Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - Page 327

Ivan is a BC 412 OR THE TH412 good for home theater?

That is EXACTLY why it makes sense. SInce you also directly feel the vibration-you would be able to run it at lower levels-so you disturb the neighbors (as much anyway). Put it on some rubber isolators and that will help to decouple it from the building structure.

You can always turn it down. Most people have a problem getting enough SPL-not having to much

Both of those would be considered more a "concert level sub" than a home theater. Most home theaters need to go lower than either of these.

They are designed more for output-rather then low freq extension.

But for stupid loud FUN music-then they are great

There may be some other subs on the way-one REALLY interesting one-but it is a little ways off-lots of projects to work on.

Please push for it. Id like to see a dual 15 Tapped Horn. Basically like to have 2 of whatever and be done. I would like to have 135 db at my listening position 14 feet back.

At what frequencies? Why so high? I can hit 130 dBs 15 feet away at 10hz but during movies I barely hit 115 dBs at 10hz. I can hit over 126 dBs from 20-50hz running the subs 10dBs hot.

I dont know MK. I would like something like a dts 10 but about 20% stronger. Ivan what do you think about the DBH218LC


I would like another DIY project like DBH218LC kit. I remember hearing those and they sounded great. I think 2 of those would be all I need.

Can you turn up the DTS10's about 5 dBs without any troubles? If you can then there is no need to change anything.

Build a couple of Ricci's GJALLARHORNs!

After looking up the GJALLARHORNS I think if I were to do the LMSR Driver upgrade on my 3 DTS10's I would be very happy. It is cheaper to do that than build 2 of these. Can someone make a graph showing what 3 DTS 10'S with the LMS upgrade would do against 2 GJALLARHORNS please? Thanks in advance. I am determined to get this part of my theater right.

You could use the much cheaper UXL-18 in each cabinet at half price with probably 95% of the performance....although there are no official test results.
If not, build 4 for the price of 2 and make sure!

Either way 2 GJALLARHORNS with LMS drivers vs. 3 DTS-10s with LMSR drivers would be close.

Yes that is what I am thinking. Dropping in 6 drivers would be an easy fix too and one I could do in an evening. Is it possible to do a graph showing this?

Don't forget you have to modify the cabs and add spacer rings too.

I would like to see that graph as well.

Well, two LMSR DTS10's would out perform 1 GH(except at 40hz) and one would outperform 1 GH from 12.5hz and under. I think 3 would be real close to two GH's. Is space already maxed out?

THe DBH218LC doesn't go anywhere near as low as the DTS10. But they do go a lot louder.
It is a tradeoff of one for the other.

Don't hold your breath on a DBH kit.

Do you think a DBH 218LC could be mixed in with 3 DTS?

i HAVE THE THREE dts10 behind my screen. The GH would not fit.

Then it is a non-issue, just do the driver swap.

Calling on Croc....Hurry up with those LMSR'S. Im getting antsy. lol

Not only that, since the sub is closer to the listeners it's louder and needn't be driven as hard.

Thank you for your replies to my posts, all


I have to say, I feel very lucky - my place is first floor and also top floor (it's only a small block of six and I am on one end), and is connected to my only sideways neighbour by about 4ft of wall (where the alcove is), so only my downstairs neighbour is a real issue (and they are young and out a lot, fortunately!)

The building construction is also concrete blocks with brick facings to the outside (and dividing the flats sideways) with the usual plasterboard/insulation setup inside, with a concrete skim floor over what I presume is the usual wooden joists and insulation, with double glazing as well, so even running it at about -17, as long as I keep the lounge door closed and the front door double-locked (to stop it rattling ) you can stand in the entrance hallway downstairs and only really hear a faint bassline

So far no complaints about my SVS PB12/Plus2! (Not that I know of, anyway - I probably couldn't hear someone knocking on the front door or ringing the intercom... lol) Although I appreciate a DTS-10 is a different ballpark...


I hadn't really considered using a DTS-10 as a riser because I was worried about room nulls - the SVS felt a lot weaker and had several quiet spots when it was out in the room rather than tucked in the alcove; moving it really seems to have smoothed out any peaks/troughs in volume across the room and reinforced the bass! But I will definitely think about a riser setup, although I may need to do some additional woodwork to support the sofa at the ends... lol

Thank you again, all!

Nah, just get two!

The more the merrier

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Just ask anybody who has two or more

I been away for the weekend. Tell me what you think?

If nothing else, it sure looks more impressive,

And there is bite to back up the bark....

Hey tell me if you can tell a difference?

So far, I am really impressed. We all already know the test results between the two from seeing it on Data-Bass, so I will not go into detail on that. Here is how I hooked them up so that you know that I am doing a direct comparison between the two. I have the Danley running off of one channel (drivers wired in Parallel) of a Marathon MA-5050 which is rated at 2500W @ a 2ohm load. I have the other MA-5050 bridged with the LMSR Drivers wired in series which is rated at 3600W @ an 8ohm load. I then level set each cabinet with my trusty Galaxy CM-160 decibel meter. (I have found the Radio Shack that I have, to be less accurate) For the sake of a direct comparison, I removed the MiniDSP from the Danley and only used the 80 Hz LP Filter on my AVR.

I then popped in my usual listening demo discs and would listen to one sub, then switch over to the other and listen to the same scene over again. I have the Dbl meter sitting at the LP exactly in the middle between the subs. Depending on the movie and frequency of the peak SPL, I was seeing at least 2 dbl’s and as much as 6 dbl’s more with the LMSR’s. I don’t know why there was such a difference, maybe it is because one cabinet has 3600W on tap while the other only has 2500W. We already know the Danley has more sensitivity, so it should be doing really well on 2500W IMO. It could also have a lot to do with room gain, but I didn’t see this same level of output when both DTS-10’s were playing.

I can tell you that the LMSR's seem to (and does) have more output on tap, and it didn’t even seem like I was pushing it that hard, the Danley on the other hand was at or near its limits at times. My wife was upstairs and thought that I had all the subs going, and actually I only had the one LMSR playing at that time. The real reason I went for the upgrade was because of the noises coming from the Danley drivers during certain movies at demo levels. I didn’t notice any noises at the same volume levels with the LMSR’s, and believe me; I was listening for it with my head next to the mouth…ouch!

I ran a frequency sweep at the mouth of each as can be seen below. I can’t wait to get some EQ applied and then really do some more critical listening. I know this all purely subjective until I have the measurements in the exact same place, but I was not that motivated to move the boxes around. More to come on that.

Good deal!

Glad you are experiencing the benefits.

It was a worthwhile upgrade for ME. If people are not at the limits of their current drivers and listen to them at “normal levels”, it would be a complete waste of money for them. If you are like ME, and are at the limits already, and/or want a little more grunt out of the cabinet this is a worthwhile upgrade. I can’t wait to get the other cabinet done now…