JTR Captivator - Page 141

I can see where there would be some confusion. In that pic it sure as hell looks to me like you have them setup just the opposite.

I'm too lazy to pull mine out and check what the switch looks like, but are you sure you have them in the right position?

Nube,

I still think your amp dip switches are jacked --- at least from the picture you've posted. That sure as heck looks like you have them opposite of what you want. I think i can see the little white nub that sits atop the dip switch to make sliding it easier and it is opposite the dark shadow. It looks like the shadow is actually the dark space behind the dip switch inside the amp casing.

If this isn't the case then your pic is really difficult to make out - even blown up on my HDTV.

What I see in your pic is
R
R
L
R
R
L
L
L
R
R

If that's truly what they are then that is not what you want for bridged mono operation. I'm with bass addict, you might want to take a look a the dip switches visually to ensure it's not just a camera trick.


Also --- did you notice that the on switch is NOT always on the right side according to both the user manual instructions and the printed silk screen on the back of the amp. Unfortunately it's not simply right = on

I checked my dips and they match what I've advised ratm to use with the exception of 4-7 (cause I used the amp in stereo mode with a pair of subs - rather than bridged with a single) and 1 and 10 because I didn't use the clip limiter either. My EP4000 was used in a subwoofer meet at 2011 HuskerOmaha meet and so measured with an expensive REW setup, and then measured with my omnimic multiple times in my room and others.

My measurements in my room with my EP4000
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1375633/ep4000-vs-inuke-dsp-3000-w-2-jtr-captivators-and-an-omnimic-which-amp-is-better

HuskerOmaha's measurements in his room with my EP4000.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1368326/subfest-2011-huskeromaha-and-desertdomes-subwoofer-showdown/30#post_21119796



Thus I know for a fact that mine was playing without the low cut filter engaged on my EP4000.
****************************************************


ratm


There's a simple test you could do to ensure your amp is playing frequencies below the optional 30hz or 50hz low cuts as it should -- even without complex measuring equipment.
Use the attached 20hz test tone.

Play the tone, measure the output with your SPL meter, and then flip switch 3, measure SPL again. If it drops spl when the switch is flipped to the left, then you do indeed need the switch to the right.

20Hz.zip 334k .zip file

Jonathan

That's the exact opposite of how they are set in the picture. Last time - the black line of shadow above the dip switches shows what position they're in.

I didn't own the Cap with the EP4K for two years, championing its many virtues, and measure it repeatedly with REW to post response graphs here showing solid 110dB output at 15hz while having it setup incorrectly with a HPF at 50hz. Especially not exactly backwards from the way it should be set. ;-)

Arch,

Check your PM's

ha, okay I'll just say then that picture is just tricky!

ratm,

you no longer need be confused.
Nube and I are on the same page if we ignore the confusing dip switch picture.

1 and 10 is just a preference - no real matter either way - I just advised a bit of caution for a self admitted novice (you) by turning it on to avoid distorted sounds encountered with clipping, but I didn't use it myself day to day as I watched the amp, and as nube correctly says - you won't be hurting the very capable cap driver (7,200 watt peak) with the EP4000 worst clipping.
2 and 9 doesn't matter if you turn off low cut - - because these should only apply if you use low cut.
3 and 8 are low cuts - flip them to the right to bypass cutting anything out of the frequency response.
4-7 are based on whether you are doing stereo or mono inputs.

---

For the purposes of ratm's single sub using channel 1 input to bridged output - either all switches to the right, or all to the right except 1 and 10.

And, in the interests of full disclosure, I no longer own the 2011 JTR Passive Captivator. It was a great sub, but it's been sold and shipped for over a month now, and I'm continuing to enjoy the bottom octaves with my 2x dual opposed 15" sealed DIY. Point being, those dip switch settings are no longer what I'm using.

Forgot to mention this...

For some reason (per the guy I bought it from), when I turn on my amp, I have to count to 5, shut it off and then turn it back on. Anyone else have to do this? I havent tried it since I changed everything you guys told me so it might not happen now.

no - that's not normal - something may be dying in the power supply. What happens if you don't do that? It doesn't turn on?

I havent left it on to try, but I think that the red clip light stays on. I will try tomorrow when I get home tomorrow AM to see what happens.

