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Panasonic PT-AE4000 MSRP $1999 - Page 270

post #8071 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by TVAddikt View Post

I did have 16:9 and 2:35:1 set and everything seemed fine but then I played a movie that is suppose to be 1:85:1 (Avatar and Bad Teacher) and I don't see anything different between the 16:9 to the 1:85:1.

Avatar actually is 16:9 (also known as 1.78:1), which would explain why you aren't seeing any difference! Bad Teacher should be 1.85:1 but not all manufacturers are honest about the aspect ratio of their discs. But most any DVD menu should utilize the entire screen. Just find a disc with a menu that has a bright background and use that to adjust for 1.78:1. Or use Avatar. Or find a test disc.

Here are a few movies from my collection that claim to be 1.85:1: A Beautiful Mind, Back to the Future (1, 2, or 3), Howl's Moving Castle, Night at the Museum, The Terminator. DVDs of any modern TV show will be 1.78:1 (16:9).

Quote:
Originally Posted by TVAddikt View Post

When watching a 16:9 format and I play a movie that is 1:85, what difference should I be seeing on the screen (black bars)?

There will be small black bars at the top and bottom of the image. You may not even notice them if you aren't looking closely. Or if you are zoomed out too far they may be spilling over the top and bottom of your screen. The difference between 1.78:1 and 1.85:1 is small. On a 100" 2.35:1 screen the difference will be only 1.5" (3/4" top and bottom).
post #8072 of 8492
Here are a few movies from my collection that claim to be 1.85:1: A Beautiful Mind, Back to the Future (1, 2, or 3), Howl's Moving Castle, Night at the Museum, The Terminator. DVDs of any modern TV show will be 1.78:1 (16:9).


Are the above movies, DVD's or blurays? Thanks
post #8073 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by TVAddikt View Post

Are the above movies, DVD's or blurays? Thanks

Those are all DVDs. I don't have any Blu-ray titles that are 1.85:1.
post #8074 of 8492
Here are a few Blu Ray's that are in 1:85.1 format
30 Days of Night: Dark Days
A.I
Alice in Wonderland
Apocalypto
post #8075 of 8492
Here are some 1.85:1 A/R movies on Blu-ray from my collection:

9
The Blind Side
Shrek
Shrek 2
Shrek The Third
Shrek Forever After
Spider-Man
Waterworld

And some more 1.78:1 on Blu-ray as well.

Avatar
Batman: Under The Red Hood
Beauty And The Beast
The Invincible Iron Man
Star Wars - The Padawan Menace
Tangled
Toy Story
Toy Story 2
Toy Story 3

I knew that spreadsheet of my DVD collection would come in handy someday.
post #8076 of 8492
I pulled out Castaway as it was marked 2:35:1 on the packaging to do my setup, and to my surprise it was 1.85:1...so I used iRobot I used a TV signal on my HTPC to set the 1.78:1.

With my 5 year old LG BH200 player, it takes a while to get the movie loaded up....but hey, it will play every disc format I throw at it.
post #8077 of 8492
TVAddikt, I am going to reiterate what frank 1940 said about using 1.85:1 instead of 1.78:1 (16x9). I do the same thing as it does make the image slightly larger and most movies are going to be 1.85:1 rather than 1.78:1 with the exception of Disney titles and some other random movies. TV will be 1.78:1 but I don't use my theater for TV other than events so it's a non issue for me.

I used to have my auto switch set to 2.35:1 and 1.85:1 and then I would manually use the remote to switch to 1.78:1 when it was needed. But I finally decided to simply use the projectors masking feature and digitally block the spillover on 1.78:1 images when set to 1.85:1 so it doesn't distract me. You could still do the 3 presets and just use the remote to switch to the less used option if you're using auto-switching, but I would definitely recommend having 1.85:1 as one of your presets as you gain a lot of width over what you would see watching a 1.85:1 movie on a 1.78:1 setting. You have the screen real estate, might as well use it! On my screen, which is 2.35:1 and 125 wide, I gain just under 4 of image width by using 1.85:1 over 1.78:1. It doesn't sound like much but it does make a difference. You can even over zoom just a tad so no screen on the top and bottom is missed at all and you will gain even more width.

You can do the math and see what you would gain pretty quickly. Screen width divided by 2.35, multiplied by 1.85. Repeat but multiply by 1.78 the second time. Subtract the difference and you've got your added width!

If you are looking for a movie that is true 1.85:1, just go to Blu-Ray.com and search for any title you have that is labeled as 1.85:1 and make sure it's accurate. They list all the specs one would need including a titles original theatrical aspect ratio. I typically use the opening of Back To The Future on Blu-Ray when I need to realign (which will happen from time to time) as it is true 1.85:1 and is also bright enough on all edges to get an accurate adjustment.

If you want I can also list the THX settings on here after I get home. I too am using a Seymore AV screen so as long as you are using a dark room they should be correct for you.
post #8078 of 8492
My search foo is weak apparently. Has anyone replaced the bulb in their 4000u??

I found one for 112$ "Premier" brand. (link if needed). Im unsure about not buying the panasonic brand one for 300$. Is the cost save worth it?
post #8079 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by FuNkfor20 View Post

My search foo is weak apparently. Has anyone replaced the bulb in their 4000u??

