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Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - Page 41

post #1201 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilsonL View Post

+1!

put up a supply list that you needed to get and not supplied by DSL

Danley supplies a list of the parts included in the kit and recommended parts including quantities that are not provided. Some of the stuff you would need to get are:Screws for the panel assembly. Drywall/wood or whatever. Just get a whole box. You need probably 200 or more. 10-24 machine screws for the hatches. Driver mounting bolts (These were listed as 1/4-20 in the list but that is not right BTW). Screws for mounting the grill. Cable ties. A large bottle of wood glue, or something like PL premium. Some sort of silicone or other sealant (you need this for where the wires go through the driver baffle at least.) A few feet of speaker wire. Whatever connector/s you wish to use. Beer.

As far as tools, you don't need much. I used : A power drill, a set of assorted phillips bits, a set of drill bits (a few of the panels were not pre drilled, no biggie, plus you'll need it for the grill and the connector panel.) A spade bit for the speakon terminal. A flat head and phillips head screwdriver. A set of allen wrenches (I used a little $10 allen ratchet to great effect because all of the driver and hatch screws I used are allen hex.) Wire stripper. Exacto knife. A towel or rag to wipe off excess glue and sealer. A bottle opener for the beer. That's about it really.



Quote:
Originally Posted by 2100 View Post

Oh...Ricci, so we are supposed to drill our own NL4MP(s) into the BB, depending on what kind of wiring flexibility you want? (parallel, series)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

Not everybody wants the same kind of connectors-so there is just a recessed area for you to put whatever connector you want in it.

Some people will drive it off of a single channel and others (like Ricci) will drive it off of 2 channels-so the flexability of connectors is left to the end user.

Right. I think it's about a 4"x4" recessed area for the connectors. Plenty of room for whatever. Interestingly on the inside of the side panel by the outer drive unit there's a recess. I guess that's another possible spot.
post #1202 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjg100 View Post

My room is 11'-5 1/2" wide 13'-5 1/2" long with 8' ceiling.

Wow. That's a small room Mike. 1250cuft. I have a feeling that one of the DTS-10's would sound rather hefty in there.
post #1203 of 9954
In Transit
Scheduled Delivery: 11/17/2009
Service: UPS Freight LTL
Shipped To: UPS FREIGHT
Weight: 498 Lbs


I won't get my drivers for another week.
post #1204 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci View Post

Danley supplies a list of the parts included in the kit.

I used a little $10 allen ratchet to great effect because all of the driver and hatch screws I used are allen hex.

A bottle opener for the beer.


I can see them not throwing in the allen hex, but they don't throw in the bottle opener?!?! What's all that shipping cost going to? LOL!


dbl
post #1205 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci View Post

As far as tools, you don't need much. I used : A power drill, a set of assorted phillips bits, a set of drill bits (a few of the panels were not pre drilled, no biggie, plus you'll need it for the grill and the connector panel.)

Ricci, which panels weren't pre drilled and about how many holes did you have to drill yourself? Thanks for all the info so far, looking forward to hearing your impressions.
post #1206 of 9954
Thread Starter 
All the panels are pre drilled on the outside. The edges of the internal panels are not done.
post #1207 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjg100 View Post

My room is 11'-5 1/2" wide 13'-5 1/2" long with 8' ceiling.

That is about 1240 cu.ft. (35 cu.m.) and a very small room to put a DTS-10 in for sure. Small rooms also tend to give higher fc (Schroder frequency) depending on damping.

Here is an example from: Sound reproduction: loudspeakers and rooms, Floyd E. Toole.

In the example given, the room is 20' x 24' x 9' which is 4320 cu.ft. (122 cu.m.) and yields a calculated fc of 111 Hz though it is suggested that a better estimate would be 200 Hz. Your room is significantly smaller so I would expect your fc to be higher.

Take a tip from Geddes and run your mains as low as you can without undo excursion. Then bring in your sub(s) to extend and flatten your response below fc. Multisub Setup (Geddes)
LL
LL
LL
post #1208 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdoughertyiv View Post

Ricci, which panels weren't pre drilled and about how many holes did you have to drill yourself? Thanks for all the info so far, looking forward to hearing your impressions.

