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Panasonic PT-AE4000 MSRP $1999 - Page 99

post #2941 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by MLock View Post

I have an inherited AE900U but would like to bump up to 1080p. This is the projector I want. What I can't seem to find any information on is the mount -- my 900U is ceiling mounted -- are all mounts from the 900U era (2005) standard to today's projectors? Can I just take down the 900U and mount the 4000U to the same bracket?

Stupid question, from a stupid (at least as far as HT goes) guy.

I replaced a 900 with 4000 in the old Chief universal mount. I put the pj upside down on a table and kept moving bracket parts until they all lined up with holes, almost like solving a puzzle. For a while I thought it was not going to work, but I finally hit the right arrangement.

Ed
post #2942 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by qlee72 View Post

Thanks Bob! The shower strainer looks like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5SMYO/ref=asc_df_B000H5SMYO998279?tag=the004-20&creative=380333&creativeASIN=B000H5SMYO&linkCode=asn
I thought I'd paint it the same color as the box (maroon/burgandy) to help blend in. We'll see.
Chill pad was nice because it has 2 quiet fans and it exhausts out the front. Maybe if I need it, I'll mount it to the top of the box where it would be hotter. I'd have to paint it white or the standard ceiling color (bone). I wanted to minimize the cutting if possible.

Here's a pic of the box and the accessories I might put in to cool it, if needed.
LL
LL
post #2943 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by qlee72 View Post

Here's a pic of the box and the accessories I might put in to cool it, if needed.

That's very different than what I pictured, you have plenty of height. The vent covers would certainly work, but I think you'd be fine just drilling some 2" holes at the very rear of the shelf, preferably through the bottom, although the sides would work.

The projector fan will pull the air, it just needs a supply, and without holes it will pull hot air from the ceiling (and that air will be hot). You want the holes as far from the ceiling as possible.
post #2944 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by JHouse View Post

There will be NO COMPARISON. Better be wearing a diaper when you first fire it up on the new screen. You'll pee, just a little.

Agreed
I have a 106" Stewart Firehawk 1.4 and the blu-ray movies are jaw dropping.
post #2945 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by qlee72 View Post

So due to 13' throw distance and the size of the room, etc. I've narrowed down the screen to 120" (16:9). Question is, should I get a grey screen (.9 gain) or white screen (1.3 gain)? The cost difference is only $30 more for the grey. The sales rep said since 4000U has 100k to 1 contrast ration, I should be ok w/ the white screen and save a few bucks. But since $30 isn't much, should I go with the grey or go with the white screen and maybe use the PJ in eco mode to save lamp life?

I'll just say it. Gray screens blow. Use the white screen. You will like the picture much better. You will need the gain, and the Panny has a ton of contrast.
post #2946 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Picture View Post

Your bookcase projector setup makes things a lot clearer too.

Thank you.

The bottom of my 133" diag screen is only 18" from the floor. The throw distance is 16.5 feet. I measure, and in an upright position, in the chair (though I always lean back some) the light is only 4" above my head. When I lean back, since I'm going both down and back, it is a lot more, and I can't spot any decrease in gain from the High Power.
post #2947 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by korkster View Post

O.K. everyone, after much consternation and hours and hours of reviewing everyone's input in several different pj threads, I pulled the trigger and bought the Panasonic PT-AE4000U. This is my first projector, and I was so totally confused by all the information out there, I decided that it might make sense to just go with this one as it seemed the best value. I was worried that it might not be bright enough, or that the picture might not be as sharp as others, and on and on and on..... I am projecting onto a 115" wide A/T screen from Seymour with a 1.2 gain from about 17 feet away. The room is in the basement so I have very good light control.

Well, I couldn't be happier with this projector. Now again, I'm no expert, I'm simply someone who likes to watch movies, and when all is said and done, that's what this is all about, isn't it? This pj is great. Brightness is not an issue and the picture is breathtaking. I was contemplating a JVC RS-10 several months ago, and saw one in action in a local store. It was no more impressive than the Panny as far as I'm concerned. I'm sure if they were side by side the JVC would maybe show somewhat better, but the Panny is less than half the price and it would take some doing for me to see that much difference. I haven't watched anything other than Blu-Rays at this point so I can't speak for what it does with other formats, but to this point it looks great, right out of the box with no other calibration except to knock it down to eco-mode.

I've since packed it away again since I'm still not done with my build, and I want to protect it from any unnecessary dust that's still flying around, but I thought I'd throw in my two cents at this point for what it's worth because I know there are a lot of people here sweating the details just as I was. I can't speak highly enough about this projector, and for that matter, the Seymour A/T screen as well. Both are great products in my opinion. And everyone in my family that had a chance to view it while it was up agrees.

