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JTR Captivator - Page 140

post #4171 of 4725
I'll try all of this in the next 15 min (wife wanted cold stone). I have a Yamaha rx-v765. FWIW, when I had my Empire, the none of this was ever an issue.
post #4172 of 4725
OK, found the problem with music (THANK GOD). I guess when I switched the Empire for the Cap, it changed all the parameters on my AVR (speakers set to large, crossover at 60). I have since changed everything back (LCR at small and crossover at 80hz). I also re-calibrated my speakers to 75db using my rat shack digital meter and the Cap at 80db. This put the Cap at +3.5db on the AVR with this setting on the EP4000



I dont know if this is right, but at this setting, I cant get past -20 on my AVR during the Jericho scene in Ironman without all the windows shaking. I am about to start up with some various kinds of music for my impressions.

Archaea, I got your digits and may call you later if I have any more issues.
post #4173 of 4725
ratm,

please look at the dip switches on the back of the EP4000 and read off which directions you have them.
This is important and OFTEN wrong.

Futhermore,
The gain on the amp should typically be maxed out on channel 1, and the gain on channel 2 should be on minimum assuming your are bridging a single eight ohm sub.
Then you AVR sub volume will end up being in the negatives rather than the positives.

Can you take a picture of your MIC2200 and what settings are currently in use? (also which lights/functions are engaged)
post #4174 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

ratm,

please look at the dip switches on the back of the EP4000 and read off which directions you have them.
This is important and OFTEN wrong.

Futhermore,
The gain on the amp should typically be maxed out on channel 1, and the gain on channel 2 should be on minimum assuming your are bridging a single eight ohm sub.
Then you AVR sub volume will end up being in the negatives rather than the positives.

Can you take a picture of your MIC2200 and what settings are currently in use? (also which lights/functions are engaged)

Just PM'd u
post #4175 of 4725
Crap,

Epic fail on my part on texting you the pics. Here...





crappy pic on the bottom, but looks like 1,6,7,10 are ON and the rest are off. Oh and I was told it was wired for 8ohm so the amp is bridged that way.
post #4176 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post

Crap,

Epic fail on my part on texting you the pics. Here...





crappy pic on the bottom, but looks like 1,6,7,10 are ON and the rest are off. Oh and I was told it was wired for 8ohm so the amp is bridged that way.

Turn off the mic/lin

The only thing you will be using the mic2200 for is an HPF until you learn some measuring equipment like REW, or purchase some measuring equipment like omnimic
So assuming the other channel is off, that looks okay. My advice would be to lower the HPF knob a tick or 2 from exactly aligned at 20hz. If it's like mine it actually is a bit higher than rated. At 20hz mine is actually starting to cut into 20hz FR a bit. You aren't going to hurt the sub by having it at say 17 or 18. In fact you'd have a hard time hurting the sub without an HPF at all coupled with that amp - but you'll have a bit cleaner sound and much less likelyhood of port chuffing at crazy volumes with it engaged.

For your single 8ohm Captivator sub bridged on the EP4000 you will want the Channel 1 volume maxed out, and the channel 2 volume at absolute minimum. You will only be feeding input to channel 1. Channel 2 input will be left empty.

Here is a pic of what the dip switches do. This silkscreen text I snapped a pic of off my retired EP4000 - I just confirmed in the manual as well.



Input 1
1 Clip Limiter - Off or On
2 Low Cut Filter - 50hz or 30hz
3 Low Cut Filter - On or Off

4 Stereo or Parallel Inputs - doesn't matter - parallel is fine for your purposes - if parallel is used then channel 2 input actually becomes an output to daisy chain amps.
5 Stereo or Parallel Inputs - doesn't matter - parallel is fine for your purposes - if parallel is used then channel 2 input actually becomes an output to daisy chain amps.

6 Bridge Mode Off or On
7 Bridge Mode Off or On

Input 2 (doesn't really matter here cause we are using channel 1 as our single source - but why not set it up right)
8 Low Cut Filter - On or Off
9 Low Cut Filter - 50hz or 30hz
10 Clip Limiter - Off or On



So your dip switches should be
R
R
R
Doesn't Matter - right's fine
Doesn't Matter - right's fine
R
R
R
R
R


So Everything should be right on your DIP switches. As you learn more about the equipment and get more comfortable with the amp and it's limits you can turn off clip limiting (dip switch 1 and 10), which may improve dynamics slightly, but can also introduce additional distortion.

