JTR Captivator - Page 142

Originally Posted by Jedirun 

I run my S2 on a dedicated 20 amp circuit. Many people run these on non-dedicated circuits without issues.

I am not sure what the cost was because I did it in conjunction with other required electrical work. If this helps give you an idea, it cost $1700 for 3 dedicated 20 Amp circuits run to the theater and the replacement of several circuit breakers in the breaker box that had failed or were failing.

Originally Posted by ratm 

Does it matter if I rarely, if ever, will push this cap/amp to its limits?

Originally Posted by Jedirun 

I would say don't worry about it unless it causes problems which is unlikely.

I did it because of the other electrical issues that I had. I have a 50 year old house and theater was on the same 20 amp circuit as the kitchen. We had a circuit blow when running a toaster oven and microwave at the same time. Running 3 dedicated circuits to the the theater meant that my equipment would not have to share a circuit with the kitchen, and have the potential of blowing the breakers.

As long as you don't have a situation like this, it probably doesn't matter.

Originally Posted by dlbeck 

Each of my S2's are running off a 20amp dedicated circuit as well. The only reason I did it because a lot of "stuff" was on the same circuit including the lights. Every time I watched a movie with a little light they would flicker. It was a cool at first but annoying after awhile :-). And I have a friend who is an electrician so it wasn't too expensive for me.

Originally Posted by Frohlich 

I did it the same way. Since we were having the basement finished I had them run 3 lines. One for all my equipment and one for each subwoofer. Didn't know if it was overkill or not but did just because that was the best time to do it....rather not find out the hard way and then have to have an electrician come back after everything was done and set-up.

Originally Posted by Archaea 

Nube,

I still think your amp dip switches are jacked --- at least from the picture you've posted. That sure as heck looks like you have them opposite of what you want. I think i can see the little white nub that sits atop the dip switch to make sliding it easier and it is opposite the dark shadow. It looks like the shadow is actually the dark space behind the dip switch inside the amp casing.

If this isn't the case then your pic is really difficult to make out - even blown up on my HDTV.

What I see in your pic is
R
R
L
R
R
L
L
L
R
R

If that's truly what they are then that is not what you want for bridged mono operation. I'm with bass addict, you might want to take a look a the dip switches visually to ensure it's not just a camera trick.


Also --- did you notice that the on switch is NOT always on the right side according to both the user manual instructions and the printed silk screen on the back of the amp. Unfortunately it's not simply right = on

I checked my dips and they match what I've advised ratm to use with the exception of 4-7 (cause I used the amp in stereo mode with a pair of subs - rather than bridged with a single) and 1 and 10 because I didn't use the clip limiter either. My EP4000 was used in a subwoofer meet at 2011 HuskerOmaha meet and so measured with an expensive REW setup, and then measured with my omnimic multiple times in my room and others.

My measurements in my room with my EP4000
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1375633/ep4000-vs-inuke-dsp-3000-w-2-jtr-captivators-and-an-omnimic-which-amp-is-better

HuskerOmaha's measurements in his room with my EP4000.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1368326/subfest-2011-huskeromaha-and-desertdomes-subwoofer-showdown/30#post_21119796



Thus I know for a fact that mine was playing without the low cut filter engaged on my EP4000.
****************************************************


ratm


There's a simple test you could do to ensure your amp is playing frequencies below the optional 30hz or 50hz low cuts as it should -- even without complex measuring equipment.
Use the attached 20hz test tone.

Play the tone, measure the output with your SPL meter, and then flip switch 3, measure SPL again. If it drops spl when the switch is flipped to the left, then you do indeed need the switch to the right.

20Hz.zip 334k .zip file

Originally Posted by AJ72 

Hey guys

Just copied the 20Hz settings from the link above where the "Behringer ep4000 is compared to the Inuke 3000 dsp with two Captivators" on my MIC2200. This is by far the best Ive ever heard the CAP sound, so clean and detailed with huge impact. Using the great Tron Legacy for testing material the realism is phenomonal! It just keeps on giving this thing...... I will say it again. Ive now had this for a few months, never even felt close to its limits and its still blowing me away! Not sure what the neighbours think but I am displaying restraint by not powering it up all the time............... but I really want to! Have a contact who can help me out with parametric and I guess then it will all be about sitting back and taking it all in knowing I'm getting the best out of this incredible piece of equipment. My only slight problem is that if I want another one there's very few in this country (Australia) as nobody is bringing in Jeffs products at the moment (at least I think this is the case). Not that I'm lacking bass but would just love to have dual CAPS! As it is I was very fortunate to pick this one up and I'm not sure that the guy who sold it to me really set it up properly. He had dual CAPS and I tried to get the other one but for some reason he only wanted to sell one. I will NEVER EVER part with this!

