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Panasonic PT-AE4000 MSRP $1999 - Page 174

post #5191 of 8336
6/5/10 at 11:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

Sounds like the black bar in the bluray is not encoded as tru black. Have you tried setting the electronic masking in the projector to cover the balck bars. This should make the projector show them as black as possible.

I'm not concerned about how black are the black bars, but rather by the black levels in the picture sent by my player to the projector. It seems like the black bars represent the darkest signal that can be produced by the player because the waveform monitor never reaches 0% on a full image with dark scenes. Knowing this, then I'm not using the full potential of the projector to create darker images. My player is connected to my projector through the HDMI port.

I've read in the manual on the supplied CD Rom that the black level 0% and white level 100% can be adjust automatically if I use a commercial test signal for picture adjustment. Does someone know where can I get a test signal? I would put it on a DVD and then play it in my Blu-ray player to make the adjustment.
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post #5192 of 8336
6/5/10 at 1:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bfrancoeur View Post

I'm not concerned about how black are the black bars, but rather by the black levels in the picture sent by my player to the projector. It seems like the black bars represent the darkest signal that can be produced by the player because the waveform monitor never reaches 0% on a full image with dark scenes. Knowing this, then I'm not using the full potential of the projector to create darker images. My player is connected to my projector through the HDMI port.

I've read in the manual on the supplied CD Rom that the black level 0% and white level 100% can be adjust automatically if I use a commercial test signal for picture adjustment. Does someone know where can I get a test signal? I would put it on a DVD and then play it in my Blu-ray player to make the adjustment.

As I recall, the black level on DVD and Blu-ray are not at '0' or are the white level at '100'. The reason for this is to allow for overshoot when analog signals are decoded from the digital signal. (If the black level was truly zero, you would have to limit the frequency response of the analog amplifier or it would 'ring' which would put terrible artifacts into the picture. Limiting the frequency response would result in a 'soft' picture.)

However, if you use a calibration disk, you can use the whole range of the projector by adjusting the contrast and brightness controls. This is a fairly simple adjustment once you have a calibration disk.

Having said that, many DVD and Blu-ray players will send a 'blacker than black' signal out on the digital signal and some willl even do it on the component signal. Whether, your player can do this depends on the decision of the designing engineers.

One other thing which I observed on a couple of Blu-ray disks is that the black letterbox bars did not seem to as black as the darkest part of the actual picture. While I didn't take the time to study it that closely, I suspect that there was a authoring error made as the disk was being mastered. (The reason I didn't pursue this was that I use a 2.35:1 and normally 'zoom' those bars off the screen.)

Hope this helps...
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post #5193 of 8336
6/5/10 at 2:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

Sounds like the black bar in the bluray is not encoded as tru black. Have you tried setting the electronic masking in the projector to cover the balck bars. This should make the projector show them as black as possible.

Electronic masking? What is that? Are you able to actually turn off the black bar projecting when viewing 2:35:1 material on a 16:9 screen?
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post #5194 of 8336
6/5/10 at 3:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

Electronic masking? What is that? Are you able to actually turn off the black bar projecting when viewing 2:35:1 material on a 16:9 screen?


See page 37 of the Functional Manual (on the CD).
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post #5195 of 8336
6/5/10 at 3:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by frank1940 View Post

As I recall, the black level on DVD and Blu-ray are not at '0' or are the white level at '100'. The reason for this is to allow for overshoot when analog signals are decoded from the digital signal. (If the black level was truly zero, you would have to limit the frequency response of the analog amplifier or it would 'ring' which would put terrible artifacts into the picture. Limiting the frequency response would result in a 'soft' picture.)

However, if you use a calibration disk, you can use the whole range of the projector by adjusting the contrast and brightness controls. This is a fairly simple adjustment once you have a calibration disk.

Having said that, many DVD and Blu-ray players will send a 'blacker than black' signal out on the digital signal and some willl even do it on the component signal. Whether, your player can do this depends on the decision of the designing engineers.

One other thing which I observed on a couple of Blu-ray disks is that the black letterbox bars did not seem to as black as the darkest part of the actual picture. While I didn't take the time to study it that closely, I suspect that there was a authoring error made as the disk was being mastered. (The reason I didn't pursue this was that I use a 2.35:1 and normally 'zoom' those bars off the screen.)

