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Panasonic PT-AE4000 MSRP $1999 - Page 271

post #8101 of 8492
Thanks for the input guys. Good points. The plain video input worked with my camera hooked to it. Haven't checked the component input yet, but I could live with that if I had to. Cross our fingers it works.

I understand the "further down the chain" philosophy.

More bad news, the Integra processor seems to be the same deal. I'll send that in to a repair center. It's under warranty....who knows what they'll say...

Sure is hard having the theater down.
post #8102 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

Thanks for the input guys. Good points. The plain video input worked with my camera hooked to it. Haven't checked the component input yet, but I could live with that if I had to. Cross our fingers it works.

I understand the "further down the chain" philosophy.

More bad news, the Integra processor seems to be the same deal. I'll send that in to a repair center. It's under warranty....who knows what they'll say...

Sure is hard having the theater down.

When it's in a state like this you begin to question why you even bother with it at all....then when it's back up and running properly you are reminded why.

Bill
post #8103 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital_Chris View Post

The room is pitch black when watching movies, black ceiling, dark gray/black carpet, maroon seats and dark maroon walls.

I have been using Cinema 1 with contrast turned up to +5 and brightness up to +2, I heard that Cinema 1 had the best color out of the box so I applied that setting and then downloaded some test patterns that others here recommended and adjusted the contrast and brightness from there.

I am using Seymour Center Stage SD screen material.

Thanks for keeping on this

Hi Chris
Did you choose in "HDMI SIGNAL LEVEL" the "EXPAND" mode (instead of normal)? (See the OPTION Menu). I've set it to expand because I use the PJ with my HTPC (set to "expand" level too).
post #8104 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital_Chris View Post

The room is pitch black when watching movies, black ceiling, dark gray/black carpet, maroon seats and dark maroon walls.

I have been using Cinema 1 with contrast turned up to +5 and brightness up to +2, I heard that Cinema 1 had the best color out of the box so I applied that setting and then downloaded some test patterns that others here recommended and adjusted the contrast and brightness from there.

Best way to adjust black level on these projectors is by using the built-in waveform monitor. Just make sure you are putting any "blacker than black" signal below the lower line.

If you are seeing a blue tint in your dark scenes then you need to color calibrate your setup. An appropriate test pattern and a blue filter are all you need to get a good first cut at it. Hopefully that will be enough to eliminate the blue tint. On my 3000 I found that CINEMA 3 was slightly better than CINEMA 1, but both were very close.

I have no problem seeing dark scenes in my theater, so I know the 4000 is capable of delivering what you want. Hopefully this is just a matter of calibration and not something wrong with your unit.
post #8105 of 8492
My blacks are VERY dark.
post #8106 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybrsage View Post

my blacks are very dark.

+1
post #8107 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybrsage View Post

My blacks are VERY dark.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ferbal View Post

+1

Have either of you had your PJ professionally calibrated? If not, what have your tweaks been? Also, does the fact that you're both running a HTPC to the PJ have anything to do with it?

Thanks
post #8108 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital_Chris View Post

Have either of you had your PJ professionally calibrated? If not, what have your tweaks been? Also, does the fact that you're both running a HTPC to the PJ have anything to do with it?

Thanks

I bought a demo unit from ProjectorPeople, so I am not sure if it came precalibrated or not (had 8 hours of use on it when I got it). I did not do anything but turn it on and plug it in, though I can check the settings easily enough and post them here.

I am using expanded 0-255 color settings on my video card, not sure if that makes a difference or not.

EDIT: Cinema 1, all else is set to 0. Auto Iris is on. In Advanced, all are set to zero except detail clarity which is +2. Frame creation is off and color management is normal.
post #8109 of 8492
Thanks for checking on that for me cybr. When you say your blacks are very black, do you mean ALL blacks including a black screen in a movie? That's where its an issue for me. Although, everyones perception of dark backs can be completely different, ya know?
post #8110 of 8492
It is as black as my plasma TV...or at least close enough that I do not notice a difference between when I watch the plasma and when I test the projector. The space scenes in Transformers: Dark of the Moon are VERY stunning. The little white stars blazing on the inky black of space is chubby worthy.

