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Ayre DX-5 bluray player - Page 45

post #1321 of 1423
Ukranian,

The fuses make a huge difference in the sound and I was not expecting it to make that much difference. It put a lot more energy in the room from the bass region so I had to spend a great deal of time changing the position of the speakers again to dial them in. I still have not changed out the PCB fuses because I have not had time to sit down with everything. I hope to do it soon and I will report just on those fuses.
post #1322 of 1423
Ingot,

I am glad that you like the upgrade. I sure thought it was worth it.
post #1323 of 1423

Dear Sword of Levi,

 

Thanks for your comment! I've already located one Supreme fuse where I live to replace in my DX-5 and will buy it within the next few days. I will also report my impressions after the change.

 

You seem to be a "tweaky kinda guy". Me too!:D Did you ever consider changing the stock power inlet on your DX-5 (and, actually on MX-R and KX-R too) for after market Oyaide power inlet R (see here): http://www.oyaide.com/ENGLISH/AUDIO/products_category/power_plugs_iec_connectors/pg743.html

The reviews on this inlet are very positive and the price seems reasonable to try it out. I mean... if it doesn't live up to expectations, putting the stock one back is a 15 min. job.

post #1324 of 1423
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sword of Levi View Post

I bought one at Guitar Center that is local and it was on sale so it worked out pretty well. Also, with the instructions you gave previously about checking the DC offset, wouldn't I be able to check the DC offset on the unit, then plug in the adapter and check it with the same pin order and know if they switched anything on the inside of the adapter?

Also, where are the pots located inside the unit?

Hello Sword,

Good score on the adapter. If you make your own adapter, the connections cannot be anything but straight-through (unless you deliberately add some wires in between to cross them over!). On the other hand when you look at the face of an XLR connector, there will be tiny 1's, 2's, and 3's molded in the plastic face to identify the pin numbers. If you think about it, the only way that the two pins that are off the center line can connect is if they cross.



A male to a female are normally mirror-imaged. But putting two females back to back requires that the wires cross inside the adapter.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
First remove all of the analog audio connectors from the rear panel of unit. This will prevent any DC from traveling to your preamp or SSP whilst you are fiddling with the adjustments.

There are ten 5/64" (2 mm) flathead hex screws that hold the top cover on. when you remove this, be VERY careful where the power enters the unit. Some of the connections with the AC mains voltage are exposed at that point. Those voltages are lethal!

In front of the part of the rear panel with the analog connectors, the audio PCB is covered with a plate. There are four holes in the plate with trimpots directly beneath them. Hold the screwdriver exactly vertical and slowly turn the screwdriver with just it's own weight bearing down. When the blade lines up with the slot, it will fall into the slot and then you will feel some resistance as you turn the screwdriver. It will turn about 3/4 of a turn altogether, and this will change the DC offset about ±100 mV or so. You want to adjust them to have the DC offset as close to zero as possible when no music is playing and the unit has been warmed up for at least one hour with the top cover on.

We will post full instructions along with some photos in the next day or two. Really! I promise!

Best,
Charles Hansen
Ayre Acoustics, inc.
post #1325 of 1423
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Ukrainian View Post

You seem to be a "tweaky kinda guy". Me too!biggrin.gif Did you ever consider changing the stock power inlet on your DX-5 (and, actually on MX-R and KX-R too) for after market Oyaide power inlet R (see here): http://www.oyaide.com/ENGLISH/AUDIO/products_category/power_plugs_iec_connectors/pg743.html
The reviews on this inlet are very positive and the price seems reasonable to try it out. I mean... if it doesn't live up to expectations, putting the stock one back is a 15 min. job.

Hello Ukrainian,

EDIT: IMPORTANT!!!
I made an error in the text below. The Oyaide IEC connector will NOT fit the DX-5. The DX-5 IEC also contains the fuse holder and the Oyaide does not. I was thinking of our three latest models, the AX-5, KX-5 and VX-5. These have an IEC with the same dimensions as the Oyaide and then a separate power switch + circuit breaker combination. The Oyaide does fit the three new models, but not the DX-5. Sorry for the mis-information. I don't know of any "high-end" IEC's that will directly replace the one that is in the DX-5. If anybody finds one, please let me know. The unit we use in the DX-5 is a Schurter 6200.2100 .


