Panasonic PT-AE4000 MSRP $1999 - Page 270

So I have a question about setting up this projector for the initial setup. I am remodeling a room and to the point of setting this projector. I am hanging it on the ceiling. Mu screen is a DIY SeymourAV AT screen. I built a 2.35:1 screen. This is my thoughts towards setup (please let me know if I am correct in my thinking.
1. I turned it on and started messing with the settings in the main menu.
2. I need line up the 16:9 picture first. Once I get this tp display properly on the screen. Save the set 16:9 in my lens memory setting.
3. Play a 2:35:1 movie. Get it properly zoomed into fit on my screen. Save this to the lens memory setting.
4. When setting up for 2:35:1 from 16:9 I should not have to adjust vertically or horizontally or something is not right, correct?

This is my first projector that I am setting up. I really appreciate any inout that is provided.

Thanks

Look at this http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post17510238

It helped me when I set mine up.

Point 4 : You WILL have to adjust the image vertically using the menu, not using the real knob on the projector.

That is the basic procedure. You will not be able to center the image horizontally until you get to step 3. You may have to use electronic image shift (V-AREA POSITION from the LENS menu) to get the 2.35:1 image to line up vertically. This setting is saved in memory along with zoom and focus.

Caveat: the projector lens must be as low as the top of the screen in order for this technique to work! Otherwise when you zoom in from the 16:9 setting the projected area will shift off the screen and no amount of electronic shift will be able to fix it.


Once you have the adjustments saved in memory, you should be able to switch between the two memory settings without touching the projector. Provided you paid heed to the caveat above.

Thanks for the info. I can find true 2:35:1 material and I seem to be able to properly zoom etc for 2:35:1. 16:9 seems to be a little more of a challenge. I think the problem I have is finding something that is true 16:9, so I can set the image.

I did have 16:9 and 2:35:1 set and everything seemed fine but then I played a movie that is suppose to be 1:85:1 (Avatar and Bad Teacher) and I don't see anything different between the 16:9 to the 1:85:1.

So to get the 2:35:1 image/movie I used a PS3 and the movie The Three Musketeers. Then I started using my sagetv hd200 to get the 16:9 but I am thinking the hd200 has to many factors in relation to screen size to be reliable enough to use.

So I think I want to use the PS3 to accomplish all formats. I am having trouble finding a 16:9 movie. Any suggestions? I have DVD's and blurays. I will even go and buy the suggested movie if necessary. All bluray's I have seen seem to being produced in 2:35-2:40.
When watching a 16:9 format and I play a movie that is 1:85, what difference should I be seeing on the screen (black bars)?

Thanks for all the help

Be careful! 16:9 is approximately 1.78:1 and I have a feeling that many 1.85:1 movies are actually cropped to 16:9. This prevents the image from having very small bars at the top and bottom. If you are looking for a true 16:9 source material, use an HDTV signal or one of the Calibration Disks--- Spears & Munsil or Digital Video Essentials. If you are looking for true 1.85:1 material, you will have to go through your collection of Blu-ray's and DVD's until you find one that has small black bars at the top and bottom. You will have to look carefully as these black bars are only about 21 pixels high.

I have settings for my projector for 2.35:1, 1.85:1 and 16:9. I generally use the 1.85:1 setting for 16:9 material (ie TV broadcasts) as the image is a bit larger without losing much of the actual show content. (Broadcasters deliberately use a 'safe-area' mask when 'framing' their picture to prevent important image content from being lost as most flatpanel TV's use overscanning as their default setup. )

Avatar actually is 16:9 (also known as 1.78:1), which would explain why you aren't seeing any difference! Bad Teacher should be 1.85:1 but not all manufacturers are honest about the aspect ratio of their discs. But most any DVD menu should utilize the entire screen. Just find a disc with a menu that has a bright background and use that to adjust for 1.78:1. Or use Avatar. Or find a test disc.

Here are a few movies from my collection that claim to be 1.85:1: A Beautiful Mind, Back to the Future (1, 2, or 3), Howl's Moving Castle, Night at the Museum, The Terminator. DVDs of any modern TV show will be 1.78:1 (16:9).