Here is a picture I took of my screen, playing a demo disc I downloaded from this forum. It has a lot of black on it. I know it is just a picture, but remember that pictures tend to wash out the blacks, not improve them. The pic is taken at a slight angle by accident.



If you look halfway between the words and the top, you can see a light line. That is where the white painted screen wall portion ends and the black painted portion of the screen wall starts. The black is Steelers Black, so it is very black.
post #8111 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital_Chris View Post


Have either of you had your PJ professionally calibrated? If not, what have your tweaks been? Also, does the fact that you're both running a HTPC to the PJ have anything to do with it?

Thanks

What source are you evaluating your blacks with?

My Directv HD Receiver had terrible black levels when on my PJ compared to blue ray on PS3. What I saw was blue-gray blacks which were full of noise or grain.

I corrected with Video settings in receiver for that input.

My point is different sources have different black level performance, something to consider. The black level problem in this case was the DTV receiver.
post #8112 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital_Chris View Post

Have either of you had your PJ professionally calibrated? If not, what have your tweaks been? Also, does the fact that you're both running a HTPC to the PJ have anything to do with it?

Thanks

I calibrated my PJ using the WFG and a gray and color bars.
Cinema 1 - Bright = 0 - Contrast = +2 - AutoIris = ON - Frame Creation =+1 - Detail Clarity = +2
I think your problem is in the source (receiver, sat, bluray...)
I use a PC with pc levels (0-255) and that's why I set the HDMI level to EXPAND. If you use video, you must set it the PJ HDMI levels to NORMAL (if not the blacks will be gray)
post #8113 of 8492
Color 1 was suppose to be the best for color when this originaly came out
post #8114 of 8492
Wow cybr, if your blacks look that good in person, I'm a very jealous fella! Thats looks terrific! I can't see ANY line between your painted walls!

Nicks, I was playing the Blu-Ray version of those movies through my Panasonic DMP-BDT210P. As far as I know, I have no video processing going on through the player or my AVR, Marantz SR5005.
post #8115 of 8492
They do, I cannot explain it other than possibly the HTPC.
post #8116 of 8492
So I decided to add the PS3 to the mix and throw on The Matrix to see if it was the player, but this is not the case. I even zoomed out to see how the black bars compared to the screen border and they were darker than the blacks in the actual movie but quite lighter than the black screen border... I'm not sure what else to try..

EDIT: Just a side note if it matters, when projecting a "black" screen via PS3 or Blu-Ray player, and I stick my hand in the light path, quite a bit of light shows up on my hand and the difference between my hand shadow and the black picture on the screen is quite dramatic, I think anyway.
post #8117 of 8492
So I took advice from another thread and ran a temporary HDMI cable from the receiver to the projector and unfortunately there was no difference, I also tried running the HDMI cable straight from the Blu-ray player to the projector, and again, no difference.

I did make a little bit of progress though, I had Transformers dark of the moon playing to see the star scene in the beginning, I paused it and went through a few settings. When It's set to cinema 1 like normal, I can see a difference between the black sky and the black bars, but then when I switch it to cinema 2, the black bars and the black screen blend much better. The projector is still throwing out quite a bit of light for the black bars though, but at least I got the movie blacks to match the black bars better
post #8118 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital_Chris View Post

Wow cybr, if your blacks look that good in person, I'm a very jealous fella! Thats looks terrific! I can't see ANY line between your painted walls!


Screenshots posted in internet forums (or seen at professional pj review sites, for that matter) can not be used to properly evaluate the actual user experience of pj black level (or color rendition) due to the variability of camera settings and one's monitor (one attempts to view them on), among other things, regardless of the measurement equipment's price/quality/technician's expertise.
post #8119 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by wnl View Post

Best way to adjust black level on these projectors is by using the built-in waveform monitor.

Correct, and one should use a grayscale ramp pattern when doing so, being generated from the source they want to calibrate to.

