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Panasonic PT-AE4000 MSRP $1999 - Page 187

post #5581 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by dominickwok View Post


Colorimeter: Spyder3TV - costs around only HK$850 (~ US$110). In terms of quality, it depends very much on your luck. It's not unusual to purchase a unit that is inaccurate; but I'm lucky, my unit seems to be ok for amateur use as the measured results (e.g. color gamut, etc.) do not deviate too much as reported by professional reviewers. I know Eye-One is much better - but it is also more expensive, and is not available in the stores in Hong Kong.

Software: ColorHCFR (freeware - good enough for precise calibration)

You can download it from:
http://www.homecinema-fr.com/colorimetre/index_en.php

This is a good article for you to study on how to do the calibration:
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

Good Luck!!!

Thank you! I will check it out.
post #5582 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by WannaTheater View Post

Hi all,

I am considering an AE4000 for a 130"ish 2.35:1 wide screen, but when performing the "throw distance calculations" got the following:

As can be seen, this indicates that I need either a smaller screen (like under 100"), or a screen with a higher gain to get into the green.

Is this a concern, or are many of you using large screens without issue?

My room will be fully light controlled.

Thanks!

Can you get closer? For that size screen get as close as possible. I'm 14.5 ft back from a 136" scope screen and it looks great.
post #5583 of 8492
Ever since I purchased my projector I have noticed that when I change the source it takes a long time to "lock in" on the input. I notice it the most when I try to use my xbox that is connected via component to my Denon 3808CI and is sent out via component to the projector. The screen shows it is on the correct input but it will flash blue and then go to black. Does this several times for about 30 seconds or so before finally displaying the xbox dashboard. Has anyone else had this problem before? Starting to wonder if it is my receiver that is causing the problems.
post #5584 of 8492
probably the receiver. try direct input.


On another note:

I am about to buy one of these bad boys, but had a question...

I want my throw distance to be as short as possible without affecting picture. I plan on doing a 110-120" screen (haven't decided completely yet).


What am I looking at? I see the calculators online but moving the throw up/down affects the zoom level and I don't understand how that will affect my picture (if at all).


I want a minimal throw so I have room to stand closer to it for xbox 360 motion control and wii motion control
post #5585 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by pgjensen View Post

probably the receiver. try direct input.


On another note:

I am about to buy one of these bad boys, but had a question...

I want my throw distance to be as short as possible without affecting picture. I plan on doing a 110-120" screen (haven't decided completely yet).


What am I looking at? I see the calculators online but moving the throw up/down affects the zoom level and I don't understand how that will affect my picture (if at all).

There is a link to the AE4000 manuals in the first post. In the first few pages of either manual is both a table (for some common screen sizes) and formulas to calculate the min and max distance exactly for the size screen that you decide to use. (The table is more detailed in the function manual.)

The only thing I would suggest is that you don't mount the projector EXACTLY at either the min or max. Give yourself a bit of 'wiggle' room to assure that you can focus it precisely.
post #5586 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by frank1940 View Post

First, be sure that your projector is level and square to the screen. (It probably is or you would have keystoning.) Be sure that the screen is vertical.

Second, bring up the focus image and focus the square rectangles (with the vertical and horizontal lines) in center. you might want to get within a couple of feet of the screen to do this. Concentrate on focusing that image. By the way, you do the fine focus by 'bumping' the focus controls. Don't hold them down! There will be a range of bumps were the focus the both horizontal and vertical lines are in focus. Bump the focus control to the middle of that range. You now have have set the projector for the center of the image and the top and bottom should be about the same.

By the way, most people have the projector located within a few inches below to a few inches above the top of the screen. Your mounting point is actually pretty normal. Be a bit careful about attempting to focus white lines on black backgrounds. I have noticed a tendency for them to appear to 'bloom' a bit.

Yeah, I took a good bit of time to make sure the projector was level & square and as a result, the image is the same.

