Panasonic PT-AE4000 MSRP $1999 - Page 105

Make sure that you connect a diode in parallel to protect your PJ against high voltage generated when a relay coil is switched off.
Thanks,
Wojtek

Are you using a 12 volt AC or DC relay? (The trigger voltage is DC.)

Well, it looks like it's a 5VDC relay w/ 89.3mA coil current. Maybe I need to get a 12VDC relay? I thought I looked for it at RadioShack and this was the closest one I could find, but it's worth another try.

I did test that the relay was 'working' by connecting another 12V 200mA wall wart to the relay coil. There were some 'static' noise (maybe there was too much current) but the fan did turn on. So either I have to get a 12VDC relay or I have to get a volt meter to make sure my 12V trigger is outputting voltage. I have the trigger 1 output set at 'power on'.

I do have a fuse between wall wart and the '30' COM lead so that there's no surge. Do I need another fuse between the trigger and the coil?

Yes, you should be using 12V trigger otherwise you can and will demage the coil. Also, try to get something with 50mA or less of current draw.
Wojtek

You need to protect the trigger, so yes you need protection there. The fuse will not help as it will blow in case of high current. In this case you need a diode which is connected in parallel to your relay (coil).
Thanks,
Wojtek
ie: http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/componen...ay.htm#protect

Make sure the TRIGGER setting is at OUTPUT. See page 40 of the FUNCTIONAL INSTRUCTIONS.

Teecue

You are attempting to draw more 200 Miliamperes with that 5 volt relay. It is a DC relay you need a diode ACROSS that coil. When the current flow is interrupted (The trigger turns off), you will get a massive voltage spike back into the AE4000! Think of a automotive spark coil, 6 volts in, 25,000 volts out-- and it will knock you on your can. Just think what it can do to that poor transistor (or IC) inside of the AE4000.

P.S. ---- I worked for Western Electric in testing of Telephone relays and all of our relays would generate a minimum of 1,500 volts of 'kickback' voltage when they opened. Anytime, these relays were in circuits that were operated by either transistors or IC's, they were protected by diodes. Hopefully, the AE4000 already has a protection diode inside of it, but I wouldn't want to depend on it....

yes, I set the output (top section) to Power On.

So I switched the relay to a 12V 1A 39mA one. I also bought a multimeter from Radioshack but it was dead (I put the 2 AAA batteries in ) and I didn't have time to get get another one; so I couldn't test whether the trigger was outputting any voltage. Long story short, w/ the new relay it still doesn't work. I'll grab a diode when I get a new multimeter tomorrow. Maybe this is not worth it....I should just use the switch to turn on/off the fan!

Have you tried connecting the fan directly to the trigger output , without the relay?

Teecue

With the MRSP of this thing being $1999 FOUR MONTHS ago..where are all the deals?

The MSRP was/is $2499.

$1999 is the minimum advertised price, and is the "deal" you're looking for. That, and they're not having any trouble selling them, so there's little reason to discount them further.

Ok I finally received my Carada BW screen for my 4000 on Saturday at 7PM via Fedx and it was fun putting it together. Here are some pics for the people who requested them.

no....I guess I can try that instead of buying a multimeter (it's not recommended for continuous use, per pg 41 of functional instructions manual:
equipment.)
...but I'll have to un-soder the fan from the relay; I have the other end of the 1/8" jack so I don't have to un-soder that piece. It's worth a try. I'll let u you in about 20min.

OK...it took longer than 20min due to some interruptions, but:
1) 4000U 12V trigger connected directly to the fan using 1/8" monaural jack did not work.
2) I also tried from my Denon 2808CI, which has 12V 150mA triggers and it didn't work. The 1/8" jack was hot when I pulled it out after being frustrated.

This makes me wonder if the problem is w/ the 1/8" monaural jacks I bought from RadioShack or if this 'project' is just not meant to happen!
I might have to just use my current setup w/o the trigger and use the wall wart for power and the switch to turn on/off the fan (I guess it's surge protected since I put in a fuse betweeen the wall wart line and the switch!).

looks great Nerver.... thanks for the pic's

i have a room with a 9 foot a-frame ceiling and all the mounts i seem to find are all meant for flat ceilings. Do you have any suggestions for mounts for the 4000 that would work on an a-frame ceiling?

