trying to read the 200 plus pages (have read about 30 so far).

I just thought some of the nicer members here might chime in with their comments on the FEW questions I had. I certainly do not want to impose on someone's time and you certainly don't have to reply if you don't want too, that is your privilege, but to reply and insinuate that I should read 6000+ posts is ludicrous on your part to say the least. Please, if you don't want to answer someone's question/questions on this forum do not reply with ridiculous comments like this. That is not the intent of this forum sir.
post #6099 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by golffnutt View Post

6000+ posts huh? I guess someone, I don't know who, has time to read 6000 posts, I certainly don't, but I am trying to read the 200 plus pages (have read about 30 so far).

I just thought some of the nicer members here might chime in with their comments on the FEW questions I had. I certainly do not want to impose on someone's time and you certainly don't have to reply if you don't want too, that is your privilege, but to reply and insinuate that I should read 6000+ posts is ludicrous on your part to say the least. Please, if you don't want to answer someone's question/questions on this forum do not reply with ridiculous comments like this. That is not the intent of this forum sir.

I'm kinda nice!! Set bulb to low, Cinema, Medium color temp, Sharpness 1, Color 0, Tint 0. Contrast and brightness need to be set for your room with a calibration disc or THX Optimizer(until you get a cal. disc).
post #6100 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim McC View Post

I'm kinda nice!! Set bulb to low, Cinema, Medium color temp, Sharpness 1, Color 0, Tint 0. Contrast and brightness need to be set for your room with a calibration disc or THX Optimizer(until you get a cal. disc).

Not "kinda nice" but "very nice" I would say. Thank you Jim so much for that info and your time for sharing that info with me. I would guess that it took less time for you to reply than gregoryperkins and your reply was very educational as opposed to learning absolutely nothing from gregoryperkins. Thank you again and have a very pleasant evening.
post #6101 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by golffnutt View Post

Not "kinda nice" but "very nice" I would say. Thank you Jim so much for that info and your time for sharing that info with me. I would guess that it took less time for you to reply than gregoryperkins and your reply was very educational as opposed to learning absolutely nothing from gregoryperkins. Thank you again and have a very pleasant evening.

You're welcome. And set Brilliant Color to "Off".
post #6102 of 6366
6000 posts implies a lot of work by others, that's the purpose of having a post like this to provide history. There is a search function too, try settings, or is that too hard?

If you show some effort, there are plenty of nice people out here that will help you, including me. Most people indicate if they have read through the posts, it sounds like you are doing that now. Otherwise this entire post would be the same questions over and over again.
post #6103 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregoryperkins View Post

6000 posts implies a lot of work by others, that's the purpose of having a post like this to provide history. There is a search function too, try settings, or is that too hard?

If you show some effort, there are plenty of nice people out here that will help you, including me. Most people indicate if they have read through the posts, it sounds like you are doing that now. Otherwise this entire post would be the same questions over and over again.

If you want to help, as you say in your above post, then why not help, answer some of my questions. I am a long time member of this forum (1291 posts, double your amount of posts) so I know very well how it works, and I am not one who just gets on here just to run up the post count ,but I also do not, as most people do not, have the time to read thru 6000 posts.

The first thing I do when I want some help is to do a search with 4 or 5 key words in that particular forum to see if I can find the answers. If I can't find the answers quickly then I skim thru a few pages, skipping some here and there trying to find answers. If all this fails I then ask my questions.

I really don't need someone like you telling me what to do, I have already done it. Why don't you become a good fellow AVS'er and try to really help by answering some of my questions. If you don't know the answer then quit running up the post count with your ridiculous replies which have no meaning to anyone on this forum. Have a very nice weekend.
post #6104 of 6366
A problem you might run into is the total HDMI cable length. If it's "too long" you'll see lots of dropouts when running at 1080p60. The 3800 has a setting available in its "maintenance" menu for cables longer than about 6 meters (I forget the actual value) which can help. The maintenance menu (which includes other info like the bulb's exact runtime) is available by pressing several buttons simultaneously on the projector itself. Of course, I don't remember the button combination, since I haven't used it since I first installed the projector. It's described early in this thread. I do remember that I had problems pressing the buttons all at exactly the same time.

Since it has a fixed lens shift, the projector has to be aligned either with the top or the bottom edge of the screen. If aligned with the top of the screen, the projector has to be mounted "upside down" and the image reversed and inverted, which is done in the standard menu.
post #6105 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post

A problem you might run into is the total HDMI cable length. If it's "too long" you'll see lots of dropouts when running at 1080p60. The 3800 has a setting available in its "maintenance" menu for cables longer than about 6 meters (I forget the actual value) which can help. The maintenance menu (which includes other info like the bulb's exact runtime) is available by pressing several buttons simultaneously on the projector itself. Of course, I don't remember the button combination, since I haven't used it since I first installed the projector. It's described early in this thread. I do remember that I had problems pressing the buttons all at exactly the same time.

