Official Harman Kardon AVR 1600/2600/3600 owner's thread - Page 78

There is a heat sink for the amplifier which needs air circulation. Blocking the circulation will increase the temperature inside the chassis which could also accelerate any hardware issues as well as being a potential fire hazard.

Touch the top panel during extended high volume level usage to gauge how warm the chassis gets.

Just hooked up the AVR 2600, replacing the HK AVR 325. So playing around with Dolby Volume, it seems like a great feature, with a few weak points. I have a few MP3s and FLACs that seem to suffer in clarity and crispness when played with any Dolby Volume settings, Low through Max. Typically songs featuring vocals, eg. Amy Winehouse's Valerie from the Back to Black B-Sides, lose a lot of fidelity and sound muffled in the vocal range. It doesn't seem to matter which surround mode I use, even plain 2ch stereo, when Dolby Volume is anything but Off the vocals are pushed much quieter and stuffier sounding, like voices were coming out of a box.

I like Dolby Volume set to Medium for most stereo TV and video sources, and Dolby Volume doesn't seem to adversely affect any DTS or Dolby audio tracks from DVDs and Blu-Rays. So it seems odd that music files seem to suffer more than anything else.

My current setup is now the AVR 2600 in a 3.1 setup with two Polk Monitor 70s and one CS2 center and the PSW10 sub (it's ok but definitely the least satisfying piece here). I play my audio files from a Mac mini connected via HDMI. I've calibrated the Dolby Volume to +2db according to my speakers' 90db sensitivity level. I think I like Dolby PLII Movie mode the best with Dolby Volume at Medium for most things.

Does anyone have any similar experiences with Dolby Volume and muffled sounding voices? Is there some configuration I'm missing, or particular surround modes that work best with Dolby Volume?

Dolby Volume is a dynamic range control scheme to be used with sources which have fluctuating levels such as volume level for off-air broadcasts, one channel may be too loud and another may be too low..
Today there are many available sources with a wide range of levels, so for these things could sound better with Dolby Volume either OFF or set to Low. I would suggest that you read the Operation Guide section for Dolby Volume, essentially you have 3 parts, the Leveler, the Modeler and Volume offset. Try and experiment with these, you may find something that sounds better for you..

Also if the source is HD such as a Blu-Ray disk with DTS Master-Audio, this typically will have high dynamics and Dolby Volume is not required..
Unless listening late @ nite and not wanting to disturb others..

Just my $0.02...

I think I was mostly looking for someone to say it's OK to dislike Dolby Volume and to just turn it off, after reading so many positive reviews of it here. I don't live in an apartment or condo, and even at Low with only the Modeler on and no Leveler, I feel like DV is really killing the quality of singing voices. So I'm going to leave it off for my Mac mini HTPC which plays my audio, off for my Blu-Ray player, and maybe leave it at Medium for broadcast TV where I don't care so much about the voices.

Thanks guys! Love the AVR 2600 so far, it's pretty snazzy compared to an 8 year old AVR 325.

Its OK to dislike it and just turn it off!
I don't use it on my blu-ray player, AppleTV, or PS3. I do use it for cable TV - but I honestly don't know how much it is actually doing.

I current have AVR 745, which was the top of the line back then.

Looking to upgrade. So many people around here say that 3600 is better 3650. Why?
I don't care about the analogue pre-out or in. What are differences between 3600 and 3650?

I do like the switched power out on the 3600, I use it to control my DVD players, power woofer, etc.

Update on this...
Using the Harmony RF extender with it plugged into the IR IN port on the back of the 3600 works just fine.
I even tested it out while watching 3D content (so other IR signals were bouncing all over the room including into the shelving area where the 3600 sits) - and it worked without any issues.
I didn't get a chance to see if it passes IR commands while in standby mode - sorry... I'll try to remember to try that tomorrow.

Basic advantages of 3600 over the 3650 are:
1. Includes Bridge III
2. Beefier power supply
3. 7.1 Pre-outs
4. Available @ a significantly lower cost

Basic advantage of 3650 over the 3600
1. Has internet & network capability

Just my $0.02...

I have the same exact experience with my 128kbps mp3.

What if I go for 7550?

What will I lose from going for 7550, instead of 3600 or 3650?

I know it won't have ARC... no audio feedback.

What else do I lose?

What do I gain?

I never turn on DV for serious listening...only use it for TV broadcast sometimes. It is always better to bypass any electronic processes to get cleaner and dynamic sound.

On the other hand, note also that the 3650 has more HDMI inputs, five on the rear panel and one on the front, compared to four on the 3600 with rear panel only. The 3650 also plays MP3 from USB, which the 3600 does not. It's a toss up if having the preamp outs on the 3600 or the additional HDMI on the 3650 is more important for you.

