Official Sony VPL-HW15 Thread - Page 15

I agree... I don't think you can valuate a projector based on the difference in MSRP and street price... Given the LCoS technology and quality of these projectors, I would have paid the $2999 (although I'm glad I jumped on the deals last week!) If someone doesn't see the value in this projector, they don't have to buy it, as I or anyone else could save some money and pick up the Epson or Panny, but I tell you what, after you get past the initial hype when they were released, you start hearing about the quality and image issues... Like anyone else, I'd love to get this great of a projector for even less money, but I'm definitely happy with my purchase!

Oh, and Darren, my installer ordered the Sanus VMPR1, should come in today and I'll report back with the ease of install.

Cannot agree more with Wil's comment. Especially when the HW15 is 10-15% lower in price than Epson n Panny here in HK.

The point is that $2,999 is MSRP.

WHO ON EARTH sells product at MSRP in THIS economy?

I live in Detroit. We don't pay MSRP for ANYTHING here.

And I remain unconvinced that there is about $1,000 more "value" in the HW15 than there is in the Panny or Epson. In fact, the Epson has a MUCH longer lasting lamp (4,000 hours vs. "unpublished" for the HW15), is reported to be much sharper (vs. a softer, more 'film-like' look for the HW15) is brighter overall, and most importantly - isn't sold at MSRP with an arrogant "hey, if you want it, this is just what it costs" cockiness on the part of the manufacturer and their retailers. (I haven't confirmed this yet, but suspect strongly there is 'something' behind the recent across-the-board price increase from virtually EVERY retailer..there's just too much consistency of every single seller going up a few hundred bucks in the past couple of weeks to think Sony isn't behind that in SOME way..)

That said, I do want the HW15 for what some could call dumb reasons: it's black, looks like a 'real' projector vs something you'd do Powerpoint on, and is quite probably quieter than the Epson. (I guess the Panny is an option to address the black issue, but I never really considered that. For me, it's down to the 8500UB or the HW15. And I really can't justify spending almost a grand more - especially in this economy - for something that doesn't RESOUNDINGLY scream that it is $1,000 'better').

JMHO..not here to bash the HW15. I DO want one. I just refuse to pay MSRP for it. Or for ANY product I buy (especially big ticket ones) given the current economy.

I have had all three (more than one unit for two of them) in my theater and for me the Sony was well worth the difference.

Interesting! What do you think it was that made the HW15 worth the difference?

PQ is reported to be better (sharper, more vivid) on the Epson, and it has FI that the HW15 lacks.

The HW15 on the other hand has panel adjustment, sealed light path, SXRD and a 22 Db quiet fan..oh, and it's BLACK (which all PJs 'should' be!)

I hear ya on the black (does that make us vain? ) If you REALLY wanted the Epson, you could always go with the 9500UB!

Welllll..the ceiling is flat black, so..putting a white PJ up against it it just a crime of nature.

Oddly enough, I even got the wife to paint it! (So, high WAF..)

I did consider the 9500, but then am right back up in HW15 (PLUS) pricing, so..probably would stay with the HW15 at that point..

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post18192113

Regarding sharpness without taking pixel alignment and chromatic aberration into account I think it's hard to make any decisions about sharpness. I looked at a few BenQ W6000s and with its detail adjustment feature you could make it look extremely sharp... until you looked at the outer edges of the images and the pixels weren't close to being aligned (the degree varied per sample).

If the MSRP was $1999 would you still refuse to pay it? Look some companies don't play that game. Epson probably bumps MSRP a little to give room for retailers to "discount". Which really isn't a discount. I remember looking at 1080P LCOS back when it was $10000, and at that time I would not have believed that 1080P LCOS would be available at $2999 now.

The 4000 hr lamp life is what swayed me when I was debating 6500UB vs HW10. While I can't notice the pixel misalignment in my 6500UB from a normal viewing distance, I can't help but wonder if the image could be better if I could adjust the convergence. The Sony's adjustable convergence feature does sound slick. The HW10 and HW15 also has a super fast processor for gaming, which is another reason I wish I had bought the HW10 instead of the 6500UB. While I do like my 6500UB very much, this Epson owner wishes he had ponied up the extra $$$.

