Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - Page 311

Most professional calibrators will use QSC, BSS, Symetrix, squirreled away DolbyLake, Bose Professional even, etc.

At the price point, and with the release of their 8x8 kit, more of us should probably re-familiarize ourselves with them. The product is not as full featured as the above mentioned, but impressive for the cost.

If they learned how to use those, the MDSP should be a piece of cake for them.

I had a QSC DSP30: I finally gave up on its klutzy/confusing interface and sold it.

The MDSP is way easier.

Unfortunately, easier to use is rarely the primary, secondary or even tertiary reason why I decide to use one component over another.

Kutlow: I may be interested - I am up in Huntsville, AL (we talked about me buying some of your dts-10s back in the day)

I used REW and minidsp (balanced) for my dts-10 and I am in love with it now (WHAT A DIFFERENCE!) not to mention with minidsp, I can change a LOT of the information very quickly and on the fly - makes it easy to adjust to your liking.

PS looking for 1 or 2 more DTS10s

I am about to finally get my 3 DTS 10'S set up with a high and low pass filters. Could you guys help me make sure I'm ordering the right cables etc. I'm ordering this Mini dsp
http://www.minidsp.com/products/mini...p-balanced-2x4

I'm also ordering this
http://www.minidsp.com/onlinestore/d...anced?sef=hcfp

to make the hookup I'm ordering these
1- 6in female xlr to Phoenix
3- xlr male to Phoenix
These will connect to my AV7005 processor and then Ill just hook up my existing xlr's to reach the amps.

I use xlr cables in my system. The support staff at MINI sent me this email message regarding the type of xlr cable that I need to hook this up with. I don't want to cut and splice my xlrs so Id rather buy the Phoenix to xlr. I noticed there are a couple variations talking about the pins etc. Here is what they sent me in a email.

Here is an example of a ready made cable: http://www.directproaudio.com/produc...directid=58259
Note however that this connector is using a reverse pin out on the Phoenix side. You just need to use a small screwdriver to match the correct pin out as per our user manual. No solder, no technical skills required for that simple modif.

could you guys google xlr to Phoenix and help me make sure I order the right ones ? Thanks in advance and Ill consider this my Christmas Present. lol

The 4-way is what you'll need and what I'm using.

Note that miniDSP will send you the actual phoenix connectors. with the unit. However, they will not have the xlr cable connected You'll have to connect them to a cable with a small flat head screwdriver. That either means you have to buy an xlr cable and take apart one of the xlr connectors and connect it to the phoenix connector - they have a manual online to show you how - or you'll have to buy phoenix connectors online and switch the connectors. It's very simple to do.

Let us know which route you'll be going and then we can tell you how many xlr cables and or phoenix connectors you should buy.

If you're taking apart existing cables and using the supplied phoenix connectors you just need to buy however many xlr cables you'll be using since they all have male and female.

If you're buying phoenix connectors online then you'll need 1 female - if you're only using 1 pre/pro - and 1 male for each amp. This is taking into account that you'll be using extension cables with the phoenix connectors because one's online are only 6 inches long.

You'll end up saving money by choosing the first option, but many of the xlr cables - including the one's from monoprice - have very thin wiring. Someone may be able to recommend you a cable that has a thicker gauge.

And what advantage would the thicker gauge offer-especially in an install situation?

Of course the answer is none. Wire gauge requirement is based on current draw. With interconnects it's barely measurable.

I was just wondering why he thought there would be an advantage-since he gave out the advice.

And to further expand on the real reason, it is because of the high impedance of the input stage. With a high impedance load, there is very little current flowing.

Decades ago, whe power transfer was standard, a larger wire (depending on the starting size) "could" make a difference-IF the length was long enough.

But that is not the case now, since we deal with voltage transfer-NOT power-on the signal level side of things.

Loudspeakers are a power transfer, so larger wire will make a difference-to a point.

I ordered 1 female xlr to phoenix cable to go from my Marantz AV7005 TO THE MINI DSP input:
http://www.directproaudio.com/produc...directid=58259

Then I ordered 3 male xlr to phoenix cables to go from the output on the MINI DSP which will then connect to my existing xlr's going into the inputs on my 2 crest amps. Ill run the amps in stereo mode so I can eq each sub independantly. Here is one.

http://www.directproaudio.com/produc...directid=58808

Am I doing this right?

I hope you ordered the specific pinouts for the phoenix cables you are using. There is no standard and different manufacturers wire them differently. If you got the wrong wiring, it may not work properly or not at all.