The dimensions of the Oyaide connector look to be about right to replace the stock connector. There are some minor discrepancies, but they are probably the result of rounding errors from Imperial to metric dimensions. The part we use is virtually identical except for one thing -- the plating. Almost all electrical connectors are nickel plated. Nickel looks very nice and shiny and has a lot of good properties. There is only one problem. Nickel is a ferromagnetic metal (like iron, although much weaker) and sounds very bad. It is probably the worst sounding plating that is commonly available.

That is why one should avoid most gold-plated connectors. 99% of the time, the gold is put on top of nickel. This is because the gold is porous and without the nickel underplate, there would eventually be corrosion problems with the copper or brass base material. Never use a gold plated connector unless it is advertised as "direct gold plated" (eg, AudioQuest). There is a secret to direct gold plating and very few people know how to do it without it causing problems. I like "rhodium plating", which is actually a very thin layer of rhodium (twice as expensive as platinum) over a heavy silver plate. The rhodium is thin because it is not a good conductor, but it does not tarnish or oxidize (similar to gold) and is extremely hard to protect the silver. Rhodium over silver is the plating of choice for critical microwave connectors in things like spacecraft.

The other thing is that it is not so easy to solder heavy gauge wire to thick pins. The best soldering iron in the world is the Metcal. They have several models. You want the ones that accept the STTC series tips. The one to get is the STTC-117, which is a 1/4" chisel tip with a constant temperature of 700° F. If you don't have a Metcal, I wouldn't even try to replace the IEC outlet. They have several older generations and the oldest ones go for $50 to $100 on eBay pretty regularly. The tips sell for $20 new, but don't show up on eBay that often (for the '117). Once you use a Metcal, you will never use another soldering iron in your life. They are by far the best ones ever invented.

The part that we use is tin plated. Tin plating is actually quite good sounding, almost as good as the ultra expensive materials (and far better than nickel), but is much, much less expensive. If you try the Oyaide out, let me know what you think.

Thanks,
Charles Hansen
Ayre Acoustics, inc.
Edited by Charles Hansen - 11/4/13 at 10:52am
post #1326 of 1423
Hello All,

We received this e-mail from a UK customer:

>> I have been trying to play the Peter Gabriel Hybrid SACDs
>> (released in Europe) that were released about 10 years ago and
>> they all seem to have problems with the music stopping and then
>> resuming after 1 or 2 seconds. Thinking it might be a problem
>> with the hybrid nature of the SACDs, I therefore obtained a
>> non-hybrid SACD of the same title (these were released in the US)
>> and had exactly the same issue, in exactly the same spot.

Has anybody else had this problem? I think all of his first five discs had the same title, "Peter Gabriel", so it is unclear which disc(s) have the problem. He also does not say if it is just once per disc or more than once. Any clues from anybody in Europe? Thanks,
Charlie Hansen
Ayre Acoustics, Inc.
post #1327 of 1423
Quote:
Originally Posted by IngoT View Post

good news to see the problem identified. It would be of interest to test whether playback of computer-based DSD files through the USB input also subsequently causes the USB-PCM problem. If this was true, does it also affect the QB-9DSD? (A friend of mine has just ordered one after having listened to my DX-5DSD). I have no DSD files on my computer, so I cannot test it.

I assume a necessary firmware update can only be done at SUN AUDIO, correct?

Dear Ingo,

We have found the source of the problem. The new ESS DAC chip stays in the same mode that it was in before it was put into standby. So when you play an SACD it is in DSD mode. Then you turn the unit off and later turn the unit on to play a PCM file via the USB input. But the ESS chip is still in DSD mode. This is why there is no music. If you had DSD files on your computer, they would play, as the ESS DAC is still in DSD mode.

We already have a new firmware version to correct the problem ready, but it can only be done at the distributor's facility with a programming machine. We can e-mail Philipp at Sun Audio the image file for the firmware chip. I believe that he keeps blank ones in stock, so he should be able to upgrade the firmware as early as tomorrow. Unfortunately it sounds as though you are far enough away that you will need to ship the unit to Sun Audio. I apologize for the inconvenience.

The only thing that you might try is asking Philipp if Sun will send you the programming machine so that you can perform the upgrade yourself. This would only make sense if you are an experienced electronic technician as it there are actually two memory chips that need to be upgraded. Each one requires connecting 8 or 10 wires to the programming port in the correct order. Then when you press the button, the rest is automatic and a light will indicate if the operation was successful. It is a special programming machine that we made, which we call the Ayre-Grammer.