I found one for 112$ "Premier" brand. (link if needed). Im unsure about not buying the panasonic brand one for 300$. Is the cost save worth it?

Try searching this forum. The advice is unanimous. Get the Panasonic bulb. The other is junk.
post #8080 of 8492
Site has been closed down, the pics do not show.
post #8081 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybrsage View Post

Site has been closed down, the pics do not show.

Spammed 5 different threads.
post #8082 of 8492
Ah, my bad.
post #8083 of 8492
I just had a lightning strike at the house that has blown out all the HDMI boards on my 4000 and two other tvs. Has anyone had this repaired and have a suggestion? How expensive? Does anyone no a source on parts? I have a buddy with the knowhow to install the board if I could find one.

A local repair center estimated roughly $500. Not sure if I put that into this projector or not?

thanks, tony
post #8084 of 8492
http://www.pasc.panasonic.com/ePartr/

Put "PT-AE4000U" in the search box and CLICK on "List Part by Model"

Bill
post #8085 of 8492
Thanks so much Bill! I couldn't tell from the descriptions which part number I'm looking for, but I'm going to call them. I hope the entire input section is all one board and it's plug and play. Crossing fingers.
post #8086 of 8492
^Some advice. Just because you were told "It's the HDMI board, be about $500, all told." doesn't mean you are guaranteed that's the only thing that's bad. Could be other things downstream from that that also have problems, but this can't easily be seen until those boards are replaced.

In a nut shell, I would be very hesitant to swap the board as a consumer trying to save a buck, considering parts are pretty much sold without any money back guarantee.

Do the component video inputs still work? They'll give you 720p and 1080i which are not that bad and certainly "HD".

Good luck with whatever happens.
post #8087 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

Thanks so much Bill! I couldn't tell from the descriptions which part number I'm looking for, but I'm going to call them. I hope the entire input section is all one board and it's plug and play. Crossing fingers.

No problem. m. zillch thinking is along the same line as mine. My AE4K suffered the same fate not that long ago, I popped open the case and could see where the VERY top board had been fried so I didn't bother to dig any deeper but I would guess that it wasn't the only one that suffered the fate. I would see if you can find a authorized Panasonic repair facility you can send it to for an estimate. I was lucky as mine was under an extended warranty so I replaced it with a JVC, I wanted to buy back the broken one but they wouldn't let me

http://www.pstc.panasonic.com/WhereT...lidJS=1&Pass=1

Good luck with whichever road you take.

Bill
post #8088 of 8492
Dang tony sorry to hear bout that!

I recently had an onkyo receiver repaired by United Radio in NJ and they are factory certified repair facility for Panny, just in case your interested......

My experience was very good.

Good Luck!
Nicholas
post #8089 of 8492
This sad story highlights the fact that you should always totally unplug your projector from the mains when not in use, and never ever operate it in a thunderstorm! Just switching the projector off will not protect it from lightning - it has to be unplugged from the wall.
post #8090 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by taffman View Post

This sad story highlights the fact that you should always totally unplug your projector from the mains when not in use, and never ever operate it in a thunderstorm! Just switching the projector off will not protect it from lightning - it has to be unplugged from the wall.

My projector is on a dedicated circuit breaker in the garage...thunderstorm, flip breaker, no climbing on the furniture to get to the ceiling
post #8091 of 8492
Hey guys, sorry for posting this question, the search option isn't very specific, either that or I don't know how to search properly but my question is as followed...

Almost forgot to add this in earlier but my room is completely light controlled with dark carpet and walls along with a black ceiling. Now, are you happy with the black levels of your 4000? I know this is still considered an "entry level" projector, but I still thought it would have better than average blacks, mine currently doesn't (I don't feel anyway). Would a good calibration improve the black level dramatically? I have done the contrast and brightness adjustments to avail no noticeable difference, I was hoping some of you could offer some tips or tricks to improve the blacks, if possible.

Side note, I'm not asking this because I feel that I can pull a rabbit out of my hat, but I still feel like it could/should be able to improve. My blacks right now are a bit on the blue side and in dark scenes, objects with a lot of black in them seem to lack detail.

On a good note, I am very happy with the picture overall and with the colors, just not the blacks. This IS my first PJ so I guess I expected a bit more in that department and it didn't help that almost EVERYONE loves their 4000 so I figured it must be extremely acceptable in all categories

A couple more quickies while I'm writing...

My only two options for switching between aspect ratios are by hitting a bunch of buttons on the remote or use auto-switching, correct? I'm ONLY asking because when ppl mention the memory feature, they make it sound like it was a 1-2 button press to switch ratios, when in my case I have to press "menu" --> scroll down to "lens" --> "memory load" --> whatever ratio I choose --> "enter" --> wait for it to adjust --> then return return return... Again, I'm not complaing because it's a hassle, just want to make sure I'm not missing something.. I THOUGHT that the "memory load" button on the remote accessed the saved ratios, but I was wrong apparently?

