or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers › JTR Captivator
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

JTR Captivator - Page 142

post #4231 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedirun View Post

I run my S2 on a dedicated 20 amp circuit. Many people run these on non-dedicated circuits without issues.

I am not sure what the cost was because I did it in conjunction with other required electrical work. If this helps give you an idea, it cost $1700 for 3 dedicated 20 Amp circuits run to the theater and the replacement of several circuit breakers in the breaker box that had failed or were failing.

Does it matter if I rarely, if ever, will push this cap/amp to its limits?
post #4232 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post

Does it matter if I rarely, if ever, will push this cap/amp to its limits?
I would say don't worry about it unless it causes problems which is unlikely.

I did it because of the other electrical issues that I had. I have a 50 year old house and theater was on the same 20 amp circuit as the kitchen. We had a circuit blow when running a toaster oven and microwave at the same time. Running 3 dedicated circuits to the the theater meant that my equipment would not have to share a circuit with the kitchen, and have the potential of blowing the breakers.

As long as you don't have a situation like this, it probably doesn't matter.
post #4233 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedirun View Post

I would say don't worry about it unless it causes problems which is unlikely.

I did it because of the other electrical issues that I had. I have a 50 year old house and theater was on the same 20 amp circuit as the kitchen. We had a circuit blow when running a toaster oven and microwave at the same time. Running 3 dedicated circuits to the the theater meant that my equipment would not have to share a circuit with the kitchen, and have the potential of blowing the breakers.

As long as you don't have a situation like this, it probably doesn't matter.
I don't, so that's awesome.
post #4234 of 4725
Each of my S2's are running off a 20amp dedicated circuit as well. The only reason I did it because a lot of "stuff" was on the same circuit including the lights. Every time I watched a movie with a little light they would flicker. It was a cool at first but annoying after awhile :-). And I have a friend who is an electrician so it wasn't too expensive for me.
post #4235 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlbeck View Post

Each of my S2's are running off a 20amp dedicated circuit as well. The only reason I did it because a lot of "stuff" was on the same circuit including the lights. Every time I watched a movie with a little light they would flicker. It was a cool at first but annoying after awhile :-). And I have a friend who is an electrician so it wasn't too expensive for me.

I did it the same way. Since we were having the basement finished I had them run 3 lines. One for all my equipment and one for each subwoofer. Didn't know if it was overkill or not but did just because that was the best time to do it....rather not find out the hard way and then have to have an electrician come back after everything was done and set-up.
post #4236 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frohlich View Post

I did it the same way. Since we were having the basement finished I had them run 3 lines. One for all my equipment and one for each subwoofer. Didn't know if it was overkill or not but did just because that was the best time to do it....rather not find out the hard way and then have to have an electrician come back after everything was done and set-up.
It was actually my electrician who recommended it, he was also my contractor who installed my screen, so he knew what I was running and the sketchy wiring of much of the rest of the house. I figured the same thing, better to take care of it while he was already working on the breaker box than to have him come back later after there was a problem. I can just see my wife saying, "What on earth made you think you needed a 4000 watt subwoofer?"
post #4237 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

Nube,

I still think your amp dip switches are jacked --- at least from the picture you've posted. That sure as heck looks like you have them opposite of what you want. I think i can see the little white nub that sits atop the dip switch to make sliding it easier and it is opposite the dark shadow. It looks like the shadow is actually the dark space behind the dip switch inside the amp casing.

If this isn't the case then your pic is really difficult to make out - even blown up on my HDTV.

What I see in your pic is
R
R
L
R
R
L
L
L
R
R

If that's truly what they are then that is not what you want for bridged mono operation. I'm with bass addict, you might want to take a look a the dip switches visually to ensure it's not just a camera trick.


