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Panasonic PT-AE4000 MSRP $1999 - Page 272

post #8131 of 8336
5/18/12 at 6:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TVAddikt View Post

Thanks for the info. I am in the process of making my new HT work. Have you ever setup a wall wart like I described in order to act as a 12 volt trigger? The two questions I had in that setup are:
1. Yes it is a 12 v wall wart but it puts out 1.2 A. Is 1.2a to much?
2. Do I need to add anything else in between the wall wart and the projector?

My HT has quite a few components that need to be activated in order for a move to happen. So I am trying to keep my options open.

Sorry never had a wall wart.

I use the harmony to do everything in the theater. One push of the power button does everything.

1) turns on Reciever
2) Turns on Zone 2 which triggers the amps
3) turns on the projector
4) opens masking on the screen

Off does the same in reverse, guess I see no reason to trigger the projector. Actually that could be a bad thing as some times we just turn on the reciever for music and don't want the projector on.
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post #8132 of 8336
5/18/12 at 7:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TVAddikt View Post

I have a question about setting up the 12 volt trigger. I want to have the projector turn on when my Onkyo TXSR876 turns on. The receiver does have a 12 volt trigger but it is only for zone 2. So I have read about another trick prople have used. This involves a 12v wall wart, cat5 and a 3.5mm mono connector. I want to make sure I am doing this correctly. This is what I have done so far:
1. Bought a 3.5mm mono connector.
2. Soldered the cat5 to the 3.5mm mono connector. I used 1 pair (or 2 wires) per leg. The blue/bluewhite and the orange/orangewhite.
3. I found an old wall wart. It is a wall wart from a "netgear" device. The specs are output= 12v, 1.2a. Will this work?
4. The wall wart will plug into the switched outlet on the Onkyo receiver.
5. The Panny will be configured to accept a 12v in trigger.

If the above setup will work, which leg does the positive attach to. Does the positive attach to the center? Do I need to add anything else to the setup to make this work?

Thanks for the help

Your solution is possible but elegant.

I turn on my onkyo with HDMI control. I turn on the projector and the rest of the system comes on. It does require that the projector be on though but most of the time I'm navigating the media server anyways.

Turn on RHID Hdmi control, then set Power ON and Power OFF to yes or however your controller words it.....
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post #8133 of 8336
5/18/12 at 8:12am
sorry if this was discussed - this is a massive thread :-)

i am having replace lamp warnings on my panny and wanted to buy a replacement the part # is et-lae4000 - when i do a search i get the entire housing unit and bulb for about 300-350 but i have seen another that keeps coming up without the housing for about 200 - should i just just get the one that has the housing to be easy? would the cheaper one be difficult to install?

also my temp warming keeps coming on - our HT is the coolest room in the house any other reasons this may occur?

thanks!
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post #8134 of 8336
5/18/12 at 10:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by iamjason View Post

also my temp warming keeps coming on - our HT is the coolest room in the house any other reasons this may occur?

thanks!

Are you cleaning the air filter regularly?

As for replacement lamps, it seems to be the consensus of the people in this thread to only buy genuine Panasonic brand ones, and to the best of my knowledge, to do that you need to buy the entire lamp housing for $300 to $350.

You also get an extra air filter when you buy it this way.
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post #8135 of 8336
5/18/12 at 12:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by TVAddikt View Post

Thanks for the info. I am in the process of making my new HT work. Have you ever setup a wall wart like I described in order to act as a 12 volt trigger? The two questions I had in that setup are:
1. Yes it is a 12 v wall wart but it puts out 1.2 A. Is 1.2a to much?
2. Do I need to add anything else in between the wall wart and the projector?

My HT has quite a few components that need to be activated in order for a move to happen. So I am trying to keep my options open.

current isn't pushed, it's drawn. so that wall wart you're looking doesn't put out 1.2 amps, it's capable of putting out 1.2 amps. as long as thats more than what the projector's sensor will draw, that adapter should work fine. and i don't know the specifics of the sensors, but i can't imagine they require more than a couple hundred milliamps at most.
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post #8136 of 8336
5/19/12 at 5:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

Are you cleaning the air filter regularly?

As for replacement lamps, it seems to be the consensus of the people in this thread to only buy genuine Panasonic brand ones, and to the best of my knowledge, to do that you need to buy the entire lamp housing for $300 to $350.

You also get an extra air filter when you buy it this way.

thanks for the info - tbh i did not even know that it had a filter - just cleaned it and the temp warning is now gone! still get the replace bulb warning so i will get the entire housing and wait for the current one to fail - the colors still look great but it is up there on hours - thanks again
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post #8137 of 8336
5/19/12 at 10:22am
Still one of the best, huh?

Yeah, I made the right choice getting one at $1800 with an extra lamp from Panasonic over a year ago, and it's still going strong.

