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Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - Page 330

post #9871 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

It is a very radical idea that Tom is playing around with-along with all the other stuff going on.

It will be MUCH smaller than the DTS10 and probably won't go quite as loud.

I will not say anything else-until we get closer to finishing it.

But let's just say it is not normal by any means.
I like the sound of 'not normal' biggrin.gif
post #9872 of 10012
If I lived closer to Danley I would sweep the floors for free!
post #9873 of 10012
I love it when people like Danley post. There is so much noise on boards like this. Seriously, people, do a search for his posts and learn something about audio. ThomasW and DaveF posts are also very good..
post #9874 of 10012
Putting my order in tomorrow morning with Parts express.
post #9875 of 10012
I dropped pursuing further drivers. The Bl^2/Re/Sd ratio's are all too high or very weak. The Danley dts spec lab and LMS-R are in the .20 range with equal motor strength. To me what separates them is xmax. Kutlow I'm still waiting on one more email and then I'll PM about your drivers for sale.

Going to work on my mains instead. Dual 10" tower builds x5. Delta10a's already arrived. making 10 of them so far. First things first. . . juice. These came in to replace the epq1200s which will be for sale next month.
post #9876 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

It is a very radical idea that Tom is playing around with-along with all the other stuff going on.

It will be MUCH smaller than the DTS10 and probably won't go quite as loud.

I will not say anything else-until we get closer to finishing it.

But let's just say it is not normal by any means.

Well crap.....after trolling these forums for the past few years I just pulled the trigger on 2 DTS-10 kits this Dec. )-:
post #9877 of 10012
I have a quick question. I have to rewire my new LMSR Drivers inside my dts 10's. I use 12 awg speaker wire from my amps to the cabinet and right now have 12 awg wire inside the cabinet for the stock drivers. I do not have anymore of that 12 awg but have 14 awg speaker wire. Would that be ok to wire these LMSR'S or should I go buy 12 AWG wire?
post #9878 of 10012
nevermind. I ordered 12 awg
post #9879 of 10012
I gave in last year and put in 10awg Belden 5T00UP biggrin.gif
Won't fit most connectors so used ring terminals from fastenal and went to HD bind posts. Amp side directly with more ring terminals to the bind posts.
PITA to run with all the twists per foot. Overkill, but isn't that the game we're playing.
post #9880 of 10012
Question for people that have built/have DTS-10's. Is it ok to put casters on the cabinets? Didn't want to go forward with buying some, worried about vibrations and such.
post #9881 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jindrak View Post

Question for people that have built/have DTS-10's. Is it ok to put casters on the cabinets? Didn't want to go forward with buying some, worried about vibrations and such.

Mine have heavy duty casters from lowes. 300 lb version x 4 Needed heavy duty cause it's two cabs stacked. Makes moving it in and out easy when unbolting from my steel square tubing ceiling truss braces.

post #9882 of 10012
I keep mine on those plastic/foam furniture sliders/pucks. It uncouples it from the floor and slides around with one hand to clean, etc.
post #9883 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by MannoftheHoff View Post

Well crap.....after trolling these forums for the past few years I just pulled the trigger on 2 DTS-10 kits this Dec. )-:
Have you built them yet?

If you haven't, I think once you have built them you wouldn't worry about getting anything else, going from what owners have said smile.gif
post #9884 of 10012
So, since I'm getting 2 DTS-10's, I'd like to run both of them off of a Behringer EP4000, one on each channel. (Don't want to bridge it. Reason for this is I cannot get another one at the moment). Is there anything special I should do for the dip switches for regular stereo mode on the Ep4000?

Since you can wire the DTS in a way so that you only need 1 pair of binding posts for each cabinet, it makes it easier to use both channels on the 1 EP4000.
post #9885 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jindrak View Post

So, since I'm getting 2 DTS-10's, I'd like to run both of them off of a Behringer EP4000, one on each channel. (Don't want to bridge it. Reason for this is I cannot get another one at the moment). Is there anything special I should do for the dip switches for regular stereo mode on the Ep4000?

Since you can wire the DTS in a way so that you only need 1 pair of binding posts for each cabinet, it makes it easier to use both channels on the 1 EP4000.
I would run one cabinet per channel like you say.

I don't know it the amp has a "parallel input" switch on it or not. If it does-then put it (or both of them as the case may be) in the parallel mode-or mono mode. NOT Bridge mono mode.

If it doesn't have a parallel or mono switch-then just parallel the inputs via a Y cable and drive it off of your sub or LFE output.
post #9886 of 10012
As Ivan suggests put in parallel mode so you only feed one input signal with one cable to channel one....and it will output the identical signal to both outputs. For the EP4000 follow the back screen print on the amp itself; totally disregard the owners manual picture of instructions.

clip limiter on or off; I've mine on
filter off
low filter off
parallel mode on
bridge mode off (in your case)
second channel filter off
second channel low filter off
second channel limiter on or off; i'd put on
post #9887 of 10012
Just want to make sure I understand the part about getting the inputs in parallel with a y cable.

Speaker wire from binding post on DTS-10 >>> Channel 1 speaker wire output on Behringer.
Speaker wire from binding post on 2nd Dts-10 >>> Channel 2 speaker wire output on Behringer. (That way, both channels are being used.)

Then, to get the signal to the reciever (a Denon 4311):

2 XLR-to-RCA cables. Each XLR from the Input on the Behringer goes to a Y-splitter cable where the RCA ends go into the Y connector, thus turning it into 1 RCA connector that then goes into the Sub out on the Reciever.

