thrifty white gain ?

TWH ...as you already know...has a very glossy and smooth White surface. It's gain is more similar to that of a Mirror, than to a screen, and as such it will not refract light evenly, but return "direct" light right back 'atcha.

As noted through the comments a few others have made, if you position a PJ (PJ very low) so that from your viewing location you cannot see the obvious reflection of the Bulb itself, (...also put the PJ's lamp on Low...) you can get a watchable image, as much as such an inappropriate can provide.

A desirable Screen gain as your referring to needs only to be something in the 1.2 to 2.0 range. Screen size, Projector luminosity specs, both combining such with...or through the excluding the need for Ambient Light performance will determine the actual needed gain as well as the color of the Screen.

TWH is intended to be a White substrate that when correctly coated with very thin layers of paint will allow the underline surface to redirect absorb light to the original reflective screen surface.

The TWH is really not a suitable surface as is.

I used painted TWB, and took a picture of it before I painted. It's real glossy


When they say "white board" I think they mean like a white board in a conference room, the kind you use with dry erase markers.

S-I-L-V-E-R is a good choice if sprayed on correctly. It's the simplest of mixes...but requires by far the most ultra thin coats (7-8)

RS-MaxxxMudd is almost as high a gain but also allows for the occasional bout with low level ambient light. Fairly simple to mix as well as reasonably inexpensive. Spray is best...but rolling it acceptable. Required (sprayed) coats (3)

S-I-L-V-E-R* has the Pop & Bam you want...so does RS-MaxxxMudd.

*only Silver Fire has the same intense colors and whites as S-I-L-V-E-R, while maintaining whites as "white". It cannot match S-I-L-V-E-R's gain (1.4+) but at 1.2 it's close enough for any "Light Controlled" Theater setting. Of course it's the Champ at delivering the best ambient light performance. Only the need to obtain 8 ingrediants and mix 'em up keeps it from garnering the degree of users it might otherwise.

It does however spray on as easy as RS-MaxxxMudd and does a fabulous job over TWH. Watch this post...I'll put some recent images up of a SF w/TWH screen in a few minutes.

....and here they are......

Lottsa Pop in this one.


















These images seem to jump off the screen in person...and the usual comment? "It's just like a Huge TV." Considering that these Screens share space with 4 - 46" Panasonic Viera's that have 2,000,000:1 Dynamic Contrast...that says pretty much all that needs to be said about that.

From outside on the Patio looking through a Tinted Plate Glass window with the Screen over 50' away in Ambient Light



BTW...the PJ was NOT calibrated for such a Dark Gray Screen. With SF, such is hardly necessary if the required Lumens are present (2500 with these examples)...but some degree of adjustment simply will make it "Mo Bedder". All the images are "In Motion"...none are freezes.

OWWWwww...! I hate waking up with Beer cans under me.


EXTREMELY little, and further reduced due to either of the two best mixes being so "wet" and also because of the drastically reduced amount of time it takes to apply each coat.

I just finished a Sam Adam's Octoberfest (...only SA I'll drink...) but I had the good sense to toss the bottle away from my bed.

Hold on.......

Wagner info:

Get the Wagner Control Spray DD (Double Duty) or original Control Spray A good price is anything at or under $60.00. Normal price retail is $70.00. Check online for any major Store that has one, Web or otherwise, print out the ad, and take it into HD or Lowes to see if they'll match it.

How to use?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...078&highlight=

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...093&highlight=

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...775&highlight=

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...514&highlight=




S-I-L-V-E-R THREADS.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...826&highlight=
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...134&highlight=
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...573&highlight=

• Remember.
• 2' per second across the board.
• 14" from the surface
• Gun held level and steady
• Never stop or slow going across the material
• Start the first row 60% off the Top of the board and drop only 40% with each subsequent row.
• Be sure that the edges of the Screen are "backed" with a material for "running out over" the leading edge of the screen...to avoid "Vortex-ing" and the resulting weaker coverage at the edge.
• Always do your 40% drop "OFF" the material then run back onto the material
• Rinse out Gun's Nozzle and Spray head after every coat
• Practice on something first.
• Lastly, S-I-L-V-E-R'S FIRST 2-3 COATS LOOK BAD...SOMETIMES HARDLY NOTICEABLE (cap attack ) It is not until the 4th-5th coat it really starts to pick up and be noticeable. \\IOf it is before that time...youR applying too much at once...and too soon. Runs will haunt you if you do.

Look to your PM for a Phone number if you need any real time advice.

MMan

It won't. Your spraying...not rolling, and you need the degree of precision while spraying that leaning over such a flat expanse does not allow. Besides that you cannot tilt the Wagner to a horizontal plane to a horizontal surface.


Home Depot sells Teflon Coated 1 Gallon Metal paint cans w/lids. You can use the Plastic paint Pails to mix in as well, or to pour the excess Glaze into and the use the Can the Glaze came in to mix. (...or see below...)


No, but one does not benefit from trying to guess exactly how much to have so they have almost nothing left over. Besides, practicing on another piece of material will assure you of both improved confidence in your skill and the ability to follow those "easy enough" instructions.....easily enough so that you don't too easily do something wrong.