Trying to eq subs differently is not an easy feat. it is like trying to change the shape of a water balloon. When you push in one place, another place pushes out where you didn't want it to.

Full range products are easier.

But when you get down low, it gets hard. Not to say it can't be done, but you have to be very careful. WHile you may "fix it" in one seating location, you can make it worse in other seating positions.

It requires multiple measurements in different locations. When you have it where you want it in one place-then measure in another and see what you have. Adjust as needed-THEN GO BACK to the previous location and see if it has changed.

You CANNOT eq at one position-then move to the next and eq, then move to another and eq and "think" you are done. you HAVE to go to the previous positions and see what effects your last eq had on the early positions.

You might be surprised. Of course if there is only one position you are interested in, it is much easier.

Yes on the pin outs I have to look at the manual for the mini dsp and if I need to I can swap the wires around on the phoenix connecter with a small screwdriver. Thats what I was told.

I was one of the last to jump on the DTS-10 bandwagon in late September, while the kits were still available. I knew there wasn't any way I'd have time to assemble the kit for the foreseeable future. However, I'm fortunate enough to live just a few miles from the manufacturer of the rest of my speakers - Merlin Music Systems http://www.merlinmusic.com/main.htm Bill Hooper is the cabinet maker at Merlin and also builds pro-audio speakers for clients around the country. I knew if anybody could do a great job, Bill was the guy. Luckily for me Bill had some time in his schedule and took the project on. I asked Bill to jot down some notes on what he used during construction.

I am ever so happy with the DTS-10's performance in my system and the job Bill did with the construction. Following are Bill's notes and a couple pics of the finished product:

The glue is Titebond III - The ease of yellow glue with the strength of polyurethane glue plus elasticity.
The base paint (for build and sealing the wood) is a pro product called MAX-TEX (maximum texture) - A high solids acrylic that is usually applied with a texture roller. But I applied it with a1/4" nap roller to keep it smooth and to fill end grain and minor holes that may have been missed with the filler.
The finish paint is Sherwin-Williams Polene which was sprayed on first (3 smooth coats) then sprayed on textured 6- 8 splatter coats.
The body filler is a lightweight filler called RAGE although any type "Bondo" would work. I find this type easier to work with and sand. I also used red scratch putty for air holes in the Bondo or slight surface marks in the wood.
For the wiring I'm using a Neutriks 4 contact panel mount receptacle and the matching cable end. I've wired the one woofer "out of phase" right at the speaker so no special wiring on the speaker cable or the input cables is necessary. I've used 14ga 4 conductor multi-strand power cable for my speaker wire...the same I use on my pro stuff and have compared it to wire costing much more (in some cases 50 or 60 dollars a foot and it sounds just as good if not better).
I'm also used allen head machine screws and allen-head machine button head screws for the panels and grille only because they are black and allen-heads don't strip or cam out like a flat head or philips can. I've used allen-head socket head screws (all these are actually bolts even though they are called screws) for the woofer mounting also.
I've added a piece of .250" thick acoustic foam behind the grille (not included with the kit) to help keep dust etc out of the cabinet and to give it a more finished look. I do this on most of my pro stuff also for the same reason...except is not only dust but sweat, rain and beer.
I used all the screws holes during the gluing / assembly part of the operation but removed all of the screws and counter sunk all the ones on the interior of the outside panels and replaced the screws. I suppose I could have done the counter sink operation before assembly but either way I still would have done it to give the filler a better grip. The edge screws on the outside panels I did not replace so I could use a 1/2" round over bit to create the profile.
The raw box was sanded with 80 grit using an orbital sander and then again later after the MAX-TEX was applied, with 150 grit using a palm sander to knock down any "nubbies" left behind with that paint and minimize any tracks left by the roller. MAX-TEX is a roller or brush applied coating only. It is so thick that you can stand a paint brush up in it and it will just stay there.

Attachment 229148
Attachment 229149
Attachment 229150

genefass. thanks for the report, the finish looks spectacular, almost too good, I would hate to be the one who puts the first scratch in it !

Titebond III, hmmm, I will have to look into that as well.

I must hurry up and get to these, I feel like I am missing out!

You might want to rethink the acoustic foam behind the grill.

I agree with all of your reasons-HOWEVER the tapped horn is a different animal than regular loudspeakers.

When you combine the metal grill with the foam-it can "clog up" the exit to the tune of several dB loss (or more).

I would measure it with and without the foam.

On full range products, it will usually reduce the higher freq a little bit-but on tapped horn, you could lose quite a bit.

