or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP › Panasonic PT-AE4000 MSRP $1999
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Panasonic PT-AE4000 MSRP $1999 - Page 275

post #8221 of 8492
There was a recent post by Chad B. where he had solid results calibrating Normal mode versus using Cinema, maybe give that a shot (I plan on doing it once I have hit 100+ hours on my new lamp).

Jason
post #8222 of 8492
Has anyone setup their AE4000 as part of an automation with a grafik eye system? Am trying to discover how to do it, but any information on how to do it seems hard to find. Basically I want the projector to turn on as part of a scene, but am not sure of the connection between the projector and the GE to do this.
post #8223 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSly View Post

Has anyone setup their AE4000 as part of an automation with a grafik eye system? Am trying to discover how to do it, but any information on how to do it seems hard to find. Basically I want the projector to turn on as part of a scene, but am not sure of the connection between the projector and the GE to do this.

i'm not super familiar with the graphic eye, but i believe you'd just need to put one of your zone's into "switch" mode, then have it switch any old 12v dc power source as part of your scene. run the switched 12v line (terminated with a 3.5mm TS plug) to the projector, plug it into trigger 1, then in the projectors "option" menu set trigger 1 to "input" and "power on/off". as for how you get a constant 12v to the grafik eye, i can think of a lot of different possibilities depending on your exact situation - some more "code friendly" than others. and speaking of code, if you care about it, you may want to check what you local code says about mixing high and low voltage wiring the same box. it's my understanding that some places allow it, some allow it as long as the box is segregated, and some don't allow it at all. i suppose if need be, you could always have the GE switch line voltage, then transform and rectify it somewhere else.
post #8224 of 8492
I've had my AE4000U since the day they were released. At this time, my lamp hours are at 1725 (I travel a lot, hence the low usage). I've not had any problems with my projector until now. While watching a movie off the DVR, I put the film on pause for a couple of minutes. When I got back and restarted, the screen went black and then the film resumed; maybe thirty seconds later, the same thing happened and it continued to alternate between film and black about every 30 seconds. The black never stayed black more than about 5 seconds. I did a power cycle and things were running fine until I paused the film again and experienced the same problems. Again, restarted and all was well. Moved onto another program on the DVR and it played fine for about 20 minutes and again the problem re-occurred; this time it only flashed black twice and then seemed fine. I realize I'm getting close to a lamp replacement, but there was no indication on the screen or on the projector that there were/are lamp issues. I clean the filters regularly and the projector runs quietly and doesn't get very hot. Anyone have any idea what could be causing this? I'd hate to lay out $350 for a lamp and find I've still got issues.
post #8225 of 8492
When you say "the screen goes black" do you mean the bulb turns off [pitch black] or that the video signal is "black" and you can still make shadow puppets?

See if it happens with a component video connection too. It could be the HDMI handshake is having issues due to a weak signal, and possible reason for that is the connections have started to come loose or are oxidizing. Disconnecting and re-connecting the entire chain of HDMI jacks from source through switchers, and finally th pj itself, will scrape the contacts clean, and let you make sure everything is snug and well-seated while you are at it..

edit to add: I just checked the manual . At 1800 hours "Replace Lamp" will appear on screen but it will disappear if you hit any buttons. In later stages it goes off completely.
https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/projector/extranet/main/manual/ae4000/AE4000U_Eng-OI.pdf
Edited by m. zillch - 8/24/12 at 11:03pm
post #8226 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSly View Post

Has anyone setup their AE4000 as part of an automation with a grafik eye system? Am trying to discover how to do it, but any information on how to do it seems hard to find. Basically I want the projector to turn on as part of a scene, but am not sure of the connection between the projector and the GE to do this.

I use a Logitech Harmony remote to control my Grafik eye setup. While I hadn't completely integrated it into calling up a scene when the activity (i.e., watching a Bluray) is started, I do have scenes for each activity that can called with a single button push. For example, I can set the theater lights to allow for easy access to seating or turn the lights completely off. For TV watching (sport events is a big thing at our place, I have a really low rear room light scene which provides enough light to be able to eat, drink and move about.