There was only one panel that was not predrilled. I believe it was the outside panel opposite of the side with the mouth location. In total I think I put 6 or 8 screws in it. It was nothing really.
post #1209 of 9954
BTW I just wanted to let anyone thinking of buying this kit know that I would not recommend it for use past 100hz and a 60-80hz x-over would be better. There is a very nasty null right past 100hz. This is a deep extending subwoofer not a little MBM. If you were thinking of running it up to 150-200hz I'd look at something else for that job.
post #1210 of 9954
I will use a 80hz crossover myself.
post #1211 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci View Post

BTW I just wanted to let anyone thinking of buying this kit know that I would not recommend it for use past 100hz and a 60-80hz x-over would be better. There is a very nasty null right past 100hz. This is a deep extending subwoofer not a little MBM. If you were thinking of running it up to 150-200hz I'd look at something else for that job.

Is it good with music? Particularly electronic music.
post #1212 of 9954
So Ricci, What is your overall opinion of the DTS. Is it a fantastic sub or something else? How hard does it hit, How about music? I want to know everything......
post #1213 of 9954
You guys will have to wait a few days for all of that. I still have to put it in place and integrate it into one of my systems. That'll likely take most of my time tonight.
post #1214 of 9954
I understand, Sorry I'm so impatient......
post #1215 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by Decadent_Spectre View Post

Is it good with music? Particularly electronic music.

The DTS10 sounds fantastic with music. I've thrown metal, country, blues, big band(Gordon Goodwin Big Phat Band, the best band and recorded incredibly well), electronic dance, classical, pop, as well as movies like Transformers, Master and Commmander, Spider Man 2, Open Range, etc and it reproduces it all incredibly well. Our demo room is set up with Crestron control and a custom switcher Ivan designed and built which allows us to instantly switch between any of our tops or subs in almost any combination. The DTS10 has more punch, goes lower than the DTS20 or the TH50. It really is a very nice combination of extremely low extension with punch. We regularly hear from folks that upon purchasing our products they spent hours listening to their recording collection hearing details like they had never heard before.

Thanks

Mike Hedden
Danley Sound Labs, Inc.
post #1216 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by catapult View Post

http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/pdf/danley_tapped.pdf

In Tom's example in the paper, he compares the same driver in the same size boxes, one vented and one a tapped horn. With the same power, the SPL is more or less equal but, because of the horn loading, cone excursion is less for the TH. When you run them both up to Xmax, the TH puts out about 10dB more but it also needs about 10x the power to do it. So Hoffman's law isn't really dead with these critters but it does get beat up a little.


" To illustrate just how much low frequency extension and overall output can be gained from a small horn loaded box using this
technique, modeled simulations of a Tapped Horn and a vented box, loaded with drivers optimized for the performance of each
one, are compared in Figure 1. Each enclosure has the same outer cabinet dimensions; 40 in. x 22.5 in x 28 in.....
This type of comparison is possible because this is a computer model. Realistically, the driver required for the vented box has a very small
moving mass for a 15 inch driver, only 100 g. As a result, there is no way this driver can be built with a strong, heavy cone and a large diameter,
long travel voice coil. The power handing (heat dissipation) and excursion capability (Xmax) of this driver will be severely limited.
Approximately 3-4 mm would be the expected limit for this driver.
The driver used for the Tapped Horn is much heavier, almost 200 g. It has a long, large diameter voice coil. This allows for high power handling
and long excursion. Its linear Xmax is in excess of 9 mm....Accounting for the excursion limitations of each driver, and limiting the input so as not exceed the Xmax of each driver, the maximum SPL
output capability of each is shown in Figure . This is given for a distance of 10 meters. The vented box is limited to an input of 30 V (113 W)
while the Tapped Horn can accept 90 V (1,013 W). From this the advantages of the Tapped Horn should be obvious. "



Sounds like BS to me... this isn't comparing high excursion LLT subs (XXX, LMS, Maelstrom, Avalanche, RLp, Tumult) with low excursion TH subs....
post #1217 of 9954
"Sounds like BS to me... this isn't comparing high excursion LLT subs (XXX, LMS, Maelstrom, Avalanche, RLp, Tumult) with low excursion TH subs...."

I don't know why they did such a comparison, when the DST-10 will trounce any LLT of the same size, according to my modeling and according to Brandon, who noted that the DTS-10 is 10 dB more efficient than his LLT.
post #1218 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci View Post

I've read it before. It never really hit me but the paper does seem to be down playing the pay-off in efficiency for the TH, but the decreased excursion demands on the driver allow it to accept more power and thus put out more sound before hitting it's limits. This is confusing to me. Usually the extreme efficiency is what is touted. Really it's 2 different ways to skin a cat both allowing the driver to put out more sound with less effort (displacement).