Hope this helps...

I'm not an expert on this, but I see two dashed lines on the waveform monitor that are located over and under the 0% and 100% lines on the graph. This must be a gap to allow the overshoots you are talking about. Also, there is a figure on page 21 of the user manual on the CD that shows an example of a test signal going outside the 0-100% scale.

However, I also have a HTPC computer which comprises a blu-ray drive and a blu-ray player software. Today, I plugged my HTPC to my projector and played the Star Trek movie. As for my player, the black bars produced by my HTPC were also brighter that the menu black background. Then, I went on the web and found a freeware called «*Calman Pattern Generator*». This software can generate gray-scale vertical steps. I loaded the software and sent the pattern picture to my projector. On the waveform monitor, the steps were inside the 0-100% scale. As written in the user manual, I started the black 0% and white 100% level auto-adjustment. The projector started to adjust the gains, I think, until the first step and last step were put over the 0% and 100% lines. Then, I played Star Trek again, and my black bars became as dark as my menu black background. And, WOW! Now, I see a net improvement on my black levels for the movie. The scenes in space are remarkable! I'm starting to love this projector.

But, this has not affected my blu-ray player which still behaves the same. Therefore, I'm sure I need to do the same with a pattern generator located on a DVD. I'm still searching the web to find one to download and burn on a DVD. If someone knows were to find one, please tell me.

Thanks for your help.
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post #5196 of 8336
6/5/10 at 4:44pm
Well I had to take my 8500ub back as I saw sde with it. My understanding Is this is not a problem for the panasonic so I'm going to be purchasing one. Are there any issues besides dust blobs that I should worry about? Is it a solid/reliable unit? Convergence issues? I wasn't keeping up with the ae4000 as I was set on getting the 8500ub. Thanks in advance for any help.
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post #5197 of 8336
6/5/10 at 7:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bfrancoeur View Post

I

But, this has not affected my blu-ray player which still behaves the same. Therefore, I'm sure I need to do the same with a pattern generator located on a DVD. I'm still searching the web to find one to download and burn on a DVD. If someone knows were to find one, please tell me.

Thanks for your help.

For a free calibration disk, try here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496
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post #5198 of 8336
6/5/10 at 9:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

Yours shuts down within 10 seconds? Seriously? My power light goes yellow, and it takes over a minute - I'd guess - to shut down. Maybe longer. The bulb shuts off immediately, but I can hear the fan whirring etc for quite a bit of time.

why hasn't anyone corrected this fella? anyway, be glad it takes over a minute. do you not realize what the panny 4k is doing? it shuts the bulb down first. then where exactly does all the heat go to? does it disappear, evanescent, mysteriously and magically after the bulb is shut down? dude, the fan is displacing the heat so components don't remain heat-soaked. cooler components = longer life. be ecstatic over the fact the fan stays on "after the fact".

i'm not COMPLETELY labelling your posts as trolling, but you are knocking this product down in an unamicable manner. in just a few days you may be dissuading potential purchases of this projector. do a fair shootout if you wish, but your words seem to be edging on borderline angst. let it go and go enjoy your epson.

also, it seems that you're disgruntled. sure, we've all been pissed over a brand new purchase that did not live up to expectations. deal with it and move on. no need to defame a product, nor a company. i got my panny 4k from projector people as well. i was a rookie to the projector game. I PERSONALLY made certain i did not exceed the 4 hour return limit on the projector. it was my responsibility. i wouldn't expect a handout. seriously, how many people do you think probably ask the same of projector people, possibly on a daily basis?

i equate going over the 4 hour limit to my girlfriend fighting a red light camera in court when the proof is in the video. she did a "california stop", something we ALL do on a daily basis. she trusted that the "gray" area's in the law may work in her favor, but such was not the case. you were expecting special treatment for your mistake and then when you didn't get it, you defame the company you purchased from. i say this in the making in your earlier posts and then after a few days it came out full-fledged. no matter a few posts back you "let them off the hook" or what not, potential customers may and WILL be turned off by your "accusations". tread carefully.
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post #5199 of 8336
6/5/10 at 9:43pm
Anyone running a 136" 2.35:1 screen with this yet? How's the brightness with throwing on bigger screens? What gains, distance, etc.. are you using.