I probably should have been more clear on my 2-step description of focusing, but I did do the bumping on the remote to get it in focus. I had some more time to spend with it last night and I played around with the Sharpness adjustment under the Picture menu and did see an improvement; however the level of crispness between the top of the screen down to the bottom of the screen is still same and noticeable.

I didn't think my set-up was too far out of what most people that use a ceiling mount have; I just can't think of another reason other than the vertical shift that could be causing what I am experiencing.
I guess the next step would be to take it down and set it up on a table top and let it project the image without using the vertical shift to see if there is an improvement.
post #5587 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by FSOL1 View Post

Hi,my friends.First of all,sorry for my language.Yesterday i has bought Panny 4000.Picture is very impressive,expectations have justified,but there is bad thing has appear.At work in a mode normal a projector selfshutdown in 5-10 minutes of work, and not from for an overheat as the temperature indicator does not light up and at self-switching-off fans too are cut down also. In a econom mode the anything similar does not occur, the projector works without problems.
That it for a glitch, help me please.

I suspect the bulb is not seated well, follow the manual's instructions to remove and then reinstall the bulb to reseat it. Then try normal mode again.
post #5588 of 8492
Just wanted to update on our 4000 experienec. Got to really site down and watch our first movie last night that was a 16:9 film, not a great quality movie by any means to judge picture. But my 16:9 screen is 115" diagonal, running on color 1 I found that I had to turn the bulb down to Eco because it was just a bit bright. Actually wasn't a huge difference from Normal to Eco I didn't think. Projector is at 19' and the screen is a Seymor XD.

Our first row is 12' from the screen and I think that is about the biggest 16:9 image I would want from that distance, but it might just take some getting use to. Motion seamed a little blury at time but again I think this might be the movie.

Be intersting when we try a 2.35 film, that will be 144" diagonal, think I might have to move to the second row

Going to watch Avatar tonight but I see that is only 16:9, don't understant that.
post #5589 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post


Going to watch Avatar tonight but I see that is only 16:9, don't understant that.

It's because James Cameron and the studio got in bed with the 3D TV manufacturers (Panasonic, Samsung, LG, etc), at CES 2010, every single TV was playing some type of Avatar trailer. Hence the 16:9... but that's just my opinion.
post #5590 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by ixion View Post

It's because James Cameron and the studio got in bed with the 3D TV manufacturers (Panasonic, Samsung, LG, etc), at CES 2010, every single TV was playing some type of Avatar trailer. Hence the 16:9... but that's just my opinion.

Then there is the money making / marketing reasons for not releasing it the proper version the first time. They will probably put out several versions over time. Most likely a 2:35 version. Then a "Special Edition" directors cut, in 16:9, and then later, that SE version in 2:35.
post #5591 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by ixion View Post

It's because James Cameron and the studio got in bed with the 3D TV manufacturers (Panasonic, Samsung, LG, etc), at CES 2010, every single TV was playing some type of Avatar trailer. Hence the 16:9... but that's just my opinion.

Maybe, but you have to admit it was James Cameron and Avatar who did 3D right. Instead of having gimmicky arrows coming at you, or a ball being thrown at you, his technology actually used it to immerse you into the film.

But that is a discussion for another forum...
post #5592 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by ixion View Post

It's because James Cameron and the studio got in bed with the 3D TV manufacturers (Panasonic, Samsung, LG, etc), at CES 2010, every single TV was playing some type of Avatar trailer. Hence the 16:9... but that's just my opinion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSensFan View Post

But that is a discussion for another forum...

No that's not the reason. And yes this is a discussion for another forum. In fact it's a discussion that has taken place ad nauseum on other forums. Please let's not start it here too!
post #5593 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

... Got to really site down and watch our first movie last night that was a 16:9 film, not a great quality movie by any means to judge picture. But my 16:9 screen is 115" diagonal, running on color 1 I found that I had to turn the bulb down to Eco because it was just a bit bright. Actually wasn't a huge difference from Normal to Eco I didn't think. ...

Hi, Mopar_Mudder:

What is the 16:9 movie you were watching? Maybe we can share our experience with its picture quality.

