or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - Page 333

post #9961 of 10012
I am making plans to demo the BC415. I need a better sub for music then I will have my LMSR DTS10S for movies
post #9962 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow View Post

I am making plans to demo the BC415. I need a better sub for music then I will have my LMSR DTS10S for movies

I would like to hear the BC415 as well, I looked into the other options there are from Void,Martin,JTR,Funktion 1 etc and the BC series seems to be the best choice, its supposed to really punch/slam.

After DTS10s I tried the multiple sealed/ported approach and was unimpressed with them so I think the BC might be the right choice. Let us know how it goes.
post #9963 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by MemX View Post

Are you able to release any more information on this project yet, Ivan? smile.gif
No-other projects have moved to the front of the line-for now anyway.
post #9964 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

No-other projects have moved to the front of the line-for now anyway.
Cool, thank you for the update! smile.gif
post #9965 of 10012
Ivan can you give me a link to the amp for the BC415? If there is no link to the amp can you tell me how many watts @ 4 or 8 Ohms does an amp need to be to get all the headroom out of this sub?
post #9966 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow View Post

Ivan can you give me a link to the amp for the BC415? If there is no link to the amp can you tell me how many watts @ 4 or 8 Ohms does an amp need to be to get all the headroom out of this sub?
The 12K amp is not just for the BC415-it just happens to be a good match. I don't think the spec sheet is finished yet.

The BC 415 is available in 2 different impedances (depending on what is most useful to a particular user)-and each one is switchable between different impedance loads.

The one with 4 ohm drivers will give 4x4ohm or 2x2ohm loads. If you choose the 8 ohm version- it is 4x8 ohm or 2x4 ohm loads.

The 4x loads are on an NL8 connector and the 2x loads are on a NL4 connector.

The drivers are 1700 watts continuous/3400 watts music and 6800 watts peak EACH. So multiple that by 4 and you have the cabinet total wattage.

For normal music, I would recommend an amp in the range of 2000-3000 watts for each driver-no matter the impedance.

The 12K amp will do 6000 watts into 2 ohms (2x 4ohm drivers).

The amp will only do this if powered off of 208-240Volts. It will run just fine off of 120V-but the output drops down to 3000 per channel-due to lack of power from the wall.

The amp has built in clip eliminators-so it doesn't clip when the maximum is reached-just reduces the peaks.
post #9967 of 10012
So How do we buy one of these?
post #9968 of 10012
The kit is no longer available. You can either buy the fully assembled and finished product from Danley or you can buy a used one if you can find one.
post #9969 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by stegen View Post

So How do we buy one of these?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

The kit is no longer available. You can either buy the fully assembled and finished product from Danley or you can buy a used one if you can find one.

Like mentioned fully finished or used. Browse the classifieds in AVS.

jpmst3 ; just post it man, might help sell easier and yours is a GREAT deal considering full price of a finished version.


check out jpmst3's DTS for sale here
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1493775/danley-sounds-labs-dts-10
post #9970 of 10012
Thanks for the plug!
post #9971 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Delicious2 View Post

Seal your Sub!

Mice got into my DTS10 and destroyed the drivers!




Whoa! I just saw this post. Damn, that is crazy.
I would have loved to have caught those little buggers in there and cranked it up to 11 and give them a little bass party they would not forget.mad.gif
post #9972 of 10012
Get a cat; when I had a cat, no rodent problems. Then my 5 year old son let the cat out. Haven't seen her since, but the rodents showed up. I killed them all & got new cats.

Have only seen 2 rodents since; both caught by the cats.
post #9973 of 10012
What about a Mechano??
post #9974 of 10012
What would be a great amp to run one of these with? I may be thinking in the wrong space but would a Emotiva xpr-1 work or is that to much, not enough, too much money, etc. I will get through the time of reading this mega thread but dont have the time .
post #9975 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by stegen View Post

What would be a great amp to run one of these with? I may be thinking in the wrong space but would a Emotiva xpr-1 work or is that to much, not enough, too much money, etc. I will get through the time of reading this mega thread but dont have the time .

The XPR1 is a good match power wise. There are plenty of alternates in pro amps though that cost much less. Example is the very favorable EP4000 Behringer gives an honest 2000wRMS@4ohms. Can be had usually $380 or less. Lot's of DIY use this amp. I myself have two EP4000's, each powering a DTS-10 cabinet.

As some will fill in or you can search in the DTS thread; plenty of info on EQ. You'll need eq in the signal chain for this sub especially due to cabinet design characteristics. A lot of options of adding EQ devices including but not limited to the Mini DSP, and Behringer FBQ1000 ( same as a BFD1124P)
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=248-6678

http://home.comcast.net/~thomasw-2/SubwooferSetupandEQpage6.html
http://bfdguide.ws/
post #9976 of 10012
Can someone please point me to the recommended out of the box eq settings for the dts-10?
post #9977 of 10012
I'm not sure there is any OOB EQ setting recommended - the room it's in plays such a large part that you're probably best to run REW and see what the response is like, then look at auto-EQ options (e.g. MiniDSP) or manual EQ options (e.g. Behringer DCX1124 or whatever it's called!)
post #9978 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcallister View Post

Can someone please point me to the recommended out of the box eq settings for the dts-10?

The base settings are in this thread somewhere. Unfortunately, I could not find them in the search so you may have to do a bit of perusal.
post #9979 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

The base settings are in this thread somewhere. Unfortunately, I could not find them in the search so you may have to do a bit of perusal.