Funny how they charge more for that brand than for LN for Projects.
I don't use LN myself much....but when gluing two pieces of Hardboard together...always.


Hey...DIY'ing means doing such "re-do's" yerself too. Letting the LN Gas Out before you place any real stress on a flexible panel is very important. 24 hours is best to do so.


Try to use some of that time for a few practice coats. Re-Mix (power stir) and strain the paint every time....and be advised that the water content in the S-I-L-V-E-R mix will evaporate pretty quickly, so after you get the original mix made up, judge the viscosity as you progress well, then compare it with all subsequent re-loads.

If you mix it up and then just spray a;; day, sealing the can up as you go, then all that checking isn't required. But should you mix it up in advance and practice...it's a good thing to note how thin/thick the mix is before you spray. (...ALWAYS test your load on something else besides your screen!...)

Just thought I would add that for safety (not tryin' to step on your toes brother).

OP, Rinsing your gun's nozzle and spray head with warm/hot water will cause the paint sitting on the inside of the gun to get gummy and create paint build, possibly hurting the guns performance. Best to avoid that.

I don't understand your problem? You must not be using "LN For Projects" because I just stuck two pieces of hardboard....Brown hardboard (rough side) and Thrifty White (Brown smooth side) together at 3:30 pm Central....and then hung the assembly up to paint on it at 6 PM. Now yeas....it was still "stinkin' but there was NO WAY you could separate the two. What type of LN did you buy?


Yes.....the Delta SM is a Michael's item.


Ya got that part right.

The Faux Glaze as well.

1 Gallon Nylon Sock Filters? (...That Cone Filter won't do nearly as good a job as a Nylon Sock Filter, which will fit snugly over a Gallon Can...and wrap nicely over the Wagner's Paint Cup. I've never found any "Cone" filter to do the job anywhere near as well as a Nylon "Sock" filter.)

Nothing wrong with that....in fact it's safer to do so, and you can more easily judge your previous efforts when the screen is completely dry. Another thing to note...although the first 2-4 coats will dry between 30 minutes to 1 hour, as you go on with additional coats...drying times increase. This is due to the preponderance of the Glaze build up. So taking it easy and slow is actually beneficial to the DIY'er success rate.

Myself....I do 'em asap...because it behooves me to get 'em done ASAP...but more importantly after having done so many I'm able to judge just exactly when I can proceed safely. For all others...taking so extra time just makes good common sense.

Good Luck! 1 down....7 more to go.


.........shhhhhhhhhhhhh. CMRA might be listening.

He "hoards" all the S-I-L-V-E-R.

He's movin'. How does the build-up appear? Is it's consistency getting more even?

That sounds as if you did not power stir the S-I-L-V-E-R in the Wagner Cup container between coats. As the mix settles, water and buoyant SM particles separate from the Glaze and come forth at a far more diluted rate. You wind up misting the surface with water and sparklies.

Cardinal Rule No# 1.
Don't Rush it.

Cardinal Rule No# 2.
Don't second guess the appearance of the thinness of the application.


Absolutely not the best decision you could make. As previously stated, the repeated coats past the 2nd-3rd ones take progressively longer to dry. The Glaze acts to seal in moisture, decreasing the "evaporation rate". Only applied dry heat, ambient or directed...will decrease dry times, but applying forced heat is very risky because the "Tackiness" will grab onto dust and hair, leaving you with a blemished surface.

This is enough of an issue that I resort to "Clean room Mode' and make sure that there is no air moving in the room during the initial drying time, and even...while I spray... wear clothes that hold no lint, and wear a Hat to keep my unruly strands in place.

All that simply because the same attributes that S-I-L-V-E-R uses to make it be an exceptional performer also can serve to magnify blemishes of any type...pre-existing or introduced after a coat is applied.

Spray-induced blemishes can be / are just as bad or worse. Trying to cover such things up with successive coats is not a guaranteed solution, mostly because to do so requires enough extra coats that therein results an excessive amount of Silver Metallic build-up on the surface...giving one a "Too Reflective" surface.


Oh really....? Well don't dwell on that aspect too over long, because the ratio of Silver Metallic in S-I-L-V-E-R has pretty much been predetermined, and it's the number of coats applied...at what rate of speed and distance....that determines the eventual reflective properties of the end result one sees come off the surface.

One reason so many have tried using Silver Metallic mixes in the past is because of how incredibly such can effect performance. But all the same, the balance point between too little SM to make a difference, and too much so that results are unacceptable is a fine line (...or razor's edge.... ) on must negotiate very cautiously, lest one slip and excise off a valuable part of one's anatomy.


A spankin'


I knew that was comin'


You HAVE been duly warned.....so do not apply any more than 2 additional coats before testing again...and make them the type of coats done in the manne they should be don.


I knew that was coming too.


Examine the surface as a whole...as well as how the blemishes (runs w/SM highlighted) stand out during lighter content and panning. Note how close you must get until you can obviously see any SM particles in the "good" areas. look at the entire equation and present your opinions and findings.

Only do not deviate wildly from conventional wisdom and advice. If you do...then your professed end results cannot be construed as being relevant to S-I-L-V-E-R as a whole, making the effort be re-delegated to that of a purely conjectural experiment.

Do I talk like this on the phone?