Or if you know someone that works with Xilinx FPGA's, they will have a Xilinx programming machine that connects to a Windows PC, and we can send you those files and instructions also. The Xilinx programming machine costs around $250, so it is not worth it to buy it for just one-time use. It is a somewhat more difficult to use as there are many setup options, but it you have access to one of those, you could avoid shipping the unit again. I will contact Philipp and explain the situation to him and together you may be able to come up with a good solution. Please accept my apologies for the problem and also my thanks for finding the bug.

Best regards,
Charles Hansen
Ayre Acoustics, Inc.
post #1328 of 1423
Hi Charles,

thanks for your efforts and the quick solution. However it appears a little strange to me that I can swap between SACDs and CDs, all played by the player's transport, without problems and that ony the USB input is affected... Should the problem not affect CDs too? And how about the QB-9DSD?

I will contact Philipp to update my unit. So I think you should send the file to SUN.

Best regards from Cologne, too far from Munich...

Ingo
post #1329 of 1423
Charles,

Thanks for the instructions. It was very easy to change. Hitting those pots were a pain but easily doable once I got the hang of it.

Either way, that didn't solve my problem. I got the DC offset on the DX-5 to zero on every pin. I used the adapter and even got my son to help me with it without the adapter and I got zero on all of the pins once I was finished.

I played the same movie, turned the volume to 53 on the kxr and the mxr amp still tripped. I wish it was just one amp but it is both of them sometimes. The left one trips first, then I reset it and keep listening to the same scene and then it gets both of them. Maybe the bass is just too much on that scene. I don't know but it is consistent.

I will probably just wait to get the MXRs updated and hopefully that will fix it.

Thank you for the instructions.

By the way, it did it before I put in those fuses and still does it afterwards, so i don't think my fuse modification helped or hurt.

Sword
post #1330 of 1423
Hi Sword,

What kind of DC readings did you get before adjusting?

Scott
post #1331 of 1423
Scott,

I don't really remember what it was before the upgrade. Before the upgrade one I believe was in the 30s. I posted it on a forum but don't remember which one. I quickly did a search in this forum for DC offset but didn't see it. Either way, the DC offset was really good before I started. One side was 8.2, 5.4, and the other was 10.2, and 8.6, so I doubted it was the problem after the upgrade but I wanted to make sure. Never know until you try. I worked a good bit on it and got it to 0.00 flat on all pins after the machine was warm for 2 hours. I know Charles said 1 hour but I thought it wouldn't hurt to do 2 hours. I saw it change during the first 30 minutes of warm up with the top on.

It is fine when I play a CD. I can turn it up to max without a problem (except ears bleeding) on a CD. It only trips on blu ray movies when I turn the volume up over 51 on the KXR. I believe it only happens when it is a Blu Ray. Blu Ray's are much lower in volume so I have to turn it up more than I do on CDs.

Sword
post #1332 of 1423
Sword,

Does it happen on loud scenes? My idea is that clipping can be a root cause. Recently I have seen Skyfall audio track in audio editor, it's heavily loaded with clipping...
post #1333 of 1423
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sword of Levi View Post

It is fine when I play a CD. I can turn it up to max without a problem (except ears bleeding) on a CD. It only trips on blu ray movies when I turn the volume up over 51 on the KXR. I believe it only happens when it is a Blu Ray. Blu Ray's are much lower in volume so I have to turn it up more than I do on CDs.

Hello Sword,

Does it trip the protection will all BD's when you go above 51 or just some?

If it does it with all BD's, then there may be some DC offset in the preamp. In that case, you could switch to an unused input and turning it up past 51 would still trip the DC protection circuit of the MX-R's. In that case we need to send you instructions on adjusting the DC offset of the KX-R .

If it only trips with specific BD's, then there is probably some really loud LFE on the disc that is tripping the protection circuit. It trips at 2 volts DC, but I made a graph recently (I don't remember if I still have it) and it will trip at something like 4 volts with a 0.1 Hz signal (like an explosion). We had a customer once that had a CD that would trip the protection circuit on his setup every time he played it above a certain level. We analyzed the disc and somebody must have kicked the microphone stand or something, because there was the really high level signal well below 1 Hz at one point on the disc. We told him that the three choices were to not play that particular disc so loud or, we could make a copy of that disc and run that track through a high-pass filter to get rid of the sub-sonic noise, or he could send the unit back to us and we could change the parameters on the DC sensing circuit so that the disc wouldn't trip the threshold. I think he ended up just playing the disc not so loud. He just thought that there might be something wrong with the amp and wanted to make sure.

