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Official Sony VPL-HW15 Thread - Page 6

post #151 of 678
I just wonder if the JVC Lcos have this panel alignment function or not. If not, then how do they align it.
post #152 of 678
JVC correction is at pixel level. You only can shift entire pixels, not only part of it like with Sony.
post #153 of 678
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonHoyaFan View Post

Another Urban Legend. A member did tests on his HW10 and provided data that proved that sub pixel shifts improved the image
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post15940508

I would have to be able to compare an HW10 or HW15 with perfect or close to perfect convergence with one that needs adjustment. Also, the amount of adjustment each unit needs will differ and that should vary the results. How much adjustment did the above owner need?

I saw an HW10 which needs some adjustment, I can't remember how much, and the picture appeared to look fairly good. Not the sharpest I've ever seen, but again, hard to compare just looking at the one unit.

I wouldn't be surprised if some have said that the adjustment affects the sharpness and/or image quality somewhat. At this point, it's hard to say how important this is. It would be more useful to find out whether HW10/HW15 owners have good convergence out of the box, or whether they had to use adjustment, if so, how much, and what was the end result in each case.
post #154 of 678
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpc View Post

...I wouldn't be surprised if some have said that the adjustment affects the sharpness and/or image quality somewhat...

I don't know of anyone who has done the comparison say that the sub pixel adjustment is not an improvement. Most of the posts are like nightfly85's which are second or third generation hearsay. If you trace it back in most cases the original poster has not ever seen or done a comparison. Their negative impression is based on their (mis) understanding of the tech

Here is the real question. If you have a 3 chip with < 0.5 pixel of MC does the Sony subpixel feature result in better PQ than no adjustment? The answer for video material is a resounding yes!
post #155 of 678
Trying out my new HW15... noticed something strange. I ceiling-mounted it with the same bracked I had on my HS-20, and in the same location. However, unlike my HS-20, to fill the screen with the image, this projector has to be aimed not straight ahead but something that looks to be about 10 degrees downwards.

This gives me a non-rectangular image, wider at the bottom. This seems to mean (if I am right) that I will have to use the vertical keystone adjustment. Right? Why didn't I have to do that with the HS-20? Furthermore, I don't want the image to be touched by some puny digital keystone adjuster algorithm, which I would imaging would be going on if I change that setting from 0 to anything else.

Might I venture to ask: WTF? Or, more precisely, is this a projector for leaving on a coffee table or, more likely, I'm just a noob and should RTFM?

(Oh, one more thing, tagged on like the government does to bills: if I want my image untouched by any internal scaler, which image mode do I put it in? Normal or Full?)

First impressions (have not tried anything yet) -- quiet, blacks are very good, though still not completely black so there is room for improvement but at this point hey, what an upgrade! (in black light-controlled room with low-gain grey screen).
post #156 of 678
Er, who posted that? Boy do I feel silly. I did check the manual, and noticed I hadn't yet removed the plastic protector sheet, which was hiding... the lens shift knobs. Those are wicked cool (and were adjusted completely the opposite of what they should have been). Back to the properly rectangular screen. With those knobs I won't have to fiddle with the settings of my projector mount bracket.

Oh, and using test patterns I determined 'full' was the right setting for 1:1 pixel mapping with the source.

Sorry for the noise. Was just excited
post #157 of 678
I just got my unit 2 days ago n am as excited as you are, watching it into midnight yesterday.

WOW, what a sharp n clean picture !!!
post #158 of 678
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonHoyaFan View Post

I don't know of anyone who has done the comparison say that the sub pixel adjustment is not an improvement. Most of the posts are like nightfly85's which are second or third generation hearsay. If you trace it back in most cases the original poster has not ever seen or done a comparison. Their negative impression is based on their (mis) understanding of the tech

Here is the real question. If you have a 3 chip with < 0.5 pixel of MC does the Sony subpixel feature result in better PQ than no adjustment? The answer for video material is a resounding yes!