Thanks
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post #5200 of 8336
6/5/10 at 11:46pm
to put it simply, i'm using a 2.35:1 screen at approximately 137" diagonal. without getting into specifics, it's PLENTY bright zoomed out that far. i'm throwing from just under 14' with max zoom. not sure how many lamberts. but it's bright. it's bright enough in all modes, but i want that POP so i run in "normal" mode. colors seem very realistic to me.

136" 2.35:1 = DO IT! i researched high and low before i went with the panny 4k and my DIY 137" wilsonart designer white screen at ~1.3 gain (according to many past reviewers of the wilsonart laminate).
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post #5201 of 8336
6/6/10 at 6:27am
Any opinions on how this screen would work with the 4k?

http://www.elunevision.com/ca/cart.php?page=elaravcg

It looks very good because its gray to provide better contrast and deeper blacks and has a high gain too. If not they also have a 1.1 gain HC Gray then that I'll go with.
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post #5202 of 8336
6/6/10 at 7:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by frank1940 View Post

For a free calibration disk, try here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

Many thanks Frank1940!

Just finished the adjustments of my black levels on my BD player. Great improvements were obtained for dark scenes. I will continue to play with my Panny and try further fine tunings ...
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post #5203 of 8336
6/6/10 at 12:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by frank1940 View Post

See page 37 of the Functional Manual (on the CD).

Thank you. I will look into this when my Panny comes back from repair.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bizill View Post

why hasn't anyone corrected this fella? anyway, be glad it takes over a minute. do you not realize what the panny 4k is doing? it shuts the bulb down first. then where exactly does all the heat go to? does it disappear, evanescent, mysteriously and magically after the bulb is shut down? dude, the fan is displacing the heat so components don't remain heat-soaked. cooler components = longer life. be ecstatic over the fact the fan stays on "after the fact".

i'm not COMPLETELY labelling your posts as trolling, but you are knocking this product down in an unamicable manner. in just a few days you may be dissuading potential purchases of this projector. do a fair shootout if you wish, but your words seem to be edging on borderline angst. let it go and go enjoy your epson.

also, it seems that you're disgruntled. sure, we've all been pissed over a brand new purchase that did not live up to expectations. deal with it and move on. no need to defame a product, nor a company. i got my panny 4k from projector people as well. i was a rookie to the projector game. I PERSONALLY made certain i did not exceed the 4 hour return limit on the projector. it was my responsibility. i wouldn't expect a handout. seriously, how many people do you think probably ask the same of projector people, possibly on a daily basis?

i equate going over the 4 hour limit to my girlfriend fighting a red light camera in court when the proof is in the video. she did a "california stop", something we ALL do on a daily basis. she trusted that the "gray" area's in the law may work in her favor, but such was not the case. you were expecting special treatment for your mistake and then when you didn't get it, you defame the company you purchased from. i say this in the making in your earlier posts and then after a few days it came out full-fledged. no matter a few posts back you "let them off the hook" or what not, potential customers may and WILL be turned off by your "accusations". tread carefully.

Your post is uncalled for. The Epson 8500UB shuts down within around 10 seconds of hitting the power button. Does that mean the Epson is "doing it wrong," despite having a warranty twice the length of the Panasonic PT-AE4000U?

And second, I'm not defaming any product or any company. I'm not having a flawless experience with my Epson, either, if you bothered to read. Am I now defaming the Epson? I posted MY experiences with the Panasonic, the Epson, and the company I purchased the Panasonic from. If you don't like it, well... I can't help you. But maybe you should read carefully over my posts. If you did, you'd understand. I didn't call out projectorpeople.com with no good reason. I maintain their staff need to be better trained so that they can give the customer the correct answer the first time and not "lead them to believe" other things...

I've been a member on these boards for years, have contributed thousands of hours of effort to many threads, and am not out to defame anyone. And please don't make faulty analogies.