Also, 3600 has A-Bus, which is cool for easy to install multiroom. For some reason they dropped it on the 3650.

Good points..
But also check the cost differences between them..
The 3600 is available for about $400 less than the 3650..

Just my $0.02..

Hi, I have a avr3600 and im having a very frustrating issue. I have my receiver hooked up to my pc via hdmi (6950 graph card), and when ever i switch inputs or shut off the receiver windows says no audio device is connected then i have to restart my pc everytime i shut the receiver off or change to satellite. Its driving me nuts Ive tried different drivers and still no results.

I also believe the 3650 has High instantaneous-current capability (HCC): ±45 amps, whereas the 3600 has HCC): ±35 amp section.
I'd pick the 3600 over the 3650.

The 3650 is also rated for ±35amps (the product information summary sheet lists 45 (along several other misprint specs), though all other documentation lists 35)
The 3600's amplifier section is actually beefier than the 3650, the power supply is larger and there is 25% more secondary capacitance.

I made a fairly thorough list comparing the 3600vs3650 in this thread;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post21574146


A note regarding the 3600's A-Bus output - Though not mentioned in the manual, unlike previous A-Bus equipped H/Ks you also need to purchase an optional external power supply if you intend to use it with a single keypad. This power supply connects to the DC jack directly above the A-Bus output.
The integral 24VDC supply was deleted from the 3600's power supply before production.

If you will be using an A-Bus hub (i.e. 'HK' ABH4) off the 3600 to power multiple keypads, a power supply connected to the receiver is not likely required - the hub's power supply will be powering the keypad(s), and powered A-Bus hubs normally do not require power coming in the expansion input (just 12VDC status power, which the 3600 ABus does output even w/o the 24VDC supply connected)

Deleting the integral 24VDC supply obviously saved costs, and it is rare that only a single keypad will be used anyway (thus requiring hub for multiple rooms)


Deleting the A-Bus connectivity from the 3650 entirely saved even more costs. If a hub is being used, a dedicated "A-Bus" receiver output really is not required. The single cat5 line just makes it a little more convenient. E.G. if you wish to setup an A-Bus system with a 3650 (which still has the analog Zone2 outputs), simply connect the Zone2 analog pre-outs to the RCA audio inputs of the A-Bus hub (i.e. ABH4), and run a 3.5mm mono cable from one of the hub's IR emitter outputs back to the receiver's Zone2 IR input. (In most cases a 'status' power connection is not required, as the hub will automatically enable/disable status output to all keypads when audio signal is present at input)

Note: On some *other* brand A-Bus hubs, a local source/RCA input is not used and only expansion input. In these cases a local 'interface' module is normally used, which provides the IR emitter jacks, RCA connection for L/R audio, 'status' power input, and occasionally a trigger output for other sources - this module then provides an "A-Bus" cat5 based output which goes to the hub's expansion input.

Both of the H/K branded A-Bus hubs feature RCA analog input, however.

Don't believe the +/-45Amps, high current spec..
Specs for HK AVRs in their brochures, operation guides and website frequently contradict themselves...
High current requires a bigger power transformer and this was the 1st section sized down from the 3600..


Just my $0.02...

So I've been reading this forum for a little while but never had to post anything... until now.

So I had the HK AVR 340 for a loooong time and finally decided to upgrade to HDMI in November. I had a bunch of amazon coupons so I splurged and went for the AVR 3600, in November. Everything was great until i connected an xbox 360 that i got for christmas. I started getting PROTECT mode everytime i turned on the system. I think i narrowed it down to the subwoofer. If the subwoofer is not plugged in, it has not gone into protect for the last couple days. I have a really old set of TS14 HK speakers (6 years old) and I think the subwoofer has finally bit the dust. Without buying a new sub, is there a way to make sure that it is really the problem? I really hope its not the reciever. I don't really have an option of borrowing one either because nobody i know locally even owns a subwoofer.

Couple other strange things that I've noticed that bug me a little:

I have audio dropout on the xbox. i have it on bypass but it still seems to drop a lot (every 5-10 minutes). Could this be because i have a long and cheap HDMI caple going to it (12' amazon special)?

I have the same issue with auto surround selection on my Blu-Ray player only. It only actually lets me pick Auto or Stereo. I tried messing with it without the audio on like a previous post suggested and it doesn't matter. Every other source lets me pick whatever I want for surround mode except that one, whether it's on bypass or not. Even in the source setup.


Thanks in advance for the help.