If you move to a stereo setup you would switch 4-7 to all be left.

The way you have it now is horrible. It has a HPF engaged at 50hz, meaning it is rolling off all frequencies below 50hz. If that's the way the previous owner had the sub setup - it's no wonder they sold it. That's like a DJ PA sub configuration the way it is and will do nothing terribly exciting for home theater except get loud!
Edited by Archaea - 3/2/13 at 7:44pm
post #4177 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

Turn off the mic/lin

The only thing you will be using the mic2200 for is an HPF until you learn some measuring equipment like REW, or purchase some measuring equipment like omnimic
So assuming the other channel is off, that looks okay. My advice would be to lower the HPF knob a tick or 2 from exactly aligned at 20hz. If it's like mine it actually is a bit higher than rated. At 20hz mine is actually starting to cut into 20hz FR a bit. You aren't going to hurt the sub by having it at say 17 or 18. In fact you'd have a hard time hurting the sub without an HPF at all coupled with that amp - but you'll have a bit cleaner sound and much less likelyhood of port chuffing at crazy volumes with it engaged.

For your single 8ohm Captivator sub bridged on the EP4000 you will want the Channel 1 volume maxed out, and the channel 2 volume at absolute minimum. You will only be feeding input to channel 1. Channel 2 input will be left empty.

Here is a pic of what the dip switches do. This silkscreen text I snapped a pic of off my retired EP4000 - I just confirmed in the manual as well.



Input 1
1 Clip Limiter - Off or On
2 Low Cut Filter - 50hz or 30hz
3 Low Cut Filter - On or Off

4 Stereo or Parallel Inputs - doesn't matter - parallel is fine for your purposes - if parallel is used then channel 2 input actually becomes an output to daisy chain amps.
5 Stereo or Parallel Inputs - doesn't matter - parallel is fine for your purposes - if parallel is used then channel 2 input actually becomes an output to daisy chain amps.

6 Bridge Mode Off or On
7 Bridge Mode Off or On

Input 2 (doesn't really matter here cause we are using channel 1 as our single source - but why not set it up right)
8 Low Cut Filter - On or Off
9 Low Cut Filter - 50hz or 30hz
10 Clip Limiter - Off or On



So your dip switches should be
R
R
R
Doesn't Matter - right's fine
Doesn't Matter - right's fine
R
R
R
R
R


So Everything should be right on your DIP switches. As you learn more about the equipment and get more comfortable with the amp and it's limits you can turn off clip limiting, which may improve dynamics slightly, but can also introduce additional distortion.

If you move to a stereo setup you would switch 4-7 to all be left.

The way you have it now is horrible. It has a HPF engaged at 50hz, meaning it is rolling off all frequencies below 50hz. If that's the way the previous owner had the sub setup - it's no wonder they sold it. That's like a DJ PA sub configuration the way it is and will do nothing terribly exciting for home theater except get loud!

How's this...

Mic Line off...



I think this is at 18hz, one click below 20hz, the next one is obviously 16hz.



Like this?



Oh and all of my switches are clicked to the right. After reading your pic, it makes sense and sounds MUCH better now.
Edited by ratm - 3/2/13 at 7:41pm
post #4178 of 4725
^ right knob (channel two) should be turned 100% fully counterclockwise to the - infinity label - it looks like you are at 16now -- unless your knob isn't stuck on correctly. If it isn't on right - just pull the knob off and reseat it so it is accurately displaying that you've effectively turned off channel 2.

^ left knob (channel one) should be maxed by turning fully clockwise

Then run your SPL setup again either with Audyssey or with your sound meter. Cause cranking the left knob to max is going to increase the output a lot and you'll have to back off the levels on your AVR trim for the LFE or sub channel output.
post #4179 of 4725
ratm, here's what the dip switches should look like for bridged mode:



Don't need the clip limiters.

