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Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - Page 319

post #9541 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow View Post

for those of you that have the mini dsp hooked up to these subs can you tell me where you apply boost at and by how much.
It will be different in every room. You have to measure the in-room response and set the DSP accordingly.
post #9542 of 10012
Chest slap bass is iirc 60hz to 120hz, and maybe varies depending on the size of the chest internally. A pair of decent efficiency 15" no special excursion tuned high like in a PA drivers should be plenty for the effect in most house sized rooms. Maybe even one of the super cheap current crop of 18" depending on box tuning.
post #9543 of 10012
Asking in this thread may produce a biased opinion, but I shall ask anyway. wink.gif What are your thoughts on 1 DTS-10 vs two MFW-15 Turbo's?
post #9544 of 10012
Thread Starter 
They aren't making the mfw's anymore are they? Support would be a big deal if that's the case.

There is a lot of info and comparison in this thread. I don't know if any direct comparison has been made with the mfw but I would think a single dts-10 would outperform a pair of those for sound quality, output, and extension. Check out the measurements on databass and it may help out some.
post #9545 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

They aren't making the mfw's anymore are they? Support would be a big deal if that's the case.
There is a lot of info and comparison in this thread. I don't know if any direct comparison has been made with the mfw but I would think a single dts-10 would outperform a pair of those for sound quality, output, and extension. Check out the measurements on databass and it may help out some.

Yeah, no more MFW's. But I already have two that I'm thinking about upgrading to Turbo's, which are said to put out double the output and sound much better/cleaner? I guess size would be another big issue. Moving around a pair of MFW's vs a DTS-10 sure would be easier. biggrin.gif
I searched this thread for MFW references, and I think it was you that said a single DTS-10 should outperform 3 MFW's. But those are stock. confused.gif
post #9546 of 10012
Thread Starter 
Putting the turbo on them won't add as much as you think. All you're doing is lengthening the ports. The gain in SPL, if any, will be centered around a certain frequency and above. The limits of the driver and alignment won't change.

My previous sub was an 18" in a big box with a long port. I am confident 1 of the DTS-10 will have better returns than 2 of my previous subs. Possibly 3.
post #9547 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by skid_68 View Post

Yeah, no more MFW's. But I already have two that I'm thinking about upgrading to Turbo's, which are said to put out double the output and sound much better/cleaner? I guess size would be another big issue. Moving around a pair of MFW's vs a DTS-10 sure would be easier. biggrin.gif
I searched this thread for MFW references, and I think it was you that said a single DTS-10 should outperform 3 MFW's. But those are stock. confused.gif
"What exaclty do you mean by "double the output". Generally 10dB is considered to be twice the apparent level. No way you are going to get that.

Maybe a couple of dB at some freq-but not across the whole operating band.

Consider that 3dB is doubling of wattage-NOT apparent level. Also consider that 3dB is about 1 "click" on your typical volume control remote. Not a huge amount in level-but sometimes hard to an extra 3dB.
post #9548 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

Putting the turbo on them won't add as much as you think. All you're doing is lengthening the ports. The gain in SPL, if any, will be centered around a certain frequency and above. The limits of the driver and alignment won't change.
confused.gif

It replaces both the driver and amp with more substantial parts. This isn't HSU we're talking about.
post #9549 of 10012
Thread Starter 
OK, I remember which one now. The upgraded driver and the Dayton rack mount 1000 watt amp clone. I still think it would take more than 2 to equal the dts-10.
post #9550 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

"What exaclty do you mean by "double the output". Generally 10dB is considered to be twice the apparent level. No way you are going to get that.
Maybe a couple of dB at some freq-but not across the whole operating band.
Consider that 3dB is doubling of wattage-NOT apparent level. Also consider that 3dB is about 1 "click" on your typical volume control remote. Not a huge amount in level-but sometimes hard to an extra 3dB.

I've seen Sandbagger mention this a couple of times. Here is one quote along the same lines:
Quote:
Originally Posted by sandbagger View Post

Let me just say that a Single Turbo will give you the same or a little more output than the duals you had now. with much better sound quality than before.

Thoughts? Anyone heard both the DTS-10 and Turbo's?
post #9551 of 10012
DTS-10's all the way!
post #9552 of 10012
The MFWs are ported to 19-20 so if output to 10Hz is important to you, then the Danley is prob a better choice.

It would be interesting to see two MCCA turbos up against the DTS-10. I wouldn't count two turbos out from 20 on up against the Danley though, you might be surprised. Two subs also have the benefit of multiple placements FWIW.
post #9553 of 10012
Well, there has not been a commercial product to beat the DTS-10 from 12.5 hz and up so I don't expect the MFW turbos either. It takes two VS 18.1's from chase to equal the DTS-10 and those are 18's. It takes two rythmiks to equal a DTS-10(3 at 16hz) so I don't expect the turbos to be better.
post #9554 of 10012
And it takes a lot in the DIY arena to get that carrot also. You'll exceed in either driver quantity, cabinet size, or kw power to equal a dts-10. Like my buddy always tells me it's funny cause it's true.wink.gif

Now if I could just get the girl to stop watching The Avengers over and over while I'm gone.
post #9555 of 10012
i just looked at the danley website, and i can't be sure, but it looks like the dts-10 now comes with a opening on the narrow side, making them ready for riser duty?

can anyone that got one recently confirm?
post #9556 of 10012
Yes, I'm pretty sure it does.
post #9557 of 10012
That's a cool design change. It really lends itself to more options. I wish mine had that setup.mad.gif
post #9558 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

That's a cool design change. It really lends itself to more options. I wish mine had that setup.mad.gif

That is the only way I would want mine built. I was looking at the Housewrecker and imagining it in multiples just for the purpose of a riser. Easily placed and does not take up any extra "area" in the room.