Since it has a fixed lens shift, the projector has to be aligned either with the top or the bottom edge of the screen. If aligned with the top of the screen, the projector has to be mounted "upside down" and the image reversed and inverted, which is done in the standard menu.

Great info, thank you Selden Ball. I appreciate your time and the info very much, have a nice weekend.
post #6106 of 6366
Would anyone happen to have a lens cover for the HC3800 projector that they could sell me? I know I could order one from Mits but their price is ridiclous for this little piece. Just thought someone out there may have an extra one they are not using and would sell it to me. Thank you for checking.
post #6107 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by golffnutt View Post

If I may I would like to ask you 3800 owners a question or two.

The one I just purchased was a later produced model so I don't think I will have the checkerboard or erratic on/off issues. Are there other common issues other than these that I should be aware of?

Could some of you possibly furnish me your settings as something to get started with? I realize they won't work 100% for me but I am just looking for some settings to play around with.

Are there any secrets, issues, or anything I need to do prior to set up, during calibration, or when viewing a movie? Many times there are things that can be learned on this forum about products that even the manufacturer doesn't know. I may have it professionally calibrated. If I do is there any thing I should tell/warn the calibrator about? This is what I am looking for here.

My room is not a dedicated HT but rather a family room which is most certainly not the best for acoustics but is the best I can do until I buy another house. Dimensions are 17.5' x 17.5' by 18'H. Due to ceiling height my projector will be mounted on the back wall 16'.3" from the screen. My screen is 138" diagonal. I assume I should mount the projector upside down (that's how my HC3000 is mounted now) as there is a ceiling fan right around the 12' high from the floor?

It is a DIY screen which I really like but I am thinking of buying a new screen so your suggestions here would be great. I have just a little bit of uncontrollable ambient light but not much. My screen is 1.0 gain, light gray, and I get a very acceptable middle of the day picture and an absolutely great picture at night. I know there must be some very nice screens out there for $800 or less that would compete with the big expensive guys like Stewart, Da-lite, and some of the other popular manufacturers. I just don't know who these guys are that have great screens within my $800 budget, please give me your recommendations here.

Thanks a million guys and have a great weekend.

Only 2 replies??????????????????????????????????? Please guys, out of the thousands of HC3800 owners on this thread surely some of you could possibly help. Please, help me if you can.
post #6108 of 6366
gamma mode = cinema
contrast = 0
brightness = -8
color = 4
tint = 0
brilliant color = on
sharpness = 3
color temp = user -->>(press enter while on user mode to enter the below values)

reference = medium
contrast R = -10
contrast G = 8
contrast B = -7
brightness R = 0
brightness G = 0
brightness B = 0


As for a screen I have a 108 DIY. The material use to be Dalite HCMW over my DIY frame when I had an LCD(about 5 years ago). I swapped out the HCMW for a 1.0 gain screen when I went to DLP.
post #6109 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post

gamma mode = cinema
contrast = 0
brightness = -8
color = 4
tint = 0
brilliant color = on
sharpness = 3
color temp = user -->>(press enter while on user mode to enter the below values)

reference = medium
contrast R = -10
contrast G = 8
contrast B = -7
brightness R = 0
brightness G = 0
brightness B = 0



Thank you very much Legairre, I really appreciate those setting as a starting point at least. Thank you.
post #6110 of 6366
Glad to help. Looks like your screen is a DIY too. If you go DIY again the material I use is very good and real screen materiel so if you want to know where I purchased it from just pm me.
post #6111 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post

Glad to help. Looks like your screen is a DIY too. If you go DIY again the material I use is very good and real screen materiel so if you want to know where I purchased it from just pm me.

Many thanks Legairre. PM on the way. Thank you so much.
post #6112 of 6366
BTW for cables the projector can be picky so go with a high speed 22gauge if the run is long like these from monoprice. http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...=10240#1024001

If you still have signal problem you can change the cable lenth in th esecret menu. To change the cable length go to LANGUAGE under the FEATURE menu. Then put the cursor on Language, but don't press it. While the cursor is on Language press "Auto Position", "Enter", "Auto Position" on the remote.

Be very careful not to change anything except the cable length.

Here's an image and link to the calculator for the 3800
http://www.mitsubishielectric.com/bu...s/prjcalc.html

I plugged in your room dimensions and mounting position into the calculator 'in feet so as long as you mount it at least 9ft up from the floor you'll clear your ceiling fan even if the fan is two feet in front of the projector because the projectors offset is steep.