I caught that too... all day I'm reading "it only takes 29 watts to blow your face off and it's already overkill!" then all a sudden we're adding 10X the power to get 10dB... what is going on here? (rhetorical question... you've mensioned it yourself several times, but I wil ziiiip it!)
post #1219 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci View Post

I've read it before. It never really hit me but the paper does seem to be down playing the pay-off in efficiency for the TH, but the decreased excursion demands on the driver allow it to accept more power and thus put out more sound before hitting it's limits. This is confusing to me. Usually the extreme efficiency is what is touted. Really it's 2 different ways to skin a cat both allowing the driver to put out more sound with less effort (displacement).

oh, and, won't giving it 10X the power tear up the soft parts...too much pressure?!

BTW Ricci, I don't want an LMS sealed vs TH, or a XXX sealed vs TH.... I want that XXX in 20 whatever cubes @ 11Hz vs TH please
post #1220 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hedden View Post

The DTS10 sounds fantastic with music. I've thrown metal, country, blues, big band(Gordon Goodwin Big Phat Band, the best band and recorded incredibly well), electronic dance, classical, pop, as well as movies like Transformers, Master and Commmander, Spider Man 2, Open Range, etc and it reproduces it all incredibly well. Our demo room is set up with Crestron control and a custom switcher Ivan designed and built which allows us to instantly switch between any of our tops or subs in almost any combination. The DTS10 has more punch, goes lower than the DTS20 or the TH50. It really is a very nice combination of extremely low extension with punch. We regularly hear from folks that upon purchasing our products they spent hours listening to their recording collection hearing details like they had never heard before.

Thanks

Mike Hedden
Danley Sound Labs, Inc.

Mike, does the DTS-10 best the TH-115/212/412 for music in terms of output/punch and subjective sound quality?
post #1221 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

"Sounds like BS to me... this isn't comparing high excursion LLT subs (XXX, LMS, Maelstrom, Avalanche, RLp, Tumult) with low excursion TH subs...."

I don't know why they did such a comparison, when the DST-10 will trounce any LLT of the same size, according to my modeling and according to Brandon, who noted that the DTS-10 is 10 dB more efficient than his LLT.

Noah, Can you share what your modeling showed for the DTS-10 in terms of max output (and corresponding excursions) at 11, 20, 32, 40 and 50 Hz ?

It would be appreciated by many.
post #1222 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

there was a guy around here who has tried to correlate the subjective impressions reported in many different venues of high efficiency (pro-audio type) vs. low efficiency subwoofer systems (hi-fi type). he would talk often about the subjectively greater "attack" that one experiences with high efficiency type subwoofers. he has suggested that uncompressed instantaneous peaks were very important to the subjectively different level of "impact" between p.a. and hi-fi subs.

despite his many posts, there were only about five or six people, who had much sympathy his posts. many ignored him. many thought he had an agenda. many tried to make him look bad because he hadn't built any big subwoofers. however, he never gave up on posting what he had concluded was the truth.

not too long ago, he posted a thread about the inherenent deficiency of modern spl meters to capture the instantaneous peaks and dips that are so important for recreating life-like sound. but data presented by other members drove him back from his original claim. eventually, he was forced to conceed spl meters are fulling accurate, just to end the arguing.

this guy would also talk about how much spl is actually required for uncompressed content. when he would present plots made in audacity and then calculate driver efficiency and amplifier needs, the results usually exceeded what most people have (systems capable of uncompressed response into the 120db's). as a result, most folks would tell him he was wrong, ignore him, flame him with comments such as "nobody would ever listen that loud", or roll their eyes. however, there were always a few people around that had sympathy for his posts and five or six who actually agreed. despite this, the weight of the forum was always on his shoulders, never a majority in his favor.

tom danley recently made a post that reads like something that other guy would have written:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=534

i suspect that tom's post (and the reviews that will follow his gift to our community) will give many members who disagreed with that other guy pause, because unlike the other guy who has no credibility, tom's cannot be questioned.

i just can't remember who that other guy was. none the less, it is great to see tom's post because, hopefully, these issues will now be discussed in a more balanced fashion.

wow man... sitting here reading for hours... that was a nice change of venu... I hope "that guy" sees this. I too know what it is like, I approach things from a different angle. I'm the guy that wants either 3 or 4 DTS-10's in a van, or, 4 21" Maelstrom-X's in 40-50 cubes ported @ 15Hz.... and everyone says WHY!


There is almost no content below 35Hz in music. There is no reason to have that much capability in a car. 4 Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's off a Kicker KX850.4 on the dash, 2 CSS/Exodus FR125S's off a KX350.4, and 2 Vifa XT25TG30's off a KX200.2.... all right in front of my face...lol.
post #1223 of 9954
As usual, the discussion gravitates to emphasis on theoretical steady state max output scenarios.