I think that sometimes we can get so wrapped up in every little detail that we lose track of the big picture, so to speak; I know I did. "Paralysis by analysis." You could spend a whole lot more money for a pj, but I don't think you'd do a whole lot better.

I agree with you 100%, ever since seeing a friends PT-AE2000 at his house, I was on a mission to research the death out of projectors. I took so long that the PT-AE3000 that I was looking at was being phased out, so I waited for the PT-AE4000 and I have watched near 80 hours already in 3 weeks. So ya I am happy

Still agonizing over the screen selection though, was going to do a low cost WA Designer White laminate screen, but for a 52"x92" screen (I am width limited) I found only 5'x12' available for $130 from 2 different laminate distributors. The local Home Depot said they would not order any Wilsonart unless I was buying a kitchen from them, keep in mind I am Canada perhaps that is the policy here.

I want a fixed screen, and have researched the Da-Lite HP ones and I think I am a good candidate (livingroom with light color walls, some unavoidable light, projector just above heads behind sofa) but the fixed screen prices seem very high vs a pulldown. I can buy the low cost Model B pulldown version for $388 vs the lowest cost fixed Da-Snap would be $1398 for the same size. Can a frame really be worth $1000? I would consider buying the pulldown model and cut the screen off the roller, mounting it on my own frame, but I don't think the pulldown screen backing will stretch to allow for a flat surface, anyone try?
post #2948 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by xenon2000 View Post

I had (had because I sold the house with the theater) the same issue but with all different items. Sound but no video. 80GB PS3->Onkyo HT-S907->HD70 via HDMI all at 720p which should have been no issue.

It only happened with the PS3 and no other HDMI device through the chain. I would get sound but no video. Even up to Nov 2009, with the latest firmware on the PS3 and the Projector. Same issue. The only way I would get Video and Audio from my PS3 through my AV, was if I made sure I turned on the PS3 first before the AV. The HD70 could be on or off, didn't matter. But the PS3 had to be on and booted before the AV. So I would walk in, turn on the HD70 so the bulb would start warming up, turn on the PS3 (that is in standby), wait about 15 secs and then turn on the Onkyo. Works 100% of the time flawlessly if the PS3 is on before the Onkyo.

Odd issue, but based on that, my problem has to be the Onkyo and how it handles the HDCP. Instead of bugging Onkyo about it, I just turn the PS3 on first.

Maybe you could try something similar. Try turning on your player and AE4000 first and then turn on the Receiver. Curious if the fix is the same as me for the same issue.

Thanks Xenon2000. I will try as you describe when I return from CES next week. I will post a reply with the result.
post #2949 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by raster8 View Post

I would consider buying the pulldown model and cut the screen off the roller, mounting it on my own frame, but I don't think the pulldown screen backing will stretch to allow for a flat surface, anyone try?

Many have done that, including me. Go to the screen forum here, as there are some recent postings about how to do that.
post #2950 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Whitefield View Post

Yes, it will definitely work, if you don't mind the expense of a second screen. Since the AE4000 remembers focus settings for each lens memory, it won't be a problem that the throw distances are different.

You can also automate screen lowering/raising by associating a trigger with the 16:9 lens memory, but I wouldn't use the auto switching feature in that case, or else it will switch screens whenever the aspect changes, e.g. for commercials and previews.

Keep in mind picture settings aren't associated with lens memories, so if the screen materials are different enough to require different color settings, you'll have to load picture memory settings in addition to lens memory when you switch between 16:9 and 2.35.

I don't know what your wall looks like, but if it's sufficiently wide, you might consider first getting the widest 2.35 screen that will fit. Try it out, then add the retractable screen only if you really want a larger image. I have a 131" 2.37 screen, and I find the 16:9 image completely adequate at 15' viewing distance.

What all does the lens memory function do? I was planning to have a fixed 2:35 screen and a 16:9 electric screen. Will I have to manually shift the lens up or down vertically to fit the screens or is this something the lens memory button can do? I was hoping to hit a button on a Harmony remote to watch HDTV 16:9 material, have the electric screen drop and the Panasonic lens memory make the adjustments to fit that screen, then hit a button to watch 2:35 material, have the electric screen go up, the Panasonic lens memory make the adjustments to fit the fixed screen. Is that possible or not?
post #2951 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by MassGT View Post

Agreed
I have a 106" Stewart Firehawk 1.4 and the blu-ray movies are jaw dropping.

