Optoma HD8600 - Page 21

Hi coderguy!

Is the like a "law" that if it has frame interpolation? The reason I am asking about 120Hz, is that I consider the HD87 while the few remaining are still going dirty cheap - and then add the "3D Theater" box to it - which supports both 60Hz and 120Hz - but I would hate the flicker of 30Hz on each eye

Should be, yes. I am not sure how the 3D theater box works, but even 120hz projectors cannot take 120hz inputs, unless they are natively 3D or 3D ready, so I'm not sure that is going to make any difference. I am not an expert in that area though, that is just off the top of my head.

Yeah it's good their engineering mgr told me they updated the DI on the HD8300, makes it much less noticable than the HD8200 platform the 8300 is made off of.

After changing to the 8600 from the 8200 i still notice the DI set even on cinema1. Maybe i need also a software update? i will check firmware tonight and let you know on which mine is running. thanks.

Hi Tom,

Do you still keep in contact with Optoma? What's the latest firmware for HD8300? Heard there suppose to be a Mk2 version that just an upgraded firmware.

Yup. The DI on the HD86 (8600) was a big weak point.
(Far, far better on the Benq W6000.)

Don't know why Optoma never fixed it with a firmware update. Here's hoping the next gen sorts that out....

Aside from the DI, in comparison to the 8200, how is the Image, Fan noise, & Brightness of the 8600?
Thanks
Edited by David44 - 10/16/12 at 1:17pm

Any rumors on 3D version of HD87 (HD8600)?

joebuzz - My understanding is the most up to date fw revision for the 8600 is 1.11 as others on here have stated, but that it shows up as 1.08 on the menu (yes, extremely weird, but that's from Optoma tech support and was confirmed by guitarman who is a member here and assisted optoma with the fw I believe). My unit has the 1.08 at the top of the menu, so it is apparently up to date, and the iris is good, not great. The one thing that has me wondering though is that 1.11 was supposed to add luminance control in the cms system... but I don't see any luminance control. Maybe I'm just looking in the wrong spot?

What fw revision does your unit display on the menu?

Hi everyone,
We are trying to put together a new media room set up. I need to use a cathedral ceiling mount and an electric drop screen (family room). We watch movies and sports and I like DLP sharpness and pop (coming from Benq). I'm intrigued by the Optoma's SuperWide feature to scale all ARs to 2.0:1. I can order a 2.0:1 screen at a reasonable cost and the refurb HD8600 seems like a good value. My web search has been unable to turn up anyone actually using the SuperWide...
Does anyone here have experience with it? Is it well implemented? For such an initially "hyped" feature, it's received very little talk or posting.
It seems to me to be a great idea as the 2.0:1 AR is about halfway between the most common ARs(2:35 and 16x9). I know that you can use a processor (Lumagen) to achieve the same thing, but you sacrifice resolution.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.

You can tune the DI in service menu. In 1/4 step, just try to lower the value until you can't detect the iris movement. Had to do the same on W6000 to make the iris invisible.

please can you tell me how to arrive to the service menu? thanks.

The picture quality is excellent and better than the 82 most especially the brightness is really good. Fan noise is at par but the iris on the 82 drove me crazy with the buzzing sound, at least i cannot hear it on the 86. I will check what firmware i have and let everybody know. thanks.

Electric_Haggis:

Did anyone respond to this post with a solution? I have recently introduced a HTPC into my system and the lack of uniform focus is very evident with the Windows home screen (and on test patterns). As you note, it's not very visible with most movies and shows, but it is quite annoying when working with material on the Windows screen. Does anyone have any suggestions/solutions for this problem.

On a related note, I've recently noticed on test patters (the focus pattern generated by a DVDO Edge) that there is a significant shift in the blue. I didn't think this was possible with a single chip DLP. I have the projector ceiling mounted, and towards the top of the screen there is a significant (upto 1 pixel) shift in the blue so that I have a white cross with a blue cross slightly below it (there is perfect horizontal overlap). As you move towards the bottom of the screen the shift disappears until towards the bottom of the screen only a single cross is visible. Has anyone else noticed this? Is there a fix for this problem?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts on these issues.