Also --- did you notice that the on switch is NOT always on the right side according to both the user manual instructions and the printed silk screen on the back of the amp. Unfortunately it's not simply right = on

I checked my dips and they match what I've advised ratm to use with the exception of 4-7 (cause I used the amp in stereo mode with a pair of subs - rather than bridged with a single) and 1 and 10 because I didn't use the clip limiter either. My EP4000 was used in a subwoofer meet at 2011 HuskerOmaha meet and so measured with an expensive REW setup, and then measured with my omnimic multiple times in my room and others.

My measurements in my room with my EP4000
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1375633/ep4000-vs-inuke-dsp-3000-w-2-jtr-captivators-and-an-omnimic-which-amp-is-better

HuskerOmaha's measurements in his room with my EP4000.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1368326/subfest-2011-huskeromaha-and-desertdomes-subwoofer-showdown/30#post_21119796



Thus I know for a fact that mine was playing without the low cut filter engaged on my EP4000.
****************************************************


ratm


There's a simple test you could do to ensure your amp is playing frequencies below the optional 30hz or 50hz low cuts as it should -- even without complex measuring equipment.
Use the attached 20hz test tone.

Play the tone, measure the output with your SPL meter, and then flip switch 3, measure SPL again. If it drops spl when the switch is flipped to the left, then you do indeed need the switch to the right.

20Hz.zip 334k .zip file

Hey guys

Just copied the 20Hz settings from the link above where the "Behringer ep4000 is compared to the Inuke 3000 dsp with two Captivators" on my MIC2200. This is by far the best Ive ever heard the CAP sound, so clean and detailed with huge impact. Using the great Tron Legacy for testing material the realism is phenomonal! It just keeps on giving this thing...... I will say it again. Ive now had this for a few months, never even felt close to its limits and its still blowing me away! Not sure what the neighbours think but I am displaying restraint by not powering it up all the time............... but I really want to! Have a contact who can help me out with parametric and I guess then it will all be about sitting back and taking it all in knowing I'm getting the best out of this incredible piece of equipment. My only slight problem is that if I want another one there's very few in this country (Australia) as nobody is bringing in Jeffs products at the moment (at least I think this is the case). Not that I'm lacking bass but would just love to have dual CAPS! As it is I was very fortunate to pick this one up and I'm not sure that the guy who sold it to me really set it up properly. He had dual CAPS and I tried to get the other one but for some reason he only wanted to sell one. I will NEVER EVER part with this!

AJ

Cheers!
post #4238 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJ72 View Post

Hey guys

Just copied the 20Hz settings from the link above where the "Behringer ep4000 is compared to the Inuke 3000 dsp with two Captivators" on my MIC2200. This is by far the best Ive ever heard the CAP sound, so clean and detailed with huge impact. Using the great Tron Legacy for testing material the realism is phenomonal! It just keeps on giving this thing...... I will say it again. Ive now had this for a few months, never even felt close to its limits and its still blowing me away! Not sure what the neighbours think but I am displaying restraint by not powering it up all the time............... but I really want to! Have a contact who can help me out with parametric and I guess then it will all be about sitting back and taking it all in knowing I'm getting the best out of this incredible piece of equipment. My only slight problem is that if I want another one there's very few in this country (Australia) as nobody is bringing in Jeffs products at the moment (at least I think this is the case). Not that I'm lacking bass but would just love to have dual CAPS! As it is I was very fortunate to pick this one up and I'm not sure that the guy who sold it to me really set it up properly. He had dual CAPS and I tried to get the other one but for some reason he only wanted to sell one. I will NEVER EVER part with this!

AJ

Cheers!

