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JTR Captivator - Page 125

post #3721 of 4725
ha... that's funny.

We could start a collection! I'd buy one to see it done.

Price of attendance is committing to purchase and loaning one monoprice 12" sub to the contest.

Then with a couple forum donations we could realistically have about 20 of them to play with. biggrin.gif

My money would still clearly be on the Captivator. Even with 20 of them there would be no additional gain effect below port tune (so likely not much below 30hz), and the co-located spl increase diminishes quick after about eight I think.

Still it'd be fun!

We could even take advantage of monoprice multiples pricing... wink.gif
post #3722 of 4725
would have been better to have gotten 20 v1220s when walmart had them for $88.
post #3723 of 4725
After a couple of movies all I can say is WOW.
Incredible slam and pressure yet very articulate.
Watching is so much more involving , a new level of experiencing bass and LFE.
Makes me wanna go through my entire collection again.
post #3724 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by staaled View Post

After a couple of movies all I can say is WOW.
Incredible slam and pressure yet very articulate.
Watching is so much more involving , a new level of experiencing bass and LFE.
Makes me wanna go through my entire collection again.

Told you tongue.gif

Next up is testing how loud you can drive them (louder than you can stand), after that comes installing a house curve, after that comes how loud can you can drive them with the house curve.. I haven't found the limits of mine yet, so I'm not sure what comes after that smile.gifeek.gif
post #3725 of 4725
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimVG View Post

Told you tongue.gif
Next up is testing how loud you can drive them (louder than you can stand), after that comes installing a house curve, after that comes how loud can you can drive them with the house curve.. I haven't found the limits of mine yet, so I'm not sure what comes after that smile.gifeek.gif

Structural damage ... tongue.gif
post #3726 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Structural damage ... tongue.gif
biggrin.gif
lift off....tongue.gif
Edited by staaled - 7/13/12 at 12:42am
post #3727 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimVG View Post

Told you tongue.gif
Next up is testing how loud you can drive them (louder than you can stand), after that comes installing a house curve, after that comes how loud can you can drive them with the house curve.. I haven't found the limits of mine yet, so I'm not sure what comes after that smile.gifeek.gif

More JTR's.cool.gif

Still got the dip 32-42 Hz and am reconsidering what I said earlier.rolleyes.gif
A extra Cap S(2) will fit the one location I have left in my room. (the vented is too deep)
But first I'll try this spot with my petite BK .biggrin.gif
post #3728 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by staaled View Post

More JTR's.cool.gif
Still got the dip 32-42 Hz and am reconsidering what I said earlier.rolleyes.gif
A extra Cap S(2) will fit the one location I have left in my room. (the vented is too deep)
But first I'll try this spot with my petite BK .biggrin.gif

No chance that you can move around some furniture? What seems to work for a lot of people is one sub in front, and one on a side wall. An extra cap S could work, but it' going to be difficult because of phase issues around tuning of the regular caps.
post #3729 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimVG View Post

No chance that you can move around some furniture? What seems to work for a lot of people is one sub in front, and one on a side wall. An extra cap S could work, but it' going to be difficult because of phase issues around tuning of the regular caps.

Sadly ,no.

I am aiming to avoid this by letting an "S" do the work in a narrow band, let's say 30 - 45 Hz, so it just fills the dip.
Current tuning of the Caps is 15 Hz so I should avoid major interference.
I know ..........it's a bit of a waste of such a great sub and a little decadent, but the more the merrier :
http://www.usingenglish.com/reference/idioms/the+more+the+merrier.html wink.gif
post #3730 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by staaled View Post

Sadly ,no.
I am aiming to avoid this by letting an "S" do the work in a narrow band, let's say 30 - 45 Hz, so it just fills the dip.
Current tuning of the Caps is 15 Hz so I should avoid major interference.
I know ..........it's a bit of a waste of such a great sub and a little decadent, but the more the merrier :
http://www.usingenglish.com/reference/idioms/the+more+the+merrier.html wink.gif

Another option is applying a HPF to the capS to match the natural response of the normal caps, this would cause a phase shift similar to that of a ported sub (if I'm not mistaken).. but you should only of course try that if the result isn't satisfying, with a bit of luck you'll solve that dip and gain a good amount of subsonic performance cool.gif
post #3731 of 4725
Jeff,