Keep cranking

Robert
post #9559 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

That's a cool design change. It really lends itself to more options. I wish mine had that setup.mad.gif

It's always been an option to have the DTS-10 mouth exit there by cutting in your own opening; obviously not nearly as convenient as if it came from the factory that way, but still an option. wink.gif
post #9560 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Smith View Post

It's always been an option to have the DTS-10 mouth exit there by cutting in your own opening; obviously not nearly as convenient as if it came from the factory that way, but still an option. wink.gif

Of course, but ya having factory panels is much nicer.
post #9561 of 10012
Every get tired of people asking "what's in there!?!?", when they look at your DTS-10?
Ever want to watch the excursion during testing? Ever want to check your wiring configuration without removing the access panel?

I did, so I decided to make an acrylic panel for it. 1/2 thick with 3/16" dado and countersunk holes.

Edited by jpmst3 - 1/26/13 at 4:37pm
post #9562 of 10012
Thread Starter 
We want videos!
post #9563 of 10012
All I have is cell phone for video. I have to do some testing to see if there are leaks and replace the gasket material around the panel. The stuff that is in there is completely flattened.
post #9564 of 10012
I just watched a few minutes of some Blu-Ray demo disc content. It is cool to get a chance to watch the excursion.
I think it was a worthwhile change. I might make another panel for the other side and throw some LED lighting in.
post #9565 of 10012
Cell phone video is fine! Cool mod!
post #9566 of 10012
I am trying to sell my house and currently am storing my two DTS-10s in my parents garage. Is there anything I should do to keep them safe or will they be okay in a garage for a few months?
post #9567 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcallister View Post

I am trying to sell my house and currently am storing my two DTS-10s in my parents garage. Is there anything I should do to keep them safe or will they be okay in a garage for a few months?

They should be fine as long as you can control the moisture. Keep them up off the floor and avoid direct contact with cement, etc.
post #9568 of 10012
I have a DTS-10 and am now working to get it hooked up. I'm going to drive it with a Behringer Europower 4000W amp. When I built it, I added independent inputs for each driver. Now, I need help understanding how to hook it up:

I've read that each channel can be hooked up to teh amp as labeled (+ to + on the left to driver 1, and the same on channel 2). This is due to the fact that the amp's channels are out of phase. Is this correct? Is this the preferred way to connect the sub?

I have a Behringer Feedback destroyer pro that I'd like to add to the mix. How do I connect this? What is the wiring path from the sub output of my received (Denon AVR-3311-CI)?

How do I tweak the BFDP to maximize the subs output and smooth the curve?

Thanks for helping me out!
post #9569 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

I have a DTS-10 and am now working to get it hooked up. I'm going to drive it with a Behringer Europower 4000W amp. When I built it, I added independent inputs for each driver. Now, I need help understanding how to hook it up:

I've read that each channel can be hooked up to teh amp as labeled (+ to + on the left to driver 1, and the same on channel 2). This is due to the fact that the amp's channels are out of phase. Is this correct? Is this the preferred way to connect the sub?

This is the same setup I have. Put the EP4000 in bridged mode and connect it as you mentioned. Bridged mode will reverse polarity on channel 2 which puts the 2 drivers in sync. Turn the gain all the way down on channel 2 and use the gain control for channel 1 to set gain for both channels.
post #9570 of 10012
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

I have a DTS-10 and am now working to get it hooked up. I'm going to drive it with a Behringer Europower 4000W amp. When I built it, I added independent inputs for each driver. Now, I need help understanding how to hook it up:

I've read that each channel can be hooked up to teh amp as labeled (+ to + on the left to driver 1, and the same on channel 2). This is due to the fact that the amp's channels are out of phase. Is this correct? Is this the preferred way to connect the sub?

I have a Behringer Feedback destroyer pro that I'd like to add to the mix. How do I connect this? What is the wiring path from the sub output of my received (Denon AVR-3311-CI)?

How do I tweak the BFDP to maximize the subs output and smooth the curve?

Thanks for helping me out!

The bfd will be hooked in pre amp. Go from your sub out from your receiver to the back of the bfd. You will need to buy a RCA>xlr cable. Then use a xlr to xlr from bfd to the amp.

You will need to go to home theater shack and download room eq wizard to run test tones thru the sub to see where it is spiking if you want to mold it to your room or simply use the parameters used earlier in the thread to smooth response at the mouth of the sub.
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