or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers › JTR Captivator
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

JTR Captivator - Page 149

post #4441 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhed View Post

Doublewing.. Post when you receive your S2. And a little review of it. Thanks..

Hope you aren't in the mood to buy immediately........I have no idea when it will arrive and is holding up finishing my room.

Off to wiring rack.....
post #4442 of 4725
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post

Hope you aren't in the mood to buy immediately........I have no idea when it will arrive and is holding up finishing my room.

Off to wiring rack.....

Sorry this is taking so long Cory and your frustration is understandable. Unfortunately, Jeff is a one man show and he is probably swamped at the moment. The good news is the guy never cuts corners and when you get the sub it will perform as advertised. smile.gif
post #4443 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Sorry this is taking so long Cory and your frustration is understandable. Unfortunately, Jeff is a one man show and he is probably swamped at the moment. The good news is the guy never cuts corners and when you get the sub it will perform as advertised. smile.gif

Sure hope so..........wink.gif

How the S2 performs will help me decide what direction I go with leveling for second row. Currently, I'm figuring two Triad Cinema Pluses......one for each back column. If the wait was worth it.........I might figure another S2 for the rear or a single Cap. Time will tell............

My seats come in today.............planned them to be the last item before completion. Well, I still have rack issues.............need to order one more shelf and faceplate.........so I'm still working on the room. If the S2 is late..........it's late.............hopefully not October late!!! biggrin.gif
post #4444 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post

Sure hope so..........wink.gif

How the S2 performs will help me decide what direction I go with leveling for second row. Currently, I'm figuring two Triad Cinema Pluses......one for each back column. If the wait was worth it.........I might figure another S2 for the rear or a single Cap. Time will tell............

My seats come in today.............planned them to be the last item before completion. Well, I still have rack issues.............need to order one more shelf and faceplate.........so I'm still working on the room. If the S2 is late..........it's late.............hopefully not October late!!! biggrin.gif

I'm sure it won't be that late. I thought I saw someone order and had 60 lead time
post #4445 of 4725
All,

I just returned from a week-long international trip and turned on my HT to take some SPL measurements. But I noticed that my cap S2 is not producing any bass!

I initially thought that it was a cabling issue, but the power lights on the back of the sub are on and when I send a test signal to the LFE channel the "signal" light on the sub amp blinks as expected but the sub remains silent.

All other system components and speakers are working fine.

Any ideas? Is there a way to reset the sub that I should try?
Edited by logicators - 8/4/13 at 10:04am
post #4446 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by logicators View Post

All,

I just returned from a week-long international trip and turned on my HT to take some SPL measurements. But I noticed that my cap S2 is not producing any bass!

I initially thought that it was a cabling issue, but the power lights on the back of the sub are on and when I send a test signal to the LFE channel the "signal" light on the sub amp blinks as expected but the sub remains silent.

All other system components and speakers are working fine.

Any ideas? Is there a way to reset the sub that I should try?



Bro.. Probably not answering your question. But I have one for you. Do you have the plain black finish on your S2? If you do, how's it look?
post #4447 of 4725
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by logicators View Post

All,

I just returned from a week-long international trip and turned on my HT to take some SPL measurements. But I noticed that my cap S2 is not producing any bass!

I initially thought that it was a cabling issue, but the power lights on the back of the sub are on and when I send a test signal to the LFE channel the "signal" light on the sub amp blinks as expected but the sub remains silent.

All other system components and speakers are working fine.

Any ideas? Is there a way to reset the sub that I should try?

Have you checked the XLR cable?
post #4448 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by logicators View Post

All,

I just returned from a week-long international trip and turned on my HT to take some SPL measurements. But I noticed that my cap S2 is not producing any bass!

I initially thought that it was a cabling issue, but the power lights on the back of the sub are on and when I send a test signal to the LFE channel the "signal" light on the sub amp blinks as expected but the sub remains silent.

All other system components and speakers are working fine.

Any ideas? Is there a way to reset the sub that I should try?