I want to thank you. Nearly a year after purchasing these JTR Captivators I still LOVE them. I'm cranking them right now to some pandora and just relaxing after an especially crappy day of work. The family is out right now --- so they are pounding. It's just what I need. cool.gif

EXCELLENT, EXCELLENT, EXCELLENT product.
post #3732 of 4725
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

Jeff,
I want to thank you. Nearly a year after purchasing these JTR Captivators I still LOVE them. I'm cranking them right now to some pandora and just relaxing after an especially crappy day of work. The family is out right now --- so they are pounding. It's just what I need. cool.gif
EXCELLENT, EXCELLENT, EXCELLENT product.

Well put Archaea. It's nice that you are giving well deserved kudos to a hard working honest guy like Jeff. This is the longest I have kept a product (over 3 years now). I was a habitual upgrader before JTR but I never feel the need to upgrade now and if I did, it would probably be something Jeff built. Every time I fire up the system for a movie, concert or just some music I feel very lucky to have this amazing HT. cool.gif
post #3733 of 4725
I haven't had my JTR stuff as long as you guys but I plan to. I am still getting more out of them as I improve my room acoustics. We had a party the other night and listening to two channel music with the 12's and subs was awesome. I am not a huge Journey fan but when it came on the girls all wanted it loud and the voicing is just incredible. The only upgrade I plan is buying more JTR!
post #3734 of 4725
I'm new to forum, so I need your guys' help. I hope I'm posting in the right spot . Anyways, I'm looking to buy one of these Goliath's and I'm having a pretty hard time getting a hold of JTR. I've sent them emails weeks ago without a reply. I just called them yesterday only to be greeted by the answering machine. So I figured I'd join this forum! I do all of my research here anyways so why not! biggrin.gif I know how much the standard finish captivator costs, but I'm trying to figure out how much in addition the cost the black oak veneer will be. Mastermaybe's sub is exactly what I'm after since the finish will match my Polk RTIA9's. The sub obviously will ship from the Great Lakes area and I live in Kansas so shipping is around $140.00 +/-. I just need the veneer cost so I know how much total I need to get one of these subs. Furthermore, since I'm here, this thing will be replacing a JBL S120PII that I've had for years. Oddly enough my father wants the JBL when I pull the trigger on the Cap. I'm open to any and all advice from you guys so here we go; bare with me as I'm not as skilled as most of you when it come to the super technical aspect(s) of calibrating so that will have to wait until the Cap is in the house.

This thing will be downstairs in the basement. The room is basically a 35x20x7.5 rectangle which nets me 5,250 cubic feet to fill. Now the JBL does an OK job at this, but I have to run it hot with the gain up almost all of the way to get anything out of it in this room with it set to 50 hz on the dial. Again im just starting to read as much as I can to understand how you guys calibrate subs. In smaller sized rooms that it's been in in the past the JBL does fine. Will the Cap do a better job of filling up the basement? I have a Pioneer Elite VSX-53, and I have ran the automated calibration which the fronts, center, surrounds, and surround back speakers sound great. I have done a manual eq tune and like in previous threads a person can adjust the settings so that the speakers will sound better. . . I have noticed that. I listen more to movies than I do music. Either way it sounds like the Captivator will do well with whatever is thrown at it. It's just the low end is where I'm lacking and I hope the Captivator will make a noticeable difference. I'm pretty darn sure it will, so I'm anxious to get this thing. Any input from you guys would be a big help to me. I know I'll have more questions later, but I need to figure out how much this thing will cost first! rolleyes.gif If anyone has purchased one of these with the veneer what was the additional cost????
post #3735 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by MakeItLouder View Post