K.M.

Is this happening only on windows PC home screen? did you check the resolution from the HTPC and even the frame sync rate? I never hooked up an HTPC with my 87, but i can always try. To me it seems there is something wrong in the lens geometry which is causing the issue. Do you have the possibility to try another lens on your projector, and anyway what model do you have? Did you notice this issue with other sources say a BD player or DVD?

With regards to the colour fringing, i think that the issue is related to poor optics, at least my projector picture seems good all over and i do not have any blue red or green fringing in the picture. Is you screen properly set up, as i have seen projectors with focus and convergence problems because the screen was not completely aligned to the image from the projector. Check these issues and if you have everything right from your side, i think you should contact service of your supplier. Some DLP and LCD projectors do need alignment to get the colours in check, but that is something that can only be done by service and i do not think that is something you can do yourself.

The lack of focus is definitely most visible with the HTPC, but is visible on other sources. I have a DVDO Edge in line between the sources and the HD8600 and have noticed the lack of focus with the test patterns for the Edge (and that's where the shift in blue is most visible). I did try my stand alone blu-ray player and also tried taking the Edge out of the chain and that didn't affect the focus or the shift in blue. I did spend a lot of time last weekend working on the physical configuration of the projector (lots of time with the laser level and drawing arcs in the ceiling ) but it didn't improve the focus that much. FWIW I called Optoma about the problem and talked to someone called Mike. Mike's explanation was that this is not unexpected and as long as the lack of focus and the blue shift was not visible while watching content there was no problem ("just like the edges of the screen are darker than the middle, it's easier to focus in the middle of the screen than the edges"). I found that to be a fairly disappointing response for a $8,000 (when new just a couple of years back) projector.

I was also able to use a fairly inexpensive Epson LCD projector to confirm that the lack of focus and blue shift was not being caused by the source material or other components in the chain. Of course, with the Epson the SDE was incredibly visible. I know the HD8600 has the small TI chip. Does anyone know which of the below-$10,000 single-chip, DLP projectors use the 0.95" chip? I believe the LS-3, LS-5, and Sharp XV-Z20000 use that chip but was wondering which other projectors use the larger chip?

Thanks.

K.M.

Marantz and Planar in used market. I think as you noted some Runcos in new market, and you might find some left-over new stock (old PJ' unopened) somewhere. Other than that, I can't think of anything because the MFR's aren't really making much DLP units between $5000 to $10,000 right now. Maybe someone else can add to this.

I don't think the hd8600 should have a major focus uniformity issue, if you bought it as a refurb, it probably has an issue in the optical assembly. DLP's can vary on optics as well, even though far less common, but certain models like certain Optomas have been known to have a larger variance than some others due to assembly error, especially in focus uniformity. Focus uniformity is often caused by a cheap lens, but there are other causes. If the lens assembly was warped or any part near it, that could cause it.

I would try another hd8600 if you can exchange it for no cost, otherwise you'll need to go for a Runco or something in the used market. A Benq w7000 is really sharp for a .65", but it doesn't have good contrast.

The LS-3 uses the DC2 .95" DMD, The LS-5 uses the DC3 .95" DMD. The Sharp uses the DC3 .95" DMD. Other projectors with the larger chip are the Marantz VP-11S1 (DC3 DMD), Marantz VP-11S2 (DC4 DMD), Marantz VP-15S1 (DC3 DMD), Samsung SP-A800B (DC2 DMD), Samsung SP-A900B (DC4 DMD), InFocus IN81, IN82, and IN83 use DC2, DC3, and DC4 respectively. BenQ W5000 uses DC2 DMD, BenQ W20000 uses DC3 DMD. Those are the ones off the top of my head. I've owned an LS-5 (PD8150). BenQ W5000, InFocus IN82, InFocus IN83, and a Marantz VP-11S1. Out of all of those if I were to suggest one to buy it would be the Runco LS-5 (or Planar PD8150) It's my favorite of the bunch, with the Marantz coming in at a close second.