After having lived with this setup for over two years, I can tell it is a real convenience to be able to set the appropriate lighting scene at a single button push rather than having a pre-programmed. I don't know if I would really want the lights to be turned off when the projector is turned on as many times I haven't load the Bluray into the player when I switcvh to the 'watch movie' activity.
post #8227 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

When you say "the screen goes black" do you mean the bulb turns off [pitch black] or that the video signal is "black" and you can still make shadow puppets?
See if it happens with a component video connection too. It could be the HDMI handshake is having issues due to a weak signal, and possible reason for that is the connections have started to come loose or are oxidizing. Disconnecting and re-connecting the entire chain of HDMI jacks from source through switchers, and finally th pj itself, will scrape the contacts clean, and let you make sure everything is snug and well-seated while you are at it..
edit to add: I just checked the manual . At 1800 hours "Replace Lamp" will appear on screen but it will disappear if you hit any buttons. In later stages it goes off completely.
https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/projector/extranet/main/manual/ae4000/AE4000U_Eng-OI.pdf

The screen went dark (no shadow puppets possible); when I switched off the DVR unit, then the screen went to blue, but it was still flashing to the point that I had to try to time the flashes in order to use the menu to check bulb hours. It was almost like the projector was cycling on and off. This concerns me because at that point I started switching inputs, yet still got the same flashing regardless of which input I chose. It also indicates that the problem doesn't seem to be cabling. Here's a response I got from Panasonic:
The first suggestion I have is to try using a shorter cable that is 8ft or shorter. HDMI cables over 8ft causes the signal to travel greater distances to unit and thins the signal to a point where it might have some gaps between the time the signal reaches the projector and when it leaves the video source. Also, check and see if the same issue happens with other devices with a shorter HDMI cable. If it only happens when using the DVR or with a cable over 8ft then it would not be an issue with the projector. If the issue only occurs with with a cable over 8ft long then you may need to consider using an HDMI extender so that you can use a shorter HDMI cable when connecting devices to the projector.

We hope this information is helpful.

Thank you for contacting Panasonic

Since I have a spare HDMI cable in the ceiling, I'll try using a different cable today if your suggestion to unplug the cables and re-plug them in doesn't work. FWIW, I am using high end HDMI cables with heavy jacketing from Blue Jean and I replaced them when I installed the new projector in Oct '09. I'm not sure I'm buying into the Panasonic response since I've had the same cabling set up for almost 3 years and while I've read about problems with super-long HDMI cables, it seems unlikely that a functioning 12' cable would present such problems. As noted above, however, I'm not sure that it's cabling causing the problem. Thanks for your response and I will report the results and further test different configurations today.

UPDATE: At this point, it appears that the HDMI cable between Directv box and PJ has failed. Backup cable worked fine, though I guess I'll have to test things a couple more days to be sure. I've also noticed that the colors with the replacement cable are much warmer than the one that was failing.
Edited by bruce3404 - 8/26/12 at 2:28am
post #8228 of 8492
Does anyone know of or know where I can find the amount of video delay each Frame creation mode causes?

I want to start using it more, but need to know how much to delay the audio.
I've searched and found a few #s from rockband or something, but those aren't very exact from my understanding.

Thanks!
post #8229 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by bruce3404 View Post

The screen went dark (no shadow puppets possible)....
If by that you mean the bulb (Panasonic calls it a lamp) extinguishes completely because it gets no electricity [hold a flat surface inches away from the front lens to verify] then what HDMI cable you use or distances has nothing to do with it. I would try removing and reseating the bulb. Some people have reported that the sensor which monitors if the external door for this area is open, falsely indicates the door is ajar and will refuse to fire the bulb up. This is especially true of people who don't shut the lamp door firmly or fail to seat the bulb fully (deeply) in its cradle area .

If the bulb still turns off spontaneously despite being installed properly, you may have a hairline crack in the electrical path [in the bulb itself, possibly] which makes and breaks contact, intermittently, due to a cylce of thermal expansion and then contraction (cooling) of the metal and need a new bulb. Just a guess, though, I'm not guaranteeing it.
Quote:
I've also noticed that the colors with the replacement cable are much warmer than the one that was failing.]

Digital connections either successfuly transfer the stream of 0's and 1's from one location to another, or they dont, there's no such thing as "this USB cord gives the music more bass" or "this HDMI cord makes the colors warmer".The numerous "audiophile" magazines which indicate otherwise should be shunned as unscientific followers of superstition and pareidolia.

I have a lot on my plate right at the moment and unfortunately dont have the time to address any further follow up. Please seek others' advice for any further help. Good luck with your issue. I hope you can solve the issue without having to pay for a repair.
post #8230 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaggeto View Post

Does anyone know of or know where I can find the amount of video delay each Frame creation mode causes?
I want to start using it more, but need to know how much to delay the audio.
I've searched and found a few #s from rockband or something, but those aren't very exact from my understanding.
Thanks!