-----

Now, moving on. I'm quite interested to see how my Panasonic comes back. The Epson is bugging me a little after having spent some more time with it. While it's not "super noisy" or anything, it does have that certain high pitch that grates, the pixel grid on my screen is more prevalent, and because I've now been spoiled by the excellent input lag on the Panny, the Epson, while VERY good, just isn't as good, and I know it. If I hadn't had the Panasonic set up, I'd likely be very happy with the Epson's gaming prowess, but..... that's not the case.
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post #5204 of 8336
6/6/10 at 1:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by frank1940 View Post

See page 37 of the Functional Manual (on the CD).

So thats where the functional options were hiding. I just assumed it was a copy of the hard manaual and threw the cd in storage with the manual since i downloaded the latest version from the website. For some reson, I didnt see anything on the website of the functional manual at that time.
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post #5205 of 8336
6/7/10 at 5:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bfrancoeur View Post

I'm not an expert on this, but I see two dashed lines on the waveform monitor that are located over and under the 0% and 100% lines on the graph. This must be a gap to allow the overshoots you are talking about. Also, there is a figure on page 21 of the user manual on the CD that shows an example of a test signal going outside the 0-100% scale.

However, I also have a HTPC computer which comprises a blu-ray drive and a blu-ray player software. Today, I plugged my HTPC to my projector and played the Star Trek movie. As for my player, the black bars produced by my HTPC were also brighter that the menu black background. Then, I went on the web and found a freeware called «*Calman Pattern Generator*». This software can generate gray-scale vertical steps. I loaded the software and sent the pattern picture to my projector. On the waveform monitor, the steps were inside the 0-100% scale. As written in the user manual, I started the black 0% and white 100% level auto-adjustment. The projector started to adjust the gains, I think, until the first step and last step were put over the 0% and 100% lines. Then, I played Star Trek again, and my black bars became as dark as my menu black background. And, WOW! Now, I see a net improvement on my black levels for the movie. The scenes in space are remarkable! I'm starting to love this projector.

But, this has not affected my blu-ray player which still behaves the same. Therefore, I'm sure I need to do the same with a pattern generator located on a DVD. I'm still searching the web to find one to download and burn on a DVD. If someone knows were to find one, please tell me.

Thanks for your help.

I did this as well. Ill take pics later tonight if anyone wants to see..

I had been using the calibrations from http://www.projectorreviews.com/pana...alibration.php

as the basis for my settings. Last night I decided to try the wavelength generator "auto setup" to see if i could get better blacks out of the unit.

I loaded up the config for the color1 settings and then I opened calmans pattern generator and set it to display greyscale vertical. I did the auto setup and it ended up adjusting out and it looks like it adjusted the contrast and brightness. it moved it to some very different settings compared to the settings listed in the review.

bottom line is the blacks are MUCH MUCH blacker. colors are deeper and more saturated. overall it looks alot more like a lcd or plasma in the color department than it did before (which i dont know if i like yet) but the blacks are so much darker. i wonder if the 8500 can do better than this..
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post #5206 of 8336
6/7/10 at 7:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnzm View Post

I did this as well. Ill take pics later tonight if anyone wants to see..

I had been using the calibrations from http://www.projectorreviews.com/pana...alibration.php

as the basis for my settings. Last night I decided to try the wavelength generator "auto setup" to see if i could get better blacks out of the unit.

I loaded up the config for the color1 settings and then I opened calmans pattern generator and set it to display greyscale vertical. I did the auto setup and it ended up adjusting out and it looks like it adjusted the contrast and brightness. it moved it to some very different settings compared to the settings listed in the review.

bottom line is the blacks are MUCH MUCH blacker. colors are deeper and more saturated. overall it looks alot more like a lcd or plasma in the color department than it did before (which i dont know if i like yet) but the blacks are so much darker. i wonder if the 8500 can do better than this..

Cant really use the waveform generator to calibrate your PJ. It cannot compensate for things like ambient light, the screen itself(gain, material type etc),throw,zoom etc. Using it for me shows that it crushes blacks, oversaturates whites and skews the greyscale. Get yourself a decent Blu ray calibration dics like Spears and Munsil to get closer to the full potential of your PJ.
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post #5207 of 8336
6/7/10 at 7:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wikel View Post

Anyone running a 136" 2.35:1 screen with this yet? How's the brightness with throwing on bigger screens? What gains, distance, etc.. are you using.