Thanks Coderguy and Seegs108. I appreciate all the additional feedback. I had a chance this past weekend to run some more experiments with my HD8600 and was able to confirm that it throws a more focused picture with no evidence of misalignment (same distance to the same screen with the same source) when it is right side up (i.e. on a table). I am starting to think that the replacement lens (I have the standard lens) is not held as firmly in place as one would hope and that is what is causing the focus issues and misalignment when the HD8600 is ceiling mounted (upside down). Although I will have to play around with this some more, I am definitely leaning towards sticking with the HD8600 but figuring out a way to use a shelf instead of the standard ceiling mount. I'll report back once I have had a chance to do some more messing around with the placement of the projector.

For what it's worth, I had a chance to review both the Runco Q750i and the Sim2 Crystal 35 at a local hi-fi store this weekend (I was seriously considering replacing the HD8600 and had not yet tried using it "right side up"). Keeping in mind that the rooms were nowhere near as light-controlled as what I have at home, the images were being projected on fairly old movable screens, and I have no idea when the projectors had last been calibrated (if at all), I thought that the image of the Sim2 was nowhere near as nice as the HD8600 and the image of the 750i was comparable to that of the HD8600. Again, this is just one data point based on no more than 20 minutes of viewing each projector, but for those considering the HD8600 or HD8300 this may be of some interest.

I've been told the same thing regarding the Fw versions, and I also can't find the luminance control. Look forward to hearing an answer to this one.

Hello

It's nice to read such praise.
I'm still interested in whether the OPTOMA HD86 projector is a 3D projection?

Hello everyone I just wanted to introduce myself to this thread. I just purchased a refurbished HD8600 from a co. in candada for $2023.00 with a 2 year warranty and free shipping. Im super excited about this projector as I am upgrading from a Optoma HD7100 which I loved but based on all the features and picture quality this thing is going to light up my attic theater. Ill post some pictures when I have it all set up. Do you guys/gals think I made a good choice at a fair price? How has your experiences been with this projector, any issues or concerns? Any input would be appreciated:cool:

P.S. does anyone have any advise on cailbaration on this unit?

Hi,

I did this time my settings.

I have a cinema room, black walls and red carpet.

I calibrated it with spyder 3 and HCFR, my cs canvas is 280cm wide and 122cm high.

lamp mode standard

Contrast, brightness and color should be adjusted as your premises.

now my settings:

brightness 3
contrast -3
Color -16
Tint -1
sharpness 1


noise 0
DB cinema 1
Iris 8
Gamma film unchanged

pure:

detail 1
Color 2
FI 0 (to taste)

Next menu

Color d65
scale HDTV
Auto Color Space
RGB normal

next menu

R -6
G -7
G -11

R 0
G -5
B -2

CMS

R 25/-13/26
G -4/26/50
B -15/8/43
Z -13/5/47
M -23/-4/-29
G 1/-10/2

HDMI auto

As I said, my values ​​do not fit with you, try it.

otherwise congratulations to your choice

Greetings poem

Thanks for taking the time to reply when I get her Im going to input those settings. I take it you really like theHD8600? Ive been hearing nothing but good things Im really excited to get it.

I finally got the HD8600 mounted last night, In order to get the image to fill my 100" screen I had to move the mount back 16" and center it, so after some spackle and paint she's mounted. I must say right out the box it looks great and I cant wait to play with the settings to make it even better. I do have a question. When Im switching channels on my HD cable box the screen goes black until I I stop switching channels then its says HD signal found and the picture comes back, Why does it do that and what can I do to fix it?

Last night I noticed as screaching sound coming from the projector when I changed the picture setting from Cinema1 down the line. Is this normal? I didnt hear it the first day

Here is a screen shot from Batman which was taken last night with my i-phone 3 so it doesnt represent the true clarity and sharpness of the image.

Having an issue with my HD8600 its seems when a bright sceen come up in a movie the picture changes brightness which is becoming very annoying for a pricy projector such as this. Also when I switch setting going from cinema 1 to user it makes a very strange grinding type noise. Is this normal?
Any input would be appreciated before I go back to the company that sold it.
Thanks

attichometheater, do you have ImageAI enabled?