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*Unofficial* Mitsubishi HC3800 Thread - Page 206

post #6151 of 6366
Sometimes settings get reset, especially if you had a power outage or brownout, etc.

So, make you you check to make sure all the settings are the same. Including the cable length setting in the Mits secret menu.
post #6152 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by golffnutt View Post

Thank you Selden Ball. That was the first thing I checked. It was still set to 1080p unfortunately. Any other suggestions maybe?

I would cycle through the different Mits cable length settings again, to see if the one you're on is still the best choice.

Also, if your Mits is always plugged into the wall AC, I would unplug it for maybe 20 minutes, then re-plug. This kinda reboots it, but you won't lose any settings (I unplug my HC3800 after every use via a power strip, and have never lost any settings).
post #6153 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

Sometimes settings get reset, especially if you had a power outage or brownout, etc.
So, make you you check to make sure all the settings are the same. Including the cable length setting in the Mits secret menu.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

I would cycle through the different Mits cable length settings again, to see if the one you're on is still the best choice.
Also, if your Mits is always plugged into the wall AC, I would unplug it for maybe 20 minutes, then re-plug. This kinda reboots it, but you won't lose any settings (I unplug my HC3800 after every use via a power strip, and have never lost any settings).

Great idea. I will check everything again. Thank you fleaman for the reply and trying to help, I really do appreciate your time and consideration. After I double check everything I will Post results.
post #6154 of 6366
The only other suggestion I can think of is connecting its HDMI directly to the projector, using a digital audio connection to the receiver. Of course, this isn't a good solution, since (unless you get an HDMI switch) frequent recabling is a royal pain and can damage connectors.
post #6155 of 6366
Yeah, but he had it working fine before, so something went amiss....
post #6156 of 6366
Quite a few people have reported (in one of the Denon threads, I think) that a recent firmware update by Direct TV has introduced quite a few bugs. This might be one of them.
post #6157 of 6366
Well I found the problem and got it corrected at least for now. I took Fleaman's and Selden Ball's advice and rechecked everything again to make sure all video equipment was set to 1080p. The AVR was the culprit, some how the 1080p setting in the Onkyo AVR had changed from "1080p" to "Through", I changed it back to 1080p and all is well again. Thank you again guys for the suggestion.

Since I am sending the projector to Mitsubishi tomorrow to have them update the firmware is there anything else I should get them to check or replace? I know a lot of HC3800 owners had shut off problems and there was one other issue that many owners had that I can not think of what it was now, but I know it was quite common. I am on version 3.0 FW and I have had zero problems so far (927 hrs.), eventhough my projector is 3 months past warranty Mitsubishi is going to upgrade the FW under warranty. Should I send it in to get version 7.0 FW or should I just leave well enough alone since it seems to be running OK?
post #6158 of 6366
Hi Guys,

3 Quick questions. I have to replace my in wall 25' HDMI cable to my HC3800. Mine just broke at one end. It was a monoprice and about 4 years old. Monoprice has 2 very similar, 1 of them is $28 and the other is $42, only difference is that the $42 has silver plated wire versus copper. Both are CL2 rated, both are 22AWG, both are high speed, both are 1.3, not 1.4, I think, neither has Ethernet built in but I net Netflix and other streaming apps fine and I have no use for Live2, I only watch movies, as far as firmware updates I burn and use a CD for that. First question, is the silver worth the difference in price, the one that just broke was copper and video quality seemed fine to me? 3D capability is not of concern to me right now but later it may be. As long as it is high speed that is all I need for 3D, right? Does anyone have any personal experience with their new Redmere technology cables? Thanks guys for your help, please repsond as soon as you can as I would like to get this cable ordered tomorrow. Have a great evening.
post #6159 of 6366
I'm gonna suggest what I would do: I would contact monoprice through their online CS/tech and mention to them what you mentioned here, especially about how your monoprice cable broke, and which cable would be the best match to replace it. They might give you a break on the new cable (discount, etc.), in fact, they might just replace your cable for free, 'cos I believe they have a lifetime warranty on their cables.