Thanks

I have a 136" 2.35 Carada BW (1.4 gain) screen. My throw is just over 14'. I run it on ECO and Cinema1. Plenty bright in a bat cave. I sit right at 14' as well and it is awasome!
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post #5208 of 8336
6/7/10 at 8:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntrain6943 View Post

Cant really use the waveform generator to calibrate your PJ. It cannot compensate for things like ambient light, the screen itself(gain, material type etc),throw,zoom etc. Using it for me shows that it crushes blacks, oversaturates whites and skews the greyscale. Get yourself a decent Blu ray calibration dics like Spears and Munsil to get closer to the full potential of your PJ.


just curious, but are you comparing your calibration by the spears disc against an auto calibration by waveform generator?
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post #5209 of 8336
6/7/10 at 8:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bizill View Post

why hasn't anyone corrected this fella? anyway, be glad it takes over a minute. do you not realize what the panny 4k is doing? it shuts the bulb down first. then where exactly does all the heat go to? does it disappear, evanescent, mysteriously and magically after the bulb is shut down? dude, the fan is displacing the heat so components don't remain heat-soaked. cooler components = longer life. be ecstatic over the fact the fan stays on "after the fact".

i was thinking the exact same thing, after reading what was meant about "not shutting down immediately". i've owned three different projectors personally, and have worked with two or three others at work. all different models, and every single one of them ran the fan for a period of time after turning off the projector. unless the epson has out of this world phenomenal heat dissipation, or some other kind of trick up it's sleeve, i wouldn't necessarily call not running the fan "wrong", but i'd certainly call it "sub-optimal".
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post #5210 of 8336
6/7/10 at 8:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wnl View Post

I need a ceiling mount that can put the top of my projector 20" to 23" from the ceiling. This will put my lens below the top of the screen. My current mount isn't long enough. Anyone have leads on good ceiling mounts of this length? I think the pole would have to be around 15" or so.

Thanks.

Bill

sounds like this one might work: monoprice mount. it's what my ae4k is currently hanging from, albeit without the extension arm, and i found it to be a well built, easily adjustable mount.
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post #5211 of 8336
6/7/10 at 8:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by absolootbs View Post

i was thinking the exact same thing, after reading what was meant about "not shutting down immediately". i've owned three different projectors personally, and have worked with two or three others at work. all different models, and every single one of them ran the fan for a period of time after turning off the projector. unless the epson has out of this world phenomenal heat dissipation, or some other kind of trick up it's sleeve, i wouldn't necessarily call not running the fan "wrong", but i'd certainly call it "sub-optimal".

....despite it having a much longer warranty? I suppose my 2010 STI is sub-optimal, and my iMacs, and every computer ever made.

Heck, I'd like to see some proof that projectors with fans that run a while after being shut off last longer than those that don't...
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post #5212 of 8336
6/7/10 at 9:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnzm View Post

just curious, but are you comparing your calibration by the spears disc against an auto calibration by waveform generator?

Ive compared it to a number of calibration discs(S&M,DVE, some downloaded display test patterns along with some other software). All the regular calbiration material was very close to one another, the WF gene3rator though was consistently off crushing blacks and clipping whites considerably. The only time I find the WF generator to be of decent use is to use it for cable/satallite sources on TV. Its much better then and only off a few clicks at most. But using it with a greyscale test pattern through a DVD or bluray player has been to me pretty much worthless.
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post #5213 of 8336
6/7/10 at 9:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

....despite it having a much longer warranty? I suppose my 2010 STI is sub-optimal, and my iMacs, and every computer ever made.