How many hours do you have on the bulb? At the beginning, eco mode felt bright enough, and then it dimmed pretty quick, at least in my experience.

Great looking dedicated theater.
post #5594 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmbxkb View Post

Hi, Mopar_Mudder:

What is the 16:9 movie you were watching? Maybe we can share our experience with its picture quality.

How many hours do you have on the bulb? At the beginning, eco mode felt bright enough, and then it dimmed pretty quick, at least in my experience.

Great looking dedicated theater.

It was OLD Dogs, I will have to check the hours on the bulb but I am guessing somewhere in the 15-20 range. I am not so sure on the hour meter, it seems to jump up faster then actual time for some reason. I figured by running eco now it give me the chance to jump back to normal when it dims out some.
post #5595 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmbxkb View Post

Great looking dedicated theater.

+1. Great looking room, Mopar.
post #5596 of 8492
Sorry, never seen Old Dogs myself. If it's blu-ray: Judging from blu-ray.com reviews (pro and users), it's video should be pretty solid.

That's exactly what I did: Eco mode the first few hundred hours, then switched to normal. It worked out fine.
post #5597 of 8492
Watched Avatar last night, all I can say is WOW. Great picture from this thing, I'm a happy camper. Oh and the sound in the new theater is great too.

Might try and get 2012 in tonight, we have a lot of movies to catch up on.
post #5598 of 8492
Thinking of upgrading from the PT AE900U. Does anyone know if the mounting holes are in the same position or will I have to build a new mount?
post #5599 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by slateef View Post

Thinking of upgrading from the PT AE900U. Does anyone know if the mounting holes are in the same position or will I have to build a new mount?

I think it's different. The PDF version of the CAD file gives the exact positions:
https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/pro...ae4000cad.html
post #5600 of 8492
Anyone care to comment on the black levels and brightness when compared to the 900 (or a similarly bright projector). I've been using the 900, and am overall pleased with it except for the gray levels. I've searched the thread and most comparisons to the 900 are given by people who had just recently got the 4000, so I was curious if it is still seen as a major step up. Thanks.
post #5601 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by sb1 View Post

Anyone care to comment on the black levels and brightness when compared to the 900 (or a similarly bright projector). I've been using the 900, and am overall pleased with it except for the gray levels. I've searched the thread and most comparisons to the 900 are given by people who had just recently got the 4000, so I was curious if it is still seen as a major step up. Thanks.

I've never seen the 900 in person, but everything I've read says there's no comparison. The 4000 is brighter, with far better contrast. Here's a thread on the subject:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1256277

In my opinion, the frame creation feature alone is worth the upgrade. It eliminates the distracting judder you get with 24 fps sources. Occasionally I turn it off to remind myself how much frame creation improves the viewing experience.

Having said all that, we are only three months away from the expected AE5000 introduction. If you've made it this far with the 900, you might want to see what the 5000 looks like first.
post #5602 of 8492
Thanks, Bob. Very helpful.
post #5603 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Whitefield View Post

Having said all that, we are only three months away from the expected AE5000 introduction. If you've made it this far with the 900, you might want to see what the 5000 looks like first.

Bob, are just going by history on that statement or was there an announcement?
post #5604 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by ejhuzy View Post

Bob, are just going by history on that statement or was there an announcement?

Just going by history, Ed. Panasonic usually announces their new AE projector in early October, becomes available later in the month. I don't have any inside knowledge.
post #5605 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Whitefield View Post

Just going by history, Ed. Panasonic usually announces their new AE projector in early October, becomes available later in the month. I don't have any inside knowledge.

Thanks Bob. I have a AX100 that's great , but I've been itching to get on the 1080p wagon.
post #5606 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by ejhuzy View Post

Thanks Bob. I have a AX100 that's great , but I've been itching to get on the 1080p wagon.

Ed, that's a fantastic theater you built, just beautiful. You really should crown it with a new projector. Besides increased resolution, an AE4000 will give you much better blacks, frame creation to get rid of judder, and the zoom feature means you could sell your lens along with the AX100.