Even if it was your fault for the cable break, monoprice has incredible customer service, they might get you handled regardless.
post #6160 of 6366
Thanks fleaman, I'll give that a try. Thanks for the suggestion.
post #6161 of 6366
I know you said you don't care about 3D (I don't either) but I think you'd need a 1.4 rated cable if you did.
post #6162 of 6366
Thanks 73shark and that's a good point. Down the road who know, I may be interested in 3D so yes I will make sure the new cable is 3D capable. I think high speed hdmi is all you need which may be 1.4, I don't know, maybe someone can chime here who is more of an authority on this than me. I am waiting on a reply from Monoprice on whether or not they are going to replace this cable under warranty, they have already replaced it once. The first time it just stopped working, the second time the connection on one end just broke off. It was their CL2, 22AWG, high speed, in wall 25' cable. I requested that they replace replace it with the silver version, if possible, because back in '08 when I bought the orig. copper cable it was $41 and the silver is now $42 and the copper is $28. Like I said they haven't answered yet, I just emailed them this AM, we'll see what they do.
post #6163 of 6366
Guys,

There is no such thing as a "1.4 rated cable". That is marketing double-speak.

The two performance ratings are "standard speed" and "high speed."
Standard speed cables are certified to carry at most 720p60 and 1080i30.
High speed cables are certified to carry 1080p60 and higher, including 3D.

In both categories there are cables with ethernet and cables without ethernet.

See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI#Cables
post #6164 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post

Guys,
There is no such thing as a "1.4 rated cable". That is marketing double-speak.
The two performance ratings are "standard speed" and "high speed."
Standard speed cables are certified to carry at most 720p60 and 1080i30.
High speed cables are certified to carry 1080p60 and higher, including 3D.
In both categories there are cables with ethernet and cables without ethernet.
See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI#Cables

Thanks Selden Ball, I thought that was the case.

Monoprice is going to replace the cable with the like cable I purchased originally which is the standard, copper, 22AWG, CL2, high speed, 25' cable. I wished they had offered me the silver since I paid within $1for the copper in '08 of what they are selling the silver for now, $41. Hey at least they are replacing the cable.
post #6165 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post

I've never replaced just the lamp, I always replace the housing with the lamp in it. Changing the lamp and housing is pretty easy and you don't have to take down the projector because the lamp door is on the top of the projector not the bottom. My original lamp had a crack on the reflector at about 1200 hrs so I'm using the free back up lamp now. When I buy my next one I'm probably buying here http://www.tvlampsforless.com/VLT_HC3800LP_p/vlthc3800lp.htm . I've had a few emails with them and they say the lamp is the exact same Osram lamp in the OEM with the housing. Price is right so I might try it. They also said it does say P-VIP.

I got a bulb from them as a spare. Looking inside the housing grill at the back of the bulb it says:
OSRAM
P-VIP 230/0.8 E20.8
Made in China

Is that what the original one you took out say?
post #6166 of 6366
I don't have the old lamp anymore so I can't look on the back. The 230 means it's a 230 watt lamp which is the same as the one that came with the projector. After a little searching on the net it looks like you have the original Osram bulb that the 3800 came with. Here's one of the articles I came across that talks about Osram being an original lamp manufacturer for Mitsubishi and the 3800.

http://www.opportunity-investor.com/articledetail.php?artid=925&catid=388&title=Mitsubishi+HC3800+Overview
post #6167 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by golffnutt View Post

Thanks Selden Ball, I thought that was the case.
Monoprice is going to replace the cable with the like cable I purchased originally which is the standard, copper, 22AWG, CL2, high speed, 25' cable. I wished they had offered me the silver since I paid within $1for the copper in '08 of what they are selling the silver for now, $41. Hey at least they are replacing the cable.


UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Good morning everyone. I tried very hard both in this thread and the manual to find answers to these questions but have had no luck. I got my 3800 back from Mits last Friday where I had sent it in to have the firmware upgraded. It appears I have a few things not working correctly (or dumb me doesn't know how to fix them). By the way I use a high speed, CL2, 22AWG, high speed HDMI cable from Monoprice going to my receiver (Onkyo TX-SR876, resolution set 1080P only), then 6' Monoprice cables going to the components, all have port savers.