I'm new to forum, so I need your guys' help. I hope I'm posting in the right spot . Anyways, I'm looking to buy one of these Goliath's and I'm having a pretty hard time getting a hold of JTR. I've sent them emails weeks ago without a reply. I just called them yesterday only to be greeted by the answering machine. So I figured I'd join this forum! I do all of my research here anyways so why not! biggrin.gif I know how much the standard finish captivator costs, but I'm trying to figure out how much in addition the cost the black oak veneer will be. Mastermaybe's sub is exactly what I'm after since the finish will match my Polk RTIA9's. The sub obviously will ship from the Great Lakes area and I live in Kansas so shipping is around $140.00 +/-. I just need the veneer cost so I know how much total I need to get one of these subs. Furthermore, since I'm here, this thing will be replacing a JBL S120PII that I've had for years. Oddly enough my father wants the JBL when I pull the trigger on the Cap. I'm open to any and all advice from you guys so here we go; bare with me as I'm not as skilled as most of you when it come to the super technical aspect(s) of calibrating so that will have to wait until the Cap is in the house.
This thing will be downstairs in the basement. The room is basically a 35x20x7.5 rectangle which nets me 5,250 cubic feet to fill. Now the JBL does an OK job at this, but I have to run it hot with the gain up almost all of the way to get anything out of it in this room with it set to 50 hz on the dial. Again im just starting to read as much as I can to understand how you guys calibrate subs. In smaller sized rooms that it's been in in the past the JBL does fine. Will the Cap do a better job of filling up the basement? I have a Pioneer Elite VSX-53, and I have ran the automated calibration which the fronts, center, surrounds, and surround back speakers sound great. I have done a manual eq tune and like in previous threads a person can adjust the settings so that the speakers will sound better. . . I have noticed that. I listen more to movies than I do music. Either way it sounds like the Captivator will do well with whatever is thrown at it. It's just the low end is where I'm lacking and I hope the Captivator will make a noticeable difference. I'm pretty darn sure it will, so I'm anxious to get this thing. Any input from you guys would be a big help to me. I know I'll have more questions later, but I need to figure out how much this thing will cost first! rolleyes.gif If anyone has purchased one of these with the veneer what was the additional cost????

Be persistent with trying to reach JTR because sometimes Jeff can be hard to get a hold of. The Captivator is worth the effort. wink.gif
post #3736 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

Jeff,
I want to thank you. Nearly a year after purchasing these JTR Captivators I still LOVE them. I'm cranking them right now to some pandora and just relaxing after an especially crappy day of work. The family is out right now --- so they are pounding. It's just what I need. cool.gif
EXCELLENT, EXCELLENT, EXCELLENT product.

Like others in this very exclusive club, I couldn't agree more! I haven't put much time on my 2011 Passive Captivator recently because I've been out of town a lot this summer, plus last semester kicked my butt, yet this thing is STILL phenomenal. It is extremely hard to beat the absolutely massive clean output this sub produces from 20hz on up. It's been a real treat to own such a bulletproof product, and Jeff should be commended on overdelivering in spades on his entire line!

Sadly, I think I'm going to sell my Cap. The lure of the last three octaves is too enticing, since I now know what I'm missing after hearing Submersives and other sealed DIY builds. That doesn't mean the Captivator is lacking in any way as a ported design - it's the pinnacle of ID ported subs, without a doubt.

To MakeItLouder: you'll have no problems with that Captivator walking all over your old JBL sub. It will be unquestionably LOADS better across the entire bandwidth. You'll feel like you've never had a sub before. I guarantee it!
post #3737 of 4725
F n A! Thanks guys! Now i need to call Jeff back. He called while im at work. Second shift blahaaaaaa! MAN I cant wait to get this thing. Jeff said the black oak veneer is $300 additional in case others were wondering.
post #3738 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

Jeff,
I want to thank you. Nearly a year after purchasing these JTR Captivators I still LOVE them. I'm cranking them right now to some pandora and just relaxing after an especially crappy day of work. The family is out right now --- so they are pounding. It's just what I need. cool.gif
EXCELLENT, EXCELLENT, EXCELLENT product.
I couldn't agree with you more. I have about 6months with the cap and it's so much fun to listen to. My fam was away this pass weekend and I was cranking the cap and it sounds so good. Im going to me moving soon so, it's going to be exciting getting the cap interegrated in the new place. The new place is alot bigger and might need another one!
post #3739 of 4725
Hey guys,

I stumbled upon this tonight on the musician's friend website.

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-audio/cerwin-vega-cv-5000-high-performance-professional-power-amplifier


For those who missed the Crown xls5000 deal at uniquesquared.com for $600 - this Cerwin Vega has pretty much identical specs and with the 15% off coupon it is $680. FWIW - All reviews for this CV line of amps on musicians friend regardless of power rating are 5 stars.
post #3740 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

Hey guys,
I stumbled upon this tonight on the musician's friend website.
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-audio/cerwin-vega-cv-5000-high-performance-professional-power-amplifier
For those who missed the Crown xls5000 deal at uniquesquared.com for $600 - this Cerwin Vega has pretty much identical specs and with the 15% off coupon it is $680. FWIW - All reviews for this CV line of amps on musicians friend regardless of power rating are 5 stars.