There will be small black bars at the top and bottom of the image. You may not even notice them if you aren't looking closely. Or if you are zoomed out too far they may be spilling over the top and bottom of your screen. The difference between 1.78:1 and 1.85:1 is small. On a 100" 2.35:1 screen the difference will be only 1.5" (3/4" top and bottom).

Here are a few movies from my collection that claim to be 1.85:1: A Beautiful Mind, Back to the Future (1, 2, or 3), Howl's Moving Castle, Night at the Museum, The Terminator. DVDs of any modern TV show will be 1.78:1 (16:9).


Are the above movies, DVD's or blurays? Thanks

Those are all DVDs. I don't have any Blu-ray titles that are 1.85:1.

Here are a few Blu Ray's that are in 1:85.1 format
30 Days of Night: Dark Days
A.I
Alice in Wonderland
Apocalypto

Here are some 1.85:1 A/R movies on Blu-ray from my collection:

9
The Blind Side
Shrek
Shrek 2
Shrek The Third
Shrek Forever After
Spider-Man
Waterworld

And some more 1.78:1 on Blu-ray as well.

Avatar
Batman: Under The Red Hood
Beauty And The Beast
The Invincible Iron Man
Star Wars - The Padawan Menace
Tangled
Toy Story
Toy Story 2
Toy Story 3

I knew that spreadsheet of my DVD collection would come in handy someday.

I pulled out Castaway as it was marked 2:35:1 on the packaging to do my setup, and to my surprise it was 1.85:1...so I used iRobot I used a TV signal on my HTPC to set the 1.78:1.

With my 5 year old LG BH200 player, it takes a while to get the movie loaded up....but hey, it will play every disc format I throw at it.

TVAddikt, I am going to reiterate what frank 1940 said about using 1.85:1 instead of 1.78:1 (16x9). I do the same thing as it does make the image slightly larger and most movies are going to be 1.85:1 rather than 1.78:1 with the exception of Disney titles and some other random movies. TV will be 1.78:1 but I don't use my theater for TV other than events so it's a non issue for me.

I used to have my auto switch set to 2.35:1 and 1.85:1 and then I would manually use the remote to switch to 1.78:1 when it was needed. But I finally decided to simply use the projectors masking feature and digitally block the spillover on 1.78:1 images when set to 1.85:1 so it doesn't distract me. You could still do the 3 presets and just use the remote to switch to the less used option if you're using auto-switching, but I would definitely recommend having 1.85:1 as one of your presets as you gain a lot of width over what you would see watching a 1.85:1 movie on a 1.78:1 setting. You have the screen real estate, might as well use it! On my screen, which is 2.35:1 and 125 wide, I gain just under 4 of image width by using 1.85:1 over 1.78:1. It doesn't sound like much but it does make a difference. You can even over zoom just a tad so no screen on the top and bottom is missed at all and you will gain even more width.

You can do the math and see what you would gain pretty quickly. Screen width divided by 2.35, multiplied by 1.85. Repeat but multiply by 1.78 the second time. Subtract the difference and you've got your added width!

If you are looking for a movie that is true 1.85:1, just go to Blu-Ray.com and search for any title you have that is labeled as 1.85:1 and make sure it's accurate. They list all the specs one would need including a titles original theatrical aspect ratio. I typically use the opening of Back To The Future on Blu-Ray when I need to realign (which will happen from time to time) as it is true 1.85:1 and is also bright enough on all edges to get an accurate adjustment.

If you want I can also list the THX settings on here after I get home. I too am using a Seymore AV screen so as long as you are using a dark room they should be correct for you.

My search foo is weak apparently. Has anyone replaced the bulb in their 4000u??

I found one for 112$ "Premier" brand. (link if needed). Im unsure about not buying the panasonic brand one for 300$. Is the cost save worth it?

Try searching this forum. The advice is unanimous. Get the Panasonic bulb. The other is junk.

Site has been closed down, the pics do not show.

Spammed 5 different threads.

Ah, my bad.

I just had a lightning strike at the house that has blown out all the HDMI boards on my 4000 and two other tvs. Has anyone had this repaired and have a suggestion? How expensive? Does anyone no a source on parts? I have a buddy with the knowhow to install the board if I could find one.

A local repair center estimated roughly $500. Not sure if I put that into this projector or not?

thanks, tony

http://www.pasc.panasonic.com/ePartr/

Put "PT-AE4000U" in the search box and CLICK on "List Part by Model"

Bill

Thanks so much Bill! I couldn't tell from the descriptions which part number I'm looking for, but I'm going to call them. I hope the entire input section is all one board and it's plug and play. Crossing fingers.