Let us know the specifics of your situation and we'll find a solution.

Thanks,
Charlie Hansen
Ayre Acoustics, Inc.
post #1334 of 1423
I must have missed this discussion about the MX-R's being tripped. I have had this too on some Blu Ray discs. Listening to surround movies in two channel through the KX-R does require turning the volume up more than on CD's. Sometimes a loud explosion on the soundtrack can knock the MX-R's out. However, it is a rare occurrence for us and not a big deal. We use the DX-5 mostly for music and watch more independent / foreign films than action movies.

I think it only happens on DTS soundtracks.

Sometimes there is an option to listen to a two channel movie soundtrack. This requires the volume to be turned up a little less and might help avoid the problem.
post #1335 of 1423

Dear Charles,

 

Following in the footsteps of Sword of Levi, I want to replace all the stock fuses in my DX-5 and MX-R. To give my system better dynamics, will you approve of higher values as below and check my order before I pay and have it shipped to me:

 

IMPORTANT: Both DX-5 and MX-R are set up for Europe and are 220V units!

 

DX-5: I need 1 fuse 5mmX20mm, slow blow, 500mA/250V (other available values are: 630mA, 800mA, 1A, 1.25A, 1.6A, 2A). Please recommend the best value for sound and the unit operation.

 

2 MX-R: for IEC I need 2 fuses (1 for each MX-R) 5mmX20mm, slow blow, 3.15A/250V (other available values are: 4A and 5A). I know  4A is better than 3.15A. Would 5A be even better?

Input rail fuses: I need 2 (1 for each MX-R) 5mmX20mm, fast blow, 160mA/250V (the only available values are: 250mA and 500 mA). Since 160 mA is unavailable, shall I go for 250 or 500 mA?

Output rail fuses: I need 2 (1 for each MX-R) 5mmX20mm, fast blow, 10A/250V (also available 20A). Shall I stick to 10A or will 20A be better for sound?

post #1336 of 1423
Hi Sword,

I have a customer with an Ayre C5Xe and when playing a loud bass heavy track his Bryston amps shut off. If he uses his Marantz DVD player he does not have the problem. I suspected the problem was being caused by vibrations and moved the CX5e about 5 meters away from the speakers- no more problem.

The customer was going to borrow my display to see if it did the same thing but never did.

Different Ayre product, but you never know.

Scott
post #1337 of 1423
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Hansen View Post

Hello All,

We received this e-mail from a UK customer:

>> I have been trying to play the Peter Gabriel Hybrid SACDs
>> (released in Europe) that were released about 10 years ago and
>> they all seem to have problems with the music stopping and then
>> resuming after 1 or 2 seconds. Thinking it might be a problem
>> with the hybrid nature of the SACDs, I therefore obtained a
>> non-hybrid SACD of the same title (these were released in the US)
>> and had exactly the same issue, in exactly the same spot.

Has anybody else had this problem? I think all of his first five discs had the same title, "Peter Gabriel", so it is unclear which disc(s) have the problem. He also does not say if it is just once per disc or more than once. Any clues from anybody in Europe? Thanks,
Charlie Hansen
Ayre Acoustics, Inc.

Hi Charles,

I have Peter Gabriel's Shaking The Tree Hybryd Stereo SACD pressed in Austria. Cat# SAPGTVD6. I didn't buy other remastered titles since I don't like the sound of this one. But it plays on my DX5DSD with no flaws...
post #1338 of 1423
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Hansen View Post

Hello Sword,

Does it trip the protection will all BD's when you go above 51 or just some?

If it does it with all BD's, then there may be some DC offset in the preamp. In that case, you could switch to an unused input and turning it up past 51 would still trip the DC protection circuit of the MX-R's. In that case we need to send you instructions on adjusting the DC offset of the KX-R .