Epson? =
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post #8138 of 8336
5/19/12 at 2:11pm
Sorry I have not read through the entire massive thread and I am not looking to use someone else's settings as I am going to do a full D65 calibration myself. What I am looking for is any calibration tips/tricks that are specific to this unit that I may not be aware of otherwise (well maybe if I read through the entire thread but do not currently have the time for that ).

I will be calibrating with an (i1Pro spectro corrected) i1D3 so my question pertains to that type of calibration but any insider tweaks/tips specific to the AE4000 are welcome and appreciated.

Thank You,
Jason

* Wow, 8 hours later and not a single response for such a huge user base, kind of surprising. Ah well, maybe some responses tomorrow.
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post #8139 of 8336
5/20/12 at 2:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaGamePimp View Post

Sorry I have not read through the entire massive thread and I am not looking to use someone else's settings as I am going to do a full D65 calibration myself. What I am looking for is any calibration tips/tricks that are specific to this unit that I may not be aware of otherwise (well maybe if I read through the entire thread but do not currently have the time for that ).

I will be calibrating with an (i1Pro spectro corrected) i1D3 so my question pertains to that type of calibration but any insider tweaks/tips specific to the AE4000 are welcome and appreciated.

Thank You,
Jason

* Wow, 8 hours later and not a single response for such a huge user base, kind of surprising. Ah well, maybe some responses tomorrow.

If you are going to use its CMS to calibrate gamut, it is much better to use the 75% method (I.e. 75% saturation RGBCMY patterns @ 100% stimulus level) in Cinema 1 mode. I had achieved great result using this method.

Moreover, please be warned that if you calibrate grayscale first, any large change in Advanced Gamma setting or the CMS setting (esp. large change on the primaries), it will have large effect on your grayscale. Pls be prepared to do it iteratively with respect to grayscale, gamma, gamut, grayscale, gamma, gamut, ...
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post #8140 of 8336
5/20/12 at 3:31am
dominickwok,

Thank you for those specifics, much appreciated!

I was under the impression that Color 1 was the closest to accurate but I'll give Cinema 1 a run through and see how they compare.

Thanks again,
Jason
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post #8141 of 8336
5/20/12 at 8:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaGamePimp View Post

dominickwok,

Thank you for those specifics, much appreciated!

I was under the impression that Color 1 was the closest to accurate but I'll give Cinema 1 a run through and see how they compare.

Thanks again,
Jason

I suggest you measure the RGBCMY saturation sweep (0%, 25%, 50%, 75%, 100%) in Color 1 to see how the gamut performs in your specific environment. In mine, it suffers from serious color desaturation in almost all the primaries and secondaries with saturation level under 75% (only at the boundary 100% saturation it performs reasonably well). Since the CMS is disabled in Color 1, I can't do anything about it; and that's why I resort to Cinema 1 for color gamut calibration.
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post #8142 of 8336
5/20/12 at 4:02pm
Ah, once again thank you! I did not know the CMS was disabled in Color 1.

Jason
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post #8143 of 8336
5/24/12 at 4:59am
For the record, I received the estimate back from Heartland regarding the lightning strike and HDMI not working. Basically replacing circuit board "a" and the lamp. Total of $1388.

Sent that off to insurance and we'll see what they say. I'm wrestling with fix it vs. moving on. If you look at it as $1388 off of a new projector, it seems like an opportunity...
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post #8144 of 8336
5/24/12 at 5:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

For the record, I received the estimate back from Heartland regarding the lightning strike and HDMI not working. Basically replacing circuit board "a" and the lamp. Total of $1388.

Sent that off to insurance and we'll see what they say. I'm wrestling with fix it vs. moving on. If you look at it as $1388 off of a new projector, it seems like an opportunity...

What about your receiver, and...other? Remember too you probably don't have a $0 deductible on yr insurance policy (mine is $1000 I think).
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post #8145 of 8336
5/24/12 at 6:52am
OUCH! ::makes note to get that UPS setup for my projector::
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post #8146 of 8336
5/25/12 at 12:35pm
Mine has been perfect, glad I chose this over the Epson and others!
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post #8147 of 8336
5/25/12 at 12:47pm
cybrsage, mine was on a UPS!

laserfan, mines at $1k. I'm well over that, with two other tvs, a dishwasher, the projector, a computer and the processor. Haven't heard back from the others.
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post #8148 of 8336
5/25/12 at 12:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

cybrsage, mine was on a UPS!

laserfan, mines at $1k. I'm well over that, with two other tvs, a dishwasher, the projector, a computer and the processor. Haven't heard back from the others.

Most UPS's have coverage for what is hooked to them.
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post #8149 of 8336
5/25/12 at 1:48pm
This one does. But it's a real pain in the butt. If it will fall in the homeowners (which it will) I'm going to keep things simple. The UPC company really puts you through it from what I've heard.
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post #8150 of 8336
6/1/12 at 2:49am
So will an AE4000 that has been used in Eco mode still have the 1800 hour / 2000 hour lamp warnings and require a reset?