You can just plug in the same numbers and change the drop down to inches if you like. The top numbers are ceiling and pole so you have an 18' ceiling and would need a 9 foot pole or mount it on a shelf 9' high. The bottom numbers are the min and max distance from the screen to the lens12.1'-18').

You'll get your best image with the lens in the center of the throw range so if you could mount it about 15' from the screen it would be in the ideal spot for image quality. If you can't just mount it anywhere between 12.1 and 18'.
LL
post #6113 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post

BTW for cables the projector can be picky so go with a high speed 22gauge if the run is long like these from monoprice. http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...=10240#1024001

If you still have signal problem you can change the cable lenth in th esecret menu. To change the cable length go to LANGUAGE under the FEATURE menu. Then put the cursor on Language, but don't press it. While the cursor is on Language press "Auto Position", "Enter", "Auto Position" on the remote.

Be very careful not to change anything except the cable length.

Here's an image and link to the calculator for the 3800
http://www.mitsubishielectric.com/bu...s/prjcalc.html

I plugged in your room dimensions and mounting position into the calculator 'in feet so as long as you mount it at least 9ft up from the floor you'll clear your ceiling fan even if the fan is two feet in front of the projector because the projectors offset is steep.

You can just plug in the same numbers and change the drop down to inches if you like. The top numbers are ceiling and pole so you have an 18' ceiling and would need a 9 foot pole or mount it on a shelf 9' high. The bottom numbers are the min and max distance from the screen to the lens12.1'-18').

You'll get your best image with the lens in the center of the throw range so if you could mount it about 15' from the screen it would be in the ideal spot for image quality. If you can't just mount it anywhere between 12.1 and 18'.


Thanks once again, great info.
post #6114 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post

BTW for cables the projector can be picky so go with a high speed 22gauge if the run is long like these from monoprice. http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...=10240#1024001

If you still have signal problem you can change the cable lenth in th esecret menu. To change the cable length go to LANGUAGE under the FEATURE menu. Then put the cursor on Language, but don't press it. While the cursor is on Language press "Auto Position", "Enter", "Auto Position" on the remote.

Be very careful not to change anything except the cable length.

Here's an image and link to the calculator for the 3800
http://www.mitsubishielectric.com/bu...s/prjcalc.html

I plugged in your room dimensions and mounting position into the calculator 'in feet so as long as you mount it at least 9ft up from the floor you'll clear your ceiling fan even if the fan is two feet in front of the projector because the projectors offset is steep.

You can just plug in the same numbers and change the drop down to inches if you like. The top numbers are ceiling and pole so you have an 18' ceiling and would need a 9 foot pole or mount it on a shelf 9' high. The bottom numbers are the min and max distance from the screen to the lens12.1'-18').

You'll get your best image with the lens in the center of the throw range so if you could mount it about 15' from the screen it would be in the ideal spot for image quality. If you can't just mount it anywhere between 12.1 and 18'.

One problem. You plugged in the wrong screen numbers. As I said my screen is 120"W x 67.5" H. You plugged in 8'7"W which only equals 103" in width, and you plugged in 4'9" which equals 57"H, mine is 671/2"H.

Think I'm going to bed now so I will continue the conversation tomorrow. Thank you, you have been great.
post #6115 of 6366
Hi sorry for the confusion I have the calculator set to feet not inches so I did it in feet. Here's the same thing except I switched the dropdown to inches. You said your screen is 120 Wx67.5 H. The 67.5 high would give you a 137" diagonal screen. A 120"diagonal is 58" high.
LL
post #6116 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post

Hi sorry for the confusion I have the calculator set to feet not inches so I did it in feet. Here's the same thing except I switched the dropdown to inches. You said your screen is 120 Wx67.5 H. The 67.5 high would give you a 137" diagonal screen. A 120"diagonal is 58" high.

Right, my screen is 137" diagonal. Can you post a calculator using a 137" diagonal screen so that I could see what my measurements are, than you again.
post #6117 of 6366
Sure here's 137" diagonal in feet and inches.
LL
LL
post #6118 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post

Sure here's 137" diagonal in feet and inches.
525x525px-LL-31487086_vbattach248506.jpeg
525x525px-LL-eea2c01c_vbattach248505.jpeg

Thank you again Legairre, you have been unbelievably helpful and I really appreciate it. Thank you.
post #6119 of 6366
Anytime, glad to help.
post #6120 of 6366
When I watch a blu-ray movie the resolution on my 3800 says "1080", should it not say "1080P"? If so how do I get it to show 1080P? I have an Oppo BDP-83 DVD player. Thank you for your help.
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