If it only trips with specific BD's, then there is probably some really loud LFE on the disc that is tripping the protection circuit. It trips at 2 volts DC, but I made a graph recently (I don't remember if I still have it) and it will trip at something like 4 volts with a 0.1 Hz signal (like an explosion). We had a customer once that had a CD that would trip the protection circuit on his setup every time he played it above a certain level. We analyzed the disc and somebody must have kicked the microphone stand or something, because there was the really high level signal well below 1 Hz at one point on the disc. We told him that the three choices were to not play that particular disc so loud or, we could make a copy of that disc and run that track through a high-pass filter to get rid of the sub-sonic noise, or he could send the unit back to us and we could change the parameters on the DC sensing circuit so that the disc wouldn't trip the threshold. I think he ended up just playing the disc not so loud. He just thought that there might be something wrong with the amp and wanted to make sure.

Let us know the specifics of your situation and we'll find a solution.

Thanks,
Charlie Hansen
Ayre Acoustics, Inc.


Pretty much every action movie that I have trips above 51. Some trip at 52 or 53 but it is always there. There might be a few movies here and there that don't trip, (Like, The Notebook) but for the most part most movies cause it to trip. This is the reason I asked several posts ago about Blu Ray movies being so much quieter than CDs. Still shocks me that 40 on the KXR is LOUD on a CD but 51 is not really loud playing a blu ray movie. I will try an unused input and turn it up and see where it goes from there. To be honest, I would love to know how to adjust the DC offset on the KXR because I would like to know those kind of things. It would be fun to check anyway.

After everything so far tested, I just figured there was a setting somewhere I was missing. At least that doesn't seem to be the case thus far.


Tim,

Thank you for the input. I will try and put it on 2 channel soundtracks when that option is available.


NePrince,

It might be that. It does it in many scenes on many different movies and I can replicate it on the same scenes over and over so it might be the disc. It even clips on my Dukes of Hazzard DVD box sets. Not extremely loud discs or big explosions but still trips.


Out of curiosity, could cables contribute to DC offset at all? I have pretty good cables but thought I would ask anyway.

Sword
post #1339 of 1423
Ok, I was inspired by the above to try fuses. I decided to just replace the inlet fuses to start. I used Synergistic fuses since I was impressed with some of their other products. The DX-5 and MX-R fuses improved the sound enough to justify the cost. However, when I installed the KX-R fuse it blew. I thought it must have been a defective fuse, so I tried the Synergistic fuse that I had previously installed in the DX-5 and it blew too.mad.gif I put the stock fuse back and everything was fine.

Charles, or anyone else, do you have any idea why a 1 amp fuse made by Synergistic would work in the DX-5 but blow in the KX-R?
post #1340 of 1423
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Wiens View Post

Ok, I was inspired by the above to try fuses. I decided to just replace the inlet fuses to start. I used Synergistic fuses since I was impressed with some of their other products. The DX-5 and MX-R fuses improved the sound enough to justify the cost. However, when I installed the KX-R fuse it blew. I thought it must have been a defective fuse, so I tried the Synergistic fuse that I had previously installed in the DX-5 and it blew too.mad.gif I put the stock fuse back and everything was fine.

Charles, or anyone else, do you have any idea why a 1 amp fuse made by Synergistic would work in the DX-5 but blow in the KX-R?

Hello Tim,

This is another reason why I've not experimented with fancy fuses -- the penalty factor for any sort of problem is pretty high...

Real fuse companies rate their fuses by a quantity called "I^2t", pronounced "eye squared tee". This is an amount of energy that is the current (in amperes) squared times time (in seconds). This puts a quantitative value onto a subjective label such a "fast blow" or "slow blow". So for example, we can look at the Littelfuse website and see that their Series 218, 5x20 mm, 1 amp, slow blow has an I^2t value of 6.73 A^2sec. This is what we use in our products.

http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/Electronics/Datasheets/Fuses/Littelfuse_Fuse_218_Datasheet.pdf

Now if we go to Digikey, who sells a large number of brands and put in the same specifications -- Glass Cartridge, 5x20 mm, 1 amp, slow-blow, 250 VAC, we can find I^2t values ranging from 2.4 A^2sec to 28 A^2sec, a variation of greater than ten to one! So a 1 A slow-blow fuse is not a 1 A slow-blow fuse.