As Noah said, the DTS-10 will trounce ANY single driver ported sub in every category.

Josh will verify this fact.

The interesting match up is MKT's system, IMO. X-max is irrelevant. He NEVER reaches X-max even when pegging the RS meter and the efficiency gap is narrowed in co-locating 8-18s while power handling is way higher and BW is an octave lower.

Bosso
post #1224 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci View Post

Wow. That's a small room Mike. 1250cuft. I have a feeling that one of the DTS-10's would sound rather hefty in there.

Yes that is what I am concerned about. Shame that I can't place it in my large room (12,000+ CF.
post #1225 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by bossobass View Post

As usual, the discussion gravitates to emphasis on theoretical steady state max output scenarios.

As Noah said, the DTS-10 will trounce ANY single driver ported sub in every category.

Josh will verify this fact.

The interesting match up is MKT's system, IMO. X-max is irrelevant. He NEVER reaches X-max even when pegging the RS meter and the efficiency gap is narrowed in co-locating 8-18s while power handling is way higher and BW is an octave lower.

Bosso

Bosso, I like you, man, but at what point did asking specific questions about output become bad ?

Or are we to the point that certain designs can have 1 watt graphs posted from the manufacturer and then we decide that we can just add 33 dB to this output for a 2000 watt signal and call it a day ?
post #1226 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by bossobass View Post

As usual, the discussion gravitates to emphasis on theoretical steady state max output scenarios.

As Noah said, the DTS-10 will trounce ANY single driver ported sub in every category.

Josh will verify this fact.

The interesting match up is MKT's system, IMO. X-max is irrelevant. He NEVER reaches X-max even when pegging the RS meter and the efficiency gap is narrowed in co-locating 8-18s while power handling is way higher and BW is an octave lower.

Bosso

Yes, I think that is the heavy weight match that everyone is excited to see.
post #1227 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray View Post

You debated pro audio drivers as being better choices then consumer drivers like the Mal-x and the everyone pointed out that the Mal-x goes deeper and we want 15Hz or even 10Hz performance and are okay with sacrificing a little upper frequency performance to get it.

There still isnt a pro audio driver that does what the Mal-x does in a normal box.

This thread is more about Danley's designs and less about the driver being pro audio. I think its incredible he can get down below 20Hz with these types of numbers.

well when you put it that way i HATE pro audio drivers, HATE car audio drivers, heck most HT... I love high excursion, high bandwidth, low inductance drivers... i dont care for low excursion, light paper cone, acordian surround.... well... I am learning a lot about Tapped Horns...so I'll stop there
post #1228 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by craigsub View Post

Bosso, I like you, man, but at what point did asking specific questions about output become bad ?

Or are we to the point that certain designs can have 1 watt graphs posted from the manufacturer and then we decide that we can just add 33 dB to this output for a 2000 watt signal and call it a day ?

The point at which max output modeling became a bad thing is so far back I don't recall the date.

Horns in the pro sound shootout from a couple of years ago:


That's 1600W at 10 meters. Scale that to 1M.

When that manufacturer is Tom Danley... yes, we're at that point.

Bosso.
post #1229 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Palmer_Cass View Post

The Danley fireworks was recorded 1/2 mile from the fireworks. You want to ride the fireworks up into the sky so you can hear the real thing.

glad I wasn't taking a sip of anything while reading that, or I'd be wiping off my monitor right now
post #1230 of 9954
Quote:
Originally Posted by bossobass View Post

The point at which max output modeling became a bad thing is so far back I don't recall the date.

Horns in the pro sound shootout from a couple of years ago:


That's 1600W at 10 meters. Scale that to 1M.

When that manufacturer is Tom Danley... yes, we're at that point.

Bosso.

Ok ... so we add 20 dB and end up with what looks to be about 102 dB at 20 Hz and 135 dB at around 100 Hz.

I also don't recall Tom making the 123 dB claim at 11 Hz. He posted a graph showing 90 dB @ one watt.

Modeling could show whether the DTS is (in theory) capable of doing so (delivering 123 dB at 11 Hz).

I don't have modeling software for the TH design. If one takes the Lab-12's and looks at max output in a large, sealed enclosure, one will see about 93 dB for two of them at X-max (actually, this is a little past X-max).

Does the TH add 30 in output at 11 Hz ?

If it does, this would be quite the feat.
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