I won't call it hearsay, rather "opinion" is better. And truly my comments were just passing along another's in hopes of presenting relevant opinions in one location, i.e. this thread and I would consider Jason Turk an PJ expert - he may not have direct experience with a particular model - but he likely talks to other experts who do.

FWIW - that's how it was presented.

I found it valuable info as I was/am considering this PJ - and consider panel alignment a big issue - but it makes sense that for a hardware issue, you can't only do so much in software.
post #159 of 678
Until there is some concrete evidence that this Panel alignment feature is interfering the picture quality of the unit, otherwise this whole argument is meaningless.
post #160 of 678
Here's my first impressions of the VPL-HW15, coming from one who had a Sony HS-20 for 5.5 years. Room is a dedicated home theater room that is completely sound insulated and silent, black paint, grey floors, black rugs, low ambient light, grey fixed screen. Room is 15.5"x19.5", projector about 16" away from the screen, ceiling mounted.

I run the projector in low lamp mode, Auto Iris (yes, I prefer it), Gamma 4, calibrated with the Digital Video Essentials Blu-Ray (it was almost fine out of the box). Source is an HTPC outputing 1920x1080 and I have confirmed perfect 1:1 pixel reproduction from the player software.

- Blacks are significantly better than the HS-20. But, not totally black even on the grey screen. While there is room for improvement (leaving the door open for another upgrade in 5-10 years), they are no longer a cause for concern for me. Sure, they could be totally black, but no complaints anyway, very dark.

- Noise level, very quiet, but still room for improvement, we can hear it, it could be quieter, but not complaining. The noise floor in this room is definitely acceptable now, but again the door is open for another upgrade eventually.

- Contrast: Wow.

- Brightness: No complaints here! Low lamp mode is great.

- Judder/Motion artifacts: Haven't noticed any yet.

Overall, quite the upgrade, but not perfect. I expect I will keep it longer than the previous one.
post #161 of 678
Which picture Mode did you choose ?

I find the 'Standard' a bit bright, the color temp. is about right n raising all the smaller detail but the Black level is too grey for me.

Then I tried the 'Cinema', the picture became a bit too yellow(or brown) on skin tone but the Black level is good.

Did you see any difference between Auto Iris 1 n 2 ?

What kind of screen do you use while I am using a 92" Stewart white screen with 1.3 gain, sitting 12ft. away.

The picture is very 3-D n I have to say the Black level is good even when I came from a Mit. HC3100 DLP(Darkchip 3) projector.
post #162 of 678
Using Cinema mode. Will not try Iris 2, we don't notice Iris 1 which is more aggressive, so sticking with that.

My screen is 120" grey screen (Draper Hi-Def Grey... might be good, might suck, I can't tell...)

By the way, for the panel alignment, from my quick observation, I would guess that it is actual physical panel alignment going on as opposed to a digital solution, however, the fact that there is an "off" setting would lead me to think that I'm wrong...

Odi
post #163 of 678
Did you use the panel alignment ? I afraid I am gonna mess it up.
post #164 of 678
I experimented with the panel alignment feature and determined that it was already as good as it would get with the H = 0 and V = 0 default settings.
post #165 of 678
When do people usually have the first calibration on their new projector ?

After 50 hours or 100 hours or sooner ?
post #166 of 678
If you are paying for calibration, I'd say wait until about the 100 hour mark. I'm the DIY kind, and not that patient, so after flipping through the standard settings right out of the box, I usually pull out the meters and start calibrating after the first few movies (if I even wait that long) to get a baseline calibration (and of course some measurements ).

I find that while the colors tend to shift a little between 10-100 hours, the previous calibration is very helpful in terms of knowing what to expect, learning the projectors controls, and knowing what to look for and ask about (as far as calibration goes) on the forums in the meanwhile.
post #167 of 678
Thanks for your advice Seth. If I am using those calibration disc to do it, which one is the simpliest to use. Thanks.
post #168 of 678
There's a pretty good calibration forum here with a lot of info, you can learn a lot if you are interested in calibration. The software I use the most is HCFR (free), plus some custom spreadsheets. There are some good free test pattern discs that you can find in the calibration forum as well. Real calibration requires a colorimeter, a hardware device that can measure the picture being thrown - that's what HCFR and the commercial alternatives use. For a starting device, an 'eye one' or i1 device (formerly made by GretagMacbeth, now called X-Rite) that is supported by HCFR is a good start, some people also like the
Datacolor Spyders.