Right? If this is right, then this is exactly how I'm using it right now to power my 2 CHT VS-18.1 subs.
post #9888 of 10012
Only need one cable from source to amp. The parallel mode "couples" the single input to channel one (your single cable in) and feeds channel two with it. No need for a second cable.

Man no offense but really need an eq device with these monsters. Mini dsp, or behringer fbq1000/bfd1124p

musiciansfriend 12%off for springsav
Edited by autox320 - 3/15/13 at 11:29pm
post #9889 of 10012
What do you mean by source to amp? You mean from the reciever to the amp?
post #9890 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jindrak View Post

What do you mean by source to amp? You mean from the reciever to the amp?

yes, receiver for now in your case; single RCA from receiver to XLR on CH1 input of the EP4000; but preferably you'll have eq in the chain between before pushing hard smile.gif

please look back a few pages where we discuss eq settings and devices; if still can't find what you need post and we'll help
post #9891 of 10012
I know about the EQ and I am choosing to ignore it for now. I will see/hear for myself what it sounds like in my room with just XT32. If I think it needs more, then I will buy an external EQ. Why would I only need 1 cable from CH1? That kind of seems like putting the amp in bridged mode instead of stereo. I would like to adjust the levels on both CH1 and CH2 independantly of each other, not together.
post #9892 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jindrak View Post

I know about the EQ, but I am choosing to ignore it for now. I want to hear for myself what it sounds like in my room with XT32. If I think it needs external EQ, I'll get one. Why would I need to use just CH1? That seems more like running it in bridge mode. I'd like to be able to adjust the levels of each sub on CH1 and CH2 independantly of each other.

Not sure if the gain dials function that way in parallel. If not you could wire two separate paths as you first planned. But honestly both cabs should not need different levels.

EQ is crucial for this sub. Ignoring or taking the easy way out is why some find it difficult to own these. Some get frustrated with output not being up to expectations or driver noise (not really bottoming because of soft bottoms) but "clanking" etc. I highly doubt the receiver will tame peaks that will end up limiting output.

I hear ya on ignoring at first, but eventually you'll have to come to the darkside with us biggrin.gif byoc; bring your own cookies

change your mind it's a good starting point
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1189404/danley-dts-10-super-spud-diy-kit/9570#post_22888666
post #9893 of 10012
Alright, I think I understand how it should work now. Thanks smile.gif
post #9894 of 10012
Mine are wired this way, and I tried it all. The gains work independent when in parallel, but there's no need to use them that way.

Ignoring EQ is simply not an option, but you'll discover that for yourself. There have been folks that form opinions and move onto other subs without ever eq'ing.
post #9895 of 10012
So by wiring it the way that autox has said, just using 1 cable for/from Channel 1, does that mean that I only need to use the CH1 gain knob to turn the subs up? Or will I also have to turn CH2 gain knob up if I want the 2nd sub to go up? I suppose ignoring EQ was the wrong way to put it. I'm not really ignoring it, I'm just not going to use an external EQ device right off the bat. I'd like to see what Audyssey does to it first.
post #9896 of 10012
There was past discussion on those gain knobs. Everyone was saying to turn down the 2nd channel all the way and only use the 1st channel gain. Mine don't work that way. Mine still work independent when in parallel mode. Or maybe my memory is fuzzy on that?

I wrestled with my pair for a solid year before employing outboard EQ (processor was using MultEQ). The very first minute that I used the 1124 with the basic (starting point) filters, I knew I had wasted all that effort over the past year. Maybe XT32 is superior to MultEQ with subs....I'm sure it is.
post #9897 of 10012
I have had the same experience as Tony. I am running in parallel mode and both gain knobs need to be turned up. And yes...output from processor to CH1 of amp...no input needed to CH2.

As long as the EP4000 is the same product it was two years ago, you need dip switches 3, 4, 5, and 8 to the right an all others to the left to run in this mode.

Hope this helps...
post #9898 of 10012
The gain knobs ch1 up, and ch2 all the way down is for bridge mode only. Mine are bridged one ep4k/cab. Ch2 is all the way down to keep from unwanted noise in the second channel. Bridge mode ties the two channels(two amps) together and controlled by just ch1 gain knob.

My setup and many others in this thread runs an bfd1124p.
I should have a fbq1000 April 8th to mess with but it looks exactly like a rebadged bfd1124p. Ultra narrow bandwidths; hookup; and settings make it pretty easy. Bought it to eq my Dad's custom in wall dual 12s setup if needed.
post #9899 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by autox320 View Post

\
I should have a fbq1000 April 8th to mess with but it looks exactly like a rebadged bfd1124p. Ultra narrow bandwidths; hookup; and settings make it pretty easy. Bought it to eq my Dad's custom in wall dual 12s setup if needed.

Yes - I have the FBQ1000 and it appears to work identically to the 1124P.
post #9900 of 10012
Whew, ok. So I'll finally be able to build and listen at the end of April. I've decided to get a miniDSP 2x4 for EQ. I'll also be buying a calibrated mic from Cross-Spectrum for using with REW to measure my room, and then use REW and miniDSP together for the autoEQ portion.

Since the miniDSP ships by default in Rev A, which is set to 0.9Vrms input level and Rev B is 2Vrms, am I ok with just leaving it at Rev A?
Edited by Jindrak - 4/3/13 at 9:55pm
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