Have you checked the XLR cable?

Yes I plugged it out and plugged back in. I also switched to 'sub 2' pre-out from 'sub 1' on the AVR.

If the cable was not sending the signal, the green signal light on the back of the S2 amp would't blink, but it blinks properly when I send a test tone to the LFE channel. Seems like the sub is receiving the input but it's not outputting anything.
post #4449 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhed View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by logicators View Post

All,

I just returned from a week-long international trip and turned on my HT to take some SPL measurements. But I noticed that my cap S2 is not producing any bass!

I initially thought that it was a cabling issue, but the power lights on the back of the sub are on and when I send a test signal to the LFE channel the "signal" light on the sub amp blinks as expected but the sub remains silent.

All other system components and speakers are working fine.

Any ideas? Is there a way to reset the sub that I should try?



Bro.. Probably not answering your question. But I have one for you. Do you have the plain black finish on your S2? If you do, how's it look?

Yes I have the lack finish and it looks pretty good to me.
post #4450 of 4725
Just tried a different cable. Same results.
post #4451 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by logicators View Post

Just tried a different cable. Same results.

Well worst case scenario you have Jeff to back you smile.gif
post #4452 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by logicators View Post

All,

I just returned from a week-long international trip and turned on my HT to take some SPL measurements. But I noticed that my cap S2 is not producing any bass!

I initially thought that it was a cabling issue, but the power lights on the back of the sub are on and when I send a test signal to the LFE channel the "signal" light on the sub amp blinks as expected but the sub remains silent.

All other system components and speakers are working fine.

Any ideas? Is there a way to reset the sub that I should try?

Could it be something with the AVR and not the sub? Like speakers set to large?
post #4453 of 4725
Nope. Speakers are set to small plus LFE only output is not played either. AVR and cable can't be culprits since the sub amp shows that it's receiving input.
post #4454 of 4725
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by logicators View Post

Nope. Speakers are set to small plus LFE only output is not played either. AVR and cable can't be culprits since the sub amp shows that it's receiving input.

Sounds weird, it was working before you left? Did you turn off the sub amp before leaving?

If the amp is putting out a signal then it might be a wire connection at the amp or drivers has come loose. Not sure how the S2 is setup internally but removing the amp and checking the internal wires would be an easy next step. Calling Jeff for advice is also a good idea.
Good luck ...
post #4455 of 4725
Hope your S2 didn't get a spike or surge through the electrical outlet while you where away. If so I think the sub has a built in fuse protection if that happens. And it's on idle even when not in use..
post #4456 of 4725
Yes it was working before I left. The sub is attached to a surge protector and I physically unplugged the surge protector power cord from the wall outlet before I left.

I will call Jeff in the morning to see if there is anything else to check externally before I try removing the amp.
post #4457 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by logicators View Post

Yes it was working before I left. The sub is attached to a surge protector and I physically unplugged the surge protector power cord from the wall outlet before I left.

I will call Jeff in the morning to see if there is anything else to check externally before I try removing the amp.

If you havent already, make sure the mute and pgm sel buttons are both in. Power off the amp, verify the buttons, then power back on.
post #4458 of 4725
Just so I understand it: There are two buttons that can be pressed. The first one says 'SW1' and the second one says 'SW2'. There is also a label that says 'SW1-MUTE-OUT' and 'SW2-PGM-SEL'.

When I checked SW1 was in pressed state (IN) and SW2 was not in pressed state (OUT). I powered off the amp, pressed SW2 so they are both 'IN' and powered it back on. The result is still the same.
post #4459 of 4725
I just tried all 4 states (both IN, both OUT, SW1 IN SW2 OUT, SW1 OUT SW2 IN) with no luck...

There is also a white button on the bottom labeled '30' and it seems like it can't be pressed. An ideas what that is?
post #4460 of 4725
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by logicators View Post

I just tried all 4 states (both IN, both OUT, SW1 IN SW2 OUT, SW1 OUT SW2 IN) with no luck...