The DVE HD Basics disc has a calibration pattern for you to adjust audio delay. It is buried in the Advanced Patterns section (can't remember the name of the pattern). It displays a running circle with a beep sound emitted from the centre speaker channel whenever it's radius hits the 12:00 position. You can then adjust the audio delay of your receiver to match the audio (the beep) with the video (radius at 12:00 position). For my case, I use 75ms as the audio delay in my Onkyo receiver when using Mode 1 of Frame Creation (I don't have figure for other mode because I use Mode 1 exclusively).
post #8231 of 8492
Interesting... I looked in the audio section and couldn't find it but will look in the advanced video section. I quickly scrolled through these as well but didn't see anything for sync.
post #8232 of 8492
Hi!
I've been looking for a solution to my problem into the forum, and I cannot find it.
Yesterday watching a movie, suddenly the VP AE4000 shut off, but before that made some stranges sounds ( Like clicks). I open the box and unistall and install the lamp, thinking that was the problem. But no think. Reading here in AVSForum, somebody explained about the EXT Menú, I tríed it and found that my problem is with the Iris. Searching again, found that in models before PT-AE 4000 (like 1000) the problem was resolved lubricating the iris mechanism. I watched a video in Youtube Where clearly i can see the iris mechanism and the way they lubricated the iris, but I cannot found some video for the AE4000 and since the internal hardware is diferent, i don't find the iris to Apply some lubricating.

Some of you known how may i to Apply lubricating to my Panny?

Regards!
post #8233 of 8492
frown.gif
post #8234 of 8492
Sorry, but I guess none of us know.

Although I know many people do it, and some report great success, opening and futzing with the innards of their pjs themselves, I'm leery of doing it myself and I am generally pretty good with such things. The thing is none of us own anything even remotely close to a "clean room" where the ambient air has been professionally filtered to remove all of the invisible to the naked eye dust. If any of this falls on an LCD panel, polarizer, prism, internal lens surface, etc it can cause a dust blob problem with the image.

For every "Look I fixed my pj myself !" post I wonder if there are an equal number of people who tried to, but then later ended up with dust blobs and are too embarrassed to post since they realize it was their own damn fault, so they stay quiet and we never hear from them!

Obviously it will cost money, but I think a visit to an authorized service center is the next step. True, they may not have "clean rooms" either, however they have facilities to test the image before the final tightening of the screws when putting it back together and they can be held accountable if there is any issue after the fact (for 90 days usually).
post #8235 of 8492
You can always send it to Heartland Services who does all of the Panasonic warranty repair and also will do out-of-warranty work.
post #8236 of 8492
Thank you... I sent the Unit directly to Panasonic.

rolleyes.gif
post #8237 of 8492
When you get it back, consider turning off the dynamic iris. I have mine off and I don't miss it. I find the changes in brightness distracting and I don't see that it adds that much to the contrast.
post #8238 of 8492
The Pro8100 had that problem initially and ViewSonic put out a firmware fix for it.
post #8239 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by 73shark View Post

The Pro8100 had that problem initially and ViewSonic put out a firmware fix for it.

:S
post #8240 of 8492
Hey Guys,

I bought an AE4000 about two years ago, managed to use it for about 3 months and then kept in the office while I renovated my theater for about a year. Now I go to install it and the fan noise seems to be louder than I remember it. I measured it with my dB meter and I'm averaging about 45db's in ECO Mode. Is this normal?

I went into the service menu and checked out the stats, everything seems to be fine except for the fact that my Lamp OK is in RED. I only have about 300hours and it never overheated on me. I'm wondering if I really picky in terms of sound, but Im pretty sure it is supposed to be much quieter than 45db's?
post #8241 of 8492
"Renovation"= invisible dust in the room that clogs the air filter quickly. Have you been cleaning your 4000's air filter every 100 hours, as they recommend? A clogged air filter can cause heat build up and high fan rpms.
post #8242 of 8492
I knew you would say that..lol The first thing I did when I got home tonight was vacuum the filter, but no dice. That fan exactly where the filter is, is really loud...It doesn;t heat up either, been checking it every so often in the service menu :S

Anything else you guys can think of? I don't want to send it in for repair if there's nothing wrong with it. Everything works, the only thing is the fan is bothering me...mad.gif
post #8243 of 8492
Is your SPL meter a dedicated one or just an app you run on your cell phone? What is the A-wtd SPL AT YOUR SEATED LISTENING POSITION and is it much louder than the ambient room noise due to furnace/AC/DVD player/DVR hard drive etc?
post #8244 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

Is your SPL meter a dedicated one or just an app you run on your cell phone? What is the A-wtd SPL AT YOUR SEATED LISTENING POSITION and is it much louder than the ambient room noise due to furnace/AC/DVD player/DVR hard drive etc?

I'm using a Triplett DB Meter (not the greatest one in the world but better than the iPhone ones). Link Below...

http://triplett.com/products/specialty-testers/detail/7-specialty-testers/flypage/118-sonichek-mc?sef=hcfp

From seating position I measure roughly 35-40db's. I have all my gear in a dedicated room in a sound proof room. I don't hear a peep from my gear room. I literally only have me and the projector in the room. I wish I had an HVAC System but I don't frown.gif
post #8245 of 8492
A room that quiet is quite good, especially if you live near other people and are above ground level. I suspect your unusually quiet environment makes you more sensitive to the 4000's noise because there is nothing else to mask it. I suspect it is normal.

