The Onkyo TX-NR3007/TX-NR5007 common questions/issues/hints/answers thread - Page 84

Originally Posted by mx_se

Hi, when you press 'TONE' to display receiver status T:037 means realtime temperature readings. When temperature increase to 50°C fan turn on - F:L. It goes off below 45°C -F:x.

Regards, Maksim

Originally Posted by ctviggen

I'm thinking of purchasing one of the 3007/5007. The differences appear to be that the 5007 has better DACs and a toroidal transformer. Are there any other differences? For a person who will use this primarily for 7 channels of movies/music, but who will run 2-channel music through a completely different circuit, is the extra cost of the 5007 worth it over the 3007? Thanks.

Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder

5007 has better room correction also. That was my reasoning for getting the 5007, I don't even use the internal amps.

Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder

I was thinking that the 3007 didn't have the XT version but it looks like you are correct they are the same. I ended up getting a refurb 5007 for the same price as a 3007

Audyssey MultEQ XT Dynamic EQ Dynamic Volume
(1) Audyssey MultEQ XT for System Equalization
Removes much of the distortion caused by speaker enclosures and the typical room environment; Produces far superior sound than on comparable products that lack correction capabilities.
(2) Audyssey Dynamic Volume
Maintains the desired listening level for all content, while optimizing the dynamic range.
(3) Audyssey Dynamic EQ for Loudness Correction

Originally Posted by Al Sherwood

These models are very similar, in fact they share the same owners manual, only needing to note differences in the small number of items that the 5007 has that the 3007 does not.

Originally Posted by kbarnes701

Any idea what the temperature display is when you press Display/Standby and then Setup (instead of Tone)? It displays a temperature with degress C after it but it's different to the temperature displayed when you press Tone.

Kind Regards,

Keith

Originally Posted by Al Sherwood

It is my understanding that the implementation of Audyssey (if this is what you are referring to) is identical for these two models... If this is not correct then please provide some details.

Otherwise the fundamental differences are essentially as ctviggen stated, these are subtle differences in # of HDMI inputs and USB ports but unless you need or want them hardly a deal breaker between the 3007 and the 5007. These models are very similar, in fact they share the same owners manual, only needing to note differences in the small number of items that the 5007 has that the 3007 does not.

The best way to note these differences is to go to the Onkyo website and use the 'compare' function to see how they differ.

Originally Posted by ctviggen

Thanks all for the info. That is what I did, I compared the two at the Onkyo website. I also am not going to use the internal amps. (Would buy the 5507, but it's also more expensive for what doesn't seem to be a great deal more features.)

One thing I still haven't been able to determine is what the video processing is like. For instance, I'll need a Bluray player. I want to buy an Oppo, but do I buy the more expensive one with better video processing, or the cheaper one and use the video processing in the 3007/5007? What about 480i or other inputs into the 3007/5007? Will those be processed?

Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder

They will process the 480 to 1080 yes. And from what I have been told do a good job it it. All my content runs from a HTPC wich convertes everything to 1080 for me. I did a little quick test last night running the HTPC at 720 (lowest setting it has) playing a DVD and letting the 5007 upconvert -vrs- just letting the HTPC do it. I couldn't tell any difference on a 145" screen. Now granted this was an old movie that was not great quality to start with (American Grafitti) so I should retry with a new DVD release. Point is I don't think it matter where you do it as long as it is a quality converter. For me it is way easier to let the HTPC do it because I would have to change the resolution of the HTPC based on what I am watching to let the 5007 do it.

I haven't tried it with my dish box. But I don't know how that would work either. You would have to change the output based on if you are watch SD or HD material, not very user friendly.

Originally Posted by ctviggen

I don't want to derail the thread, but I'd be interested in how you do the processing with your HTPC. My HTPC's output looks horrible.

Why do you have to change the output depending on SD or HD material. Won't it automatically detect that and upconvert to 720p (for me)?