I was under the impression the lamp was rated 3000 hours in Eco.

Has anyone ordered an AE4000 lamp from ProVantage and if so was it the actual Panasonic lamp (with new filter)?

Thank You,
Jason
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post #8151 of 8336
6/1/12 at 8:22am
I used my first AE4000 bulb mostly on Eco and it warned after around 2,200 hours. I bought a new bulb from ProVantage and it was a real Panasonic lamp with filter. Since I'm up to 1,600 hours (and have gone to Normal mode for extra brighness) I'm probably going to go back to ProVantage for another bulb sometime this month.

Mike
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post #8152 of 8336
6/1/12 at 12:34pm
Thank You Mike, much appreciated.

Jason
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post #8153 of 8336
6/3/12 at 11:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Sargent View Post

I used my first AE4000 bulb mostly on Eco and it warned after around 2,200 hours. I bought a new bulb from ProVantage and it was a real Panasonic lamp with filter. Since I'm up to 1,600 hours (and have gone to Normal mode for extra brighness) I'm probably going to go back to ProVantage for another bulb sometime this month.

Mike

Exactly the info I came here looking for, thanks. I've always run mine in eco mode, more than bright enough, and I just got to 1700 hours after 2 1/2 years. The manual only talks about the warning coming at 1800 & 2000 hours, so I was using Google shopping to see what a replacement lamp will run me. Looks like around $300 if you want a genuine Panasonic replacement, $200 for a keep your fingers crossed "OEM compatible". I'll spend the extra $$ & go with Panasonic, but looks like I have a couple hundred hours before having to worry about it. I especially want a replacement air filter - although I clean it regularly I finally quit smoking last summer, but for the first 18 months the projector suffered as my lungs used to and the foam on the filter is brownish.
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post #8154 of 8336
6/3/12 at 1:02pm
I'm still at 600. after 1.5 years, I won't have to worry about it for a while
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post #8155 of 8336
6/4/12 at 11:41am
Hello projector dudes

If anyone around Chicago wants to sell me one of these 4000's PM me. I'm not interested in 3D just yet.
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post #8156 of 8336
6/4/12 at 12:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wasteofmoney View Post

Hello projector dudes

If anyone around Chicago wants to sell me one of these 4000's PM me. I'm not interested in 3D just yet.

Good luck, these hardly every pop up and when they do they are fairly expensive (unless you happen to get really lucky ). Although I would guess that over the next couple years you'll see more of them on the used market, just has not happened as of yet. The few used ones I have seen somewhat recently have sold in the $1500 range (one went for $1800 with new lamp/mount and one went for $1200 with 1400+ hours). I would guess these used prices are simply due to not many out there for what was a highly sought after unit and still compares well against the current non-3D market (at least in this price range).

Best of luck,
Jason
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post #8157 of 8336
6/4/12 at 2:11pm
Thanks for the info Jason

Would you say the difference in non-3D image quality is marginal between the 7000 and 4000? In other words, if I dont want 3D, would I just be wasting my money on a 7000?
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post #8158 of 8336
6/4/12 at 2:50pm
Well I have not seen the 7000 as of yet but will be calibrating one down the road as the guy I bought the 4000 from now has the 7000. He said other than the 3D and added lumen's the image is very similar, which is why he bought it (since he enjoyed the 4000 so much). That said if you have no need for 3D you would certainly be spending a good bit more for the 7000 over a used 4000 (assuming you can find one) for very marginal gains with 2D. I am going to be installing/calibrating a JVC X30 this coming weekend and after spending some time with that I'll probably feel more inclined to buy a JVC (which has been my plan for a while). So if I venture down that path I'll be selling the current AE4000 with 1600+ hours on original lamp and D65 calibrated, don't know yet and it depends on what kind of deals I find on the JVC as I don't care about 3D either (have a 3Dtv and have hardly used the 3D, much prefer a pristine 2D image).

Jason
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post #8159 of 8336
6/4/12 at 7:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaGamePimp View Post

So will an AE4000 that has been used in Eco mode still have the 1800 hour / 2000 hour lamp warnings and require a reset?

I was under the impression the lamp was rated 3000 hours in Eco.

Has anyone ordered an AE4000 lamp from ProVantage and if so was it the actual Panasonic lamp (with new filter)?

Thank You,
Jason

I am on 1200 hours on my ProVantage bulb I got over a year ago. I am surprised to hear these new numbers in 2000-3000 hours when my stock bulb quit at 1500 on the dot. I hope I can get 2000 hours on this bulb, It is very bright at 1200 now.
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post #8160 of 8336
6/4/12 at 11:09pm
Bye old AVS Forum.
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