I don't know much about that particular SPL meter, but often ones that can take really loud measurements, like 130 dB SPL (as it states), aren't always the most accurate at the quiet levels, which is how you are using it. I'm not suggesting you should go buy another one but just take its readings with a grain of salt. If they are quite consistent from day to day, then at least you can safely assume it may not be absolutely accurate to a reference level, however it is accurate enough to itself from other readings, so you can use it to further attempt to reduce your noise [if you REALLY can't live with it as it now is].

Further steps to reduce the noise would be to coat all the reflective surfaces near the pj (ceiling and rear wall mostly) with sound absorbing material,( like 1" or thicker sheets of rigid fiberglass encased in cloth, as one example that's inexpensive) or if you really want to go wild build the 4000 a "hush box", which is akin to those Plexiglass boxes they put around blenders in some juice bars (but with its own dedicated ventilation system).
post #8246 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

A room that quiet is quite good, especially if you live near other people and are above ground level. I suspect your unusually quiet environment makes you more sensitive to the 4000's noise because there is nothing else to mask it. I suspect it is normal.
I don't know much about that particular SPL meter, but often ones that can take really loud measurements, like 130 dB SPL (as it states), aren't always the most accurate at the quiet levels, which is how you are using it. I'm not suggesting you should go buy another one but just take its readings with a grain of salt. If they are quite consistent from day to day, then at least you can safely assume it may not be absolutely accurate to a reference level, however it is accurate enough to itself from other readings, so you can use it to further attempt to reduce your noise [if you REALLY can't live with it as it now is].
Further steps to reduce the noise would be to coat all the reflective surfaces near the pj (ceiling and rear wall mostly) with sound absorbing material,( like 1" or thicker sheets of rigid fiberglass encased in cloth, as one example that's inexpensive) or if you really want to go wild build the 4000 a "hush box", which is akin to those Plexiglass boxes they put around blenders in some juice bars (but with its own dedicated ventilation system).

Thanks for the info.

I think what I'm worried about is the fact that the fan noise is abnormal. I swear hooking it up the first time and it being almost silent (as many have mentioned on this thread). I actually played around with it yesterday and it is louder than I remember. I just hope as you mentioned, I didn't get any dust in there past the dust filter to screw something up. If that's how it sounds, I live with it, but if it's not normal, than it will bother the crap out of me...lol

I'm gonna try calling my local repair center and see how much they will charge to take a look at it to make sure everything is up to par with it (depending how much they will charge of course).


EDIT: Just called and it would cost me 63$ tax in to get it checked out...???? Dont know what to do...
Edited by VinnyS - 10/10/12 at 6:05am
post #8247 of 8492
Sorry, I see your dilemma. The only thing I can think of is to intentionally run it at fullest speed possible for a night of viewing. (get out of eco mode and set it to manual high speed, or I forget, do they call that "high altitude" these days?). This will make the fan bearings vibrate as much as possible and also heat them up as much as possible to hopefully redistribute the lubricant/oil more evenly, which may solve the noise problem. Just a thoiught, no guarantee, but it is "free". Good luck.
post #8248 of 8492
Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

Sorry, I see your dilemma. The only thing I can think of is to intentionally run it at fullest speed possible for a night of viewing. (get out of eco mode and set it to manual high speed, or I forget, do they call that "high altitude" these days?). This will make the fan bearings vibrate as much as possible and also heat them up as much as possible to hopefully redistribute the lubricant/oil more evenly, which may solve the noise problem. Just a thoiught, no guarantee, but it is "free". Good luck.

Thanks buddy, will try that tonight when I get home smile.gif
post #8249 of 8492
fwiw, the fan noise at my seating position i have seen as low as 43db, about 3 ft from the projector.

i also have noticed that many things effect the fan speed. changing from color1, to dynamic will change the fan speed, as will eco to normal. the loudest i have ever heard the fan was while in dynamic mode with high altitude mode and normal mode on. it is one of the noisiest things in my room on that setting.
post #8250 of 8492
I know this thread's an "oldie but a goodie"... but I'm finally nearing the point where I'll be replacing the bulb on my beloved Panny 4000. In all the projector's I've previously owned, I've upgraded before changing bulb (from Panny 900 to 1000 to 4000)... so this will be a first for me, changing a bulb.

My big question: should I be prepared to completely re-calibrate after the bulb change? Seems like a new bulb will have different levels of red, or run cooler when it's new. Do most people calibrate from scratch, as if it's a new projector?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP › Panasonic PT-AE4000 MSRP $1999