We tried a backing material (for all the reasons you stated), but realized that the loss of output was way to much, so we don't use it on the subs-but do on the full range products.

Just something to play with.

Things may be slower north of the border. I spent about 2 1/2 years redoing our kitchen. In reality I'm just very slow and had never done any of this kind of work before.

And we spent more than 4 hours building our single, but not a lot more. From the beginning I decided with something that huge in the house I better try to get my wife to be a part of it. So I got my totally non techie, non mechanical wife to help me build it. I think it helped a bunch in the WAF department!

Rod

Yes , I didn't think anybody except my wife was keeping track... and yes I know I am missing out.


Maybe Rod is right, it might be a Canadian thing, I too am doing everything myself, and completely changing that entire end of the house, removing walls, added an addition, re-orienting the kitchen, electrical, plumbing and the list goes on. Now in the middle of that re-did the landscaping out front, installed a new driveway and then re-roofed the workshop where the DTS's are hiding out, just putting the gutters back up yesterday.

I was one of the first to put in an order for 2 DTS's in the spring, I thought that I would get them delivered, build them quickly before anybody noticed and enjoy them for a few months before re-doing the theater, opps I guess that saying is right: The best laid plans of mice and men...

Very nice genefass. Are you aware that the DTS-10 is available, anytime, in complete form from a DSL dealer? I wonder what the $$ would have been.

Im about to install my mini 2 x 4 balanced dsp. I do not have REW but for the meantime I want to apply the Danley filters like the HP, LP and the 54 htz etc. Can you guys post what your settings are in your mini so I can do this in the meantime untill my buddy comes over with REW. I need to know which filter are best the Butterworth etc. I know Im trying my best. So please post the Danley recommended settings plus where you guys are applying boost to get more punch in certain fre areas. Thanks in advance.

PEQ minus 8.4dB @ 55Hz, Q=8.9 BW=0.162 BFD=9.7
PEQ minus 4.6dB, @ 29Hz, Q=5 BW=0.2881 BFD=17.3
PEQ minus 7.5dB @ 84Hz, Q=2.8 BW=0.5125 BFD=30.8
PEQ minus 14.4dB @ 154Hz, Q=1.1 BW=1.2701 BFD=76.2

I added a 3db gain at 20hz (forget the width) for personal taste.

Talk about weird. I been dating a woman who's last name is Danley! lmao Too bad she isnt related or id be king of the bass!

I hope that is her last name

Has anyone added boost in certain freq to get more punch? I just hooked up my mini dsp. I put the hp filter in. I wont be able to get REW ran until someone comes and does it for me. Im just curious if anyone can post the boost levels they applied.

I have two DTS-10 kits just sitting around waiting for my theater room to get finished (one assembled) along with two Behringer ep4000 amps and a miniDSP. I also have two Atlantic Technology 642e subwoofers that are part of my 8200e set. I definitely plan on using the 8200e speakers in the new room, but I'm unsure if the Danley DTS-10 subs will play nice with the Atlantic Tech 642e subs. I was thinking maybe the Danleys hang out behind the screen wall and the Atlantic Tech subs can sit behind the sitting area on the risers. Looking for opinions on whether anyone thinks these two different sub types have a chance of working out. Otherwise, I'm going to put the two Atlantic Tech subs up for sale so I can direct the money elsewhere.

Kutlow, you may have missed the above comment regarding my boost.

DJ, most opinion on this thread will say that it's not a good idea. However, I have a local friend, Tom Hilton (on this thread) that is using a DTS10 along with a sealed sub and a ported sub (SVS) and his base sounds great to my ears. On that experience, I'd have to say give it a shot! But to back up a bit. It would highly surprise me if you felt the need for them after building and tuning the pair of DTS10's.

Side note: My wife and kids were watching HP Deathly Hallows2 yesterday and I went upstairs to bed. It was the first time in four years that I'd been in the bedroom with a movie playing. My bed is directly above the theater room. It was a scary, violent experience. It felt as though there were a guy on either side of the bed hitting the frame with sledgehammer's. Many steps more visceral than my listening position in the room. So how do I capture that in the theater? Put the subs in the bedroom?

It can be done but usually it is somewhat difficult to do. Good luck!

Yes. Take the bed frame out of the room, arrange the 2 DTS-10's on the floor where the bed used to be and bolt them together. Put the mattress and bedding back on top of the DTS-10's. Voila!

Talk about high WAF.

And a whole new marketing campain.