I looked for them not find them either that's why I was asking. I'll keep looking.
post #9980 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcallister View Post

I looked for them not find them either that's why I was asking. I'll keep looking.

Ya, sorry. I am racking my brain trying to remember if I had them written down somewhere before I sold mine as well. Ugh! mad.gif
post #9981 of 10012
Post #9431
post #9982 of 10012
PEQ minus 8.4dB @ 55Hz, Q=8.9 BW=0.162 BFD=9.7

PEQ minus 4.6dB, @ 29Hz, Q=5 BW=0.2881 BFD=17.3

PEQ minus 7.5dB @ 84Hz, Q=2.8 BW=0.5125 BFD=30.8

PEQ minus 14.4dB @ 154Hz, Q=1.1 BW=1.2701 BFD=76.2


There you go! Kudos to Tom!
post #9983 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

PEQ minus 8.4dB @ 55Hz, Q=8.9 BW=0.162 BFD=9.7

PEQ minus 4.6dB, @ 29Hz, Q=5 BW=0.2881 BFD=17.3

PEQ minus 7.5dB @ 84Hz, Q=2.8 BW=0.5125 BFD=30.8

PEQ minus 14.4dB @ 154Hz, Q=1.1 BW=1.2701 BFD=76.2


There you go! Kudos to Tom!

Sweet thanks!,,
post #9984 of 10012
I will be joining the DTS-10 club very soon! I have 2 of the original kit speakers coming. smile.gif They will be used for my 3500cf HT when it is finished. What is the smallest amp I can use with them if I just want to hit reference levels with 3-6db of headroom?
post #9985 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

I will be joining the DTS-10 club very soon! I have 2 of the original kit speakers coming. smile.gif They will be used for my 3500cf HT when it is finished. What is the smallest amp I can use with them if I just want to hit reference levels with 3-6db of headroom?

Congratulations on your formidable acquisitions. ("TWO" DTS-10's, I'm so jealous)

I have just a single DTS-10 to fill an equal volume of space (3500 ft^3) but I can make reference level with just a couple hundred Watts using a Proton D1200 stereo amplifier. (I connected one driver per channel to keep the amp running cool)
Having 2 DTS-10's should automatically increase your output by 3 dB if your subs are spread apart, or 6 dB louder if the subs are co-located, using the same power levels per sub.

I think 200W/sub is the minimum, but Ricci tested the DTS-10 at Data-Bass and ideally recommends around 2000W of power be available.
Whatever amp you choose, you should think about using an equalizer to flatten out the response, and an infrasonic filter to protect the drivers from bottoming out with high-power, low-frequency content.
I ended up purchasing a miniDSP to serve both functions after I discovered I could bottom out my drivers even with my low power amp on certain demo material. A 12Hz, 24 dB/octave highpass filter took care of that problem.

Enjoy your new purchase, and welcome to the club.
Edited by stereo2.0 - 2/22/14 at 5:54pm
post #9986 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by stereo2.0 View Post

Congratulations on your formidable acquisitions. ("TWO" DTS-10's, I'm so jealous)

I have just a single DTS-10 to fill an equal volume of space (3500 ft^3) but I can make reference level with just a couple hundred Watts using a Proton D1200 stereo amplifier. (I connected one driver per channel to keep the amp running cool)
Having 2 DTS-10's should automatically increase your output by 3 dB if your subs are spread apart, or 6 dB louder if the subs are co-located, using the same power levels per sub.

I think 200W/sub is the minimum, but Ricci tested the DTS-10 at Data-Bass and ideally recommends around 2000W of power be available.
Whatever amp you choose, you should think about using an equalizer to flatten out the response, and an infrasonic filter to protect the drivers from bottoming out with high-power, low-frequency content.
I ended up purchasing a miniDSP to serve both functions after I discovered out I could bottom out my drivers even with my low power amp on certain demo material. A 12Hz, 24 dB/octave highpass filter took care of that problem.

Enjoy your new purchase, and welcome to the club.
Thanks for the info... I was thinking of the Behringer INUKE DSP amps or going with a MiniDSP and a regular stereo pro amp. For the EQ part which would be better?
post #9987 of 10012
I like the MiniDSP over the Inuke become there is more area (BW) to EQ compared to the Inuke. BUT either can be used and there are always work-a rounds for the limitations of the Imuke EQ.
post #9988 of 10012
I prefer the DCX-2496, but I also like the idea of standard width gear and a display to allow changes without a computer.

But, I certainly understand the appeal of the miniDSP and its feature set.
post #9989 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

I prefer the DCX-2496, but I also like the idea of standard width gear and a display to allow changes without a computer.

But, I certainly understand the appeal of the miniDSP and its feature set.
So would I use this for EQing all my speakers or just the sub? I have the Denon 4520 and I was told I would need the Behringer for the DTS-10s. If Iuse it as a pre EQ for the Denon then I would need 2 to do 11.2, correct?
post #9990 of 10012
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

I like the MiniDSP over the Inuke become there is more area (BW) to EQ compared to the Inuke. BUT either can be used and there are always work-a rounds for the limitations of the Imuke EQ.

So I guess I have the same question about the MiniDSP as the Behringer... DO I use it for EQing my whole setup or just the subs?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Speakers and Subs
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit