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Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - Page 327

post #9781 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

If I was going to spend that kind of money-and time, I would want to be SURE that what I did was worthwhile-or not before I recommend it to somebody else (unless you just trying to sell the cabinets then
wink.gif.

About the only way to do that would be to take accurate-calibrated measurements in the exact same place-with the same drive levels noted-(baseline and max) before and after. Then compare them.

If you don't-then it is PURELY subjective-since there will be a good time interval between listening to one then the other. And of COURSE you want it to sound better-so you would naturally think that.

Measurements are about the only way to take the "subjective" out of the equation.

But they have to be done RIGHT-or it is pretty much worthless.

Ivan is a BC 412 OR THE TH412 good for home theater?
post #9782 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by MemX View Post

I actually measured up the sofa and how it might fit under it biggrin.gif but If I did put it in the room somewhere, especially on the floor, I fear complaints biggrin.gif lol

My main issue is I'm in a first floor flat, and the alcove I would want it to fit into is above the flats' entrance hallway (therefore doesn't bother downstairs *quite* so much tongue.gif) but only about 45" wide, and to make one fit would mean removing skirting board, removing plug sockets and aerial sockets and moving them further along the wall, finding somewhere for the separate amp, placating the missus... lol


I do really want one though frown.gif

Dammit!
That is EXACTLY why it makes sense. SInce you also directly feel the vibration-you would be able to run it at lower levels-so you disturb the neighbors (as much anyway). Put it on some rubber isolators and that will help to decouple it from the building structure.

You can always turn it down. Most people have a problem getting enough SPL-not having to much
post #9783 of 10012
Both of those would be considered more a "concert level sub" than a home theater. Most home theaters need to go lower than either of these.

They are designed more for output-rather then low freq extension.

But for stupid loud FUN music-then they are great smile.gif

There may be some other subs on the way-one REALLY interesting one-but it is a little ways off-lots of projects to work on.
post #9784 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

Both of those would be considered more a "concert level sub" than a home theater. Most home theaters need to go lower than either of these.

They are designed more for output-rather then low freq extension.

But for stupid loud FUN music-then they are great smile.gif

There may be some other subs on the way-one REALLY interesting one-but it is a little ways off-lots of projects to work on.

Please push for it. Id like to see a dual 15 Tapped Horn. Basically like to have 2 of whatever and be done. I would like to have 135 db at my listening position 14 feet back.
post #9785 of 10012
At what frequencies? Why so high? I can hit 130 dBs 15 feet away at 10hz but during movies I barely hit 115 dBs at 10hz. I can hit over 126 dBs from 20-50hz running the subs 10dBs hot.
post #9786 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

Both of those would be considered more a "concert level sub" than a home theater. Most home theaters need to go lower than either of these.

They are designed more for output-rather then low freq extension.

But for stupid loud FUN music-then they are great smile.gif

There may be some other subs on the way-one REALLY interesting one-but it is a little ways off-lots of projects to work on.
I dont know MK. I would like something like a dts 10 but about 20% stronger. Ivan what do you think about the DBH218LC


I would like another DIY project like DBH218LC kit. I remember hearing those and they sounded great. I think 2 of those would be all I need.
post #9787 of 10012
Can you turn up the DTS10's about 5 dBs without any troubles? If you can then there is no need to change anything.
post #9788 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow View Post

I dont know MK. I would like something like a dts 10 but about 20% stronger.

Build a couple of Ricci's GJALLARHORNs!
post #9789 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

Build a couple of Ricci's GJALLARHORNs!

After looking up the GJALLARHORNS I think if I were to do the LMSR Driver upgrade on my 3 DTS10's I would be very happy. It is cheaper to do that than build 2 of these. Can someone make a graph showing what 3 DTS 10'S with the LMS upgrade would do against 2 GJALLARHORNS please? Thanks in advance. I am determined to get this part of my theater right.
post #9790 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow View Post

After looking up the GJALLARHORNS I think if I were to do the LMSR Driver upgrade on my 3 DTS10's I would be very happy. It is cheaper to do that than build 2 of these. Can someone make a graph showing what 3 DTS 10'S with the LMS upgrade would do against 2 GJALLARHORNS please? Thanks in advance. I am determined to get this part of my theater right.

You could use the much cheaper UXL-18 in each cabinet at half price with probably 95% of the performance....although there are no official test results.
If not, build 4 for the price of 2 and make sure!

Either way 2 GJALLARHORNS with LMS drivers vs. 3 DTS-10s with LMSR drivers would be close.
post #9791 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

You could use the much cheaper UXL-18 in each cabinet at half price with probably 95% of the performance....although there are no official test results.
If not, build 4 for the price of 2 and make sure!

Either way 2 GJALLARHORNS with LMS drivers vs. 3 DTS-10s with LMSR drivers would be close.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

You could use the much cheaper UXL-18 in each cabinet at half price with probably 95% of the performance....although there are no official test results.
If not, build 4 for the price of 2 and make sure!

Either way 2 GJALLARHORNS with LMS drivers vs. 3 DTS-10s with LMSR drivers would be close.

Yes that is what I am thinking. Dropping in 6 drivers would be an easy fix too and one I could do in an evening. Is it possible to do a graph showing this?
post #9792 of 10012
Don't forget you have to modify the cabs and add spacer rings too.

I would like to see that graph as well.
post #9793 of 10012
Well, two LMSR DTS10's would out perform 1 GH(except at 40hz) and one would outperform 1 GH from 12.5hz and under. I think 3 would be real close to two GH's. Is space already maxed out?
post #9794 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow View Post

I dont know MK. I would like something like a dts 10 but about 20% stronger. Ivan what do you think about the DBH218LC


I would like another DIY project like DBH218LC kit. I remember hearing those and they sounded great. I think 2 of those would be all I need.
THe DBH218LC doesn't go anywhere near as low as the DTS10. But they do go a lot louder.
It is a tradeoff of one for the other.

Don't hold your breath on a DBH kit.
post #9795 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

THe DBH218LC doesn't go anywhere near as low as the DTS10. But they do go a lot louder.
It is a tradeoff of one for the other.

Don't hold your breath on a DBH kit.

Do you think a DBH 218LC could be mixed in with 3 DTS?
post #9796 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

Well, two LMSR DTS10's would out perform 1 GH(except at 40hz) and one would outperform 1 GH from 12.5hz and under. I think 3 would be real close to two GH's. Is space already maxed out?

i HAVE THE THREE dts10 behind my screen. The GH would not fit.
post #9797 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow View Post

i HAVE THE THREE dts10 behind my screen. The GH would not fit.

Then it is a non-issue, just do the driver swap. wink.gif
post #9798 of 10012
Calling on Croc....Hurry up with those LMSR'S. Im getting antsy. lol
post #9799 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

That is EXACTLY why it makes sense. SInce you also directly feel the vibration-you would be able to run it at lower levels-so you disturb the neighbors (as much anyway).

Not only that, since the sub is closer to the listeners it's louder and needn't be driven as hard.
post #9800 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

If by flat you mean an apartment, forget about it, unless getting evicted is part of your master plan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

+1

Unless your entire building is made of reinforced concrete decking/walls, you will never be able to utilize even 10% of it without making waves (no pun intended) with your neighbors.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

That is EXACTLY why it makes sense. SInce you also directly feel the vibration-you would be able to run it at lower levels-so you disturb the neighbors (as much anyway). Put it on some rubber isolators and that will help to decouple it from the building structure.

You can always turn it down. Most people have a problem getting enough SPL-not having to much
Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

Not only that, since the sub is closer to the listeners it's louder and needn't be driven as hard.
Thank you for your replies to my posts, all smile.gif


I have to say, I feel very lucky - my place is first floor and also top floor (it's only a small block of six and I am on one end), and is connected to my only sideways neighbour by about 4ft of wall (where the alcove is), so only my downstairs neighbour is a real issue (and they are young and out a lot, fortunately!)

The building construction is also concrete blocks with brick facings to the outside (and dividing the flats sideways) with the usual plasterboard/insulation setup inside, with a concrete skim floor over what I presume is the usual wooden joists and insulation, with double glazing as well, so even running it at about -17, as long as I keep the lounge door closed and the front door double-locked (to stop it rattling tongue.gif) you can stand in the entrance hallway downstairs and only really hear a faint bassline smile.gif

So far no complaints about my SVS PB12/Plus2! (Not that I know of, anyway - I probably couldn't hear someone knocking on the front door or ringing the intercom... lol) Although I appreciate a DTS-10 is a different ballpark... cool.gif


I hadn't really considered using a DTS-10 as a riser because I was worried about room nulls - the SVS felt a lot weaker and had several quiet spots when it was out in the room rather than tucked in the alcove; moving it really seems to have smoothed out any peaks/troughs in volume across the room and reinforced the bass! But I will definitely think about a riser setup, although I may need to do some additional woodwork to support the sofa at the ends... lol

Thank you again, all! smile.gif
post #9801 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by MemX View Post


But I will definitely think about a riser setup, although I may need to do some additional woodwork to support the sofa at the ends... lol

Nah, just get two!
post #9802 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

Nah, just get two!
The more the merrier
Just ask anybody who has two or more smile.gif
post #9803 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow View Post

Calling on Croc....Hurry up with those LMSR'S. Im getting antsy. lol




smile.gif
post #9804 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrocDoc View Post




smile.gif

I been away for the weekend. Tell me what you think?
post #9805 of 10012
If nothing else, it sure looks more impressive,
post #9806 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

If nothing else, it sure looks more impressive,

And there is bite to back up the bark....
wink.gif
post #9807 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrocDoc View Post

And there is bite to back up the bark....
wink.gif

Hey tell me if you can tell a difference?
post #9808 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow View Post

Hey tell me if you can tell a difference?

So far, I am really impressed. We all already know the test results between the two from seeing it on Data-Bass, so I will not go into detail on that. Here is how I hooked them up so that you know that I am doing a direct comparison between the two. I have the Danley running off of one channel (drivers wired in Parallel) of a Marathon MA-5050 which is rated at 2500W @ a 2ohm load. I have the other MA-5050 bridged with the LMSR Drivers wired in series which is rated at 3600W @ an 8ohm load. I then level set each cabinet with my trusty Galaxy CM-160 decibel meter. (I have found the Radio Shack that I have, to be less accurate) For the sake of a direct comparison, I removed the MiniDSP from the Danley and only used the 80 Hz LP Filter on my AVR.

I then popped in my usual listening demo discs and would listen to one sub, then switch over to the other and listen to the same scene over again. I have the Dbl meter sitting at the LP exactly in the middle between the subs. Depending on the movie and frequency of the peak SPL, I was seeing at least 2 dbl’s and as much as 6 dbl’s more with the LMSR’s. I don’t know why there was such a difference, maybe it is because one cabinet has 3600W on tap while the other only has 2500W. We already know the Danley has more sensitivity, so it should be doing really well on 2500W IMO. It could also have a lot to do with room gain, but I didn’t see this same level of output when both DTS-10’s were playing.

I can tell you that the LMSR's seem to (and does) have more output on tap, and it didn’t even seem like I was pushing it that hard, the Danley on the other hand was at or near its limits at times. My wife was upstairs and thought that I had all the subs going, and actually I only had the one LMSR playing at that time. The real reason I went for the upgrade was because of the noises coming from the Danley drivers during certain movies at demo levels. I didn’t notice any noises at the same volume levels with the LMSR’s, and believe me; I was listening for it with my head next to the mouth…ouch!

I ran a frequency sweep at the mouth of each as can be seen below. I can’t wait to get some EQ applied and then really do some more critical listening. I know this all purely subjective until I have the measurements in the exact same place, but I was not that motivated to move the boxes around. More to come on that.


post #9809 of 10012
Good deal!

Glad you are experiencing the benefits. cool.gif
post #9810 of 10012
It was a worthwhile upgrade for ME. If people are not at the limits of their current drivers and listen to them at “normal levels”, it would be a complete waste of money for them. If you are like ME, and are at the limits already, and/or want a little more grunt out of the cabinet this is a worthwhile upgrade. I can’t wait to get the other cabinet done now…
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