[Unfortunately, if one properly calibrates to their, say, bluray deck they may not have exactly the correct results if they then switch to their computer's output, even if they stay on the exact same input on the pj and do that switching from an external switch box, such as an A/V receiver, but it should be pretty close]
post #8120 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital_Chris View Post

So I took advice from another thread and ran a temporary HDMI cable from the receiver to the projector and unfortunately there was no difference, I also tried running the HDMI cable straight from the Blu-ray player to the projector, and again, no difference.

I did make a little bit of progress though, I had Transformers dark of the moon playing to see the star scene in the beginning, I paused it and went through a few settings. When It's set to cinema 1 like normal, I can see a difference between the black sky and the black bars, but then when I switch it to cinema 2, the black bars and the black screen blend much better. The projector is still throwing out quite a bit of light for the black bars though, but at least I got the movie blacks to match the black bars better

Out of curiosity, do you have an HDMI out on your PC? If so, try hooking your PC up to the projector and playing something.
post #8121 of 8492
I do not have HDMI out nor do I have a blu-ray player built in to either my desktop (which I rarely use) or my macbook pro. I can try my macbook pro (DVI to HDMI) to see how the blacks look with a HD trailer or something, maybe?
post #8122 of 8492
I have a question about setting up the 12 volt trigger. I want to have the projector turn on when my Onkyo TXSR876 turns on. The receiver does have a 12 volt trigger but it is only for zone 2. So I have read about another trick prople have used. This involves a 12v wall wart, cat5 and a 3.5mm mono connector. I want to make sure I am doing this correctly. This is what I have done so far:
1. Bought a 3.5mm mono connector.
2. Soldered the cat5 to the 3.5mm mono connector. I used 1 pair (or 2 wires) per leg. The blue/bluewhite and the orange/orangewhite.
3. I found an old wall wart. It is a wall wart from a "netgear" device. The specs are output= 12v, 1.2a. Will this work?
4. The wall wart will plug into the switched outlet on the Onkyo receiver.
5. The Panny will be configured to accept a 12v in trigger.

If the above setup will work, which leg does the positive attach to. Does the positive attach to the center? Do I need to add anything else to the setup to make this work?

Thanks for the help
post #8123 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by TVAddikt View Post

I have a question about setting up the 12 volt trigger. I want to have the projector turn on when my Onkyo TXSR876 turns on. The receiver does have a 12 volt trigger but it is only for zone 2. So I have read about another trick prople have used. This involves a 12v wall wart, cat5 and a 3.5mm mono connector. I want to make sure I am doing this correctly. This is what I have done so far:
1. Bought a 3.5mm mono connector.
2. Soldered the cat5 to the 3.5mm mono connector. I used 1 pair (or 2 wires) per leg. The blue/bluewhite and the orange/orangewhite.
3. I found an old wall wart. It is a wall wart from a "netgear" device. The specs are output= 12v, 1.2a. Will this work?
4. The wall wart will plug into the switched outlet on the Onkyo receiver.
5. The Panny will be configured to accept a 12v in trigger.

If the above setup will work, which leg does the positive attach to. Does the positive attach to the center? Do I need to add anything else to the setup to make this work?

Thanks for the help

Just a thought, if you use a programmable remote like a Harmony. You can have it automaticlly turn on Zone 2 with a normal power on and that will activate the trigger. I use this method to to trigger my amps using the Zone 2 trigger, works very well and once programmed you never thing about it again.
post #8124 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

Just a thought, if you use a programmable remote like a Harmony. You can have it automaticlly turn on Zone 2 with a normal power on and that will activate the trigger. I use this method to to trigger my amps using the Zone 2 trigger, works very well and once programmed you never thing about it again.

Thanks for the info. I am in the process of making my new HT work. Have you ever setup a wall wart like I described in order to act as a 12 volt trigger? The two questions I had in that setup are:
1. Yes it is a 12 v wall wart but it puts out 1.2 A. Is 1.2a to much?
2. Do I need to add anything else in between the wall wart and the projector?

My HT has quite a few components that need to be activated in order for a move to happen. So I am trying to keep my options open.
post #8125 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by TVAddikt View Post

Thanks for the info. I am in the process of making my new HT work. Have you ever setup a wall wart like I described in order to act as a 12 volt trigger? The two questions I had in that setup are:
1. Yes it is a 12 v wall wart but it puts out 1.2 A. Is 1.2a to much?
2. Do I need to add anything else in between the wall wart and the projector?