Thanks!!

I'll have to keep those in mind, if I develop the desire for more power biggrin.gif

I'm still sooooo tempted to go ahead and get a pair of Orbit Shifters anyway, even though I'm good in the bass department now........
post #3741 of 4725
Hey all, I'm looking at ordering a pair of passive dual caps soon.. It seems like the forum amp choice for the duals is a Crown XLS5000. Are there any other amp suggestions I should look at, and if I'm using MultEQ XT do I need DSP processing? I plan on stepping up to XT32 at some point.
post #3742 of 4725
yes you need a high pass filter at the caps tuning frequency with an amp as poweful as you are considering. If you were going to buy an amp like the EP4000, you won't need a HPF from my experience - I never once bottomed out the caps on the EP4000, but I can begin to do it on the XLS-5000 if I don't have a HPF and listen to some of the typically recommended ULF movie clips.

Audysssey won't implement a HPF. Audyssey multi eq XT will otherwise tune your subs frequency response fairly decently. use a single sub output split to both subs for the most probable positive results. (assuming the subs are placed equidistant from the main listening position).

I don't know where you can find a Crown XLS-5000 for a reasonable price anymore. They were on sale at uniquesquared for $600, but they are discotinued and I've inquired fo unique squared and they won't be getting any more. Otherwise I only see them for $1000 + range.

An alternative is the very similar spec'ed Cerwin Vega CV-5000, 83lb 5000 watt amp from guitarcenter for sale at $800 with an additional $100 off sitewide coupon (of purchases of $599 or more) making the final price not much more than the Crown XLS-5000 deal. If you have Jeff wire the caps to 2 ohm you will be feeding them both 2500 watts peak which is a good matchup. (same as the Crown XLS-5000)
http://www.guitarcenter.com/Cerwin-Vega-CV-5000-High-Performance-Professional-Power-Amplifier-H69833-i1688723.gc


I use and like a Behringer Mic2200 as my HPF and 2 band parametric EQ.
http://www.guitarcenter.com/Behringer-ULTRAGAIN-PRO-MIC2200-101203354-i1125194.gc
It costs $89 at guitarcenter right now with the $20 off $100 special.
Edited by Archaea - 8/18/12 at 9:25am
post #3743 of 4725
Archaea,

Thanks for the prompt reply!

Would getting two separate Inuke's be a better option than the CV 5000 amp?
The Inuke's would be a tad cheaper with the DSP option?
post #3744 of 4725
Two Inuke's won't do you much better than one Inuke.

Reason being the JTR Captivator driver is a dual 4ohm voice coils sub meaning you can wire the voicecoils either to 2 or 8 ohms total resistance.

A single Inuke DSP amp can't run run a 2 ohm load bridged, but it can run a 2 ohm load in stereo or 8 ohm bridged. Stereo 2ohm gets you 1500 watts x 2, and 8ohm bridged gets you 1500 wattts x 1. So unfortunately you get pretty much the same results if you buy two InukeDSP 3000's and couple them with a pair of 8ohm Captivators, or 1 Inuke DSP and couple with with a pair of 2 ohm captivators.

Sadly the big brother Inuke DSP 6000 can't even run in 2ohm stereo nor 8ohm bridged. The Inuke DSP 6000 can run 1500watts by 2 into 8ohm stereo, and can't run anything bridged at all. So basically all Inukes are going to get you the same thing and so the only rational outcome to ordering an Inuke for these particular 2 or 8 ohm configuration options subs is to go with a single Inuke DSP 3000. If you had a four ohm sub the Inuke DSP 6000 would be fantastic.

I love the INuke DSP 3000, but it is a bit underpowered for the Captivator pair. (though it is still no slouch - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlpqBoQ1hoQ) The Crown XLS-5000 is signifcantly more powerful. (the Cerwin Vega cv-5000 would be as well).