Why does the lamp change focus as it warms up? I've seen ppl mention to wait half hour before making focus adjustments, is this about right? I also need to test it a bit more but my focus always seems out of place, not where it was set for the previous movie. I will post an update if I find anything factly unusual.

I think that's about it, sorry this is so lengthy

Thanks
post #8092 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by taffman View Post

This sad story highlights the fact that you should always totally unplug your projector from the mains when not in use, and never ever operate it in a thunderstorm! Just switching the projector off will not protect it from lightning - it has to be unplugged from the wall.

Whilst I agree with unplugging during a thunderstorm, my AE4K is connected to the UPS that protects the main servers, that way if there's a power cut then the projector can cool down properly rather than just loosing power and risking cooking the bulb.
post #8093 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by taffman View Post

This sad story highlights the fact that you should always totally unplug your projector from the mains when not in use, and never ever operate it in a thunderstorm! Just switching the projector off will not protect it from lightning - it has to be unplugged from the wall.

As long as EVERYTHING is unplugged or run off of that one circuit, in my case the surge went from rear sub -> receiver -> HMDI outputs and to all my devices. My rear sub was still plugged in...a mistake I will NEVER make again

Bill
post #8094 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Expat444 View Post

...my AE4K is connected to the UPS...that way if there's a power cut then the projector can cool down properly rather than just loosing power and risking cooking the bulb.

Cooking the bulb is not the big deal--cooling the surrounding plastics/filters/electronics is. You are very wise to use a UPS.
post #8095 of 8492
+1 on having a UPS.

I bought an APC 750ES a couple years back that self checks its backup battery condition and notifies me when it needs replacing. Smart idea since rechargeable batteries always fail after a few years.

A couple of months ago my entire city had a blackout and sure enough I was watching my pj at the time. My cable signal went dead and my UPS alarm started beeping. I wasn't even sure what was happening since all the lights in the room were of course turned off and seeing your lights fail is usually how you know there's a blackout.

This saved me potentially hundreds of dollars worth of repairs, perhaps even having to buy a new pj, just for having a device I bought for like $50, IIRC. I'll never go without one and advise anyone with a pj to get one.
post #8096 of 8492
Digital_Chris, there are ways to optimize the black level, from easy to more involved.

1) Use the Auto-iris function
2) In an average setup, the Brightness setting shouldn't be above 0
3) Positionning the projector as far as you can from the screen will help the black level (at the expense of the overall picture brightness)

As for the lens memory toggling, use the Lens button on the remote, it wil bring up the right menu with one touch.
post #8097 of 8492
Thanks for the reply. I turned on the auto iris and didn't notice too much of a difference, but it was worth a shot. I have my brightness turned up +2 after playing the downloadable test patterns and my projector is a good 16' from a 105" screen.

I think I'm really worried about the black levels because I like to watch a lot of horror/thriller films and those are the types of films that are very dark throughout. And because my room is so dark, the blacks have a nice blueish tint to them so they stick out like a sore thumb. My next option is professional calibration, but if that wont help enough, maybe this was the wrong projector for me? :/

It's too bad because everything else is great!!

And thanks for letting me know how to bring up the lens memory section with one button, well technically, two, but it's better than 12
post #8098 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital_Chris View Post

Thanks for the reply. I turned on the auto iris and didn't notice too much of a difference, but it was worth a shot. I have my brightness turned up +2 after playing the downloadable test patterns and my projector is a good 16' from a 105" screen.

I think I'm really worried about the black levels because I like to watch a lot of horror/thriller films and those are the types of films that are very dark throughout. And because my room is so dark, the blacks have a nice blueish tint to them so they stick out like a sore thumb. My next option is professional calibration, but if that wont help enough, maybe this was the wrong projector for me? :/

It's too bad because everything else is great!!

And thanks for letting me know how to bring up the lens memory section with one button, well technically, two, but it's better than 12

How dark is room when watching movie? Any light at all washes out the blacks.....

What picture mode are you using?

What brand screen?
post #8099 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

How dark is room when watching movie? Any light at all washes out the blacks.....

What picture mode are you using?

What brand screen?

The room is pitch black when watching movies, black ceiling, dark gray/black carpet, maroon seats and dark maroon walls.

I have been using Cinema 1 with contrast turned up to +5 and brightness up to +2, I heard that Cinema 1 had the best color out of the box so I applied that setting and then downloaded some test patterns that others here recommended and adjusted the contrast and brightness from there.

I am using Seymour Center Stage SD screen material.

Thanks for keeping on this
post #8100 of 8492
Heh, we have very similar setups, Seymour screen, projector located far away, use of Cinema 1, etc...

I have not used tests patterns, but the black bars on 2.35:1 movies generally can be considered the blackest you will find on a BD. If you use the waveform monitor, it's easy to adjust the black component of the picture (the black bar) to the 0 base-level.

However, if your projector have a blueish tint in its black, something else may be missadjusted or it may be defective. Considere doing an "factory reset" and starting over.

Last, some BD may have been mastered badly, be sure to check several high profile titles of known quality to make an evaluation of the picture quality. Here in Canada, most everything released by Chrystal films and TVA films needs to be played with brightness reduced to -10...
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