How does the HW15 image compare to the In76 if anyone has seen both?

much much better black, shadows in dark scenes, pictures is also brighter and better colours, it is another league

That's what I would have surmised except for "brighter". Really? The In76 and most IN's are light canons but that said I have to use a filter or and/or turn the brightness down.

Let me expand. I'm only shooting 90" wide but in light challenged room with white coloured walls and ceiling. But films and sports viewing only until after dark. I can throw from 17' or as close as 11' onto HCMW screen.

Will the HW15 be bright enough do you think? Sounds like everything is at least or good or surpasses the In76.

Best place to get the Sony these days (in US)?

I'd like some thoughts on this as well.

The HW15 is plenty bright when there is no ambient light. I have mine projecting on a 97” 0.9 gain screen and I need to run it on low lamp because high lamp is too bright. I have about 550 hours (at low lamp) on the bulb at this point. I have a low white ceiling and dark walls in a totally light controlled basement. I have calibrated the projector (amateur equipment, not pro.) to have the best picture, not the brightest picture. I use the projector for movies, sports, and Xbox360. The only settings I have different for the 3 uses are a little different gamma for Xbox360 (not quite as black in the darker scenes).

The only time I ran it at high lamp was for my “big game” football party. I had a couple of 25watt lamps on the other side of the room on, so the guests could find their way around for drinks and snacks.

The reasons I chose for the HW15 were: sealed light path (no dust blobs), very quiet running, bright in “best mode”, and panel alignment (which I do use). The only negatives: no anamorphic support (which I wouldn’t use), no FI (I can live without it), limited range of adjustable offset when compared to other projectors (mine just made it at almost maximum offset). Throw distance was not an issue for me. A benefit I didn’t know when I bought it, is its low lag time for video processing – a plus for online gaming.

My previous projector was DLP. I replaced it when the color wheel died at about 3500 hours. I probably would have gone with another DLP because I like the look and apparent sharpness, but I couldn’t find one in my price range that would fit my installation parameters (mainly correct offset) and had at least a 5X speed color wheel. The DLP I had was 5X speed and I no one ever saw rainbows in my family.

I purchased my HW15 locally at a very large family owned appliance and electronic store in the north suburbs of Chicago. They also have a very good full service online store. I went there for two reasons: price and service. Their salespeople are on commission, so if they know that you know competitor’s pricing, you can get a better than advertised price with them. They never want to lose a sale. The price I paid was less than any online store anywhere. And they are very good at service – I didn’t have any issues, but I’m sure they would have fixed any problems with my projector to my satisfaction. I had purchased a number of appliances there before too.

No matter where you purchase the projector, be sure to investigate return and repair policies. An extra hundred or so is a small price to pay for good service on an item of this price. My previous projector was purchased through the AVS Science store, and they provided excellent pricing and service too, but you’ll have to check with them whether or not they sell the HW15.

Thanks for taking the time to respond. All great points.

Final question- how do you find the sharpness compared to DLP?

DLP seems sharper relative to LCD and XSRD/LCOS to my eyes, but I'm sure given the same resolution, perfect convergence (for LCD and SXRD/LCOS), and a good lens - all 3 technologies should have the same sharpness. I just watched AVATAR and it looks very sharp on my HW15.

I just watched Avatar too on my HW15.

My screen is a Graywolf 2 with 1.8 gain (106"), and I kept thinking to myself "Damn this thing is bright!" so I had to check to make sure I didn't have it on HIGH lamp setting. But it was on LOW the whole time.

Also, just a couple of days ago, I realized that all along I have had it set with Overscan ON. I didn't realize that it reduces resolution, but when I found out I switched it OFF and it seems to bump the resolution up a little higher. I definitely notice more detail and everything is very crisp.

