*Unofficial* Mitsubishi HC3800 Thread - Page 209

Brightness - 1
Cont- 13
Tint 0
Color -2
Sharp +1

Lamp low
Gamma auto
Color temp custom with medium reference contrast R-9, b-4 .

Ymwv

Hello guys...and hello to DaGamePimp, I remember you from the old days of the HTPC forum....my 3800 has just recently started the vertical thin lines after 3200+ of lamp life. It seems if I tap on the front left of the PJ (ceiling mounted) it will go away. I did search dozens of pages but couldn't seem to find a solution to this issue....any final verdict on the cause or a solution? TIA

Anyone use a Black Diamond screen or of the like? Curious how it works with a HC3800.

Projector People currently has a great price on Refurbs of these projectors. Will this projector be a noticeable upgrade from my HC1500? Thanks.

Hi from Italy,
after 2 years and 3000 hours (low quality) my HC3800 failed to start.

Basically when I press the power button, the lamp starts to warm up and both the fans start to work fine

Then after 10-15 secs, both the lamp and fans go off, the power light goes from green to steady red and the status power light starts to blink green.

I tried to replace the old lamp with a new one 1 week later but I'll ended up having the same problem, meaning that 99% the projector has something wrong.

Looking in the user manual, red power + blinking green status I don't find any answer rather than pressing several times the power button.

Do you have any idea or test that I could run before I contact Mitsubishi and use the warrant?

That sounds like what happened to me a couple of years ago. They replaced the lamp and then the projector.

If you haven't already, unplug the AC power cable from the PJ/wall outlet for at least 30 mins, then try again.

After updating a video card I just started getting the random shut downs... Of course it didn't start happening until I'm out of warranty.

Does anyone have any ideas what is the actual cause of the shutdowns? Seems I can run at slightly less than full res and it goes fine. Can also run from a PS3 for hours and it runs fine. But from my PC now, at full resolution, it shuts down within minutes.

I'm out of warranty and don't have a service center nearby, so am just trying to see what I can do to get it back to running without dealing with shipping it away. I've put the old video card back in the PC, but can't get it back to where it was working... I've got about 1000 hours on it, all of which were pretty much problem free.

Any ideas?

It's probably sending a strange resolution to the projector. What kind of video card is it/was it?

What firmware do you have on the projector?

I have a htpc hooked to my setup. I use it mostly with the tv, but occasionally via the projector. It goes through a dual hdmi receiver.

It's on Firmware 3. Resolutions it's sending is 1920 × 1080 @ 60hz. It's the same resolution it had been running for almost two years, which worked fine prior to the driver change.

One thing that did seem odd is after the update I had to adjust the 'overscan' setting in the driver control panel (catalyst) to make it fill the screen. It defaulted to something like -10%, so had to shift it back to 0%. Haven't actually tested it to see if it crashes if the overscan is set to something like -10%.

I'm just not sure what could be different all of a sudden. I tried rolling back to the video card drivers to old version, but don't seem to be able to get the combo that I had in place before that worked fine. What could be different about the signal coming from the PC vs say teh PS3? If they're both sending at the same resolution and refresh rate, both running via the same receiver, why would the projector be shutting down when via the PC?

Is the shutdown immediate, or is it delayed enough that you could check the resolution in the projector's Info menu?

The shutdown suggests to me that the video signal actually being generated by the graphics card is not what you think it is. The overscan compensation might be changing what's being sent. My 3800 shuts down when the video source switches between several different valid resolutions "too quickly". It still has the original firmware, though.

Yeah, I have to adjust overscan every time I put a new catalyst version on.

I had my pc seemingly kill my Plasma, but I was able to revive it by unplugging. TVs are not meant to take pc input via hdmi. The front hdmi on the tv could though, but that was aesthetically unpleasing. I'm not sure what would cause your problem...

How is the pc connected, directly? If so, try vga and see if that works.

I have one of the refurbed original units that they sent me after my original one died. I think the firmware is 7 or something like that.

The bulb on my HC3800 just went out with a bang after 2300 hours (all low-power). Since I bought the projector used, I'm wondering if it's an original OEM bulb. The number on the bare bulb (not the lamp assy) is Osram P-VIP 230/0.8 E20.8. It also says it was made in China. Does anyone know if this is the correct OEM part?

I have seen a wide price range for this part on different sites. Any downsides to a cheaper one if the part number and photo match what I have?

Thanks,
Darrell

No it's not immediate. It completely randomly timed, which seems to be pretty standard for the 'shutdown' issue. I'll double check the res via the projector, but it certainly looks like it's at 1080p

PC connects to an onkyo receiver via HDMI, then HDMI to the projector. I could move things around and try a direct connect to the projector from the PC, then I've got to run audio back to the receiver though...

Yeah, cheaper bulbs tend to go a lot faster. I would try to get an oem bulb.

I meant to see if you get the shutdown problem, it's not a good long term solution.

I wonder if you can limit the resolutions the pc sends to the projector in case it's sending something funny.

Thanks Gregory...do you know the part number of the OEM bare bulb? I don't know if the one that blew is OEM or not. The user manual only lists the p/n of the lamp assembly.

Thanks,
Darrell

I think that's how they come. When mine died, they sent me a new lamp assembly, but was not a bad bulb, just a bad unit.

As an update to my post on 9/19/12 regarding the "checkerboard of death issue" I was experiencing. . .Mitsubishi covered the repair even though the unit was out of warranty. I believe they did this because I had sent the unit in repair for the same problem while the it was still under warranty and I stated that very clearly in the letter that I included in the box. Regardless of the reason, I'm grateful that they covered the repair and the checkerboard issue has been fixed.

Again.

Yes Osram P-VIP 230/0.8 E20.8 is the original OEM bulb in the HC3800 lamp housing.

I´ve collected different configurations (some may be incomplete though..). Of course they are all context dependent, but can be worth a try, The document is editable by anyone so please feel free to add information.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiFlWHuIk-OwdE9tTld5NkhWY1FFVFJmeHR5OEVtQ0E

Hi Guys & Happy Holidays,

I'm going to be buying a new lamp for my Mitssubishi HC 3800 soon. Just wondering, since it is considerably cheaper to buy just the bulb versul bulb with housing, is it very difficult to remove and install the bulb fron and into my existing housing. Of course I only want to buy the original Osram lamp. Anyone done just a lamp replacement versus lamp & housing in one replacement? Please let me know what you think? Thank you so much.

ANYONE out there that could maybe help me out here, would really appreciate it if you could?????

I haven't replaced my lamp yet, plus I still have the extra lamp (from the free lamp rebate deal), but perhaps ask this question in the HC4000 threads too, as I believe it's the same lamp....

Sorry, I can't help.

My projector is still on its original bulb. My current plan is to take the projector to the AV store where I bought it and have them replace the bulb when that becomes necessary. (Unless I decide to get a different model projector by then, either 3D or 4K.)

Thanks Selden Ball for replying.

Thanks fleaman for at replying, I will give the hc 4000 thread a shot as you suggested.

Nice work to get some of the cals in a tidy package.

I have Jason's (da game pimp) and Art's on 2 presets and the other preset at factory setting with Contrast/Brightness at -5. All look good with slight differences.

I've finally come to the conclusion that after painting my walls and ceiling VERY dark gray, I don't need to boost the Contrast/Brightness but rather turn them down, regardless of what the 709 cal disk says (contrast +23, Bright +8) which is blindingly bright. It's likely my incompetence as everyone else seems to find it great.