There is also a white button on the bottom labeled '30' and it seems like it can't be pressed. An ideas what that is?

That is the 30 amp fuse, not a button. wink.gif
post #4461 of 4725
Wow... Was anyone else at home while you were away? rolleyes.gif
Edited by rhed - 8/4/13 at 8:02pm
post #4462 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhed View Post

Wow... Was anyone else at home while you were away? rolleyes.gif

Nope
post #4463 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by logicators View Post

I just tried all 4 states (both IN, both OUT, SW1 IN SW2 OUT, SW1 OUT SW2 IN) with no luck...

There is also a white button on the bottom labeled '30' and it seems like it can't be pressed. An ideas what that is?

That is the 30 amp fuse, not a button. wink.gif

smile.gif

So if the amp is turning on the fuse can't be bad. Correct?
post #4464 of 4725
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by logicators View Post

smile.gif

So if the amp is turning on the fuse can't be bad. Correct?
I would think so, but I would also check the fuse. wink.gif
post #4465 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

I would think so, but I would also check the fuse. wink.gif

Do you know if I need to get the amp out in order to check the fuse? I removed the nut around the fuse but it's not coming out.
post #4466 of 4725
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by logicators View Post

Do you know if I need to get the amp out in order to check the fuse? I removed the nut around the fuse but it's not coming out.

As I recall it is a push and turn deal but check with Jeff.

BTW, Ironhead's suggestion re the mute button is a very good one. I acidentally pushed it on one of my my OS's and thought I had a blown amp for 2 days ... confused.giftongue.gif ... but I know you already checked that.
Edited by RMK! - 8/5/13 at 7:18am
post #4467 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by logicators View Post

I just tried all 4 states (both IN, both OUT, SW1 IN SW2 OUT, SW1 OUT SW2 IN) with no luck...

There is also a white button on the bottom labeled '30' and it seems like it can't be pressed. An ideas what that is?

That is the 30 amp fuse, not a button. wink.gif

Actually it's a breaker. There is no fuse to check. If it pops (out), you would push it back in to reset it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by logicators View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by logicators View Post

I just tried all 4 states (both IN, both OUT, SW1 IN SW2 OUT, SW1 OUT SW2 IN) with no luck...

There is also a white button on the bottom labeled '30' and it seems like it can't be pressed. An ideas what that is?

That is the 30 amp fuse, not a button. wink.gif

So if the amp is turning on the fuse can't be bad. Correct?

Correct. Breaker popped = no power LED.

If you are sending signal to the subwoofer, the green SIGNAL LED should be flashing. If this LED is flashing, the mute button is pressed IN, and you have no sound, contact JTR about getting it repaired.
post #4468 of 4725
Thanks Mark!

Yes the mute button is pressed in and signal LED is flashing but there is no sound. I will call Jeff.
post #4469 of 4725
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Seaton View Post

Actually it's a breaker. There is no fuse to check. If it pops (out), you would push it back in to reset it.
Correct. Breaker popped = no power LED.

If you are sending signal to the subwoofer, the green SIGNAL LED should be flashing. If this LED is flashing, the mute button is pressed IN, and you have no sound, contact JTR about getting it repaired.

Fuse, breaker ... 220, 221 ... whatever it takes ... tongue.gif
Edited by RMK! - 8/5/13 at 9:38am
post #4470 of 4725
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Seaton View Post

Actually it's a breaker. There is no fuse to check. If it pops (out), you would push it back in to reset it.
Correct. Breaker popped = no power LED.

If you are sending signal to the subwoofer, the green SIGNAL LED should be flashing. If this LED is flashing, the mute button is pressed IN, and you have no sound, contact JTR about getting it repaired.

Fuse, breaker ... 220, 225 ... whatever it takes ... tongue.gif

Yes, I got a good laugh from it. That said, guys shouldn't be trying to "remove the nut" holding the breaker in while searching for a non-existent fuse to check, which is what prompted me to comment. wink.gif
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers › JTR Captivator