Originally Posted by kbarnes701

Any idea what the temperature display is when you press Display/Standby and then Setup (instead of Tone)? It displays a temperature with degress C after it but it's different to the temperature displayed when you press Tone.

Kind Regards,

Keith

Originally Posted by LesE

I've wondered about this myself. If I were to hazzard a guess, I'd say that it may be the average operating temperature since the last time the display was reset. Just a guess though. Mine displays 95 deg F (35 deg C ) which sounds reasonable.

Originally Posted by mx_se

HI, it has something to do whith overall temperature in a period of time from starting up the receiver. 00:20 meaning running time. If you want to display correct temperature reading press return button below and repeat Display/Standby/Setup.

Regards Maksim

Originally Posted by ctviggen

I don't want to derail the thread, but I'd be interested in how you do the processing with your HTPC. My HTPC's output looks horrible.

Originally Posted by ctviggen

Why do you have to change the output depending on SD or HD material. Won't it automatically detect that and upconvert to 720p (for me)?

Originally Posted by kbarnes701

Not a bad guess Further developments: after having removed the bi-amping as described before, yesterday I watched The Dark Knight at pretty loud volume levels. The S: indicator started at :H and the temperature was T:43 when I first checked it. At the end of the movie T: was 53, but S: had gone back to :M. As the unit cooled down and T: drpped back below 50, S: changed back to :H. So I am totally confused now. This would imply that as the amp gets hotter, not only do the fans kick in, but also the power automatically goes into Medium mode. No indication of any of this of course as you watch/listen to the movie.

My old dad used to call the oil gauge and so in his car "worry gauges". Maybe these indicators on our amps fall into the same category

Also, why S for 'Power'? It's T for Temperature and F for Fan so surely it should be P for Power. Any thoughts?

Kind Regards,

Keith

Originally Posted by LesE

That's interesting. My 1007 has never reached 50 deg C so I haven't observed this. But, it does make sense that the amp power would get cut back in order to drop the operating temperature a few degrees. In my case, the difference between S:H and S:M is 5-6 deg C. I imagine that it would further drop to the lower power setting (S:L) if the temp continued to rise. I wonder if this is the sort of thing that was happening when reviewers attempted to run the all channels driven power output test.

Originally Posted by LesE

I tend to agree with your dad in that sometimes too much information just causes us to worry unnecessarily. I'm sure that Onkyo didn't provide these displays for individuals like myself who tend to obsess over such things.

Originally Posted by LesE

Over in the 1007 thread, I drew a comparison between the displayed parameters on the X007 and previous models such as the 905. On those earlier models, they indicate "SEC:" instead of "S:" . From this, I speculated that perhaps "S" or "SEC" may be an indication of the secondary power supply voltage being applied to the power amps.

Originally Posted by kbarnes701

I tend to listen at high levels, approaching reference a lot of the time and the amp is in a small, windowless boot room that is generally fairly warm, so I think I am going to see S:M mode quite often.

Originally Posted by LesE

The difference between high and medium power modes is probably no more than 2 dB or so which you may not notice in normal use with speakers of average to high efficiency. Still, it's nice to have that extra headroom available for momentary peaks when needed. Since you are operating in a fairly warm room, perhaps you should consider using a fan or two which may be enough to keep you below 50C and prevent the power reduction. I run with two 80mm fans and I top out at 45C in high power mode.

Les.