Although you might wait to see what the AE5000 has to offer.
post #5607 of 8492
I just set up the AE4000 and everything looks great! I'm hoping someone can help me with setting up the 12V trigger from this unit to my Da-Lite Cosmopolitan Electrol screen. I was told to run a 2-conductor cable between the projector and the motorized housing of my screen. What plug/connector do I need for the AE4000? Secondly, how do I fasten the 2-conductor cable to this plug/connector? I hope you're not going to say solder! Crimping?

Thanks for your help!
post #5608 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by lpw View Post

I just set up the AE4000 and everything looks great! I'm hoping someone can help me with setting up the 12V trigger from this unit to my Da-Lite Cosmopolitan Electrol screen. I was told to run a 2-conductor cable between the projector and the motorized housing of my screen. What plug/connector do I need for the AE4000? Secondly, how do I fasten the 2-conductor cable to this plug/connector? I hope you're not going to say solder! Crimping?

Thanks for your help!

I believe you need a mini jack (mono) - something like this... http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103989
I think this one lets you connect w/o soldering....
post #5609 of 8492
Any recommendations on ceiling mounts for this projector? (Preferably black)

I saw the Peerless PRG-UNV was recommended a few pages back but curious if others had different opinions.
Also, ran across this Everest mount on another site.

Will most mounts work for it or do you have to have a particular type?

Do some mounts allow the projector to hang lower than others or do you just buy a pole for the mount (similar to a ceiling fan downrod?) I've heard you want the projector lined up with the top of the screen so wasn't sure how important that feature is. (Ie how far above the top of the screen can I mount the projector without altering the image?)

ETA: I'm considering installing the AVR equipment in the front of my media room (space issues in the back). The only thing I'm worried about is the distance I'll have to run HDMI cable. It's looking like a 30-35' cable would be needed. Any recommendations there? I've heard some HDMI cables have trouble with 1080p at that distance.

ETA: Ok, I think I've gone thru the 200 pages or so of this thread and have seen the following mounts recommended:
Monoprices #5466
Premier PBL-UMS
Chief RPAU (others that would work, RSAU, RSMAU, RSMBU, RSMCU, RSMDU.....need to research further the differences in those)
Peerless PRG-UNV
Visual Apex AV-817U
PMS Series
NPL Series
post #5610 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by lpw View Post

I just set up the AE4000 and everything looks great! I'm hoping someone can help me with setting up the 12V trigger from this unit to my Da-Lite Cosmopolitan Electrol screen. I was told to run a 2-conductor cable between the projector and the motorized housing of my screen. What plug/connector do I need for the AE4000? Secondly, how do I fasten the 2-conductor cable to this plug/connector? I hope you're not going to say solder! Crimping?

Thanks for your help!

On the projector side, all you need is this:
  1. 3.5mm Stereo Plug like this: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?p_id=644
  2. CAT5e cable - bulk, cut to your length and run it to the screen

On the screen side, it depends whether your screen uses RJ-45 input for the 12v trigger? Looking at the Da-Lite documentation, it looks like it's RJ-22 or RJ-45, and the black wire is +12V and the blue wire is Ground in either case:

http://www.da-lite.com/products/install_pdfs/38.pdf

I simply crimped a RJ-45 Plug onto the CAT5e cable, making sure to respect my screens manufacturer's wiring diagram (making sure the pair of +12V and Ground are on the proper pins).

Just run these two wires (+12V and Ground) to your projector using the CAT5e cable. Cut the mini-stereo plug wire, you will see three wires, one is the tip, the other two wires are the rings. I strongly suggest you test it at this point because the wire manufacturers are inconsistent in their color schemes. You can use a voltmeter or, if you don't have one, just plug the stereo plug into your projector (make sure you enabled 12V trigger in the menu), and manually try the wires in pairs until your screen goes down. Just twist and tape with electrical tape. Soldering is better, but not necessary.

If you're using an RJ-45 wall jack, here's some useful info on wiring, so you can figure out which pair to use:
http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/ethernetcables.html
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