Of course, with a 1.8 gain screen, you don't need high lamp setting at least for the first 500 hours.

Also, make sure you turn off that 'RCP' thing after calibration.

Does anyone else have to re-focus the lens every time you turn on the vpl-hw15? Is this normal.? The outer focus ring seems to slowly move itself while it's on.

I believe the focus plane changes as the projector warms up. If you focus when it first starts up it will be out of focus after it warms up and vice-versa. I have found this to be the case with several projector brands and with several VPL-HW15s. I also noticed the image shifts downward (mounted right side up) if I remember correctly. About five or so pixels.

I'm guessing the lens assembly shifts as the projector heats up and again I have seen this across brands and on numerous units of the same model.

Thanks for the response Charles.

I haven't noticed any obvious focus issues on my VW15. I may just not be quite as eagle eyed as others, though, having been to the optometrist today for the first time in a few years. Maybe after my new contact lens prescription arrives my opinion will change!

Thanks for the info. Maybe I should pull up the Menu in the middle of a movie to see if the focus is off or not. Since I usually check the focus before I start the first viewing.

Charles R or anyone, Do you know if this heat/focus issue still occurs with projectors that have power focus and lens shift, that aren't manual like the vpl-hw15.

Thanks,

I am trying to mount a Sony VPL-HW10 projector in the same mounting holes as my Epson 6100.. Here are some dimensions.

- 9Ft Ceiling
- 92" Screen
- From the top of the ceiling to the top of screen, the height is 36"
- The distance from the screen to the projector is 11 feet.
- Right now, from the ceiling to the center of lens is 13".

I have used the horizontal and vertical shift and based on the information above, the screen image need to go down about 17" more... If I do this, the projector will be too low..

Please HELP...

Are you saying that you refuse to mount it any lower for aesthetic reasons?

I think there are a few things you can do if you can make some compromises:

1. The lens shift area is really an oval. If you are using a certain amount of horizontal shift, you won't get the maximum amount of vertical shift. You could attach the projector to an offset plate on the ceiling to eliminate the need for using any horizontal shift. I don't know how much that will give you, but maybe a few inches.
2. If you need still more, you could consider a short mount extension that lowers it say 8". That is still lower, but a compromise of your desired mounting height
3. Another option is possibly raising your screen height. Apparently there is a range that has a little flexibility. You might currently be at the bottom end of that height range and wouldn't be hurt by raising it a tad.
4. Finally, I don't know if it could help eliminate some of the height problem but -- maybe shortening your throw distance might help? I can't say.

One thing I would NOT do -- that would be angle the projector down and use the pincushion adjustment. Doing that throws away resolution, and I would never compromise the image quality.


I'm sorry my advice is not too detailed. I'm new to the projector world myself just 3 months ago. But if it were me, I would definitely try the first 3 ideas and see if that makes up for some of the height problem.

Yes.. For aesthetic reasons... But I may have too if it's my last option.

I have maxed out on the horizontal shift.. The picture will not go down any further..

If I have too, I will use a short mount extension, but I really don't.

Raising the screen is not an option.

Let me know if you have any other options....

Is the HW15 a better and brighter unit than the legendary Sony "Pearl"? Please tell me the differences if you have had both PJ's....many thanks!

I looked at the operator's manual in the section on adjusting the vertical position and it saids "The picture projected on the screen moves up or down by a maximum of 65% of the screen height from the center of the lens".

So, for me the distance from the top of the ceiling to the center of the screen is 59" (coming down from the ceiling). 65% of 59" is 38.35. Take that number and subtract it from 59" (59"-38.35") is 20.65". So for the projector mounting, the minimum distance from the top of the ceiling to the center of the projector lens is 20.65". So, I need a mount extension at least that length.. Once again I have 9' ceiling and the projector would be 7'2" from the floor...

Please verify my numbers.....

Pglover19,
Maybe you can raise your screen to compensate? My screen can be raised or lowered if need be.....just a thought.