Omg, damn I want my screen already. You guys are making me more anxious. I can only imagine.
post #2952 of 8336
I'm running a 92" Australian Elite screen (not sure if it's the same as the US versions) and from 3m 10ft and i know it's huge and thinking the people going the 110" may find it to big.
My screen was only a cheapy $400aud and it's very very bright, light controlled room and the light movie scenes seem that there is too much contrast that i can't reduce any further. This is with eco turned on and Cinema 1.
My plan was to see if i am able to buy just the Firehawk material and replace what i have. Can someone with a Stewart screen let me know how they attach it to the frame as the one i have is attached with velco on the frame and other side to teh material stiched in.

thanks
post #2953 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by JHouse View Post

I'll just say it. Gray screens blow. Use the white screen. You will like the picture much better. You will need the gain, and the Panny has a ton of contrast.

Thanks Joe! White it is.
post #2954 of 8336
Has anyone seen this odd pattern of lines before? It's like blocks of vertical lines are transposed to nearby areas or something. Makes it like looking through bathroom glass. It DID GO AWAY after powering down and waiting an hour. Here are some screenshots from the Today Show. Any ideas?


LL
LL
post #2955 of 8336
Is a 134" wide, 143' diagonal 57" high High Power screen too big for a bat cave with the 4000? Will be sitting at 13' from the screen.

Thank you.
post #2956 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Picture View Post

Is a 134" wide, 143' diagonal 57" high High Power screen too big for a bat cave with the 4000? Will be sitting at 13' from the screen.

Thank you.

thats a good size, im thinking about going bigger to 150" diagonal
post #2957 of 8336
I just ordered this PJ and have been reading a great deal about the height to mount the PJ and needing to keep the lens no higher than the top of the screen. After looking at Panny's website it seems to contradict this. Here is the web page: http://www.panasonic.net/avc/project...positions.html

Under the section "Projection distance for screen aspect ratio of 2.35:1
(When projecting both 2.35:1 and 16:9 images onto a 2.35:1 screen using the Lens Memory function.)"; there is a column titled "Height from the edge of screen to center of lens". This shows that for a 120" diagonal 2.35 screen, that the lens can be up to 3'11" above the screen and still use the Lens Memory Function.

Is this not accurate?
post #2958 of 8336
Glee72.. If it was my setup I would lose the box. My 4K is on a rear shelf [actually the top of a very large equipment]. I have about 7 inches of clearance between the back of the projector and the wall. There is nothing above the projector nor anything blocking the sides so there is no heat build up. The box is going to trap heated air that the chassis is giving off and the additional fans are going to combine to raise the noise level.
post #2959 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by sotwell View Post

I just ordered this PJ and have been reading a great deal about the height to mount the PJ and needing to keep the lens no higher than the top of the screen. After looking at Panny's website it seems to contradict this. Here is the web page: http://www.panasonic.net/avc/project...positions.html

Under the section "Projection distance for screen aspect ratio of 2.35:1
(When projecting both 2.35:1 and 16:9 images onto a 2.35:1 screen using the Lens Memory function.)"; there is a column titled "Height from the edge of screen to center of lens". This shows that for a 120" diagonal 2.35 screen, that the lens can be up to 3'11" above the screen and still use the Lens Memory Function.

Is this not accurate?

The dimension H is the distance between the top or bottom edge of the screen toward the center of the screen. Allowable offsets above the top or below the bottom edge of the screen are indicated by a negative number for H, as shown in the 16:9 table.
post #2960 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by shwiz View Post

Has anyone seen this odd pattern of lines before? It's like blocks of vertical lines are transposed to nearby areas or something. Makes it like looking through bathroom glass. It DID GO AWAY after powering down and waiting an hour. Here are some screenshots from the Today Show. Any ideas?


That's got to be a signal processing glitch. I presume the rebooting fixed it?
post #2961 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Picture View Post

Is a 134" wide, 143' diagonal 57" high High Power screen too big for a bat cave with the 4000? Will be sitting at 13' from the screen.

Thank you.

That will work fine. It will be BIG. You will get to chose whether you like the look of it on low lamp or high.
post #2962 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by sotwell View Post

I just ordered this PJ and have been reading a great deal about the height to mount the PJ and needing to keep the lens no higher than the top of the screen. After looking at Panny's website it seems to contradict this. Here is the web page: http://www.panasonic.net/avc/project...positions.html

Under the section "Projection distance for screen aspect ratio of 2.35:1
(When projecting both 2.35:1 and 16:9 images onto a 2.35:1 screen using the Lens Memory function.)"; there is a column titled "Height from the edge of screen to center of lens". This shows that for a 120" diagonal 2.35 screen, that the lens can be up to 3'11" above the screen and still use the Lens Memory Function.

Is this not accurate?