With those settings, turn your channel 1 gain knob all the way UP (as you now have it), and your channel 2 gain knob all the way DOWN.
post #4180 of 4725
nube - that's not right for a single sub.

check out the silkscreen text in my screenprint - and confirmed in the owners manual on page 7 and 8.

what you have in your pic is
A) low cut filter on at 30hz
B) bridge mode off (stereo on)

I don't use clip limiters myself - and I expect you don't either - but I feel like greenhorns should use them until they get a bit more experience under the belt. I went to a guys house here in KC who bought carp's old dual captivators to help him setup. He's got like three posts here, bluesprings1. He had a single EP4000 for a pair of caps - fine. I did as well, and it works great, but he has an enormous room - like probably 7500 cubic foot, and his clip limiters weren't on and he had the volumes at levels that were solid red clip lights for minutes at a time on the EP4000. I know the Cap driver is an incredible piece of work and handles scads of power and so can probably escape unscathed from an unhealthy amp situation - but unless somebody knows what they are doing I think it probably a bit wise to keep the clip limiter engaged so the amp can at least try to keep the distortion out if the person doesn't know any better. ratm, if you plan to watch your clip lights and lean when they engage and learn to back off the volume when they turn solid (time to upgrade the amp if you are constantly seeing clip lights solid/dancing or flickering clip lights are just fine) - then you can turn off the clip limiter, but if your amp is in the other room, or you don't have any intention of learning the limits of the amp (when the clip lights stay on solid) then you're safer and better off with the clip limiters on, IMO. It's isn't that big of a deal, but make your call on which setting you used based on your intent to pay attention to your hardware.
Edited by Archaea - 3/2/13 at 8:05pm
post #4181 of 4725
Like this Arch?

post #4182 of 4725
beautiful!

Can you access the back of your amp to take a picture of
1) how you wired up your speaker wire (i want to make sure you bridged it correctly using the two center posts)
2) the silkscreen showing the 1-10 dip switch cheat sheet - to make sure yours aligns with what mine shows and what the manual shows.
post #4183 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

nube - that's not right for a single sub.

check out the silkscreen text in my screenprint - and confirmed in the owners manual on page 7 and 8.

what you have in your pic is
A) low cut filter on at 30hz
B) bridge mode off (stereo on)

I have it correct. I think you're seeing the switch in the opposite position. The pic is a little deceptive, but if you click on it you'll see they're in the right places. See where the shadows are above the switches? smile.gif
post #4184 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

beautiful!

Can you access the back of your amp to take a picture of
1) how you wired up your speaker wire (i want to make sure you bridged it correctly using the two center posts)
2) the silkscreen showing the 1-10 dip switch cheat sheet - to make sure yours aligns with what mine shows and what the manual shows.

It's covered.



And you were right, I had to re-adjust my levels on my AVR. I'm running -2.5db now after running +3.5 hot before.
post #4185 of 4725
Nube,

From your pic it looks like 3,6,7,8 are to the left, but everything else is to the right. Am I reading that right?

Matt
post #4186 of 4725
nube,

Not according to both the manual and the silkscreened instructions on the back of the amp. According to both of those things the On is not always on the right. (yes, it is strange)


Dip Switch Silkscreen Setup Guide Picture from back of amp


confirmed in manual - page 6, 7, and 8
http://www.behringer.com/assets/EP2000_P0A38_M_EN.pdf

My darn EP4000 cooked with a fan mod, so it doesn't work to test, or I'd whip it out and confirm with the omnimic one way or the other.
Edited by Archaea - 3/2/13 at 8:13pm
post #4187 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post


My darn EP4000 cooked with a fan mod,
so it doesn't work to test, or I'd whip it out and confirm with the omnimic one way or the other.

YIKES. That was one of my questions. I am not liking the fan noise which I know one of the inherent problems with pro-amps. Did you not get the right fan? Install it wrong?
post #4188 of 4725
I got a fan that was recommended - but I have a tendency to sometimes cut loose with the volume. It cooked in short order on me. --- like six minutes in when I was in a particularly spirited session with my fan mod. Other's haven't had any trouble. Your mileage may vary I guess.

I've kept it around with intent to someday get it fixed by a local shop. It was under warranty at the time (pretty much brand new) and I could have sent it back, but I didn't feel right about that - since I had definitely modded the fan. If a man doesn't have his integrity - he doesn't have much at all. So I just ate it.