^Some advice. Just because you were told "It's the HDMI board, be about $500, all told." doesn't mean you are guaranteed that's the only thing that's bad. Could be other things downstream from that that also have problems, but this can't easily be seen until those boards are replaced.

In a nut shell, I would be very hesitant to swap the board as a consumer trying to save a buck, considering parts are pretty much sold without any money back guarantee.

Do the component video inputs still work? They'll give you 720p and 1080i which are not that bad and certainly "HD".

Good luck with whatever happens.

No problem. m. zillch thinking is along the same line as mine. My AE4K suffered the same fate not that long ago, I popped open the case and could see where the VERY top board had been fried so I didn't bother to dig any deeper but I would guess that it wasn't the only one that suffered the fate. I would see if you can find a authorized Panasonic repair facility you can send it to for an estimate. I was lucky as mine was under an extended warranty so I replaced it with a JVC, I wanted to buy back the broken one but they wouldn't let me

http://www.pstc.panasonic.com/WhereT...lidJS=1&Pass=1

Good luck with whichever road you take.

Bill

Dang tony sorry to hear bout that!

I recently had an onkyo receiver repaired by United Radio in NJ and they are factory certified repair facility for Panny, just in case your interested......

My experience was very good.

Good Luck!
Nicholas

This sad story highlights the fact that you should always totally unplug your projector from the mains when not in use, and never ever operate it in a thunderstorm! Just switching the projector off will not protect it from lightning - it has to be unplugged from the wall.

My projector is on a dedicated circuit breaker in the garage...thunderstorm, flip breaker, no climbing on the furniture to get to the ceiling

Hey guys, sorry for posting this question, the search option isn't very specific, either that or I don't know how to search properly but my question is as followed...

Almost forgot to add this in earlier but my room is completely light controlled with dark carpet and walls along with a black ceiling. Now, are you happy with the black levels of your 4000? I know this is still considered an "entry level" projector, but I still thought it would have better than average blacks, mine currently doesn't (I don't feel anyway). Would a good calibration improve the black level dramatically? I have done the contrast and brightness adjustments to avail no noticeable difference, I was hoping some of you could offer some tips or tricks to improve the blacks, if possible.

Side note, I'm not asking this because I feel that I can pull a rabbit out of my hat, but I still feel like it could/should be able to improve. My blacks right now are a bit on the blue side and in dark scenes, objects with a lot of black in them seem to lack detail.

On a good note, I am very happy with the picture overall and with the colors, just not the blacks. This IS my first PJ so I guess I expected a bit more in that department and it didn't help that almost EVERYONE loves their 4000 so I figured it must be extremely acceptable in all categories

A couple more quickies while I'm writing...

My only two options for switching between aspect ratios are by hitting a bunch of buttons on the remote or use auto-switching, correct? I'm ONLY asking because when ppl mention the memory feature, they make it sound like it was a 1-2 button press to switch ratios, when in my case I have to press "menu" --> scroll down to "lens" --> "memory load" --> whatever ratio I choose --> "enter" --> wait for it to adjust --> then return return return... Again, I'm not complaing because it's a hassle, just want to make sure I'm not missing something.. I THOUGHT that the "memory load" button on the remote accessed the saved ratios, but I was wrong apparently?

Why does the lamp change focus as it warms up? I've seen ppl mention to wait half hour before making focus adjustments, is this about right? I also need to test it a bit more but my focus always seems out of place, not where it was set for the previous movie. I will post an update if I find anything factly unusual.

I think that's about it, sorry this is so lengthy

Thanks

Whilst I agree with unplugging during a thunderstorm, my AE4K is connected to the UPS that protects the main servers, that way if there's a power cut then the projector can cool down properly rather than just loosing power and risking cooking the bulb.

As long as EVERYTHING is unplugged or run off of that one circuit, in my case the surge went from rear sub -> receiver -> HMDI outputs and to all my devices. My rear sub was still plugged in...a mistake I will NEVER make again

Bill

Cooking the bulb is not the big deal--cooling the surrounding plastics/filters/electronics is. You are very wise to use a UPS.