1) In the information tab in the menu on the remote, the resolution, vertical and horizontal frequency settings are not reading out correctly. No matter what TV channel I put it on, SD, HD, etc., the resolution stays on 1920x1080 in the information tab, never changes from this resolution setting. There is no "I" or "P" beside the 1080 number. The horizontal and vertical frequency numbers also stay the same (Vertical 59.xx, Horizontal 67.xx) no matter the channel, (Directv top of the line PVR, HR 500-24, has resolution set to 1080P only). Also before I sent it to Mits this information would change everytime I changed the channel. Also an "I" would appear after the 1080 number in the resolution setting. before I sent it in for upgrade, now nothing. The "P" has NEVER appeared, however I have read this is normal. What could cause this, is there anything I am doing wrong? I even did a factory reset and no luck. By the way no where in the menu can I find the incoming signal on the screen? Where should I be able to see incoming signal information such as, "1080i 60, 48, 24fps?

2) Secondly, the firmware now reads 6.0 since I got it back (was 3.0 when I sent it in). I thought 7.0 was the latest or does it depend on the serial number of the unit, mine is 3169. Should I call Mits about this, no problems with the unit so far other than some handshake issues. I set all video component's resolution setting to "1080P" to eliminate this, helped but still doesn't work like it should). I was having this problem prior to sending it in also. Handshake issues are: when changing channels, sometimes I will get a solid blue screen, then screen will flicker on and off picture 2 or 3 times, then a dark gray screen, then it will finally lock in on the channel.

Your input and advice on these matters would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much for your usual and fantastic advice. Hope everyone has a wonderful day.


Thank you.

Golffnutt
post #6168 of 6366
Can someone answer this for me? What should the numbers say under the "Information Tab" (5th tab to right when you hit Menu on Remote) for Resolution, Vertical and Horizontal frequency? Should these numbers stay the exact same even when you change channels from SD to HD channels. My numbers are staying exactly the same regardless of channel, that is why I ask? Thank you for clearing this up for me.

PS- The resolution reads, 1920x1080. There is no i or p beside 1080. Before I sent my projector in for firmware upgrade it would show and i but never a p. Now it will not show an i or p, ever, regardless of channel or incoming signal. Can anyone speculate why it will not show an i as it used to? Thank you.
post #6169 of 6366
You answered your own question regarding channels... Quote "Directv top of the line PVR, HR 500-24, has resolution set to 1080P only". Your Dtv box is scaling everything to 1080p.

My 3800 never showed a 'p', it would just say 1920x1080 with progressive source/content.

It seems that you are still over analyzing every little detail and seeking something to be wrong, I know how this goes as I myself am a bit OCD regarding AV, but... these are great units so try to sit back relax and enjoy. wink.gif

Jason
post #6170 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaGamePimp View Post

You answered your own question regarding channels... Quote "Directv top of the line PVR, HR 500-24, has resolution set to 1080P only". Your Dtv box is scaling everything to 1080p.
My 3800 never showed a 'p', it would just say 1920x1080 with progressive source/content.
It seems that you are still over analyzing every little detail and seeking something to be wrong, I know how this goes as I myself am a bit OCD regarding AV, but... these are great units so try to sit back relax and enjoy. wink.gif
Jason

Thanks for the reply DaGamePimp. The only reason I have Sat. Box set to 1080P is for better handshake. I don't think it would be a better scaler than the 3800, do you? So if this is the case what should I set the Sat. Box to? 720P maybe and let the 3800 do the scaling, same setting would be true of receiver, blu-ray player, etc. right?

