I was one of the last to jump on the DTS-10 bandwagon in late September, while the kits were still available. I knew there wasn't any way I'd have time to assemble the kit for the foreseeable future. However, I'm fortunate enough to live just a few miles from the manufacturer of the rest of my speakers - Merlin Music Systems http://www.merlinmusic.com/main.htm
Bill Hooper is the cabinet maker at Merlin and also builds pro-audio speakers for clients around the country. I knew if anybody could do a great job, Bill was the guy. Luckily for me Bill had some time in his schedule and took the project on. I asked Bill to jot down some notes on what he used during construction.
I am ever so happy with the DTS-10's performance in my system and the job Bill did with the construction. Following are Bill's notes and a couple pics of the finished product:
The glue is Titebond III - The ease of yellow glue with the strength of polyurethane glue plus elasticity.
The base paint (for build and sealing the wood) is a pro product called MAX-TEX (maximum texture) - A high solids acrylic that is usually applied with a texture roller. But I applied it with a1/4" nap roller to keep it smooth and to fill end grain and minor holes that may have been missed with the filler.
The finish paint is Sherwin-Williams Polene which was sprayed on first (3 smooth coats) then sprayed on textured 6- 8 splatter coats.
The body filler is a lightweight filler called RAGE although any type "Bondo" would work. I find this type easier to work with and sand. I also used red scratch putty for air holes in the Bondo or slight surface marks in the wood.
For the wiring I'm using a Neutriks 4 contact panel mount receptacle and the matching cable end. I've wired the one woofer "out of phase" right at the speaker so no special wiring on the speaker cable or the input cables is necessary. I've used 14ga 4 conductor multi-strand power cable for my speaker wire...the same I use on my pro stuff and have compared it to wire costing much more (in some cases 50 or 60 dollars a foot and it sounds just as good if not better).
I'm also used allen head machine screws and allen-head machine button head screws for the panels and grille only because they are black and allen-heads don't strip or cam out like a flat head or philips can. I've used allen-head socket head screws (all these are actually bolts even though they are called screws) for the woofer mounting also.
I've added a piece of .250" thick acoustic foam behind the grille (not included with the kit) to help keep dust etc out of the cabinet and to give it a more finished look. I do this on most of my pro stuff also for the same reason...except is not only dust but sweat, rain and beer.
I used all the screws holes during the gluing / assembly part of the operation but removed all of the screws and counter sunk all the ones on the interior of the outside panels and replaced the screws. I suppose I could have done the counter sink operation before assembly but either way I still would have done it to give the filler a better grip. The edge screws on the outside panels I did not replace so I could use a 1/2" round over bit to create the profile.
The raw box was sanded with 80 grit using an orbital sander and then again later after the MAX-TEX was applied, with 150 grit using a palm sander to knock down any "nubbies" left behind with that paint and minimize any tracks left by the roller. MAX-TEX is a roller or brush applied coating only. It is so thick that you can stand a paint brush up in it and it will just stay there.Attachment 229148Attachment 229149Attachment 229150