I was running mine in 2 ohm stereo (at tough request for most amps --- meant to help a dj get through a gig if an amp fails, but not really for continual use if you ask most in the pro audio world - but by contrast usually perfectly acceptable in the home theater subwoofer duty world) You will be running yours in 8ohm bridged. Your amp won't be working nearly as hard as mine was based on the ohm workload. You should be fine with a fan mod.
Edited by Archaea - 3/2/13 at 8:53pm
post #4189 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

I got a fan that was recommended - but I have a tendency to sometimes cut loose with the volume. It cooked in short order on me. --- like six minutes in when I was in a particularly spirited session with my fan mod. Other's haven't had any trouble. Your mileage may vary I guess.

I've kept it around with intent to someday get it fixed by a local shop. It was under warranty at the time (pretty much brand new) and I could have sent it back, but I didn't feel right about that - since I had definitely modded the fan. If a man doesn't have his integrity - he doesn't have much at all. So I just ate it.

I was running mine in 2 ohm stereo (at tough request for most amps --- meant to help a dj get through a gig, but not really for continual use if you ask most in the pro audio world - but usually perfectly acceptable in the home theater subwoofer duty world) You will be running yours in 8ohm bridged. Your amp won't be working nearly as hard as mine was based on the ohm workload. You'll probably be fine with a fan mod.

I feel you. However I rarely, if ever, be able to appreciate the absolute capabilities of the Cap. 4 kids who are always fighting over the directv remote even though they each have one in their room and a wife who suffers from bad migraines probably will prohibit me from ever getting 110+dbs with the Hz in the teens. It may be beneficial for me.
post #4190 of 4725
I did the fan mod with my dual caps and beat the hell out of that amp. Clip lights solid red like it was Christmas. At first I was all paranoid about any red flickering at all, then longer red light ups didn't bother me, and then it was screw it, light it up baby!!

I could have just been lucky I don't know. I didn't do it often, but anytime I was doing a demo for someone (usually the apartment uzi shootout in Die Hard 4 - the Caps LOVE that scene) there was lots of red... and the couch moving all over the place. biggrin.gif
post #4191 of 4725
I set mine to parallel and accidentally plugged the input into 2 instead of 1 and it still worked fine for me as well. It functioned as an input not an output so there's still some grey area in that regard.

Sent via Droid
post #4192 of 4725
ratm,

I'm not sure why I see four speaker wires in your pic - are you just doubling up two wires into one for both positive and negative to effectively lower wire gauge?
post #4193 of 4725
I would also recommend against maxing out your amp gains until you know how much voltage your receiver is putting out. Most modern receivers are more than capable of putting out enough voltage to drive an amp into clipping easily.

Via Droid.
post #4194 of 4725
by maxing out the amp gain attenuators (turning channel 1 to the max on the EP4000) he will be putting less voltage into the pro amp input (as his LFE channel trim on the AVR will recess deeper into the negative range) - hence less likely to drive the EP4000 amp to signal clipping based on too much voltage in the input signal, at least in my understanding.

I know at bluesprings1 house there was a very noticable positive benefit measured with my ominmic in regards to peak dynamics by lowering the LFE trim on the AVR, and maxing the amp's output. I initially expected that it should basically come out in the wash whether you lowered the EP4000 gain and increased the AVR LFE trim, or whether you maxed the EP4000 gain and lowered the AVR LFE trim - but with his EP4000 and a pair of caps run in 2 ohm stereo with a Denon 4311, it was pretty clear based on the omnimic's dynamic peak measurements - that the prescribed method I provided to ratm was the way to go. It was something like 5dB difference in peaks towards the benefit of having the EP4000 gain attenuator maxed and a lower LFE trim. Now to your point, we DID have the clip limiters on the EP4000 engaged at that point - and as we are discussing it could be that when the AVR trim was hotter and EP4000 gain lower we were bumping up against the clip limiter in the EP4000 based on the AVR's greater output voltage.
post #4195 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

by maxing out the amp gain attenuators (turning channel 1 to the max on the EP4000) he will be putting less voltage into the pro amp input (as his LFE channel trim on the AVR will recess deeper into the negative range) - hence less likely to drive the EP4000 amp to signal clipping based on too much voltage in the input signal, at least in my understanding.

Well yes, and no. The gain knobs work by a multiplication factor based on the incoming voltage. By maxing them out you are allowing the entire voltage signal to be used. The further you back them off, the further you attenuate the signal. I'd have to look at the manual but I believe the input sensitivity is around 1.3 volts on the 4000. My Onkyo is capable of putting out that even with my sub setting in the negative range. I've also experienced in my own setup, that I cannot calibrate my sub to the proper level with the gain knobs full on. Aud will set my sub level to -12, and the sub will still be way too hot. While I'm not in danger of clipping the output or the 4000 at this point; I am still running way hotter than I should be.