You're right, I try to be too perfect for fear of missing something but something is not right with the projector since I had the firmware upgraded or at least I think there is something wrong.
post #6171 of 6366
What resolution does everyone have their Sat. Boxes, Receivers, Blu-Ray players, etc. set to? Are you letting the 3800 do the scaling? If not which component do you have doing the scaling? Thank you.
post #6172 of 6366
I think that was discussed a couple of pages back. It depends. I let the display do it, not the stb.
post #6173 of 6366
Where and how can I find the incoming signal, ie. 108024, 1080i48, 720p60, etc.? Thank you.
post #6174 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by golffnutt View Post

UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good morning everyone. I tried very hard both in this thread and the manual to find answers to these questions but have had no luck. I got my 3800 back from Mits last Friday where I had sent it in to have the firmware upgraded. It appears I have a few things not working correctly (or dumb me doesn't know how to fix them). By the way I use a high speed, CL2, 22AWG, high speed HDMI cable from Monoprice going to my receiver (Onkyo TX-SR876, resolution set 1080P only), then 6' Monoprice cables going to the components, all have port savers.
1) In the information tab in the menu on the remote, the resolution, vertical and horizontal frequency settings are not reading out correctly. No matter what TV channel I put it on, SD, HD, etc., the resolution stays on 1920x1080 in the information tab, never changes from this resolution setting. There is no "I" or "P" beside the 1080 number. The horizontal and vertical frequency numbers also stay the same (Vertical 59.xx, Horizontal 67.xx) no matter the channel, (Directv top of the line PVR, HR 500-24, has resolution set to 1080P only). Also before I sent it to Mits this information would change everytime I changed the channel. Also an "I" would appear after the 1080 number in the resolution setting. before I sent it in for upgrade, now nothing. The "P" has NEVER appeared, however I have read this is normal. What could cause this, is there anything I am doing wrong? I even did a factory reset and no luck. By the way no where in the menu can I find the incoming signal on the screen? Where should I be able to see incoming signal information such as, "1080i 60, 48, 24fps?
2) Secondly, the firmware now reads 6.0 since I got it back (was 3.0 when I sent it in). I thought 7.0 was the latest or does it depend on the serial number of the unit, mine is 3169. Should I call Mits about this, no problems with the unit so far other than some handshake issues. I set all video component's resolution setting to "1080P" to eliminate this, helped but still doesn't work like it should). I was having this problem prior to sending it in also. Handshake issues are: when changing channels, sometimes I will get a solid blue screen, then screen will flicker on and off picture 2 or 3 times, then a dark gray screen, then it will finally lock in on the channel.
Your input and advice on these matters would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much for your usual and fantastic advice. Hope everyone has a wonderful day.
Thank you.
Golffnutt
Hi you're not going to see an "i" or "p" displayed on the HC3800 information screen because it doesn't show it. What you are going to see is the Input resolution of the source in pixels for example 720x480, 1280x720, 1920x1080. just make sure your device is outputting i or p and you'll be fine. As for the fps look at the "Vertical Frequency" it's displayed in Hz and corresponds to the frame rate being sent to the projector for example: 23.97 for 1080p/24 sources. In order to get 24Hz shown you must have a device that can output 1080p/24. BTW only a progressive signal can be 24Hz. If you're not outputting 24Hz the "Vertical Frequency" will be closer to 60Hz and display a frequency close to 60 like 59.90.

As for the handshake issue you either have the box or the receiver still not set to output only 1080p. That's why it flashes whenever you change channels. For the firmware version I don't know but they could have loaded the version that is best for the hardware in your 3800. My 3800 has version 4.0 and I've been had no problems.
post #6175 of 6366
OK, but I did see the "i" prior to sending the unit in for firmware update. But I will live without seeing the i or p. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't defective.

After speaking with Mitsubishi Tech Support yesterday they said that my unit required an updated board of some type, motherboard or circuit board, etc. which they put in. After putting this board in my unit required 6.0 FW and not 7.0. He assured me that after the work they did last week to my unit that I have, to use his words, the latest and greatest HC 3800. By the way this work was done under warranty even though my unit was 3 months out of warranty period. Thank you Mitsubishi and thanks you Leggaire for all your help, you have been terrific in sharing your knowledge and time and I am one who really appreciates a person like yourself. Thanks and have a wonderful day.
post #6176 of 6366
Quick Question.