My HT has quite a few components that need to be activated in order for a move to happen. So I am trying to keep my options open.

Sorry never had a wall wart.

I use the harmony to do everything in the theater. One push of the power button does everything.

1) turns on Reciever
2) Turns on Zone 2 which triggers the amps
3) turns on the projector
4) opens masking on the screen

Off does the same in reverse, guess I see no reason to trigger the projector. Actually that could be a bad thing as some times we just turn on the reciever for music and don't want the projector on.
post #8126 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by TVAddikt View Post

I have a question about setting up the 12 volt trigger. I want to have the projector turn on when my Onkyo TXSR876 turns on. The receiver does have a 12 volt trigger but it is only for zone 2. So I have read about another trick prople have used. This involves a 12v wall wart, cat5 and a 3.5mm mono connector. I want to make sure I am doing this correctly. This is what I have done so far:
1. Bought a 3.5mm mono connector.
2. Soldered the cat5 to the 3.5mm mono connector. I used 1 pair (or 2 wires) per leg. The blue/bluewhite and the orange/orangewhite.
3. I found an old wall wart. It is a wall wart from a "netgear" device. The specs are output= 12v, 1.2a. Will this work?
4. The wall wart will plug into the switched outlet on the Onkyo receiver.
5. The Panny will be configured to accept a 12v in trigger.

If the above setup will work, which leg does the positive attach to. Does the positive attach to the center? Do I need to add anything else to the setup to make this work?

Thanks for the help

Your solution is possible but elegant.

I turn on my onkyo with HDMI control. I turn on the projector and the rest of the system comes on. It does require that the projector be on though but most of the time I'm navigating the media server anyways.

Turn on RHID Hdmi control, then set Power ON and Power OFF to yes or however your controller words it.....
post #8127 of 8492
sorry if this was discussed - this is a massive thread :-)

i am having replace lamp warnings on my panny and wanted to buy a replacement the part # is et-lae4000 - when i do a search i get the entire housing unit and bulb for about 300-350 but i have seen another that keeps coming up without the housing for about 200 - should i just just get the one that has the housing to be easy? would the cheaper one be difficult to install?

also my temp warming keeps coming on - our HT is the coolest room in the house any other reasons this may occur?

thanks!
post #8128 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by iamjason View Post

also my temp warming keeps coming on - our HT is the coolest room in the house any other reasons this may occur?

thanks!

Are you cleaning the air filter regularly?

As for replacement lamps, it seems to be the consensus of the people in this thread to only buy genuine Panasonic brand ones, and to the best of my knowledge, to do that you need to buy the entire lamp housing for $300 to $350.

You also get an extra air filter when you buy it this way.
post #8129 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by TVAddikt View Post

Thanks for the info. I am in the process of making my new HT work. Have you ever setup a wall wart like I described in order to act as a 12 volt trigger? The two questions I had in that setup are:
1. Yes it is a 12 v wall wart but it puts out 1.2 A. Is 1.2a to much?
2. Do I need to add anything else in between the wall wart and the projector?

My HT has quite a few components that need to be activated in order for a move to happen. So I am trying to keep my options open.

current isn't pushed, it's drawn. so that wall wart you're looking doesn't put out 1.2 amps, it's capable of putting out 1.2 amps. as long as thats more than what the projector's sensor will draw, that adapter should work fine. and i don't know the specifics of the sensors, but i can't imagine they require more than a couple hundred milliamps at most.
post #8130 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

Are you cleaning the air filter regularly?

As for replacement lamps, it seems to be the consensus of the people in this thread to only buy genuine Panasonic brand ones, and to the best of my knowledge, to do that you need to buy the entire lamp housing for $300 to $350.

You also get an extra air filter when you buy it this way.

thanks for the info - tbh i did not even know that it had a filter - just cleaned it and the temp warning is now gone! still get the replace bulb warning so i will get the entire housing and wait for the current one to fail - the colors still look great but it is up there on hours - thanks again
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