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Have you seen a sub set up like this? Can it work?

post #1 of 24
Thread Starter 
I want to take 2 sealed sonos, each with 5" legs and .75" edf bases and turn one upside down and place the other on top of it. DIAGRAM BELOW

This would leave the bottom sub about 2.5 feet off the ground, then the 5 inch legs of one and its base going into the base of the other followed up its 5 inch legs. The two woofers would be about 1 foot apart aimed at each other.

To keep the two bases from sliding apart with vibration I would use some sort of rubber matt or feet.

Will this cause cancellation?

Would it be better to stack them both facing down (one into floor, one into the other)

NOTE: They are already built just need help aligning them.

LL
post #2 of 24
May I ask why? I would flip them over for the dual opposed design. The subs are pretty stable without securing them. I have had mine for a long time like that with no movement and I shake the room violently.
post #3 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

May I ask why? I would flip them over for the dual opposed design. The subs are pretty stable without securing them. I have had mine for a long time like that with no movement and I shake the room violently.

I read his post and I was thinking about your set up even before I scrolled down and saw that you had posted. I agree with you. If you are going to stack, then place one up side down on top of the down firing sub.
post #4 of 24
Thread Starter 
Mine WILL NOT be stable ha.

I had a permanent port flair attached to the port hole, I had to cover it. The vinyl and plywood I used are over a flair that has a lip outside the tube. All this combined and you are left with 2 squares of slightly curved plywood meeting in the middle. they can be pushed a bit and dont fall but they wont sit flush, dont line up in the center (dont form a perfect cylinder) and look ugly with the gap in the middle.

I really dont want to stick them together permanently to make it stable.
post #5 of 24
Can you take a pic? These had a port and then you sealed it up? Did you remove the port or just cover the hole? Personally I would just put a new sealed endcap on there. If that is not possible and they won't be stable then just run them both downfiring. Maybe you can spread them across the front stage for a nice frequency response, or colocate them.
post #6 of 24
Thread Starter 
They absolutely have to be stacked and I can't o[erate a saw to make a circle - They are build with the port flair still in the hole and plugged up.

I can take a picture tomorrow. Really It is more the look of it. The plywood/flair/plug back to back create about a 1 or2 inch gap that you can see 2 big ugly squares in that dont match the way the subs are designed.
post #7 of 24
Thread Starter 
Here are picture of the challenge I an facing - The photos show the plywood MUCH clearer than it is in person because of the flash but it does not show how the do not sit flush to each other because of a gentle curve to each.

Would some form of rubber anti-fatigue or anti-vibration mat offset some of this and keep them from shifting over time?
LL
LL
LL
post #8 of 24
In that configuration where are the drivers facing? They look more stable than mine.
post #9 of 24
Thread Starter 
Those are the pointing up and down (ceiling/floor)

If you look at the close up the two ugly plywood pieces are not flat. I was thinking some sort of rubber sheet in between like a fatigue mat for friction
post #10 of 24
goonstopher - look at this thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1183796. This might be what you are looking for.

Bill
post #11 of 24
Looks pretty good like that. Now all you need to do is wrap it in black duct tape to hide the plywood and you're set. Maybe throw a piece of rubber mat (maybe a chopped up Yoga mat if you can't find anything else?) in between if they're really not very stable.
post #12 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by goonstopher View Post

Those are the pointing up and down (ceiling/floor)

If you look at the close up the two ugly plywood pieces are not flat. I was thinking some sort of rubber sheet in between like a fatigue mat for friction

Can you just put something around them that overlaps both subs? Even a rubber sleeve or something, they won't move. Mine are just lying on top of each other and trust me my feet are not level. Even with them not level and just on top of each other they don't move and their is lots of vibrations going on.
post #13 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsoko2 View Post

goonstopher - look at this thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1183796. This might be what you are looking for.

Bill

Sorry if I took it wrong, are you telling me to throw in the towel? ha
post #14 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

Can you just put something around them that overlaps both subs? Even a rubber sleeve or something, they won't move. Mine are just lying on top of each other and trust me my feet are not level. Even with them not level and just on top of each other they don't move and their is lots of vibrations going on.

Because of the shadows you dont see the plywood TOO much.

I have a couple ideas:

1. put a thin rubber on each piece of woode then paint the edges so everything is black

2. Go to a car show and find some black faux leather/ faux chrome thing and put it around.

I want to avoid anything too bright because I planned to keep it black and Rosenut. My gf stained rosenut trim to put around the top and bottom seams to cover the glue and add a pop of color.
post #15 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

Can you just put something around them that overlaps both subs? Even a rubber sleeve or something, they won't move. Mine are just lying on top of each other and trust me my feet are not level. Even with them not level and just on top of each other they don't move and their is lots of vibrations going on.

Looking at the second picture closely it looks like the plywood on each one has a bit of a convex curve to it. If that's the case the one on top would get knocked off pretty easily if bumped.
post #16 of 24
Thread Starter 
Also take into account I will be adding 6 more inches to the top. I am still going to use the legs and base provided but will find 1/2" longer hex screws and have the floor plate inverted so you see the gloss pain at eye level.

I will post pics of that but just seeing if the additional top weight matters.,
post #17 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lennon_68 View Post

Looking at the second picture closely it looks like the plywood on each one has a bit of a convex curve to it. If that's the case the one on top would get knocked off pretty easily if bumped.

Yes as I tried to explain above. My ineptitude lead to some sacrifices being made.

when you push the top one it wabbles but it would take an effort to push it off. I am worried about slow vibration over time, as you know it can just hit a breaking point and go sliding off
post #18 of 24
Thread Starter 
Here is the super close up.

Notice the slight curve AND how they don't line up left/right. I had planned on gluing it together but I realized that working on it in the future would be too hard and I could never separate them if I got a bigger room
LL
post #19 of 24
Yeh, Tidal Audio makes a subwoofer like you are talking about:




But there's a much easier way to solve your problem. Lowes sells small circular table tops. You can get them in sizes from 12" - 36" or more. Perfectly round and routered edges. And they are very cheap, like $9 for the 12" and $12 for the 18". Take off the plywood you used and replace it with the nice table tops from Lowes. If it's not perfectly level, just put adjustable feet on one of the round pieces you buy. Or just shim it up.
post #20 of 24
Thread Starter 
The plywood has multiple layers on pl premium and wood screws plus it plugs a 12" port hole - there is no way to remove it.
post #21 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by goonstopher View Post

The plywood has multiple layers on pl premium and wood screws plus it plugs a 12" port hole - there is no way to remove it.

Nah, there's always a way sir, it's just wood. Unscrew the screws and pry it off. You can still plug the ports later. That pl premium isn't that hard to remove. A big screw driver and hammer will take it off.
post #22 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Nah, there's always a way sir, it's just wood. Unscrew the screws and pry it off. You can still plug the ports later. That pl premium isn't that hard to remove. A big screw driver and hammer will take it off.

Aesthetics are not worth that. I have ZERO handy skill, I didn't cut any of the wood ect.
post #23 of 24
Seems like that would be much easier than the original idea though, not just for looks.

You should put your location in your profile, maybe someone lives close enough to help out.
post #24 of 24
Thread Starter 
What about the idea with rubber or maybe some rubber feet on the board?

I jsut want to make it stable - I can fix the look of it in a number of ways Actually separating them just a bit with some isolator feet might be cool looking if done right.
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AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Have you seen a sub set up like this? Can it work?