You also run into the problem of not utilizing all of the amps power if running the sub out too low. Send too low a signal and you won't get full power out of the 4000 even with the gains wide open. It's a nice tap dancing routine to make sure you are setup to maximize the maximum clean output of both the receiver and amp. That probably explains the difference in SPL you saw by trying both ways. Unless you were measuring output voltage via a 0dbs signal there is no way to accurately compare both methods as the total voltage the amp saw could easily have varied between the two methods.

You need to search setting gain structure for pro amps to make sure you have everything setup properly, and you are not clipping the output on the receiver or amp. There was a nice discussion about this in the DIY audio section not to long ago that will go into more detail than I care to write tonight. biggrin.gif
Edited by bass addict - 3/2/13 at 10:42pm
post #4196 of 4725
I agree with and understand what you wrote. I've researched this too. I was going to get into the aspect of potentially not driving the amp to the fullest in my last post, but erased what I was writing because it is inapplicable here. Not applicable because it doesn't sound like that will be a problem for ratm since 80dB was -3.5 on his act sub trim with channel 1 gain maxed in bridged. Sounds like a pretty reasonable matchup in his case.
Edited by Archaea - 3/2/13 at 10:54pm
post #4197 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

ratm,

I'm not sure why I see four speaker wires in your pic - are you just doubling up two wires into one for both positive and negative to effectively lower wire gauge?

Arch,

Yes, it's just double the speaker wire. That's how I got the wire so I just used it that way. I wasn marked correctly.
post #4198 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

Turn off the mic/lin

The only thing you will be using the mic2200 for is an HPF until you learn some measuring equipment like REW, or purchase some measuring equipment like omnimic
So assuming the other channel is off, that looks okay. My advice would be to lower the HPF knob a tick or 2 from exactly aligned at 20hz. If it's like mine it actually is a bit higher than rated. At 20hz mine is actually starting to cut into 20hz FR a bit. You aren't going to hurt the sub by having it at say 17 or 18. In fact you'd have a hard time hurting the sub without an HPF at all coupled with that amp - but you'll have a bit cleaner sound and much less likelyhood of port chuffing at crazy volumes with it engaged.

For your single 8ohm Captivator sub bridged on the EP4000 you will want the Channel 1 volume maxed out, and the channel 2 volume at absolute minimum. You will only be feeding input to channel 1. Channel 2 input will be left empty.

Here is a pic of what the dip switches do. This silkscreen text I snapped a pic of off my retired EP4000 - I just confirmed in the manual as well.



Input 1
1 Clip Limiter - Off or On
2 Low Cut Filter - 50hz or 30hz
3 Low Cut Filter - On or Off

4 Stereo or Parallel Inputs - doesn't matter - parallel is fine for your purposes - if parallel is used then channel 2 input actually becomes an output to daisy chain amps.
5 Stereo or Parallel Inputs - doesn't matter - parallel is fine for your purposes - if parallel is used then channel 2 input actually becomes an output to daisy chain amps.

6 Bridge Mode Off or On
7 Bridge Mode Off or On

Input 2 (doesn't really matter here cause we are using channel 1 as our single source - but why not set it up right)
8 Low Cut Filter - On or Off
9 Low Cut Filter - 50hz or 30hz
10 Clip Limiter - Off or On



So your dip switches should be
R
R
R
Doesn't Matter - right's fine
Doesn't Matter - right's fine
R
R
R
R
R


So Everything should be right on your DIP switches. As you learn more about the equipment and get more comfortable with the amp and it's limits you can turn off clip limiting (dip switch 1 and 10), which may improve dynamics slightly, but can also introduce additional distortion.

If you move to a stereo setup you would switch 4-7 to all be left.

The way you have it now is horrible. It has a HPF engaged at 50hz, meaning it is rolling off all frequencies below 50hz. If that's the way the previous owner had the sub setup - it's no wonder they sold it. That's like a DJ PA sub configuration the way it is and will do nothing terribly exciting for home theater except get loud!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post

How's this...

Mic Line off...