I feel the same way. I love mine, and can only imagine what duals sound like.
post #4239 of 4725
Wondering if any body can shed some light on this for me. Have added a great Australian made Elektra 7 (7 channel) Theatron Power amplifier to my system. I hook all speakers up to the Power Amp binding posts (using only 5 of 7 channels) and connect Receiver pre outs using single RCA cable to power amp. I run the CAP using the same sub out from Receiver that I've always used powered by EP4000 and MIC2200. I experience a dramatic drop in bass................................? Can anybody tell me why? When I take the power amp out of the equation and hook speakers back up to just the Receiver using same subout for CAP Im back in MEGA BASS heaven again. I really like the increase in detail and sound quality that the power amplifier brings but why the drop in bass output? Does adding a power amplifier to the existing system mean I have to recalibrate again? I was just thinking how perfect the bass was and didnt want it to be impacted at all. Is this normal?

Thanks guys

P.S: If can't be rectified I will be go back to just the Receiver. Whilst sound quality is all well and good if it aint got the roar then its not worth it.
post #4240 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJ72 View Post

Wondering if any body can shed some light on this for me. Have added a great Australian made Elektra 7 (7 channel) Theatron Power amplifier to my system. I hook all speakers up to the Power Amp binding posts (using only 5 of 7 channels) and connect Receiver pre outs using single RCA cable to power amp. I run the CAP using the same sub out from Receiver that I've always used powered by EP4000 and MIC2200. I experience a dramatic drop in bass................................? Can anybody tell me why? When I take the power amp out of the equation and hook speakers back up to just the Receiver using same subout for CAP Im back in MEGA BASS heaven again. I really like the increase in detail and sound quality that the power amplifier brings but why the drop in bass output? Does adding a power amplifier to the existing system mean I have to recalibrate again? I was just thinking how perfect the bass was and didnt want it to be impacted at all. Is this normal?

Thanks guys

P.S: If can't be rectified I will be go back to just the Receiver. Whilst sound quality is all well and good if it aint got the roar then its not worth it.

There are a couple of things that could be happening. One is that the gain of your new amp is much higher than your receiver and you just need to recallibrate or manually level match your speakers to your sub. Another option could be that the receiver changes some settings when there are no speakers attached or when the preouts are used. This may also be fixable by recalibrating with the amp in use.

So I guess the answer is first try to recallibrate.
post #4241 of 4725
Watching MIB3 with the wife who just turned to me and said "your new subwoofer just vibrated my ...." FYI, it rhymes with slit

It's official, the Cap passed the WAF.
post #4242 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post

Watching MIB3 with the wife who just turned to me and said "your new subwoofer just vibrated my ...." FYI, it rhymes with slit

It's official, the Cap passed the WAF.



That's awesome
post #4243 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post

Watching MIB3 with the wife who just turned to me and said "your new subwoofer just vibrated my ...." FYI, it rhymes with slit

It's official, the Cap passed the WAF.
So your plan to phase yourself out is nearly complete?
post #4244 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post

Watching MIB3 with the wife who just turned to me and said "your new subwoofer just vibrated my ...." FYI, it rhymes with slit

It's official, the Cap passed the WAF.

That scene from the Howard Stern movie "Private Parts" just popped into my head.
post #4245 of 4725
Just about. Her comment was followed with "now you know why I need another"
post #4246 of 4725
Ok, so I ran audyssey with my Denon 1613. All I have right now is 2 T8s as my L/R, S8 for center, and an S2 for my sub.

I read the audyssey start up guide an FAQ, it said for the sub to start with the knob in the middle position and that after the calculations the sub should be between -3.5-+3.5 and if its at -12 then to lower the knob to be able to get an accurate setup.

Had it in the middle and it was -12. Dropped it a few clicks, still -12. A few more clicks and -12. Dropped almost all the way down and it was +10. Went up a few and got -12 again. I was getting really aggravated at this point. Finally got it to -6 and finished the audyssey set up. Put in The Incredible Hulk and went to the scene where he's in the school and goes nuts. Had listened to this before audyssey and loved it. Now with audyssey there was almost no bass. Wtf??? So I just turned the knob up quite a bit and replayed the scene. Now there's a lot of bass again. biggrin.gif

Now these are my first ever speakers and first sub so I don't really know anything about any of this. It sounds good to me, which is all I really care about, but am I missing something by turning the bass way higher than what audyssey was asking for? I can still hear the dialogue and everything else sounds great.