The Inuke DSP 3000 will start clipping and actually shutting off at -4dB from reference. It did so three times during the 2012 blind audition on my captivator pair (before I had purchased the crown amp) The Crown XLS-5000 will go beyond reference by a few dB on the most demanding of ULF movie material and much higher on music. It'll never shut off, and never ramp up the fans, and never get hot. (that I've found anyway through personal experience).

I'd keep an eye out on the Peavy IPR 7500, but at current it is vaporware. It is going to support 3750 watts x 2 into 2 ohm. When it comes out I might be picking one up. I LOVE these new DSPs, they make short work of realtime eq'ing with something like the omnimic. The IPR series amps are better than the Inuke series, but the IPR3000 isn't going to best these old battle tank 5000 watt amps either --- The IPR 7500 should however.

If I had to choose between the Inuke DSP 3000 and a EP4000, I'd recommend the Inuke DSP 3000 everytime. I've had two EP4000, units, and the INuke is pretty similar in power capability (with a slight edge to the EP4000) but the Inuke DSP just flat out rocks and more than makes up for a slight power shortage. However, the Crown XLS-5000 is in a whole other league as far as true power output. If you want the extra headroom to take the caps to their full potential you need something like the crown or the cerwin vega. --- 5000 watts or so. 2500 x2. It's more than just 3dB in this case, because the crown xls-5000 rating seems to be more realworld wattage figures than the Inuke or behringer amps. For example I've blown up an EP4000 amp pushing it too hard into two ohms on my cap pair. It died. it got hot, fans went into overdrive, and it died (silent low CFM fan mod likely responsible for the loss). The cap pair didn't need a HPF, and never bottomed out on the EP4000 on any material I ever played or demoed including all the WOW, FOTP, KFP, IM, Hulk, movie clips etc. I engaged the Crown XLS-5000 on sub duty and it can bottom out the cap driver on these same clips, thus I do need to engage a HPF, which protects the driver below port tune. The crown will give quite a bit more volume up to reference with the subs a few dB hot fairly easily. Gorilla83 took a video showing his XLS-5000 put out about 5-7dB more than his EP4000. The wattage numbers on paper don't show that to be possible, but his SPL meter did, and I've experienced similar. When you are talking 5dB more at max volume that's VERY significant. Almost a doubling of sound. So I'd recommend the Cerwin Vega, or Crown XLS-5000 over the Inuke DSP3000 for the Cap pair. Do plan on buying an HPF, like the MIC2200. For $80-$90 it's cheap, (about $50 on ebay used) and it works great as a two band parametric EQ to help tailor the sound a bit to your room. (assuming you have something to measure with.)
Edited by Archaea - 8/18/12 at 11:05am
post #3745 of 4725
What a thorough response! Thanks!

The CV looks to be the way to go!
post #3746 of 4725
FWIW, I agree with Archaea.

If you will be cranking them to extreme levels, wou WILL need a dedicated 20A circuit. I had to run multiple dedicated circuits.
post #3747 of 4725
Archeae

After looking at it some more, I might end up having to go the single Cap route with an upgrade path to the dials.
In that case would the single 4 ohm DVC Cap work with the CV5000? Can I run the 2ohm load off one of the Cv5000 channels alo
post #3748 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by redfive View Post

Archeae
After looking at it some more, I might end up having to go the single Cap route with an upgrade path to the dials.
In that case would the single 4 ohm DVC Cap work with the CV5000? Can I run the 2ohm load off one of the Cv5000 channels alo

If you're going to run a single cap for a while, have it wired for 8 ohms and then you can bridge the CV5000. This should give you some very substantial output! biggrin.gif
post #3749 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

If you're going to run a single cap for a while, have it wired for 8 ohms and then you can bridge the CV5000. This should give you some very substantial output! biggrin.gif

I had thought about that but will me re-wiring it for 2 ohm affect the warranty when I add the other sub down the line. Thesns
e are probably questions for Jeff.
post #3750 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by redfive View Post

I had thought about that but will me re-wiring it for 2 ohm affect the warranty when I add the other sub down the line. Thesns
e are probably questions for Jeff.

Won't affect the warranty. If/when you have to change the internal wiring, I'd call Jeff for the step-by-step, just to be sure you're doing it as Jeff would even if you know what you are doing. That way, there's no doubt. I could trust myself to reconfigure mine, but would still call Jeff if I had to do it.
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