Would the following 3 pieces make it work for you:
http://www.mountdirect.com/Projector...ries_p/npl.htm
http://www.mountdirect.com/Projector...sories_s/2.htm
http://www.mountdirect.com/NPL_Exten.../npl_ext_v.htm

You can call them and ask...

I decided not to waste any more time or money into this debacle...I'll just settle for the fan w/ a switch.

Here are some before and after pics (6x12" hole on the right side for panel and switch access and extra ventilation) of the box and the fan.
I put a mirror above the indicator lights so I can see them from the floor.

I found this while googling: http://www.htguide.com/forum/archive...4/t-13616.html
"I tried buying a 1/8 mono plug and spliced one end. The problem was the cable could not deliver the 12 volts. Maybe because the wire was too thin? So I used 16 gauge speaker wire and solder it to a 1/8 mini plug, and voila, it worked. Has anyone else experienced this issue?"

Maybe the 1/8 mono plug I got from RadioShack wasn't cutting it...but do I want to buy a 1/8" plug and connect some speaker wire to it and buy a diode to prevent the PJ from being fried? It seems like even if I succeed, there will be little reward and too much risk!!!

that is exactly what I was looking for! thanks

If you have a receiver withy a SWITCHED power outlet on the back, and you use it only for movie watching, you can connect the Walmart power supply to that. Now every time the receiver is turned on the fan comes on!!!!

Nice pictures.

Teecue

FYI, My AE4000 had 95 hours on it today. I started feeling as if it wasn't quite bright enough any more. I think it was earlier in this thread (or one like it) that I set out my calculations for the fL I was watching and talking about how I would jack the pj back up to normal/high bulb (from eco mode) when the bulb dimmed. Well, apparently that is at 95 hours. It's like knew again. And the viewing from my lateral seats which are perpendicular to each end of the screen have a good picture again too (High Power 2.8).

So, frankly, even I was a little shocked that these bulbs dim down so darned fast. I guess I might as well start shopping for a replacement/back up.

I had heard years ago that these UHP bulbs dim down to about 80% at around 100 hours, meaning they have an initial phase of dimming fast right at first. I think all my previous projectors were SO bright that I never noticed this initial drop so obviously. But in my current configuration, I apparently needed that 20%. The story use to go that after that initial dim down, it stayed relatively more stable for most of the remaining life of the bulb. I don't know whether that is real or total BS, but I'm going to find out. I have also heard that they lose 50% of their light by about 500 hours. Does anyone else actually have any data on the real rate of dimming? I'm tired of not knowing.

Can't frick'n wait for LED to be really real in terms of output.

Wow. Only 95 hours? what happen to bulbs lasting 2000 hours. Makes me want to get a HP screen now. I recommend a HP screen for those who like to watch the projector with the lights on a little bit. Other lower gain screen are best for lights off. I feel that this projector should be for movies exclusively and special cable HD content only.

Here are some pics I took today. Plus take into account that my camera sucks.

Lights on:


Lights off:





Lights on:

Light off:

Thank you.

yeah, I was doing that previously for Denon 2808, which has 2 outlets in the back as well as 2 12V triggers, but the Denon never got hot so I stopped using it.

I just ordered that mount today came out to $45.00.

I was going to go w/ 120" Diag white screen but it was sold out.
After contemplating a bit and doing some testing at home, decided to go with the 130" diag white screen instead of stepping down to 110".
http://www.htdepot.com/Focupix_Wides...69lt-133mw.htm

Congrats! These are very good screens with the prices they are sold at. I got both of mine from them. My experience with their customer services has also been excellent. Show us some pictures when you set it up. Thanks.

I spent 30min on it so far and I got the frame set up and the screens have the tension rods in them. The baby woke up so my wife won't help me put the screen on the frame! DOH!