I guess what I'm asking is, should I try to get the system working properly and get the most out of it, or just leave it how I have it?
post #4247 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian View Post

That scene from the Howard Stern movie "Private Parts" just popped into my head.

Exactly! BTW, feel free to use my post as your new slogan/ad campaign. smile.gif
post #4248 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by JC507JC View Post

Ok, so I ran audyssey with my Denon 1613. All I have right now is 2 T8s as my L/R, S8 for center, and an S2 for my sub.

I read the audyssey start up guide an FAQ, it said for the sub to start with the knob in the middle position and that after the calculations the sub should be between -3.5-+3.5 and if its at -12 then to lower the knob to be able to get an accurate setup.

Had it in the middle and it was -12. Dropped it a few clicks, still -12. A few more clicks and -12. Dropped almost all the way down and it was +10. Went up a few and got -12 again. I was getting really aggravated at this point. Finally got it to -6 and finished the audyssey set up. Put in The Incredible Hulk and went to the scene where he's in the school and goes nuts. Had listened to this before audyssey and loved it. Now with audyssey there was almost no bass. Wtf??? So I just turned the knob up quite a bit and replayed the scene. Now there's a lot of bass again. biggrin.gif

Now these are my first ever speakers and first sub so I don't really know anything about any of this. It sounds good to me, which is all I really care about, but am I missing something by turning the bass way higher than what audyssey was asking for? I can still hear the dialogue and everything else sounds great.

I guess what I'm asking is, should I try to get the system working properly and get the most out of it, or just leave it how I have it?

Denon 4311's calculate the JTR S2 and JTR Capitvator subs about 10 to 12 dB low for some reason. I've seen it done on three of separate Denon 4311's now on JTR products. Use an SPL meter or RTA to set all channels and you'll see what I'm talking about. I'm not sure why, but Denon's specifically seem to have this problem. After Audyssey calibration, just turn it up to match like you did and you're no worse for the wear.
post #4249 of 4725
Jonathan,

When I calibrated mine with YPAO, I used my meter to set it to 80db but that put my at -2.5 on my AVR. Am I getting THAT much room gain?
post #4250 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

Denon 4311's calculate the JTR S2 and JTR Capitvator subs about 10 to 12 dB low for some reason. I've seen it done on three of separate Denon 4311's now on JTR products. Use an SPL meter or RTA to set all channels and you'll see what I'm talking about. I'm not sure why, but Denon's specifically seem to have this problem. After Audyssey calibration, just turn it up to match like you did and you're no worse for the wear.

Ok cool. Thanks.
post #4251 of 4725
I have looked at omnimic options. Was wondering whether the Behringer ECM 8000 which has omnimic capabilities would be okay to use with REW? Haven't seen much mention of this before wondering if it will do the job properly? Only around $100. Thanks.

AJ
post #4252 of 4725
Is an added voltage bump in additional benefit of the mic 2200?
post #4253 of 4725
Have managed to get my CAP output back to pre upgrade level! I have had to adjust, as you guys were suggesting, the bass management of the Pre amp I bought yesterday. Took me a while to work this out as the Rotel pre amp instructions are so bad its outrageous! Luckily I bought from a dealer who provided great service. Levels are set about +5dB for subwoofer and +2db for Dolby Digital and 2 Channel. Seems like a fair bit of compensation but this has allowed me to leave MIC2200 as it was setup with old system and now sounds balanced (after test signal adjustment). The best part is I now have separates (Rotel RSP 1570 pre amp and Elektra Theatron 7 power amp) and the increase in sound quality is mindblowing! Music has never sounded like this to me at home before with awesome tight clean bass and a detailed enriched soundstage courtesy of the pre and power amp. So I guess thats it for the upgrades for now............. Wife picked the wrong weekend to take the kids to the beach heh heh. One very happy chap going through all the old cd's that I havent touched for years.