I think this is at 18hz, one click below 20hz, the next one is obviously 16hz.



Like this?



Oh and all of my switches are clicked to the right. After reading your pic, it makes sense and sounds MUCH better now.

Feels like "Back to the Future" reading these recent posts as I was in the same position regarding set up. Im not going to ATTEMPT to add any pearls of wisdom to what the other more knowledgable folk have given here but...... FWIW! I am using an older Yamaha RXV992 AVR which I initially had trouble getting to send any signal to the CAP for general CD music listening (DVD's were fine). For DVD's my AVR set to "sub" is fine but for music it needs to be set as "both" (Mains and sub) to receive the proper signal. Not sure why this is but it works. Also speaker sizing to small for Mains and Rears made a huge difference. My old setup (two active subs) worked better with mains set to large although its highly possible my trials weren't exhaustive enough on small setting so possibly inconclusive.

I have also had the MIC2200 engaged for a bit now and have had some success calibrating the Parametric EQ and feel I'm getting a cleaner sound than I was before. Its a shot in the dark without the right gear but for now I definitely prefer when the EQ is on (see below my settings, let me know if you guys notice anything out of the ordinary).

MIC2200

FRONT PANEL

MIC GAIN/MIC/LINE: Off
LO CUT: On (18Hz or Port Tune)
FREQUENCY: 0.1 On (32Hz started at 45Hz but this is really a guess)
OCTAVE BANDWIDTH: On (1.8 started at around 1.6 also a guess)
LEVEL: On (+4 or+5dB I like the extra punch this gives)
OUTPUT: Set at Zero

REAR PANEL MIC2200 to EP4000

RCA to XLR (From AVR to MIC2200): Hooked up to Channel 1
1st TPS connector (From MIC2200 to EP4000): Hooked up from Output Channel 1 MIC2200 to Input 1 EP4000
2nd TPS connector (from MIC2200 to EP4000): Hooked up from Output Channel 2 MIC2200 to Input 2 EP4000

Archaea Im pretty sure this is correct (rear panel setup) but if you can see anything obvious that shouldn't be I'd appreciate any feedback. Haven't looked at display for MIC2200 whilst in running but enjoy the extra Bass coming through with the level knob slightly increased. I now feel there is a clearer bass signal and more impact after much A/B testing and am loving this bloody thing! I run my Yamaha at around -40dB (moderate listening) to -26dB (loud listening) and the CAP has been well matched as I said earlier to levels of all speakers. May change soon as Im considering adding a Rotel RMB 1075 which Im hoping will improve the detail/clarity of Mains/Centre/Rears when listening at louder volumes (but thats for another thread right......?)
post #4199 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

nube,

Not according to both the manual and the silkscreened instructions on the back of the amp. According to both of those things the On is not always on the right. (yes, it is strange)


Dip Switch Silkscreen Setup Guide Picture from back of amp


confirmed in manual - page 6, 7, and 8
http://www.behringer.com/assets/EP2000_P0A38_M_EN.pdf

My darn EP4000 cooked with a fan mod, so it doesn't work to test, or I'd whip it out and confirm with the omnimic one way or the other.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post

Nube,

From your pic it looks like 3,6,7,8 are to the left, but everything else is to the right. Am I reading that right?

Matt
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

nube - that's not right for a single sub.

check out the silkscreen text in my screenprint - and confirmed in the owners manual on page 7 and 8.

what you have in your pic is
A) low cut filter on at 30hz
B) bridge mode off (stereo on)

Nope.

In my picture 1&2, 4&5, 9&10 are in the OFF position, to the left. 3, 6, 7, 8 are in the ON position, to the right.

According to both the silkscreen on the back of the amp, and the diagram from the manual,

this means:

The clip limiter is OFF for both channels.
The low cut filter is OFF for both channels.
Bridged-mode is enabled.

I have it right, you're just seeing it backwards. As I said before, the shadow is above the dip switch, indicating its position.



See, the black line above the switch? It makes it pretty clear which position it's in.

As for clipping, with robust subs, who cares until its audible? It becomes obvious pretty quickly, and then you just turn it down and (hopefully) adjust your gain structure so it can never happen again. It can't actually damage anything in this case.

Just hoping ratm got things setup properly.
post #4200 of 4725
Well now I'm Confused as crap. I'm on duty today so I can't really play with it.
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