Originally Posted by Haemus

Just to share my experience with 5007/5500 combo. The latter is essentially 5007 amp blocks/transformers less processing circuitry, front display, remocon control. Combo was purchased with explicit intent of multi-amplification (and as a commoner response to provide fairly adequate substitution on a budget to otherwise excellent Bryston amplifiers recommended by speaker manufacturer to drive its stock).
Setup consists of 4 Ohm fronts (tri-amplified), 6 Ohm centre (tri-amplified), 8 Ohm surrounds (bi-amplified) PMC speakers. Global impedance set at 4 Ohm on both avr/amp as per manufacturer recommendation (no Audissey applied). Never monitored temperature display uninterruptedly, but the following observations were made: cold start readout is T:023 C, after sessions of about 15 hours (volume at -18.0dB, i.e. about 85dB SPL) it may reach T:043; F:x remains constant (supposedly fans never kicked in); S:M remains constant.
IIRC Sound&Vision mag testing 5007 stated power to drop to about 68W, with impedance switch at 4 Ohm. L/C/R tweeters are powered by 5007, mid and woofers by 5500. In that case L/C/R are getting about 180W each, but honest' wattage, with fairly adequate headroom, as compared to 145W rated power (likely single channel driven, or two).
It might be perceptual, but my feeling is tri-amping helps to open another bit of resolution, to the extent that I am now listening a lot of FLAC oldies in stereo (direct mode) deriving same satisfaction, as with the multi-ch DVD-A, SACD.
On a side note 5007 gets pretty much hotter at the top right back (near HDMI board), as compared with identically equipped (less processing circuitry) 5500, which is even having the harder task of driving mids/woofers. Evidently, additional circuitry is contributing its fair share to heat generation.

Originally Posted by Vaggeto

Active cooling almost always works best with air blowing directly at the hot object, unless the path of the air being pulled through is very directional, like through a heatsink.

Because of this, and the fact that the 5007 does not have a great "path" for fresh air to be pulled through the receiver and out the top, I would assume everyone should have their fans blowing down. It's pretty easy to do a temp test, but that would depend on where the temperature diode is.

What is everyone's experience with having fans either going in or out?

Also,

How are you powering these fans?

Thanks,
John

Originally Posted by Vaggeto

Active cooling almost always works best with air blowing directly at the hot object, unless the path of the air being pulled through is very directional, like through a heatsink.

Because of this, and the fact that the 5007 does not have a great "path" for fresh air to be pulled through the receiver and out the top, I would assume everyone should have their fans blowing down. It's pretty easy to do a temp test, but that would depend on where the temperature diode is.

What is everyone's experience with having fans either going in or out?

Also,

How are you powering these fans?

Thanks,
John

Originally Posted by Adamg (Ret-Navy)

Interesting conversation. I have a 5007 with two fans on top back left pulling air up through the unit. I have an XPA-5 that runs the the front 5 speakers (L, R, C, Wide-L & Wide-R) the 5007 only runs the surrounds. The unit has been on for 6 hours at -20db, the temp is 34-36 and F=x and S =L and V=000.

The unit is cool and under very light load, so why would the S = L ? I think perhaps it is on L (Low) and goes up to M (med) or H (high) when you drive the unit harder and more voltage is required to power the unit and top of the charge on the Capacitors. The opposite of what was previously suggested. Just my humble opinion.

Originally Posted by Adamg (Ret-Navy)

Yes the unit has vent louvers or air openings on the bottom. Pulling the air up and out the top of the unit is most efficient. Thus working with rather than against the laws of rising hot air currents and convection. Cold air is denser and collects near the floor, pulling in air from the bottom of the unit will pull in cooler air. The unit is designed to cool by means of convection, the fans will work with the natural air circulation already at play in the AVR.

I wanted to test my below suspicion. I ran the unit hard for a few hours. As the Temp went up, I started to see voltage numbers register, not much 15-18 was the most I noticed. But, after the unit reached about 43-45 degrees the unit switched from S=L to S=H. Then I turned the volume down and let the unit slowly cool. As the temp dropped back down to 35-38 degrees the S value changed back to L. Has anyone seen something different?

Originally Posted by Vaggeto

Can anyone point me to where this S=L talk started?

Originally Posted by Adamg (Ret-Navy)


I wanted to test my below suspicion. I ran the unit hard for a few hours. As the Temp went up, I started to see voltage numbers register, not much 15-18 was the most I noticed. But, after the unit reached about 43-45 degrees the unit switched from S=L to S=H. Then I turned the volume down and let the unit slowly cool. As the temp dropped back down to 35-38 degrees the S value changed back to L. Has anyone seen something different?