I just purchased the 2600 from newegg just now for 329 shipped! and its brand new, not refurb. it will replace my 254. cant wait and i loved the price!

Several months ago, H/K replaced my 3600 because it kept starting up in protect mode. If I shut it off and restarted it, it would turn on normally. I disconnected everything and got the same results. If you contact H/K, make sure you do it through email on the web site. This was not my first issue with the newer generations of receivers. I played the "try this" then "try that" game too many times with "technicians" on the other end of the phone line that could barely speak English. Email contact yielded much faster results.

Not sure about the audio selection issue. I can only think that it must be a setting in you Bluray player.

Good luck.

Hi guys!
I would really appreciate your input on my issue! I'm new to this forum and kinda new to all AV.
I bought AVR 3650 couple weeks ago and I have mac mini, dvd player and apple TV connected. I don't have cable box , TV is LCD Sony Bravia 46. The TV doesn't support audio trough HDMI so I'm using toslink cable. Same for the mac mini (its late 2009 model).
When I watch TV I use the TV remote to set the input to TV, for everything else i have to change the input to HDMI 1 on the TV. (that HDMI goes to the monitor out on 3650). Sometimes, when I try to change from TV (in today's scenario to apple TV) I get no response from the apple TV ...black screen for a couple min and "no signal" message. Same thing with mac mini and the dvd player. I know everything is connected, so I turned off the AVR and turned ON again and everything seems fine. I can switch back and forth trough all components. This happened few times so far and its annoying. I was wondering if I have cable box connected to the AVR and avoid changing inputs on the TV remote will solve the problem?
I'm really curious to find out why this "freeze" happens.
Thank you in advance for your help!!!!

~D

"the freeze" happened again ...instead of turning OFF and ON the AVR I decided to turn OFF and ON the TV and that helped having access to all components (till next time)...

I'm 99% sure I know the answer to this, and it is probably a dumb question ... but: When the 3600 is set to bypass, there is no way to get an onscreen volume display is there?

I've moved mine from the front of the room to behind a curtain on some side shelves, and I love that it is out of the way - but I hate that I don't know what the volume level is.

I know it has the option to set the volume it turns on at, and I may do that - but when firing up a movie I like being able to crank it up to -20 right at the start.

I know that when it is not in bypass it will display it - but I don't like the lipsync issues that pop up when it isn't in bypass mode... I can never seem to get things to be dead on, and it drives me nuts even though no one else seems to notice.

what does each setting on dolby volume mean and where is the best to put it at? should it only be on for tv, and left off for blu-ray, etc, or all the same. this is for the 2600 that i just got yesterday im asking about.

Hi all,

Tried to connect an old mac mini to 3600 and have not been able to make it work. I selected "media server" from list of sources. Hook up is monitor/video out of mac > HDMI 4 on AVR and audio out of mac > optical 1 on AVR. Went through set up and the above stated config. is in there, but only get green screen. No picture no sound. Any suggestions as to what I've done wrong? Thanks, Jeff

On for those blaring commercials for TV. Off for everything else, unless you want to stop the dynamics for late night viewing. That's what works for me.

MMMM... that new electronics smell. I just replaced a AVR 245 with a 3600 and, wow, what a difference. The power! Power! It's like I have bought all new speakers. I had no idea it would make that large of an impact.

I'm blown away by Dolby Volume... overnight it has gone from something I knew nothing about to something I can't live without. I keep it on medium for everything but listening to MP3, where I have it on low. My understanding is that this continues to level the volume but drops the dynamic adjustments. The effect this has on low level listening is impressive.

My only real complaint is the remote. While I use a Harmony so it doesn't really matter, what exactly were they thinking when they designed this thing? It's comically large, cheaply built, and the batteries rattle around in it. Very un-H/K like.

I really like my 3390. Powers a set of Paradigms easily and sounds great.

I can't seem to get a reply in the x54 thread, but for those of you who used to own one, were all the issues resolved with the last update? I have one in for repair, and it looks unlikely that they will replace it with a 3600 after all.

Also, I have recently seen some questioning whether HK AVR's are truly High Current Amps. Can one of you experts shed some light on this?

..Ok i think i found your post on a HDMI issue with your H/K.I had an issue with my H/K2600 it would have audio and video dropouts.But after i did the update on it the issue's where solved.It is a really great AVR and it sits in my 2nd bedroom doing nothing cause i upgraded it for the H/K3600 just wanted the 3600 for the Pre-outs on all channels.As for H/K's being high-current they are high current.They had a lot of typos in there manuels.I sent an email too them about the same thing you where asking and got an email back from them.They stated that typos where in the manuels.