If I set all my video components (STB, Blu-Ray, AVR, Projector, etc.) to 1080p in order to improve handshake issures I am having then how would I know which component is actually doing the scaling? Thank you for time and answer.
post #6177 of 6366
If you set all of your source devices to emit 1080p. then each of those source devices does the scaling whenever they get a signal (e.g. from a DVD) which is not 1080p. There's no way to know that's happening without delving into the information display of each individual device. (Sony Blu-ray players include their output resolution in the information shown when you press the Display button on the player's remote, for example.)

In principle, it should be unnecessary to set the AVR to 1080p if all of the source devices are upscaling as they're supposed to. Some source devices might have bugs in their firmware so that they forget to upscale after they've been turned off and on again, so setting the receiver to output 1080p is a reasonable thing to do -- think of it as a "belt and suspenders" approach. smile.gif (I've seen a Sharp BD player intermittently revert to Auto, for example.)
post #6178 of 6366
Thanks Selden Ball. Let's look at your reply.

"If you set all of your source devices to emit 1080p. then each of those source devices does the scaling whenever they get a signal (e.g. from a DVD) which is not 1080p."

In this scenario then the best scaler may not be being used?



"Some source devices might have bugs in their firmware so that they forget to upscale after they've been turned off and on again, so setting the receiver to output 1080p is a reasonable thing to do -- think of it as a "belt and suspenders" approach. smile.gif (I've seen a Sharp BD player intermittently revert to Auto, for example.)"

What if the AVR is not necessarily the best scaler to use, would you still set it to 1080P? If you have your source component set to 1080p AND your AVR set to 1080P which is doing the scaling? I am just trying to get the best video so I am wondering which of my components should do the scaling? Below is a list of my components, maybe this will help everyone answer my question.



HC 3800 Mitsubishi Projector
TX-SR 876 Onkyo AVR
BDP-83 Oppo BD Player (Used for BD and SACD and DVD-Audio CD's)
BDP-05FD Pioneer Elite BD Player (Used for CD's only)
BDP-S570 Sony BD Player (Used for streaming only)
HR 500 - 24 DirecTV DVR
Edited by golffnutt - 7/10/12 at 1:36pm
post #6179 of 6366
Which device is the best at upscaling depends on the details of the video processor implementation in each of the devices. Unfortunately, I don't know those details, except that the Mits projector's scaler isn't the best choice because of the problems which you've had with it.

Usually, however, BD players provide the most control over the manipulations that can be done to improve upscaled DVD video. FWIW, among current generation players, the Sony BDP-S790 seems to be getting high praises for its upscaling features when compared to most of the competition.

You could try comparing their visible quality yourself:

Test 1: Configure your disc player to upscale DVD video to 1089p. Disable any image manipulation features. Set the receiver's video processor to "through" or the equivalent so that it does no video processing at all, and just passes through the video signal unchanged from the player to the projector.

Test 2: Set the receiver's video processor to upscale to 1080p and configure your disc player NOT to upscale DVD video.

Compare the images that you get from one (or more) of your favorite movies and/or test patterns from one of the BD calibration discs which are readily available.

Don't bother doing this test with your satellite receiver. There's no way to control the quality of its signal. Some channels will be great. Others won't. And which is which will vary depending on the weather and who tweaked what at the originating end.
post #6180 of 6366
Quote:
Originally Posted by golffnutt View Post

OK, but I did see the "i" prior to sending the unit in for firmware update. But I will live without seeing the i or p. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't defective.
After speaking with Mitsubishi Tech Support yesterday they said that my unit required an updated board of some type, motherboard or circuit board, etc. which they put in. After putting this board in my unit required 6.0 FW and not 7.0. He assured me that after the work they did last week to my unit that I have, to use his words, the latest and greatest HC 3800. By the way this work was done under warranty even though my unit was 3 months out of warranty period. Thank you Mitsubishi and thanks you Leggaire for all your help, you have been terrific in sharing your knowledge and time and I am one who really appreciates a person like yourself. Thanks and have a wonderful day.
Mine shipped with firmware 4.0 and I don't think I've ever seen an i or p after the resolution. I wonder if earlier versions of the firmware had the i or p displayed. Anyone else get an i or p displayed after the resolution on their 3800?
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