Heck, I'd like to see some proof that projectors with fans that run a while after being shut off last longer than those that don't...

well, your iMacs are "sub-optimal" for a lot of reasons . but yes, thats one of the exact reasons that i've always recommended people leave their computers running all the time, rather than starting them up when they need them, and shutting them down when they're finished (fwiw, IT is my profession). while running, it may be generating some heat, but it also has fans running to control that heat. when you shut it down, all that heat that was built up before shutting it down is still there, but you no longer have fans running to get rid of it.

with the STI, we're talking about mechanical parts as opposed to electrical, so it's a bit of a different situation. nice car though, BTW. i have an '02 WRX as my grocery getter/bad weather car.

what i don't understand is "why not?" even if there's no data to show running the fan after shut down is guaranteed to increase the life of the projector, it certainly can't hurt. until there's a drawback (and there aren't any that i can see), i'd say "with" is better than "without" any day.
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post #5214 of 8336
6/7/10 at 9:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

....despite it having a much longer warranty? I suppose my 2010 STI is sub-optimal, and my iMacs, and every computer ever made.

Heck, I'd like to see some proof that projectors with fans that run a while after being shut off last longer than those that don't...

How long a warrenty is to me beyond a year or 2(Panasonic's is technically 2 years right now)really not a big deal, especially on what is essentially a low cost/high performance PJ.

Since you brought up the STI(WRX I assume), taking into account vehicle mfg's, would you rather have a KIA with a 5/60k(10/100k dt)warranty, or a comparable Honda product with a 3/36k(5/60k)warranty instead? The Honda is by far and large built significantly better than the KIA even though its warranty is half as long. So the point is judging a product on how well its built by the warranty is kind of silly. Even though Epson has a great warranty, I personally have never been impressed with their build quality. My local AV store was trying to push me to picking up an 8500/9500UB, but after seeing them side by side(with the 3rd party ISF calibrator there as he just calibrated them and was doing his rounds to a few AV stores locally)with a 4000 and talking with the calibrator outside afterwards on the 2 different brands(he strongly prefers the Panny for its PQ potential/calibration and build quality overall)my decision to go with the 4000 was made. And it has performed to my expectations so far.
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post #5215 of 8336
6/7/10 at 9:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG;18741889I View Post

suppose my 2010 STI is sub-optimal..

Ah well yea, it needs atleast 4 more cylinders to have a real engine, and thats just for starters......
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post #5216 of 8336
6/7/10 at 10:15am
lol, you guys. I love my STI. I actually owned a 2003 WRX, too, and traded it in on the STI.

Look, in any case, ALL I'm trying to say is that I'm not a fanboy of any particular brand, and actually I'm quite excited to get my Panasonic back if they can fix it to my satisfaction.

And yes, the Epson's build quality isn't in the same league as the Panasonic's. No argument there!
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post #5217 of 8336
6/7/10 at 3:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

lol, you guys. I love my STI. I actually owned a 2003 WRX, too, and traded it in on the STI.

Look, in any case, ALL I'm trying to say is that I'm not a fanboy of any particular brand, and actually I'm quite excited to get my Panasonic back if they can fix it to my satisfaction.

And yes, the Epson's build quality isn't in the same league as the Panasonic's. No argument there!

My Panny fan does the same thing. No worries.
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post #5218 of 8336
6/7/10 at 4:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bizill View Post

why hasn't anyone corrected this fella? anyway, be glad it takes over a minute. do you not realize what the panny 4k is doing? it shuts the bulb down first. then where exactly does all the heat go to? does it disappear, evanescent, mysteriously and magically after the bulb is shut down? dude, the fan is displacing the heat so components don't remain heat-soaked. cooler components = longer life. be ecstatic over the fact the fan stays on "after the fact"..



Good post

Yes this is common sense and surprised people don't understand this. It's a good thing the fan stays on a minute after the PJ being shut down
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post #5219 of 8336
6/7/10 at 5:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sotwell View Post

I have a 136" 2.35 Carada BW (1.4 gain) screen. My throw is just over 14'. I run it on ECO and Cinema1. Plenty bright in a bat cave. I sit right at 14' as well and it is awasome!

Haha, sounds like the exact setup (even the same distances) that I'm considering. Glad to hear it works well! I was wondering a bit about the brightness.
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post #5220 of 8336
6/7/10 at 8:09pm
Just installed a 138" wide 2.35 screen for a friend. This thing is a beauty. Dont worry about the brightness- didnt check during the day but it was pretty bright in the night

Now if only I could get it to focus properly in all parts of the screen. Will try the 2step process next weekend. Any other tips?
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