The peak surge energy drawn by any specific piece of equipment will depend on many factors. First of all the largest surge occurs at turn-on. There are two main culprits. The first is the transformer itself. If you put a multimeter across the primary leads, the DC resistance will generally read in the range between a few tenths of an ohm (for a large transformer) and a few ohms (for a small transformer). If this is all there were to the situation, the transformer would be more like a light bulb, glowing red hot until it melted. But we are not sending it DC during actual operation but instead AC. Now the inductance of the transformer comes into play and limits the current. Every transformer has some "leakage inductance". This is inductance in the primary winding that is not coupled to the secondary winding, but instead creates a stray magnetic field around the transformer. This requires energy, and hence some current draw. At turn-on, it takes a fraction of a second to build up this magnetic field, and while it is doing so, it draws more current than normal.

The other culprit are the filter capacitors. These are charged up from zero volts to their full operating voltage. usually within about ten cycles of the 50 or 60 Hz incoming voltage. For the first half cycle, the capacitor is virtually a dead short and the only thing that limits the current are the stray resistances of the internal wiring, the primary and secondary windings of the transformer, the fuse resistance, and the impedance of the rectifiers, et cetera. We have a Tektronix current probe that connects to an oscilloscope and we were measuring the peak current at turn-on for the new VX-5 power amplifier, and even though it idles at about 2 or 2.5 amps, the peak turn-on surge was well above 50 amps!

In this case the only thing to do is use a higher value for the KX-R. You can ask Synergistics what the I^2t value is for their fuses and get one that is at least 7 A^2 sec. I'm sure it won't hurt to go to 10 A^2 sec. However I would be surprised if they have that data. If not, just go to the next larger size. The I^2t values climb very quickly. For example the same Littelfuse in a 1.25 A rating has roughly double the I^2t as the 1 A fuse, and the 1.6 A fuse has roughly double again the I^2t rating. But at $30 a pop, it is pretty expensive experimentation...

Good luck,
Charlie Hansen
Ayre Acoustics, Inc.
post #1341 of 1423
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sword of Levi View Post

Out of curiosity, could cables contribute to DC offset at all? I have pretty good cables but thought I would ask anyway.

Hello Sword,

Sorry, I've been super busy and missed a few posts. No, the cables shouldn't have anything to do with it. As far as adjusting the DC offset of the KX-R, it is fairly tricky. We have a special bottom plate with 4 small holes drilled in it so that we can get it up to temperature and then adjust the offset with the cover plate in place. But soon we will be offering very expensive upgrades for the R series products to celebrate our 20th anniversary. The KX-R Twenty will be the first one, and the entire audio circuit (including the regulators for the power supply) will be replaced. The parts that remain the same are the chassis, the transformer, the volume control, connectors, and display. The price increase is right at 50% and current units will be upgradeable for the price difference between the old and new models. If you bought the unit from an authorized dealer (new or used), you will also receive a five year extension on the warranty (from the date of the upgrade). If you bought it used from a private party or non-Ayre dealer, the warranty extension will be shorter, probably one or two years (we haven't decided yet).

The crazy thing is that it was just like the DX-5. I was very happy with it and felt it was perhaps the best product that we had ever designed. But the new version stomps the old version into the ground. I'm going to have to say it again. The KX-R Twenty sounds twice as good as the original. I had no idea that it was possible. I was completely happy with the original version. But if you have a KX-R, get it updated and it will knock your socks off. The reason I went off on this tangent is that all of our products except for phono stages and the AX-7 integrated amplifier are true DC amplifiers. There are no servos or coupling caps or anything. So it gets tricky to keep them stable over temperature and time. But we've discovered some new tricks there as well. So if you have some DC offset problems with your KX-R and you feel like killing a mosquito with a sledgehammer, just get the upgrade. We will be shipping them before the end of the year.

Thanks,
Charles Hansen
Ayre Acoustics, Inc.
post #1342 of 1423
Quote:
Originally Posted by neprince View Post

I have Peter Gabriel's Shaking The Tree Hybryd Stereo SACD pressed in Austria. Cat# SAPGTVD6. I didn't buy other remastered titles since I don't like the sound of this one. But it plays on my DX5DSD with no flaws...

Hello Prince,

Thanks for the feedback. Our customer in the UK is having a problem with that one particular disc. Everything else plays fine. Of course it is out of print and they sell for $100 to $200. He cited "Solsbury Hill" as one of the tracks that was giving him trouble. I was able to borrow a copy of the Peter Gabriel (1, "rainy windshield", "car") with "Solsbury Hill" and it plays fine on the DX-5 I have at my house. We'll figure it out sooner or later... Thanks for checking.