One minor issue I had with the CAP this evening. Seemed to have developed a slight vibration noise when played at higher volumes. Took driver out gave a good clean inside box, tightened all screws but noise still there. However just knocking the side or placing my hand on it seemed to stop this noise. Maybe I need to somehow improve the structure (some sort of clamp?). Any body else had anything like this? What did you do to fix it? Anyway seems to have sorted itself out for now.
post #4254 of 4725
Question for you guys. I am considering placement options for my caps. I have a rectangular area that's going to be my main listening area. The wall that the TV and LCR are going to be placed is about 13.5 feet long. On the right side of that a 5 ft. false wall is going to be installed to hide the electrical box and I'm going to put the equipment rack in there as well. So the first few feet will be drywall, then it will be the space for the rack. i was considering having an opening made and installing the cap in that first 3 feet, to get it out of the way. Any thoughts or things that I should be considering/looking at? thanks.
post #4255 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by hogues View Post

Question for you guys. I am considering placement options for my caps. I have a rectangular area that's going to be my main listening area. The wall that the TV and LCR are going to be placed is about 13.5 feet long. On the right side of that a 5 ft. false wall is going to be installed to hide the electrical box and I'm going to put the equipment rack in there as well. So the first few feet will be drywall, then it will be the space for the rack. i was considering having an opening made and installing the cap in that first 3 feet, to get it out of the way. Any thoughts or things that I should be considering/looking at? thanks.

By an opening, do you mean having the front of the Cap flush with the wall?
post #4256 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post

By an opening, do you mean having the front of the Cap flush with the wall?

The back and right side of the cap would be against the wall. The front would be facing the TV and across to the far wall. A crude drawing:


Edited by hogues - 3/13/13 at 1:11pm
post #4257 of 4725
Hogues, do you have the cap already? I would place the cap at various locations and see where it sounds best before you make any modifications to the room.
post #4258 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hksvr4 View Post

Hogues, do you have the cap already? I would place the cap at various locations and see where it sounds best before you make any modifications to the room.

thanks for the response. I do plan on trying different locations, but I guess my question is if the false wall space sounds good, is there anything that I need to do/think about when placing a sub in that location.
post #4259 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by hogues View Post

thanks for the response. I do plan on trying different locations, but I guess my question is if the false wall space sounds good, is there anything that I need to do/think about when placing a sub in that location.
The only thing I can think of would be to make sure it does not make the whole false wall rattle.
post #4260 of 4725
I just need to know a couple of things regarding bass setup for running the CAP. Im currently running my Rotel preamp subwoofer setting at max level (+10dB) all other speakers are set at 0dB. I'm also running the Dolby Digital subwoofer setting at +4dB. In addition to this I've increased the output on MIC2200 to +4dB. This (+18dB) seems to be a he'll of a lot of compensation. If my old setup was 100% satisfying then this is about 90-95%. I ran my old AVR on it's own using only subwoofer out with no loss in signal strength to mic2200 and Behringer power amp. As soon as I use AVR or new preamp preouts (for other 5 speakers) with my Elektra power amp this seems to change the dynamic and reduces bass signal. I am worried what the compensation to overcome this is doing to the signal quality/output. I have ordered a Samson S Convert to boost signal strength between subwoofer preout and MIC2200/EP4000. I'm hoping this will match signal strength. Is this a better option than all the above compensation? Or is it just doing the same thing in the one area? I have a Behringer omnimic and was waiting until I get the signal strength issue sorted before I start playing around with REW. Also do I need a sound card to use with REW? I have an RS SPL meter and a laptop so is this ,in addition to omnimic, all I need to get started with Parametric EQ? Apologies if rehashing a bit but I'm sure others have encountered the consumer/pro voltage mismatch and a JTR Passive CAP. Thanks.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers › JTR Captivator