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A couple riser questions...

post #1 of 8
10/1/09 at 12:23am
Thread Starter 
Hey all.

My 1st question is, should a riser be put or built all the way up against back and side walls??

2nd, is there a need to put plywood underneath ur riser to say...close it up (if that makes sense)?

3rd, is 13" too high a riser for a 2nd row of seating with a step @ 7.5? Just want to make sure the 2nd row of peoples views are not blocked by any heads...etc.

Going to be using 2x12s, 2x8s, and 3/4" sub floor plywood. Going to glue dwn plywood with liquid nails after filling with insulation. Is it better to use nails or screws for riser? Also, is there any advantage or disadvantage in using u boats so that ur riser is suspended and is there anything wrong with no using u boats and just having the base/frame of ur riser just laying on top of the felt? Sorry, really confused-lol- Any tips or suggestions are fully welcome =)
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post #2 of 8
10/1/09 at 4:28am
Most people like to decouple the risers and stages from the walls... even a fraction of an inch. The base board trim will cover the gap.

No need to put plywood under the riser.

Check out the riser height calculator to determine if 13" is tall enough.

Screws are better

I didn't use u-boats, but there are many that do. I simply built my riser on top of the roofing felt over bare concrete. I suppose uboats could also help with a slightly uneven floor... or if you build bass shakers into the riser.

Quote:
Originally Posted by silverfox64 View Post

Hey all.

My 1st question is, should a riser be put or built all the way up against back and side walls??

2nd, is there a need to put plywood underneath ur riser to say...close it up (if that makes sense)?

3rd, is 13" too high a riser for a 2nd row of seating with a step @ 7.5? Just want to make sure the 2nd row of peoples views are not blocked by any heads...etc.

Going to be using 2x12s, 2x8s, and 3/4" sub floor plywood. Going to glue dwn plywood with liquid nails after filling with insulation. Is it better to use nails or screws for riser? Also, is there any advantage or disadvantage in using u boats so that ur riser is suspended and is there anything wrong with no using u boats and just having the base/frame of ur riser just laying on top of the felt? Sorry, really confused-lol- Any tips or suggestions are fully welcome =)
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post #3 of 8
10/1/09 at 5:56am
While we'are on this topic, if youhave a riser that is wall to wall, do you need to put in your drywall before constructing the riser or can you frame in the room, build the riser and then just run the drywall down to along the wall until it hits the top of the riser.
[wall]
[wall][dw]
[wall][dw]
[wall][dw]
[wall][dw]
[wall][dw]
[wall][dw]
[wall][dw]
[wall] [---------riser--------
[wall] [---------riser--------

DW= drywall
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post #4 of 8
10/1/09 at 6:03am
Best sound proofing practice is to drywall the room first. Then build risers, stages, columns and decorative soffits inside the drywalled airtight enclosure. Obviously soffits enclosing ducts and pipes are exceptions.
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post #5 of 8
10/1/09 at 6:26am
Built my riser directly attached to the side wall, then sheetrocked down to the top of the riser. Didn't use U boats, just PL'd the green treated x12s to the slab. The house hasn't fallen down yet.

I would assume that if you want to add shakers to your riser, such that the whole thing rumbles with the bass, you'd be best off to decouple it from the walls (1/4 air gap) and the floor (u boats)

Using x12s for the riser and x6s for the steps worked well enough for me (3/4 OSB for the top surface, screwed down without adhesive. But check out the riser height calculator stickied around here somewhere.

-Suntan
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post #6 of 8
10/1/09 at 10:20am
Thread Starter 
Thank you so much for every1s replies!! So helpful.

So when screwing dwn the plywood, adhesive is not needed 1st? I was going to use liquid nails to apply the top to the frame and then screw it dwn. Not a good idea??

Also, is it ok to not bolt the riser to the floor?? Just build it on top of the felt and there ya go? lol. I figured the weight of the riser would be enough for it to not move an inch. Thoughts....?
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post #7 of 8
10/1/09 at 6:46pm
I would use the adhesive. The only possible reason not to would be if you needed to go back in to the riser at a later date to replace a Bass shaker, if you put one in. If I ever need to service mine I will just cut an access panel.

You do not need to bolt it to the floor, It will not move.

Greg
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post #8 of 8
10/1/09 at 11:41pm
Thread Starter 
Thnx again 4 the replies!
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