Best regards,
Charles Hansen
Ayre Acoustics, Inc.
post #1343 of 1423
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Ukrainian View Post

Following in the footsteps of Sword of Levi, I want to replace all the stock fuses in my DX-5 and MX-R. To give my system better dynamics, will you approve of higher values as below and check my order before I pay and have it shipped to me:

IMPORTANT: Both DX-5 and MX-R are set up for Europe and are 220V units!

DX-5: I need 1 fuse 5mmX20mm, slow blow, 500mA/250V (other available values are: 630mA, 800mA, 1A, 1.25A, 1.6A, 2A). Please recommend the best value for sound and the unit operation.

2 MX-R: for IEC I need 2 fuses (1 for each MX-R) 5mmX20mm, slow blow, 3.15A/250V (other available values are: 4A and 5A). I know  4A is better than 3.15A. Would 5A be even better?
Input rail fuses: I need 2 (1 for each MX-R) 5mmX20mm, fast blow, 160mA/250V (the only available values are: 250mA and 500 mA). Since 160 mA is unavailable, shall I go for 250 or 500 mA?
Output rail fuses: I need 2 (1 for each MX-R) 5mmX20mm, fast blow, 10A/250V (also available 20A). Shall I stick to 10A or will 20A be better for sound?

Dear Ukranian,

I'm very sorry for the delayed response. I have been so busy that the notification for this slipped under my radar and I just saw your post today.

In general increasing the current rating of the fuse will improve the sound slightly. This is because the resistance of the fuse will be lower and it will also vary less with temperature, causing less voltage modulation. The flip side is that it provides less protection for your equipment. Some people replace their fuses with pieces of 5 mm diameter copper rod and claim large sonic benefits. Of course if something goes wrong, this can also lead to large fires.....

Unless there is an issue such as Tim Wiens is having, where the recommended fuse size doesn't work, I generally wouldn't recommend increasing size much, if at all. In the case of the 160 mA fast blow fuses inside the MX-R, we have had several people replace them with 250 mA parts as the 160 mA parts were not available. We have not heard of any issues with this. But the unit originally shipped with 500 mA parts and we had many failures of the driver transistors with this fuse value -- basically whenever the output fuse would blow, so would the driver transistors. So we cut it back to 160 mA and since then have only had one customer who had problems with those fuses blowing when he would drive the amplifier to clipping. He changed them to 250 mA and has been happy ever since.

In your case, I would stay with the recommended valued from the chart on page 43 of this thread (divided by two for the IEC fuses of 220 - 240 volt countries), except you will have to use 250 mA fast blow for the input rail fuses of the MX-R, and if you are using Synergistics fuses, you will need to use a higher value for the KX-R IEC fuse (as pointed out in Tim Wiens' post up the page), perhaps to 1.25 A or 1.5 A slow-blow. Going high risks not only damaging your equipment in case of any problems, but even the possibility of a fire. It would not be fun to come home from a weekend trip to see your house burned to the ground....

I think the people that put copper rods in place of fuses always completely unplug their equipment except when they are listening to it. The problem with that is it can take anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 days for your equipment to sound fully warmed up after plugging it back in, depending on how long it has been since you listened to it last. So if you listen to your equipment every day and keep a fire extinguisher handy, you could use almost any fuse value. We do everything that we can to lessen the degradation caused by fuses. All of them are bypassed by capacitors to reduce the effects of any modulation. We have used thermal circuit breakers in the past, but in our newest products (AX-5, KX-5, VX-5) we are using magnetic circuit breakers (for the IEC inlet), which should offer the best sound quality of any protection device. Unfortunately we did this based on theory and specifications rather than listening tests, so I cannot report how much of an improvement it made.

Best regards,
Charles Hansen
Ayre Acoustics, Inc.
post #1344 of 1423
Wow! Thanks for your very detailed and informative explanation on the subject of fuses. I had no idea it was so complicated.