That different than the advice that keeps being passed around here, but I have no idea which is right. We need somebody who has actually tried it.
post #2963 of 8336
Is there some way to do ZOOM/FOCUS from the remote control with out the pattern that is showed???

I can do ZOOM/FOCUS with out pattern from the panel into the 4K, no from the remote control.

Any idea?
post #2964 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Picture View Post

Your bookcase projector setup makes things a lot clearer too.

Jhouse, that bookcase setup does look good, but is it closed in the back? If so, you may have a ventilation problem? My understanding is the projector needs access in the back for fresh air, otherwise it sucks in the hot air coming out the front.
post #2965 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro2 View Post

Has anyone checked the calibration of "normal" mode compared to color 1 and cinema 1? It is so much brighter, wondering what the downside is...

anyone?? How off is the ideal calibration in this mode compared to the "best" modes?
post #2966 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro2 View Post

anyone?? How off is the ideal calibration in this mode compared to the "best" modes?

The colors are less accurate and less realistic. If you try Color 1 for a while, several day, Normal will look goofy.
post #2967 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro2 View Post

Jhouse, that bookcase setup does look good, but is it closed in the back? If so, you may have a ventilation problem? My understanding is the projector needs access in the back for fresh air, otherwise it sucks in the hot air coming out the front.

The shelf is pretty deep, so there's about 6 inches clearance behind it. Plus, even on low elevation and low lamp the fan blows the hot air pretty far and therefore clear of the projector, and of course it rises (being hot) and the air behind the projector, where the intake is, is quite cool, probably because it sucks air from below. I could see how this dynamic would differ if it were mounted at the ceiling, where the hottest air and exhaust air accumulate and have nowhere to go. You will note that I also have a great big, slow, silent fan that keeps the air moving, but I only use that about 1/3 of the time.
post #2968 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by sotwell View Post

I just ordered this PJ and have been reading a great deal about the height to mount the PJ and needing to keep the lens no higher than the top of the screen. After looking at Panny's website it seems to contradict this. Here is the web page: http://www.panasonic.net/avc/project...positions.html

Under the section "Projection distance for screen aspect ratio of 2.35:1
(When projecting both 2.35:1 and 16:9 images onto a 2.35:1 screen using the Lens Memory function.)"; there is a column titled "Height from the edge of screen to center of lens". This shows that for a 120" diagonal 2.35 screen, that the lens can be up to 3'11" above the screen and still use the Lens Memory Function.

Is this not accurate?

How I understand that diagram is that if we want to use lens memory on a 2.35:1 screen, we cannot mount the center of the projector lens any higher then the top edge of the screen.

I'm planning to play with this tonight, but on the floor, before I mount. Right now, I've got the projector on its box, on the floor, and center of lens is below the bottom edge of my 2.35:1 screen. I'll see if I can successfully set up 2 memories for 2.35:1 and 16:9. If it works, I'll mount above top edge, if not, I'll need to play around a bit to get the projector lower.

I'll report back what I find out.
post #2969 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by sotwell View Post

I just ordered this PJ and have been reading a great deal about the height to mount the PJ and needing to keep the lens no higher than the top of the screen. After looking at Panny's website it seems to contradict this. Here is the web page: http://www.panasonic.net/avc/project...positions.html

Under the section "Projection distance for screen aspect ratio of 2.35:1
(When projecting both 2.35:1 and 16:9 images onto a 2.35:1 screen using the Lens Memory function.)"; there is a column titled "Height from the edge of screen to center of lens". This shows that for a 120" diagonal 2.35 screen, that the lens can be up to 3'11" above the screen and still use the Lens Memory Function.

Is this not accurate?

The way I interpret it is this: the projector can be ceiling-mounted (upside down) with the center of the lens anywhere between the top of the screen and the center of the screen (which in the case of a 120" 2.35:1 screen would be 3'11" from the top). Any lower than the center of the screen, and the projector would need to be mounted right-side-up, and the same limitations would apply in reverse (that is, it could be mounted with the center of the lens anywhere between the bottom of the screen and the center).

EDIT: Sorry...my math skills seem to have fled me momentarily. A 120" 2.35:1 screen is approximately 47" high, so 3'11" is actually the other edge of the screen. So it appears the projector can be mounted either right-side-up or upside-down with the center of the lens anywhere between the top or bottom of the screen.
post #2970 of 8336
Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly View Post

Well I have had my 4000 for a little over a week now and must say how Impressed I am with the zoom quality.


Here are a few shots of the picture zoomed to fit my 12' wide SmX 2.35 screen from my front row seats at about 12' away. Projector is mounted at about 19' back





[

Man what screen are you using? That looks amazing.
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