It has been a while since I used AVIA and DVE HD (calibration discs for sale in many locations) and of those I preferred DVE HD. These did not require colorimeters, so they can only go so far, but they have a lot of test patters, advice and help you dial in grayscale, etc.
post #169 of 678
I do have the SpyderTV(for projector) but don't like the picture after the calibration. Maybe I should ask other friend with better gear to help me out on this.

Thanks again for the pointer.
post #170 of 678
Hi Sethk,

Can I ask you one more question before calibrating the HW15 ? I am using a 92" Stewart 130 screen with 1.3 gain, sitting 12ft. away in a pretty dark room. Should I set the Lamp at Low or High mode before the calibration start ?

From a point of extending the life span on the lamp, I know the low mode would be the right choice. If it is purely based on picture quality, which mode should I choose initially ?

Thanks again for your input !!!
post #171 of 678
Has anybody compared the VW85? Were you tempted to upgrade to the higher level of the 85? Sharpness, black levels and contrast obviously less impressive with the 15?
post #172 of 678
Hi,

Does anyone know where I can find a documentation of the RS-232 commands that the HW15 supports? I've asked the Sony support, but I haven't received any answers.
post #173 of 678
Anybody do any of their own testing for lumen output. I have seen 3 different online reviewers with 3 fairly different lumen claims. Projector review had it at 536 mid zoom. Projectorcentral had it at 830 max zoom, but no mention of pre or post calibration, and avforum.no had it at over 1000 calibrated.

Very confusing. I'm just looking for a high contrast PJ that will do a 138" diag unity gain screen well. I have the BenQ w6000 at the moment, but it may be going back.

Thanks,
Bricktop
post #174 of 678
In the Projectorreviews.com review, it did mention about the basic setting on this unit n show the RGB gain n bias figures.

Did anybody know how to get into that ? Is it thru the 'Service Menu' ? If Yes, please advise which button to push on the remote or unit. Thanks.
post #175 of 678
Is HW15 a clear improvement over HW10?

In terms of image quality, black level and other aspects?

As a HW10 owner, can I clearly feel the difference if I buy HW15? Is it worth for the money?
post #176 of 678
Quote:
Originally Posted by ddnathan View Post

Is HW15 a clear improvement over HW10?

In terms of image quality, black level and other aspects?

As a HW10 owner, can I clearly feel the difference if I buy HW15? Is it worth for the money?

I do not know the definitive answer to your question - BUT - There
are some reviews here that might HELP answer that question.
post #177 of 678
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

I do not know the definitive answer to your question - BUT - There
are some reviews here that might HELP answer that question.

Thank you!!!
post #178 of 678
Hi Fellas,

Well, I just joined the crowd... bought the VLP-HW15 from crutchfield about 20 minutes ago... $2799 no interest for 24 months, payments about $90 a month...

I'm hoping to sell my old Sharp XV-Z2000 720p projector, with a spare bulb for $1500 to take a big bite out the new Sony...

Anyway,

Quick question... I have a ceiling mount from B&H photo... it looks like the one here:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...t_for_the.html

I don't recall if this was a universal mount or not... it was for the Sharp, but I'm wondering if it would fit the Sony too?

Anybody have any experience?
post #179 of 678
The mount you show doesn't look too flexiable since the 3 mounting holes on the HW15 is in triangular shape. I bet Crutchfield should sell one that fits.
post #180 of 678
I bet I can get two holes lined up, as for the 3rd, It may be as easy as simply drilling a 3rd hole? (assuming the threads on the bolts are the same/universal?)
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