Synergistic offers a 1.25A and 1.6A. If you think there is a reasonable chance that the 1.25A would work, or that the 1.6A wouldn't create an unnecessary risk to the KX-R, I might give it a try. But at $59.95 each, I'm not sure I still have the enthusiasm for experimenting wink.gif

I guess I better start saving for the KX-R upgrade too.
post #1345 of 1423
Hello Tim,

I would contact Synergistics before I did anything. Explain to them what happened and ask them for the I^2t values of the 1.0, 1.25, and 1.6 amp fuses. The markup on those has to be absolutely tremendous. I'm sure they aren't paying more than a few dollars per fuse. If they have anyone there that understands anything about fuses, they should be able to get the manufacturer to provide them with the I^2t values. If they have any integrity, they will give you some free replacements. The two biggest names in fuses are Littelfuse and Bussman. The Bussman I^2t value is within a few percent of the Littelfuse. They should make their products compatible with the industry standards, IMNSHO. You can't get any more "standard" than Littelfuse and Bussman when it comes to fuses.

Good luck,
Charlie Hansen
Ayre Acoustics, Inc.
post #1346 of 1423
Charles, I would be interested if you could compare the C-5xeMP with the current DX-5 DSD edition.

I've upgraded my V-5xe & K-5xeMP to the VX-5 & KX-5, respectively. I am thinking about upgrading my C-5xeMP as well now. I understand the DSD improvements are quite dramatic. I've considered the QB-9 DSD but like the DX-5's ability to act like a QB-9 or an optical disc spinner.

I'm expecting to hear that the DX-5 DSD subtly, or greatly, improves upon the C-5xeMP but would be curious to get your opinion.
post #1347 of 1423
Hello Jax,

I would say that the DX-5-DSD will give roughly the same improvement over the C-5xeMP as the KX-5 and VX-5 gave over the K-5xeMP and V-5xe. In other words, pretty significant. However the DSD upgrade was so popular that we are almost sold out of Oppo platforms, wo we are basically at the end of life of the DX-5-DSD. If you want one, you better order right away.

However, the DX-5 really only makes sense if you are at least going to watch a video occasionally. If all you want is audio, I would wait until next year. We will have two transports, one with audio only and one with video and audio, and a separate audio DAC.

Hope this helps,
Charles Hansen
Ayre Acoustics, Inc.
post #1348 of 1423
Thanks Charles. It's interesting that the C-5 has been in production for almost 9 years (if I recall correctly). I guess that product will remain in the lineup for a while.
post #1349 of 1423
Hi Jax,

For $6000, the C-5xeMP offers a lot of performance and a lot of versatility. To upgrade the performance would require replacing the entire main PCB, which would probably be at least $2000. That doesn't really make much sense if your player is nine years old already... Between the "evolution" upgrade and the "MP" upgrade, we've taken that platform about as far as we can for a reasonable price. And of course at some point we will reach the point where we need to quit making them so that we can save enough players just for spare parts. They have been very reliable and Pioneer has been very good about maintaining a parts supply, but we like to have our own stock also.

Best regards,
Charles Hansen
Ayre Acoustics, Inc.
post #1350 of 1423
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Hansen View Post

Hello Sword,



The KX-R Twenty sounds twice as good as the original. I had no idea that it was possible. I was completely happy with the original version. But if you have a KX-R, get it updated and it will knock your socks off. The reason I went off on this tangent is that all of our products except for phono stages and the AX-7 integrated amplifier are true DC amplifiers. There are no servos or coupling caps or anything. So it gets tricky to keep them stable over temperature and time. But we've discovered some new tricks there as well. So if you have some DC offset problems with your KX-R and you feel like killing a mosquito with a sledgehammer, just get the upgrade. We will be shipping them before the end of the year.

Thanks,
Charles Hansen
Ayre Acoustics, Inc.

Hi Charles,

I just bought an Ayre VX-5 from my local authorized Ayre dealer which I haven't even received yet. The order was placed by my dealer earlier this week.

On another forum, and after buying my VX-5, I just read about the DC offset problems with another potential customer who actually measured the DC offset of his demo VX-5 amp and reported it to your company. He spoke with Michael at your company about the issue. I am very disturbed after reading about this problem and found more about it here on AVS after reading his post.

My question to you, are the current VX-5 amplifiers being shipped by your factory now going to have the same "tricks to keep them stable over temperature and time" as will be done with your KX-R series without having to do an expensive upgrade later on? I am most anxious to hear your response regarding this issue regarding the VX-5 amplifiers being shipped by your company at this time.

Thank you,

Bob
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