Ok, so I turned it on and it works fine. I have no idea why he told me to do that, but its ok. However, I DESPERATELY want/need to do the fan mod. It is annoying as hell. Is one better than another, or is the one you posted just fine?

BTW, did the 20hz tone. I'm leaving it on the right

How much difference was there? Did you take measurements?

Yes, Using my rat shack meter, from my listening position, I set the meter to 80db, slow, C-weighting and measured 75db. Switching #3 to the left, it measured Lo and wouldn't move.

Had some guests over to my place last night. I enjoyed the caps and the 228ht speaker setup, as well as some time visiting with some new friends for several hours. Here are some initial impressions.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1165099/official-jtr-speaker-thread/7530#post_23042429

Thats awesome. If Im ever in KC, I'll look you up.

On my S2 should I turn it off when not in use or just leave the power switch on at all times?

I leave both of my S2s on all the time with no issues so far. I thought I read in a JTR thread that someone asked Jeff about this and Jeff said leaving a JTR sub "on" all the time was fine.

Ok, thx. I've been leaving it on but just wanted to make sure. Would be a pain to have to move it to turn it off every time.

I was thinking the same thing when I got mine. It is buried behind my screen and very hard to get to. Jeff said that it uses a only a very small amount of electricity when it is not getting a signal.

Did you get switchable surge protectors for them or do you climb back there and turn them off each time? I kind of wish the amp had a 12 volt trigger or something.

I just looked at the specifications for the amp that I think Jeff uses. It says 15 watts idle power consumption. That makes me feel a little better. It is still using power, but 15 watts is less bothersome to me conceptually than a 50 watt light bulb.

My S2 is really hard to get to. I have to go into the closet, remove 2 acoustic panels and then squeeze myself behind it. It is not something that I can do each time I turn on or off the system. Maybe someone makes a IR or 12 volt controllable power switch that will pass 20 amps.

Although a more productive use of my time and money with respect to reducing my electric bill would be to replace the 50 or so 65 watt bulbs in my house with the 9 watt LED equivalents. I am doing this as they die, but if I replace 5 or 6 of them now, they could make up for the S2's idle power draw.

The light bulbs are $30 each which is why I have not replaced them all at once, but if switchable plug strip with a circuit breaker costs $60, you are right, leaving it on sounds pretty good...

I have a non switchable 20 amp surge protector that I have the S2 plugged into on it's own circuit. I think the takeaway from this conversation is that I should unplug it if it is not going to be used for a while or if we are going on vacation.

Question for you guys since we're on the subject of electrical power. Do you run your Cap, powered or passive with pro amp, on a dedicated 15-20 amp line? I am sharing mine with the rest of my dining room that who's only draw is a ceiling fan that's on pretty much whenever we're home and 4 60 watt high hats that are used about 25% of the time. I'm not sure if this is even a problem, but if it is, I wouldn't mind installing its own line (not me, but an electrician obviously). If so, what's something like that run cost wise?

New JTR owner here!

I recently refinished my basement and decided to go all JTR for the home theater. Given my budget I purchased all the speakers used. I am very happy with my current setup, but am looking for advice on the low end.

Current setup:
Fronts: 2 Triple 12 X
Center: Triple 8 HT
Surrounds: 2 Triple 8 X
Subs: 4 Growlers

Powered by:
2 Behringer 6000dsp (12x and 2 growlers per, receiving large speaker/no sub signal from Integra 80.2 and crossed using the Behringer dsp at 125Hz)
Behringer 3000 (surrounds)
Krell KSA 250 (center)

Room is 20’ x 20’ x 8’ with an opening to 10’ x 20’ x 8’

I am thinking about getting a S2 to cover 50Hz and down. Do you think the S2 will integrate into the system well? Should I worry about horn subs playing nice with the sealed sub? Should I just call it a day and be happy with 4 growlers? Or, just shut up and get the S2?

My wife already fears for the structural integrity of the house (half jokingly). Has anyone actually had structural damage from such a setup?

Any thoughts on where to cross the 12X and Growlers?

Thanks,
David

I run my S2 on a dedicated 20 amp circuit. Many people run these on non-dedicated circuits without issues.

I am not sure what the cost was because I did it in conjunction with other required electrical work. If this helps give you an idea, it cost $1700 for 3 dedicated 20 Amp circuits run to the theater and the replacement of several circuit breakers in the breaker box that had failed or were failing.