AJ

Cheers!

Originally Posted by AJ72 

Wondering if any body can shed some light on this for me. Have added a great Australian made Elektra 7 (7 channel) Theatron Power amplifier to my system. I hook all speakers up to the Power Amp binding posts (using only 5 of 7 channels) and connect Receiver pre outs using single RCA cable to power amp. I run the CAP using the same sub out from Receiver that I've always used powered by EP4000 and MIC2200. I experience a dramatic drop in bass................................? Can anybody tell me why? When I take the power amp out of the equation and hook speakers back up to just the Receiver using same subout for CAP Im back in MEGA BASS heaven again. I really like the increase in detail and sound quality that the power amplifier brings but why the drop in bass output? Does adding a power amplifier to the existing system mean I have to recalibrate again? I was just thinking how perfect the bass was and didnt want it to be impacted at all. Is this normal?

Thanks guys

P.S: If can't be rectified I will be go back to just the Receiver. Whilst sound quality is all well and good if it aint got the roar then its not worth it.

Originally Posted by ratm 

Watching MIB3 with the wife who just turned to me and said "your new subwoofer just vibrated my ...." FYI, it rhymes with slit

It's official, the Cap passed the WAF.

Originally Posted by ratm 

Watching MIB3 with the wife who just turned to me and said "your new subwoofer just vibrated my ...." FYI, it rhymes with slit

It's official, the Cap passed the WAF.

Originally Posted by ratm 

Watching MIB3 with the wife who just turned to me and said "your new subwoofer just vibrated my ...." FYI, it rhymes with slit

It's official, the Cap passed the WAF.

Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian 

That scene from the Howard Stern movie "Private Parts" just popped into my head.

Originally Posted by JC507JC 

Ok, so I ran audyssey with my Denon 1613. All I have right now is 2 T8s as my L/R, S8 for center, and an S2 for my sub.

I read the audyssey start up guide an FAQ, it said for the sub to start with the knob in the middle position and that after the calculations the sub should be between -3.5-+3.5 and if its at -12 then to lower the knob to be able to get an accurate setup.

Had it in the middle and it was -12. Dropped it a few clicks, still -12. A few more clicks and -12. Dropped almost all the way down and it was +10. Went up a few and got -12 again. I was getting really aggravated at this point. Finally got it to -6 and finished the audyssey set up. Put in The Incredible Hulk and went to the scene where he's in the school and goes nuts. Had listened to this before audyssey and loved it. Now with audyssey there was almost no bass. Wtf??? So I just turned the knob up quite a bit and replayed the scene. Now there's a lot of bass again.

Now these are my first ever speakers and first sub so I don't really know anything about any of this. It sounds good to me, which is all I really care about, but am I missing something by turning the bass way higher than what audyssey was asking for? I can still hear the dialogue and everything else sounds great.

I guess what I'm asking is, should I try to get the system working properly and get the most out of it, or just leave it how I have it?

Originally Posted by Archaea 

Denon 4311's calculate the JTR S2 and JTR Capitvator subs about 10 to 12 dB low for some reason. I've seen it done on three of separate Denon 4311's now on JTR products. Use an SPL meter or RTA to set all channels and you'll see what I'm talking about. I'm not sure why, but Denon's specifically seem to have this problem. After Audyssey calibration, just turn it up to match like you did and you're no worse for the wear.

Originally Posted by hogues 

Question for you guys. I am considering placement options for my caps. I have a rectangular area that's going to be my main listening area. The wall that the TV and LCR are going to be placed is about 13.5 feet long. On the right side of that a 5 ft. false wall is going to be installed to hide the electrical box and I'm going to put the equipment rack in there as well. So the first few feet will be drywall, then it will be the space for the rack. i was considering having an opening made and installing the cap in that first 3 feet, to get it out of the way. Any thoughts or things that I should be considering/looking at? thanks.

Originally Posted by ratm 

By an opening, do you mean having the front of the Cap flush with the wall?

Originally Posted by Hksvr4 

Hogues, do you have the cap already? I would place the cap at various locations and see where it sounds best before you make any modifications to the room.

Originally Posted by hogues 

thanks for the response. I do plan on trying different locations, but I guess my question is if the false wall space sounds good, is there anything that I need to do/think about when placing a sub in that location.